Author Topic: 65 Coupe Restomod build (Read 107864 times)

Husky350 · « **Reply #75 on:** October 11, 2016, 06:12:13 pm »

One issue I have at the moment is that the AU radiator has no cap provision as it ran an expansion tank. Problem being I have no where to put one that will be higher than the radiator, as it sits too high.
So just test fit an inline cap to see where it sat in the stock hose.
It is just lower than the radiator still, however if I use one of those yellow bleeder kits and bleed it properly I don't think it will be a problem.
Thoughts???

Husky350 · « **Reply #76 on:** October 11, 2016, 06:16:28 pm »

So as I am utlizing the vent from the fuel pump assembly for the tank, which will go into a separator tank then a filter, I wanted to removed the vented cap on the rear.
I heard 70 gas caps fit the 65, so about a year ago I purchased a pop open 70 gas cap, which will allow me to use a non vented sealed cap.
Doesn't look too bad, what do you think?

Husky350 · « **Reply #77 on:** October 11, 2016, 06:17:35 pm »

Anyway I'm pretty excited and will probably sleep in the garage tonight

Dwayne · « **Reply #78 on:** October 11, 2016, 07:32:05 pm »

C'mon, the real reason you're excited sleeping in the garage is so you get a full nights sleep. All parents of newborns have thought about it.

Husky350 · « **Reply #79 on:** October 11, 2016, 09:59:03 pm »

thankfully time has gone quick and she turns 1 in a few days....and sleeps through the night every night

noblg · « **Reply #80 on:** October 12, 2016, 01:42:17 pm »

the build is coming along well. I like the idea of the T piece and the cap for the radiator, ill have to do the same I'm guessing. where did you get the T piece from?
The BA seats look good also, how do you go with height, I have mocked AU seats and they are too high, however they do appear to be constructed different, as the runners form part of the frame, unlike yours.

Husky350 · « **Reply #81 on:** October 12, 2016, 09:14:10 pm »

Hey mate, it's called an inline radiator filler and you can get them from ebay or summit etc.
In saying that I think I came up with a way to keep the standard expansion tank by cutting it in half(I have the alloy version) and mounting it above the alternator. We will see how we go

chopmgw · « **Reply #82 on:** October 12, 2016, 09:22:48 pm »

Quote from: noblg on October 12, 2016, 01:42:17 pm

I like the idea of the T piece and the cap for the radiator, ill have to do the same I'm guessing. where did you get the T piece from?

http://www.tefba.com/

Husky350 · « **Reply #83 on:** October 12, 2016, 09:40:13 pm »

^^That's a filter not a filler. The late model radiators don't have fillers/caps on them, so if you get an inline filler you need it to have provision for a radiator pressure cap and vent tube.

noblg · « **Reply #84 on:** October 12, 2016, 09:42:04 pm »

Cool, more ebaying to do. Thanks husky.

Husky350 · « **Reply #85 on:** October 14, 2016, 05:19:05 pm »

Got the final parts of my handling kit, and hopefully the last parts I order from the states.
-Baer tracker rods
-Camber kit
-fox body fuel rail with -6 fittings(needed this as the intake manifold fouled on the FPR on the aussie fuel rail)
-PTP boss style crossmember with jackpad

Husky350 · « **Reply #86 on:** October 14, 2016, 05:21:19 pm »

So in my quest to retain the later model expansion tank, I cut the alloy version I had in half, and test mounted it above and to the side of the alternator. Clears the bonnet JUST! So now to get someone to weld it up and weld an L bracket on the bottom. As you can see from the side pic it is just higher than barb fitting on the top right of the radiator.

Husky350 · « **Reply #87 on:** October 14, 2016, 05:24:10 pm »

Fit the washer bag and washer jets. Thank god for the bag system, as I have not much space left in the engine bay with all the power steering and AC hoses.
Fitted up the washer motor that New Port Engineering sent me with their intermittent wiper motor kit. Just tidy the lines and that's that done.

Husky350 · « **Reply #88 on:** October 14, 2016, 05:27:36 pm »

Layed down the rest of the sound deadener. A vinyl/closed cell foam composite will be going on top of that later on.
Put 4 squares on the roof, then put the boom mat lite insulation on top of it. Next week I'll install the mustangs to fear one piece headliner.
Sprayed the dash and doors. I wasn't happy with how it turned out. I'm gonna sand it back, then try a vinyl wrap, as that is what I was going to do originally. I'm going to try the 3M brushed black on the door first, see how it turns out, and if i like it do the doors, dash, and rear quarter panels.

noblg · « **Reply #89 on:** October 14, 2016, 07:31:38 pm »

looking good.

