Author Topic: My First 67 Coupe build. (Read 64849 times)

CraigF · « **Reply #75 on:** March 04, 2015, 10:04:44 pm »

Floor in place and completely welded along the rails and onto the Torque boxes.

CraigF · « **Reply #76 on:** March 12, 2015, 09:20:01 pm »

Colour decided on. Its the new style kandy red.
It really shines in sunlight and takes on a darker almost cherry in shadow or dusk.
Have painted the inside of the cowl before I weld it shut.

sea67n · « **Reply #77 on:** March 12, 2015, 09:52:04 pm »

Quote from: CraigF on March 12, 2015, 09:20:01 pm

Colour decided on. Its the new style kandy red.
It really shines in sunlight and takes on a darker almost cherry in shadow or dusk.
Have painted the inside of the cowl before I weld it shut.

im drooling

cant wait to see the whole car painted in that!

Stimo · « **Reply #78 on:** March 13, 2015, 10:10:30 am »

Very nice

MACH_ONE · « **Reply #79 on:** March 14, 2015, 10:01:03 pm »

striking colour

unilec5544 · « **Reply #80 on:** March 15, 2015, 09:17:37 pm »

You say its a new style kandy red. What brand is it? Does look good.

CraigF · « **Reply #81 on:** March 16, 2015, 01:46:15 pm »

Quote from: unilec5544 on March 15, 2015, 09:17:37 pm

You say its a new style kandy red. What brand is it? Does look good.

The colour is a paint being used by Mazda, Mercedes and a few others. Its a cheap way of manufacturers getting a Kandy paint effect without the cost of real kandy paint.
The paint used is from the panel shop i am a manager and is a water born paint by Axalta in Australia or Dupont in the rest of the world.

smackdownz · « **Reply #82 on:** March 16, 2015, 03:10:40 pm »

love the colour mate, builds coming along nicely. any idea if they need to put a silver basecoat under the paint first or is it just a metallic?

CraigF · « **Reply #83 on:** March 16, 2015, 08:52:51 pm »

Quote from: smackdownz on March 16, 2015, 03:10:40 pm

love the colour mate, builds coming along nicely. any idea if they need to put a silver basecoat under the paint first or is it just a metallic?

I don't think the base is a silver but the primer is shade specific. I not sure but it's the way the mainstream manufacturers have a sort of kandy effect at a low mass produced price.

I'll ask the painters at work tomorrow.
The colour seems to give a deep glow effect in sunlight. We did a few test cards using a deeper red also but still came back to the Mazda colour. The Mercedes is a deeper red used on the 2015 SLK and C class.
Wasn't sure with test cards so I took the plunge and painted the lower cowl. I'm really please and have settled on this colour even though its going to be a while before the rest of the car is painted.

Thanks
Craig.

CraigF · « **Reply #84 on:** March 16, 2015, 09:19:01 pm »

Hi all.
Well this weekend we tackled changing the door pillar hinge panels after much pondering if to do so or not. The pillars looked ok from the outside and fairly clean but once we removed the cowl and dash we could get a closer inspection and saw that the plate were starting to crumble underneath. I didn't want to be fixing these up in a few years and having to take the cowls off again when the new panels were only $220.00 the pair.

The idea was to unpick the outer "A" pillar and remove it carefully to replace then after the hinge pillar was replaced.
Easier said than done. The piece we unpicked had become so thin that it will need a little TLC and fabrication before going back on. I am also led to believe this part is not available. Which is strange as they make the panel underneath !!!

shaunp · « **Reply #85 on:** March 16, 2015, 09:24:09 pm »

It will have both pearl and zeralic powder in it I'd say, you tint the primer to suit as the base is quite transparent that's the only rason. It wont be Kandy like House of color which, is not that easy to get even, that's when you spray a silver or gold or somewhere in between base, and then basically tinted clear, then clear. That's true Kandy. If you don't get the tinted clear even the colour will change.

CraigF · « **Reply #86 on:** March 16, 2015, 09:25:45 pm »

Now all that's left to do if fix up and fabricate the outer pieces. The parts that are critical are all good. Down the "A" piller and across to the edge of the cowl but the parts down the side of the hinge leave a little to be desired.
This weekend the car became a few other titles other than a Mustang.

