the best 302 performance options

[Grimbo]

I have a stock 302 with 2 barrel holley in a 70 sportsroof and want some xtra performance.
What are the things to do that will give me the biggest additional power in order of cost to performance ratio. I don't want to take the motor out, not yet at least.
I've been told that this order -
(1) inlet manifold
(2) 4 barrel holley
(3) distributor and coil
(4) extractors
(5) cam
does this sound right  ???? anything else ?????  

[JimNiki]

diff gears?...
cold air intake?

xtra performance for what?  is it manual or auto?
dizzy/coil won't give you a huge bang 4 buck ratio.

heads are good bang but not for bang 4 buck.
the newer factory engines can be pushed a bit harder (simply because they're not optimised for performance from the factory, they are detuned for reliability). I'm not sure the same can be said of these old tech older engines.

maybe pushing them too much may actually hurt them...
an engine is only as good as the weakest link.

[benzo]

I'll be watching this thread with interest, as I have the exact same setup as you at the moment and am currently weighing up my options. My engine already has an upgraded distributor and coil, but I'm sussing out an intake manifold (leaning towards Edelbrock performer), 4 barrel carb to suit and some shorty extractors.

[Frank70]

2 more 70s on the board .. nice  !

Welcome !

Basically your engine is an air pump - anything that lets it push more air thru more efficiently will increase performance.

So yes ... carby, intake, heads , extractors , exhaust , cam etc.   ... all the usual things.

Do it a bit at a time if budget is limited , but plan to put in parts that work together.

Diff gears are great too, but have their downside as you will be working the engine more.

Previous owner put 4.11s in mine and its great around town , but a pain on the highway/freeway.

Cheers,
Frank.

[j.l.c]

FIXED!!! also depends if you doing them in isolation!! or doing a combo. some things respond really well together but not so good when done alone

(1) aluminium heads
(2) inlet manifold
(3) cam
(4) extractors
(5) 4 barrel holley
 

[IGALOP]

A 4 barrel carby/manifold+
Mild Cam+
Extractors,
will allow a few more neddies to be freed up from your otherwise std 302.
More money spent usually = more power.
Where do you want to stop?:(

[boofhead]

Here is my order (assuming a mild).
1) Headers and Exhaust (with balance Tube/X pipe).
    Reason: The standard W heads are rubbish - very poor flow especially the exhaust. A decent headers (long tube is better) and twin 2 1/2" system is the first step to improved performance.  Also, it will sound so much sweeter.

2)  Intake 4 barrel (Not a standard Edelbrock performer as its no better than the std cast manifold - get RPM or better still the AIR GAP (or stealth). 600 Vac Holley (or there abouts).
    Reason:  As pointed out previously you have a big air pump more air/fuel in the more power

After a little more - then.

3) Mild CAM.  Lots of choices here - just do not go to far as you will start to get into the necessity of more extras to suite the CAM. I would select one from the Comp CAM range. I can provide examples if you wish. I would purchase a kit with the lifters, timing chain and springs included.
    Reason: CAM timing sets the events for intake and exhaust - it also allows the profile to be split so you can have a longer exhaust event to help the poor heads get the hot gasses out.

For a strong street engine then you step up.

4) Good set of Alloy heads. I would suggest a set of Twisted Wedge 170s Fast-as-cast.  Still use the items from 1 and 2 where 3 will be replaced with a different grind.
    Reason: Heads are the key to make power - there are a number of good manufactures out there so lots of choices. My preference is the TWs.  Do not bother with porting the old heads - just not worth the time and cost as they simply will not be a good as a set of decent alloys.  

5) Strong street CAM. I would lean toward a hydraulic roller. Make sure the springs in the head are suitable for the profile selected. You will need linked bar lifters as well as roller rockers and pushrods (which will need to be measured first then ordered). Make sure you get a double roller timing chain as well. Again Comp CAMS is my preferred choice.

6) Upgraded ignition. Coil and ignition box. You do not want to use points so a full replacement dizzy or an electronic trigger (Pentrox II). If you want to go the next level then a MSD 6A multi-spark box is the go. Lastly, depending on the CAM you should consider changing the springs in the mechanical advance for full advance in the dizzy to come in earlier.

Really want more...

7) Get a 347 stroker kit. The bigger the engine the bigger the bang and easier to make power. If your doing a full rebuild anyway it worth going down this road. Get a good kit and purchase after you have the block apart so you will know the correct bore size for the piston selection.

