Author Topic: 66 FB Fairstang project (Read 58144 times)

scott66stang · « **Reply #75 on:** July 02, 2009, 06:22:35 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by soc123_au
Scott you are doing some really nice work over there. If you ever move over to Gods Country (Sydney) I could probably find some work for you. Nice to see something a little different, I am a big fan of later running gear in early cars.

Thanks Steve! I really appreciate all the supporting comments from everyone on here , and to get one from someone with your standard of work really takes the cake. In my 42 years of life i have lived in the same area ,and only moved 3 times including from my parents home , so i dont like your chances of getting me over there LOL!

Shaunp , if i was keeping the car standard i also would go for incorporating the indicator reverse lights , and keeping the tail lights all red. But my fairlane wiring harness makes me want to do it different . I still wont know how i am going to have the lights till the whole car is painted and im putting it back together , i may even go all clear . Pretty much just playing around and making it up as i am going along atm, which is the plus when you do the work yourself . ill keep on trying things out untill i get the desired results. :(

shaunp · « **Reply #76 on:** July 03, 2009, 01:16:09 pm »

Cool Scott, my car will look stock from the outside except for stance and wheels ect. So I'm going to use the rev lights.

ChilliChadd · « **Reply #77 on:** July 12, 2009, 09:36:40 pm »

come on Scott stop holding out, you've got other pics.:+

scott66stang · « **Reply #78 on:** July 12, 2009, 09:53:48 pm »

They are coming , i have to write a story to go with them. :o I have to explain my madness. :+

non member · « **Reply #79 on:** July 12, 2009, 11:03:25 pm »

scott66stang

Just an idea as I think of it.

The last EFI engine I installed into a '68 F/B, I placed the battery, computer & relays in the passengers side torque box. Just took the floor side out of the torque box & made a false detachable floor.

http://s728.photobucket.com/albums/ww284/Downresto/68%20Paxton%20blown%20Mustang/?action=view&current=Picture001.jpg

While this is a LHD car, the same could be done to a RHD.

Fabricating the ducting is fun eh ! That is the sort of thing I enjoy.

I am impressed with your project thus far.

scott66stang · « **Reply #80 on:** July 12, 2009, 11:09:46 pm »

Yes i have seen your battery mod before and i liked it , but mine doesnt have torque boxes at the front being a 66 , and my battery is already wired into the boot . Although i am contemplating making up some torque boxes.

non member · « **Reply #81 on:** July 12, 2009, 11:34:55 pm »

Yes they help a lot. Cheap body stiffener also. I have put many in 65/6 & the picture you looked at is actually a 67 with the extra box installed.

You mentioned that you bought the engine forward. The convertible in my photobucket site has the 5.0 liter moved back 50mm. I did move the gearstick hole to suit the new position. As I had to get a tailshaft made anyway, it did not matter that much.

I am enjoying the photo's. You are coming up with some great solutions to the problems encountered.

scott66stang · « **Reply #82 on:** July 12, 2009, 11:58:07 pm »

Yeah moved it forward for a few reasons 1 : to try and clear under the export brace which it does by 5mm , 2: to bring gbox mounting closer which doesnt matter any more with my new bracket 3: the orig fairlane a/c on the motor can clear the shock twr 4: more room to move firewall forward if i have to so i can fit the fairlane full climate control heater box and maybe put a cover over the wiring on the firewall.
Now that i have trial fitted the RRS steering i now know i need to buy a reduction gear startermotor to be able to lower the engine down 5 - 10mm to give more clearance to the export brace and bonnet. The engine sits only about 5mm from the bonnet with that engine cover on . BTW the starter sits on the LHS and a bit lower than the old windsors with this motor /gbox combo.

non member · « **Reply #83 on:** July 13, 2009, 12:05:04 am »

BTW; did you know that the plenum (intake) is reversible? That came in handy for one of the cars I did, as it allowed the supercharger plumbing to be more easily fabricated.