CraigF · « **Reply #87 on:** March 16, 2015, 09:31:05 pm »

Quote from: shaunp on March 16, 2015, 09:24:09 pm

It will have both pearl and zeralic powder in it I'd say, you tint the primer to suit as the base is quite transparent that's the only rason. It wont be Kandy like House of color which, is not that easy to get even, that's when you spray a silver or gold or somewhere in between base, and then basically tinted clear, then clear. That's true Kandy. If you don't get the tinted clear even the colour will change.

I think so but I must admit I am no painter. I just saw the boys painting a new CX5 at work and they were cussing the colour as it was a real bitch to get even. They all said it looks fantastic when on but they were blending a lot of other panels to get the even colour. They said if they were painting a whole car it was a simple process as the paint goes on evenly but painting accident repairs the colour was a pain to match.
I just thought it looked nice!.
Craig

shaunp · « **Reply #88 on:** March 17, 2015, 06:19:28 pm »

A lot of new cars are water based base now, the pearls etc float to the top, solvent base doesn't do the same, so they wont look the same, solvent base has flip controllers which just makes the particles flip the correct way assuming its good quality stuff, thats why cheaper paints can look mottly.

CraigF · « **Reply #89 on:** March 17, 2015, 08:54:04 pm »

Quote from: shaunp on March 17, 2015, 06:19:28 pm

A lot of new cars are water based base now, the pearls etc float to the top, solvent base doesn't do the same, so they wont look the same, solvent base has flip controllers which just makes the particles flip the correct way assuming its good quality stuff, thats why cheaper paints can look mottly.

You sound like you know a bit about paints Shaun.
I spoke to our painters today and they said it is a form of a three layer pearl and that's what gives it the glow effect.

CraigF · « **Reply #90 on:** April 03, 2015, 01:06:32 pm »

Any body have a home for a 302 windsor complete with C4 tranny. Came out of my 67 Coupe and was running when I removed it. $1200.00

Macbain · « **Reply #91 on:** April 06, 2015, 07:28:02 pm »

Planning a crate engine install? This could get even more interesting...

This build is inspiring, thanks for the detailed posts.

CraigF · « **Reply #92 on:** May 02, 2015, 04:58:56 pm »

Hi all.
Throwing a question out there for some advice.
I need to buy some new guards and Sydney mustangs have two types listed. One original equipment ford at $798.00 or a a reproduction one at $303. Huge price difference but is it worth it.
Help please.

CraigF · « **Reply #93 on:** May 03, 2015, 07:27:37 pm »

It's been a little while since I have updated on the progress of Buster so here we go.
The 'A' pillars are repaired and reattached to their rightful place on the car.
Today we have tacked on the front aprons and apron brackets which enabled us to attach the hinges to test bonnet alignment with the guards.
Pictures to follow.

CraigF · « **Reply #94 on:** May 03, 2015, 07:38:51 pm »

'A" pillar repairs and in place. A little cleaning up to do.

Juanball mustang · « **Reply #95 on:** May 03, 2015, 07:54:53 pm »

From the factory they never seemed to get the guards to sit flush with the cowl panel. Have seen some with 10 mm height difference and others almost flush .
I suppose the doors and guards where fitted after the engine bay area was built. From your photos you might be able to work the other way, get door gap sorted , fit guard and align with the door, then guard to cowl . Just a thought given its in pieces .

CraigF · « **Reply #96 on:** May 03, 2015, 08:01:53 pm »

Once we were happy with the 'A' Pillars and door hinge pillars it was time to tack the lower and upper cowls into place and weld on the radiator support.
The picture shows the 'a' pillar screwed into place to get the correct dimensions before welding

CraigF · « **Reply #97 on:** May 03, 2015, 08:05:50 pm »

We won't be welding anything permanently until it is all mocked up and in position but I noticed the alignment was not the best before I stripped it down.
I put that down to it being an old car that has had a bit of abuse over the years. I aim to get the gaps better than original if we can.

CraigF · « **Reply #98 on:** May 03, 2015, 08:10:33 pm »

Lower and upper cowl panel tacked into place

CraigF · « **Reply #99 on:** May 03, 2015, 08:12:17 pm »

RHD Dashboard clamped into position just to see what it looked like.

My First 67 Coupe build.

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Author Topic: My First 67 Coupe build. (Read 64849 times)