There are also a number of other secondary bits as well.  A full rebuild in any stage your getting them any way.

Hope this helps.




 

[Dyn4mic]

I recently was searching for ideas for my 302 which is stripped and just waiting for me to throw money at it, anyway its an interesting read

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0307_ford_302_v8_engine_buildup/index.html

[GOLDSCODE]

Anyone who can come up with that much advice and call himself Boofhead, mate your a Legend :(:2

[donoauto]

I`m gonna go with something like the Edelbrock performer rpm package (heads/manifold/cam/carby) & a set of headers. Just will change to electronic ignition. Where should I best get this package in Aust. or should I import ( taking into account taxes?/freight/aussie dollar)?

[Grimbo]

thanks for the feedback guys,

Frank70 talks about diff gears, I have a AOD in mine but the ratio does seem a bit tall, how do I know what the diff ratio is and how difficult is it to change ?

cheers

[boofhead]

GOLDSCODE  - Thanks - I am definitely a legend in my own mind. :w  Thanks for the compliment. BTW: Nice gold mustang.

donoauto  - Not a bad approach as you will get basically what is advertised. I suggest you order and import from the US. The heads are not the best but good for the money. See http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-2091/

Grimbo - Your first step is to check the tag on your diff as this will provide an idea what was once in it (but over time may have changed). There are a number of other options:
1) Calculate it from speed v RPM v TireSize (in 1:1 gear).
2) Lift the back and rotate the wheels and count the number of times the drive shaft turns for one rotation of the wheels (need a locker to do this properly).
3) Pull the diff center and count the crown.


Changing is easy if you have another diff center.

[jbrucem1]

summit shipping quote for the edelbrock package would be about 600 US.. you could do it a lot cheaper if you could chuck it in someones shipping container..

[68pony]

thanks for the feedback guys,

Frank70 talks about diff gears, I have a AOD in mine but the ratio does seem a bit tall, how do I know what the diff ratio is and how difficult is it to change ?

cheers

when you are working out your diff ratio make sure you are in 3rd gear 1:1 as you aod has a .67 overdrive use the link i have pasted to work it out , do your test at 40mph ,so at 40mph punch in your rpm and punch in your wheel and tyre  diameter and below is your diff ratio.
http://www.csgnetwork.com/gearratcalc.html
If you don't have a tacho then click on utube link for a different way
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_Enyf67KTs
cheers chris.

[Dyn4mic]

thanks for the feedback guys,

Frank70 talks about diff gears, I have a AOD in mine but the ratio does seem a bit tall, how do I know what the diff ratio is and how difficult is it to change ?

cheers

when you are working out your diff ratio make sure you are in 3rd gear 1:1 as you aod has a .67 overdrive use the link i have pasted to work it out , do your test at 40mph ,so at 40mph punch in your rpm and punch in your wheel and tyre  diameter and below is your diff ratio.
http://www.csgnetwork.com/gearratcalc.html

wow awesome we got taught the equation and used to have to work it out in our heads at college this is nice ;y

[benzo]

Hey guys,

Sorry to dig up an old post but I didn't want to clutter the board with an new thread that is still related to things brought up in this one.

My 302 started making tapping noises 3 days ago which haven't gone away after an oil change. I'm looking at replacing the lifters and cam when I get the rest of my parts fitted. Boofhead (or anyone), can you recommend a good cam and lifter package for a daily driven 302 that will have:

Weiand stealth intake
Holley 600cfm vac secondary carb
Tri-Y headers
2.5" Magnaflow exhaust with X pipe

I want to maintain decent fuel economy and drivability but still have a nice ammount of torque down low.

Cheers,

Ben.

[jbrucem1]

comp cams 268h??

[boofhead]

Your parts list is a good base to add to.

I have used the Comp268H and have been very happy with the result. So even though it is a older style grind it would be a good choice. Summit sell the CAM/Lifter/Springs/Timing Chain  as a kit or individually.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-SK35-218-3/

Alternatively, the Comp Extreme Energy XE-262H which is a more modern grind.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL31-238-3/
or full kit
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K31-238-3/

The XE-262 above has higher lift for the same duration which is where the modern cam profiles go in that they are a more aggressive profile. If your want to be a little more conservative then the XE-256 might suite.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K31-234-3/

One thing to remember is that flat tappet cams were designed when there was alot of zinc in the oils which is no so much the case these days (you can get oil with it in there but you must choose carefully).  So with that in mind then a retro fit roller cam might be another option. This would also remove the need (and worry during) the cam run in period.

