Engine rebuild

[Reborn67]

Back again gents, this time with a subject that has almost been done to death,  Dissy gears.......,
Now my cam is a lunati voodoo, and l cant for the life of me find on the spec sheet or their web site what material it is classified as, this whole billet vs iron hydraulic (ductile iron) seems to me a tad baffling, so my question is if l can get a melonized gear for my dissy that seems to tick all the boxes, if not do l use a hardened steel gear, running up the white flag once again...,

Now l have just read about Composite gears to ad to the choice, any thoughts on those??

[Reborn67]

 Finally got a response from Lunati tech support, and the cam is made out of Induction Hardened Cast Iron,
 So the dissy gear is to be Melonized or Cast iron. Why they can't say that on the spec sheet is one of the mysteries of the @#%&ing universe..,

[shaunp]

Finally got a response from Lunati tech support, and the cam is made out of Induction Hardened Cast Iron,
 So the dissy gear is to be Melonized or Cast iron. Why they can't say that on the spec sheet is one of the mysteries of the @#%&ing universe..,

Yes most hydraulic  Roller cams are SADI. Selectively austempered ductile iron, these need a melonized  steel gear, a Steel Billet HR/SR need bronze or Melonized,
Cast cam can use iron or melonized.  If you have drilled the hole in the plug behind the dissy to let oil in you will be fine regardless.

[Reborn67]

 

[barnett468]

Now l have just read about Composite gears to ad to the choice, any thoughts on those??

Many instances of breakage. They are designed for engines that use a dry sump oil system so there is much less load on the gear.

[Reborn67]

 Back again after quite some time, The engine rebuild got put on the back burner for some time due to other things, anyway have been busy sourcing new parts to finish this off, got the new heads, intake, carb, rockers etc, up to the stage of chasing pushrods, so," Attention" Barnett, rereading back through the pages of this thread and one of the suggestions was 'Howards .118" chromoly pushrods, I  haven't been able to find any such rod. .080" is the thickest I can find, and I assume that would be ample for my situation, as usual, if anyone has any thoughts/suggestions feel free to share..,

[barnett468]

Back again after quite some time, The engine rebuild got put on the back burner for some time due to other things, anyway have been busy sourcing new parts to finish this off, got the new heads, intake, carb, rockers etc, up to the stage of chasing pushrods, so," Attention" Barnett, rereading back through the pages of this thread and one of the suggestions was 'Howards .118" chromoly pushrods, I  haven't been able to find any such rod. .080" is the thickest I can find, and I assume that would be ample for my situation, as usual, if anyone has any thoughts/suggestions feel free to share..,

what cam and spring pressure are you running?

[Reborn67]

 Ok, Cam is a Lunati,  lift Int .551"  Ex .565"  Recommended rocker ratio 1.6
       Rockers Comp Cams Gold  1.6
       Heads   AFR 1388  185's     Ext spring  140 lbs  int spring 365 lbs    .600 max lift
       Lifters   Howards 'link bar'

[barnett468]

Ok, Cam is a Lunati,  lift Int .551"  Ex .565"  Recommended rocker ratio 1.6
       Rockers Comp Cams Gold  1.6
       Heads   AFR 1388  185's     Ext spring  140 lbs  int spring 365 lbs    .600 max lift
       Lifters   Howards 'link bar'

you can get them from the following mfg's however, unless you are revving it to the moon and trying to get ever last hp out of it that you can, the .080" wall chromoly ones will be ok.

smith brothers
manton
trend performance
howards cams

[Reborn67]

 

[Reborn67]

 Hey Gents, looking for peoples opinions on dissys, looking at MSD in particular and there is about 600 to choose from, specifically vac advance over mechanical, the vac advance seem to be more expensive, not that cost is the point of choice, just interested in peoples thoughts and past experiences,  Thanks  Andrew..,

[Dwayne]

I think a few people are having issues with MSD's rusting inside and are buying the Aussie I.C.E. instead.

Make sure you match the dizzy gear to your cam material.

[Reborn67]

Another pleasant afternoon..,

[Reborn67]

Quick question regarding dipstick to the knowledgeable,
It appears there is a groove to allow for an O ring at the stop of the stick, which is probably long gone, is that the case, also have searched for images and most appear to have a collar that fits over the tube, build date is Jan 67, not going concourse but wondering if it has been swapped? Any thoughts..,

[Reborn67]

Does actually fit together quite well,

[SMH00N]

Can't comment on the dipstick, but K&N filters are virtually the same price as Ryco. Maybe I believe their hype but they are all I use on all my cars.
I have MSD 8579 distributor, 6AL box and HVC coil. Very happy with it but if I went again I'd probably go ICE. They seem to be pretty good and back their stuff if it fails.

[Reborn67]

Discovered a part number and starting to wonder if this is original, Should’nt a Mustang part have a Z in it? O is Fairlane or Torino isn’t it???

[67FBGT]

Same part # as on my '67.
No O ring or collar on mine.
The auto trans dipstick on mine has a collar though.

[Reborn67]

 Thanks Gents for your replies.
 To 67FBGT, very interesting and reassuring at the same time...,
 To SMHOON, seems to be growing feedback that an ICE ignition is the way to go...,

[barnett468]

Thanks Gents for your replies.
 To 67FBGT, very interesting and reassuring at the same time...,
 To SMHOON, seems to be growing feedback that an ICE ignition is the way to go...,

you shouldn't have a problem with an msd unless you are in a humid area. the ice may be best but it's quite pricey.

[Reborn67]

 Okay Guys, I have a question that most likely has an obvious answer, Getting to the business end of this engine rebuild ( waiting on a Dissy ) and a few other minors and it's done, very keen to take it to get run in, tuned and dyno'd and see what this baby can do, But, then it will be wrapped up and put away in a corner for 12-18 months min whilst the body etc gets its turn, which is probably not ideal.
 Or do I curb my enthusiasm wrap it up now, and then fire it up a little closer to body completion, Probably answered my own question but there has to be others in the same situation..??

[67FBGT]

Surely best to test it now while memories of the build and parts sourcing are fresh, and while warranties, if any, are current?

[barnett468]

Okay Guys, I have a question that most likely has an obvious answer, Getting to the business end of this engine rebuild ( waiting on a Dissy ) and a few other minors and it's done, very keen to take it to get run in, tuned and dyno'd and see what this baby can do, But, then it will be wrapped up and put away in a corner for 12-18 months min whilst the body etc gets its turn, which is probably not ideal.
 Or do I curb my enthusiasm wrap it up now, and then fire it up a little closer to body completion, Probably answered my own question but there has to be others in the same situation..??

I would not dyno a street engine until it had at least 500 miles on it using non synthetic oil.

Running the engine now then storing it will not cause any problems other than you will need to re-prime the oil system when you fire it up again and you will need to drain the carb before you store it.
.