These are great engines, good horsepower & good mileage.

scott66stang · « **Reply #84 on:** July 13, 2009, 12:28:34 am »

I thought so , but werent 100% sure. Then i proberbly would of put the filter box in the battery tray area instead. But i decided i was happy to leave it as is , i could of put in a smaller radiator aswell to give more room however i wanted to keep costs down and the donor Fairlane was well maintained with a new radiator , water pump , reco gbox , on gas and a great comfortable 2nd car , just ugly as sin and no matter what i could do , it always would be. It was always going to be a donor car when i bought it off a mate , shame the body and interior is in good nick.

non member · « **Reply #85 on:** July 13, 2009, 08:01:14 am »

Then another mod you could consider, seeing you wanted the battery space, is to get another side panel (inner guard skirt) that has a battery area in it & weld it in the LH side. This could probably come from the donor car's engine bay.

Your welding skills allow you to make all the mods you want, as you appear to have done very well with the body work. As long as it does not exceed the dimensions of the RH side, so it will not interfere whith the front tyres.

Cars I built have had both sides of the front aprons mirrored on occasions. One had "twin battery" areas (one side for intake), another had no battery area with the LH side panel reversed & welded in the RH side.

Must dig out more old pics & scan them.

non member · « **Reply #86 on:** July 13, 2009, 11:05:30 am »

Looking at what you have there in the pic above, I would see if I could fit a plastic (heaven forbid !) inner guard under there to protect the housing from stones etc.

I fitted A/C condensers under the front guards of hot rods (mid to late 40's cars) & so had to protect them from the rubbish that was thrown by the tyres.

non member · « **Reply #87 on:** July 13, 2009, 11:09:23 am »

In both the blown cars on the photobucket site, I had built boxes that took the rectangular filters in them (but I used smaller K&N types). This allowed me to make the box whatever size I wanted & could be serviced easily as I designed a "drawer" type install of the filter. It just pulled out the top after taking off the retaining plate.

scott66stang · « **Reply #88 on:** July 13, 2009, 01:17:14 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by ozbilt
Looking at what you have there in the pic above, I would see if I could fit a plastic (heaven forbid !) inner guard under there to protect the housing from stones etc.

I fitted A/C condensers under the front guards of hot rods (mid to late 40's cars) & so had to protect them from the rubbish that was thrown by the tyres.

That was the old filter set up i tried but not using i was talking about above , and yes i was going to put a plastic inner guard cover from the fairlane on.

non member · « **Reply #89 on:** July 13, 2009, 07:44:30 pm »

No worries.

Thats what is nice about this forum. Gives us all a chance to build cars across the country!!

Keep the pics & info coming.

Now if only I can get back to my latest project........

67TTCoupe · « **Reply #90 on:** July 14, 2009, 11:30:06 am »

nice work. looks like a busy engine bay. is 67 bay bigger than the 66?

hope it is cause i need lot more plumbing for mine.

this weekend ill be bringing mine over finaly. than i can finaly do some proper planing.

keep the pics posted.

non member · « **Reply #91 on:** July 14, 2009, 11:54:06 am »

Basically the same size engine bay.

Towers are different, more room between them in a 67 onwards.

I have grafted 69 towers & front skirt panels into a '65, have also seen fox body front ends (inner sheet metal & suspension) in early cars.

Have a friend in the US that drops 50's Ford sedans onto late model Crown Victoria chassis, floorpan, dash combo's. He buys wrecked Highway Patrol cars for the donors.

Something to think about for your next project, scott66stang. Maybe an early Mustang (rusty floor one, over a late model Falcon floor pan & running gear.....)

Hmmmm, maybe something we could "team" up on. :w

scott66stang · « **Reply #92 on:** July 14, 2009, 02:04:43 pm »

I thought the 67s were also longer in the engine bay.

I asked Ken , the bloke i got my stang from , to keep me updated with 50s cars over there , got pics of a 57 ford panelvan and a crown available to me . Just need to sell of some old holden projects that got put aside in favor of the fords esp the stang.

non member · « **Reply #93 on:** July 15, 2009, 08:57:06 am »

Quote

Originally posted by scott66stang
I thought the 67s were also longer in the engine bay.