For example,

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-K35-512-8/

With the roller options the second advantage is the lift can be far higher. This is good just need to be aware of Piston to Valve clearance issues. You would also need to install the spider so there is some minor block modifications necessary. If I was pulling the heads then I would go for a larger roller than the one above as you can then notch the pistons. I know I have provided many (maybe to many options). My goal was to help start your research process. You would be fine with a flat tappet cam for your circumstances.

Hope this helped.

[EXHAUSTED]

Hey guys,

Sorry to dig up an old post but I didn't want to clutter the board with an new thread that is still related to things brought up in this one.

My 302 started making tapping noises 3 days ago which haven't gone away after an oil change. I'm looking at replacing the lifters and cam when I get the rest of my parts fitted. Boofhead (or anyone), can you recommend a good cam and lifter package for a daily driven 302 that will have:

Weiand stealth intake
Holley 600cfm vac secondary carb
Tri-Y headers
2.5" Magnaflow exhaust with X pipe

I want to maintain decent fuel economy and drivability but still have a nice ammount of torque down low.

Cheers,

Ben.

Ben check your U2U box

[shaunp]

comp cams 268h??

I used to recomend Comp Cams Extreme energy, but I've few fail now. What they are is a cam with wide .050" duration, but tight overall duration in comparsion, so in real terms you are buying a quieter cam than you think, so the engine makes good torque. To achieve this .050" / overall duration mix, they have very steep flanks off the quieting ramp. This means they carry alot of load as a flat tappet, and wear easily if mis treated. Got 262H on the bench now from a snappy low mile 289, 2 lobes missing, bottom of a lifter gone, crap chucked into one front bore, now scored, not sure if I can clean it up with a hone, and it's at .040" so it's a new block or a sleeve perhaps, or I'm stuck with the this engine. Look at the Dual energy Comp cams I reckon.

[shaunp]

Hey guys,

Sorry to dig up an old post but I didn't want to clutter the board with an new thread that is still related to things brought up in this one.

My 302 started making tapping noises 3 days ago which haven't gone away after an oil change. I'm looking at replacing the lifters and cam when I get the rest of my parts fitted. Boofhead (or anyone), can you recommend a good cam and lifter package for a daily driven 302 that will have:

Weiand stealth intake
Holley 600cfm vac secondary carb
Tri-Y headers
2.5" Magnaflow exhaust with X pipe

I want to maintain decent fuel economy and drivability but still have a nice ammount of torque down low.

Cheers,

Ben.

Check the rockers first, the rail rockers can where and rub on the valve cap, to the point where they can drop a valve. Also throw a bottle of lifter fixer in it, first.

[donoauto]

Hey guys , just received my edelbrock 2091 kit today as well as avs thunder series 650cfm edelbrock carby, carby tuning kit (will dynotune), black crinkle ford racing "mustang" rocker covers, black oval "mustang" air cleaner, lokar accel. & C4 kickdown cables. Took 5 hours this arvo to strip engine/engine bay to finally get down to short block stage.
Assembly will probably begin ( & hopefully end.........) Saturday. Very interested/excited to see difference!!
p.s. got the 2091 package from Rocket in the end. Worked out around $150 dearer but I figured if something goes wrong under warranty , it's a lot cheaper to freight to Syd. than U.S. Got other stuff from Summit in the states.

[jbrucem1]

how much was the edelbrock kit donauto?

[benzo]

Thanks a tonne guys (Boofhead, you've outdone yourself). Very helpfull advice and it gives me some direction on where to go from here now. I'll be sure to post the results of the upgrades and a video for other people's reference. If anyone has any mechanics in Perth they would like to recomend, I'm all ears!

[donoauto]

how much was the edelbrock kit donauto?

From Rocket , $2565 inc. GST. I didn't want to wait 2 months for no freight charge , so paid extra $250 to have it in 2 weeks. ED1806 AVS Thunder 650cfm carby was $520. Prices as of 2 days ago with current aussie dollar value. Was originally quoted $2640 & they just passed on the discount which was excellent & very honest of them.