Engine rebuild

[barnett468]

I think perhaps the legend builder may have fitted the brass gear wrong not that the block was wrong perhaps.

one of the problems was that the gear was binding, meaning that it was being forced down onto the pad because there was not enough upwards movement in the distributor shaft which put more load on the gears when the cam turned, so i had him suspend the gear above the now gouged up pad by around .010" so it will never touch the pad, at least until the bearing in his chinese distributor wears 
.

I also had him lower the adjustable collar on the distributor a little so is had around .010" of upward movement.

my guess is that the pad on the block was not plunged quite deep enough but he couldn't measure the depth. of course it might be deep enough and his moron builder just didn't check the distributor gear/shaft play. the clown also ground a hole in the distributor so it would clear the intake if you remember that work of art. 

i had him get a stock size pertronix which just clears now and had him put the crane melonized gear on it and i bet that gear looks like new still...i hope, lol.

now, this being said, the dist gear pad on his block is still gouged up, so the question is, should he have it machined smooth and run a hardened shim under the gear to compensate for the amount they take off or leave it as it is?

[shaunp]

I think that is the correct answer of machine it smooth and the drop the gear, or use a shim either way would work.

[barnett468]

uh oh fitzy...looks like you have one more thing to add to your list of things to fix. 

[barnett468]

.
i sure hope you know a superb machinist. 

[barnett468]

I think that is the correct answer of machine it smooth and the drop the gear, or use a shim either way would work.

the pin in the gear won't fail because i had him use a hardened one and he might have even put 2 pins in and chevys run their gear suspended with no prob but their distributors are designed to have side thrust on the bearing surfaces. i just don't trust doing it this way on the pertronix but maybe pertronix uses the same system for the chevy distributors in which case it "should" be ok if he leaves it but i'm not certain.

one thing is for certain which is that he can't lower the gear any more but i don't think he woud have to based on the pattern he was getting when i had him check it.

 

[barnett468]

hey fitzy, clean the distributor gear and cam gear then post a very close up photo of both so we can check the war pattern.

[Reborn67]

Back with another quick question.., got a scat cast crank on order, and shortly a set of scat I beam rods,(347 stroker) there is 2 sets of Clevite Rod Bearings listed, std and H race series narrow? There is a big difference in cost but considering the work they do to me the price is not as important as getting the best/correct ones..., any thoughts out there?

[shaunp]

Back with another quick question.., got a scat cast crank on order, and shortly a set of scat I beam rods,(347 stroker) there is 2 sets of Clevite Rod Bearings listed, std and H race series narrow? There is a big difference in cost but considering the work they do to me the price is not as important as getting the best/correct ones..., any thoughts out there?

Most aftermarket cranks need H bearings. Typically the cranks have bigger radius from the web to the pin for add strength at higher rpm, this requires a chamfer on the edge of the bearing or a narrow bearing so they dont hit the fillet.   From memory the 9000 cast cranks can just use  P bearing,  The H bearing are stronger

[Reborn67]

Thanks for quick reply and clarifying,
It is so reassuring to talk to someone that knows their stuff.....,

[shaunp]

Thanks for quick reply and clarifying,
It is so reassuring to talk to someone that knows their stuff.....,

Also the big ends a often sold as pairs not a full set of 8 rods worth

[Reborn67]

Okay Guys , thoughts on intakes, so the story so far,
289 Block to be machined Minimally, .020" over and decked etc etc
New scat cast stroker crank 3.400
New Scat I beam rods
Pistons, still sourcing??
Heads AFR 185-58cc
New Voodoo 272 cam
Hyd roller lifts/rockers, still sourcing??
From the advise and what l have read, a 750 carb seems to be the go, and reading "Boofs signature combos" Quickfuel seems to be his carb of choice, sitting on an edelbrock performance airgap manifold with a 1" spacer plate,
Now, There is 750's and 750's, many to choose from, mech or vac secondaries,this is the limit of my knowledge, does the coupling with an auto dictate the secondaries, does an Ice ignition have any influence? Running the white flag up again,
Any thoughts?  Thanks....,

[Reborn67]

Also forgot to add, The eddy manifold (ED7521)  states "no provision for exhaust crossover"  does this even matter?

[barnett468]

Also forgot to add, The eddy manifold (ED7521)  states "no provision for exhaust crossover"  does this even matter?

a crossover is a port that runs from one side of the exhaust to the other under the carburetor to heat the fuel so the engine runs better if you live at....the north pole. 

i would not use a crossover . if you have one you can block it off with gaskets that come with a little plate to block it off with.

[shaunp]

Also forgot to add, The eddy manifold (ED7521)  states "no provision for exhaust crossover"  does this even matter?