I asked Ken , the bloke i got my stang from , to keep me updated with 50s cars over there , got pics of a 57 ford panelvan and a crown available to me . Just need to sell of some old holden projects that got put aside in favor of the fords esp the stang.

They are extremely similar as they have the almost same underbody dimensions. The differences in dimensions are the caster bar mounts (different angles for the 65-6 cars & 67-70) & shock towers (once again 65-6 as opposed to 67-70). Radiator support comes off the same front tie rail, firewall is in the same spot. Battery area is different with the 67 on cars as the battery is 90 degrees different to the 65-6.

Rail dimensions, front & rear are the same, Measuring points may vary because of diff steering box mounts etc. All early Mustangs fit the same jigs in my shop (I have 2). My jigs pick up the factory body mounting holes.

Good to see you have similar thinking regarding your next project, I may have to visit......... :w

67TTCoupe · « **Reply #94 on:** July 15, 2009, 10:20:40 am »

ive seen in UK a guy used the floor plan of mid 90s car 180sx and welded the body of a early morris minor. was thinking doing this to my very rusty 240z. but lookslike lot of work.
impressive work nevertheless.

scott ill be going similar path as you with later model engine upgrade. mine will get few more complicated things inside. looking at yours im getting bit worried it may not all fit.

for rego purpose ill be using carby 302 that came with the car. that way i can still drive it while im preparing the new motor for it. than just swicharoo.

i guess once i get the car over and old carby 302 installed i prob get a better idea.

ive seen you using a late model fans are you using the alloy radiator as well?

Is there any room from the edge of the radiator to the skirting? (is the radiator covering the whole rad support or there is more room?)

cheers

scott66stang · « **Reply #95 on:** July 15, 2009, 10:55:51 am »

67TTcoupe, the radiator is the Fairlane/EBfalcon original one. It is 850mm overall not including the top mounts which are are little wider. The radiator sits about 10mm each side on the rails where i have welded the seating mounts with the rubbers from the fairlane and there is about 1" each side to the apron which then tapers out. Cant remember the how much i cut from the support , but it was up to the first bend , guessing 2" each side , the radiator sits in far enough to mount the fairlane a/c evap between the radiator and support. The thermo fans are EL ones which are made for that radiator and there is enough room to use the EB viscous fan however the bottom of the fan sits lower than the radiator , one of my earlier engine bay pics shows the cut down eb fan shrowd on with the fan underneath .

shaunp · « **Reply #96 on:** July 15, 2009, 03:12:29 pm »

Did you sort out the slop in the rack?

scott66stang · « **Reply #97 on:** July 15, 2009, 03:36:39 pm »

Got on to them first thing monday 21/2 weeks ago , they said they will look after me , but had to wait 1 week for the bloke to come off holidays so they could seek advice from RRS to see what the prob could be. They called me this morning and said RRS advised that it would be an internal adjustment that is used as the rack wears that wasnt set properly and they are sending instructions. I said i dont mind doing it as long as i have a document stating i can without voiding warranty. Otherwise i will have to wait at least 2 weeks each way courier time. They said it wasnt the first time it has happened ???? So will keep you updated.

shaunp · « **Reply #98 on:** July 15, 2009, 03:47:34 pm »

I think the rack is Deawoo (ex holden Camira). Not sure if they are shim adjust or the use a screw type adjust ment on the pad the rack sitts on. They seem a bit flaky these RRS guys for some reason. Most power racks take the lash out with a rubing pad on the rack and a spring loading to stop them rattling.

67TTCoupe · « **Reply #99 on:** July 16, 2009, 04:39:28 pm »

that is impressive.

now who's got a rusty 65 66 fastback shell cheap ? ;2

66 FB Fairstang project

News:

Author Topic: 66 FB Fairstang project (Read 58144 times)