Husky350 · « **Reply #90 on:** October 17, 2016, 06:31:03 pm »

Had a busy weekend with the bubs 1st birthday, however had some time this evening and thought I might tackle the one piece headliner. Told the mrs I'd be in the garage for an hour, 3 and half hours later and I'm pretty much done. Pretty hard doing it with one person, however easier than doing the traditional headliner I guess. Locating the holes for the sunvisor brackets and seat belts was quite challenging, however worked out in the end. My thumbs are pretty sure from pressing on the new windlace, took a bit more effort with the abs plastic being a bit thicker than normal headliner material.
I mounted the led dome light directly to the headliner, as trying to find those holes would have done my head in, plus it's quite light. This allowed me to move it forward a bit also.

shaunp · « **Reply #91 on:** October 17, 2016, 06:48:07 pm »

Spray the doors/dash with normal base, but put hardener in it, normally the base doesnt get hardener, if you want you can Matte 2k clear it, but no need really and will give a satin black finish thats nice and strong. its also thin so maintains the grain in the door metal.

Husky350 · « **Reply #92 on:** October 21, 2016, 04:31:57 pm »

Thanks Shaun, however I was gonna try and use cans as I don't have a spray gun. I used rust guard epoxy enamel on my steering column and it turned out great, but the same spray turned out shit on the dash, fish eyes everywhere. I think the prep was not adequate, i only sanded the previous paint back then cleaned it with thinners. I'm gonna strip the dash and doors back to bare metal and try again.

Dwayne · « **Reply #93 on:** October 21, 2016, 04:40:41 pm »

fish eyes are usually caused by silicone on the panel.

Need to go over it a couple of times with wax & grease remover before painting.

Husky350 · « **Reply #94 on:** October 21, 2016, 04:42:13 pm »

Got the hand brake sorted today finally. I am using an R33 GTR handbrake and brake cables. I had the cable on the actual hand brake assembly shortened by about 4 inches. The stock gtr hand brake cables were fine for length, I just had the end fitting changed to suit the 05 mustang rear calipers.
On the hand brake itself, I cut down some seat belt mounting plates I had and used them underneath the tunnel, not only to strengthen the area as there is a bit of force with this hand brake, but once riveted in I can remove the handbrake from the inside without having to stuff around getting under the car.
The cables were bolted on to a couple areas on the floor pan, then routed to the outside U bolt, where the end of the housing is secured to the u bolt via a clamp at this stage, however I will get a nut welded to it so I can bolt the housing straight to the nut on the u bolt.

Husky350 · « **Reply #95 on:** October 21, 2016, 04:43:05 pm »

Husky350 · « **Reply #96 on:** October 21, 2016, 04:44:32 pm »

Also got the front brake lines made in stainless steel by Pirtek. Pressure tested to 3000psi, and not badly priced at $190.

Husky350 · « **Reply #97 on:** October 21, 2016, 04:45:54 pm »

Quote from: Dwayne on October 21, 2016, 04:40:41 pm

fish eyes are usually caused by silicone on the panel.

Need to go over it a couple of times with wax & grease remover before painting.

Yeah I've read that since. I'm gonna take it back to metal with paint stripper and start again.

shaunp · « **Reply #98 on:** October 21, 2016, 10:23:56 pm »

I normally use white spirits these day rather then wax and grease remover.

Husky350 · « **Reply #99 on:** October 22, 2016, 03:55:29 pm »

Well what a c of a job...had a tin of diggers paint stripper, so went to work stripping the dash, doors and quarters. The paint stripper demolished the paint I had just applied last week, so after a while i scraped off the black I had applied. The paint stripper had no effect on the original white paint though, so after scraping the black off I put another coat of paint stripper on. It budged the original paint a teeny little bit in places, but not much. I don't know much about paint stripper, but either the diggers one is pretty average, or the original paint was just not wanting to play the game.
So I got a couple wire wheel attachments on the drill, and to my surprise only 5 hours later I've finished up.
Tomorrow I'm going to wipe over the metal with soapy water to neutralize any left over stripper, and also wipe down the interior to get rid of any left over dust that the dyson didn't pick up.
After that I'll clean the surfaces with wax/oil cleaner or white spirits, then paint.

2 questions for you.
1. I've heard of people sanding the metal after paint stripping. Is this just for paint adhesion?
2. Should I use primer? The rust guard epoxy says no primer needed, and I have painted my steering column and diff with no primer and both turned out fine, so I'm leaning toward no primer.

65 Coupe Restomod build

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Author Topic: 65 Coupe Restomod build (Read 107864 times)