Most after market heads wont have the port either.

[shaunp]

Okay Guys , thoughts on intakes, so the story so far,
289 Block to be machined Minimally, .020" over and decked etc etc
New scat cast stroker crank 3.400
New Scat I beam rods
Pistons, still sourcing??
Heads AFR 185-58cc
New Voodoo 272 cam
Hyd roller lifts/rockers, still sourcing??
From the advise and what l have read, a 750 carb seems to be the go, and reading "Boofs signature combos" Quickfuel seems to be his carb of choice, sitting on an edelbrock performance airgap manifold with a 1" spacer plate,
Now, There is 750's and 750's, many to choose from, mech or vac secondaries,this is the limit of my knowledge, does the coupling with an auto dictate the secondaries, does an Ice ignition have any influence? Running the white flag up again,
Any thoughts?  Thanks....,

Double pumper mech secondary with your cam choice will be fine with an auto and a small stall say 2500.  I'm not keen on the Ice ignition box with its pre programmed ignition curves. Look at Quick fuel, AED or HOLLY HP carbs. I really like AED's they just seem to work

[Reborn67]

Jumping onto the Holley site and using their "find a carby guide" a 347 @ 6200rpm is better suited (in their eyes) to a 650 carb,
am l going overboard thinking of a 750 , knowing that bigger is not always better,  and the Ice ignition was a recommendation by an
engine builder, and by no means my final decision, just another thought being thrown out there,

[barnett468]

what gears are you running?

whats wrong with morel or lunati morel lifters?

i hope your pistons don't have more than around a 10 cc dish.

I would use .035" thick cometic head gaskets with 4.020 or 4.030 bore.

imo, ice is overkill and overpriced for average street builds. you will not notice any difference using an ignition that costs 40% less, i guarantee it.

[shaunp]

I would buy the howards lifters well priced

[barnett468]

I would buy the howards lifters well priced

howards has a couple and one of them are the morels

[Reborn67]

Hey, Re; gears, haven't thought that far ahead just yet, the auto will be rebuilt, and the current diff is an 8" 2.79, Which will be rebuilt also if it is up to the task, or ratios changed if need be,
In regard to the pistons, will source them in ernest once l get the block to the machinist, and he can assess exactly what bore he will take it out to,
l dont know if l am not following the right procedures, but will also chase up lifters once i start putting it back together,
With the ignition, l'm open to any thoughts, as this is a subject that l know bugger all about,
As always thanks for reply....,

[shaunp]

Hey, Re; gears, haven't thought that far ahead just yet, the auto will be rebuilt, and the current diff is an 8" 2.79, Which will be rebuilt also if it is up to the task, or ratios changed if need be,
In regard to the pistons, will source them in ernest once l get the block to the machinist, and he can assess exactly what bore he will take it out to,
l dont know if l am not following the right procedures, but will also chase up lifters once i start putting it back together,
With the ignition, l'm open to any thoughts, as this is a subject that l know bugger all about,
As always thanks for reply....,

you need to go to a 3.25 rear in real terms to get it on the cam. 8" is fine , put a truetrac in it though

[barnett468]

i would go a little lower like 3.43 with that cam if you want really fast acceleration and won't be driving 110 kph for long periods of time. if you have an overdrive trans i would use 3.50's.

i would use 4032 material pistons . mahle's are an xlnt choice for a 347.


AUTO TRANS

You need to find a very good high perf trans builder otherwise if you built it with stock type parts it will soon turn into scrap metal if you beat on it. red alto plates are the most common high perf ones to use and you need a good shift kit etc.

 

[Reborn67]

Thats Another thread in its self l guess, Finding a very good auto trans guy in Newcastle, may have to venture down to Sydney, Have to ask Prycey if he knows anyone?

[shaunp]

i would go a little lower like 3.43 with that cam if you want really fast acceleration and won't be driving 110 kph for long periods of time. if you have an overdrive trans i would use 3.50's.

i would use 4032 material pistons . mahle's are an xlnt choice for a 347.


AUTO TRANS

You need to find a very good high perf trans builder otherwise if you built it with stock type parts it will soon turn into scrap metal if you beat on it. red alto plates are the most common high perf ones to use and you need a good shift kit etc.

Well I like 3.55 but I figure seeing as he is in Newcastle he is going to do some highway work

[barnett468]

Well I like 3.55 but I figure seeing as he is in Newcastle he is going to do some highway work

yeah i would use 3.55 also but only with an overdrive tranny in the us cuz we get to 75 mph on the freeway where i live and you have to take it to go anywhere.

the 3.25 with a 2000 + rpm stall will still certainly get him going decently, especially compared to the stock engine with 2.80 he is replacing it with.