Mustang Owners Club Australia Forum
Technical & General Discussion Area => Tech Torque Pre 1973 => Topic started by: Me! on November 07, 2016, 01:32:42 pm
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Firstly, I apologise if this has been posted here before and answered. I tried a quick search not finding the direct answers I'm looking for.
I have a 1965 Mustang with Manual Transmission and Hydraulic Clutch Setup.
Now, I would like to add a brake booster - but trying to avoid having a remote booster setup to keep the engine bay tidy.
Is there a kit that will suit without having clearance issues? Main concerns are clearing the strut tower and especially the clutch master cylinder.
Advise anyone?
Also, anyone here has looked into this before or used Scott Drake's solution or MPBrake's solution? They have a kit that supposedly fits but so far, I cant find information on actual dimensions (so i can verify myself in my car) or any information that gives me more certainty that "it SHOULD fit".
Thank you
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Do you have a picture of your hydraulic setup and where the MC sits?
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If your car has a hydraulic clutch, your set up is not standard for a 65. The aftermarket brake boosters are designed for a car with a standard set-up (mechanical clutch) so your clutch master cylinder will always be a problem by being in the way. An aftermarket booster will clear the shock tower.
If you buy a booster with a dual master cylinder, you will need to change your distribution block and run new brake lines.
Posting a picture of the location of your clutch master cylinder may help.
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What's the reason for you wanting to add a booster? Do you know what front and rear brakes your car has? The dimension of your master cylinder bore would be good to know too.
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Justin,
If you have the clutch master cylinder basically on the original hole in the firewall where the original mechanical linkage was you are going to struggle to find a brake booster that will fit.
I have a Modern Driveline hydaulic clutch set up in mine which puts the clutch master hard up against the inner guard right under the square wiring plug which leaves room for my dual circuit brake booster set up. Another option is one of Mal Wood's conversions that puts the clutch master on the pedal box itself inside the car. You send him your pedal box and he sends it back with this set up on it. You also send him money and, with no disrespect to Mal, hope it doesn't leak brake fluid on your carpet.
We're on holidays at the moment until the end of next week but you're welcome to come and have a look at mine when we get back.
Geoff
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Yeah this is mine with the malwood setup. Gives you plenty of room for a booster, as the master is on the pedal box, however you are now talking a fair bit of money you'll have to spend to change over.
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I understand the reason why running a booster would be an issue and was thinking that the simplest/cheapest option might be to get his manual brakes working better. I've found that most cars light cars with rear drums don't need a booster if properly setup.
Might find with a more aggressive front pad and a 10lbs residual valve to the rear drums that a booster is no longer required.
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Do you have a picture of your hydraulic setup and where the MC sits?
See attached for a photo of where my dual bowl and clutch master cylinder currently sits
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If your car has a hydraulic clutch, your set up is not standard for a 65. The aftermarket brake boosters are designed for a car with a standard set-up (mechanical clutch) so your clutch master cylinder will always be a problem by being in the way. An aftermarket booster will clear the shock tower.
If you buy a booster with a dual master cylinder, you will need to change your distribution block and run new brake lines.
Posting a picture of the location of your clutch master cylinder may help.
Yes, it is not standard already.
Which aftermarket booster will clear the shock tower AND clutch master cylinder would be my question.
What's the reason for you wanting to add a booster? Do you know what front and rear brakes your car has? The dimension of your master cylinder bore would be good to know too.
I dont know the answers to these unfortunately. I got the car as it is.
Justin,
If you have the clutch master cylinder basically on the original hole in the firewall where the original mechanical linkage was you are going to struggle to find a brake booster that will fit.
I have a Modern Driveline hydaulic clutch set up in mine which puts the clutch master hard up against the inner guard right under the square wiring plug which leaves room for my dual circuit brake booster set up. Another option is one of Mal Wood's conversions that puts the clutch master on the pedal box itself inside the car. You send him your pedal box and he sends it back with this set up on it. You also send him money and, with no disrespect to Mal, hope it doesn't leak brake fluid on your carpet.
We're on holidays at the moment until the end of next week but you're welcome to come and have a look at mine when we get back.
Geoff
I was just reading up on the Modern Driveline Hydraulic Clutch setup. Is there any further modifications that needs to be done? Or is it just a plug and play setup? I presume new holes will need to be drilled for the clutch master cylinder to sit to the side?
And which dual circuit brake booster set up did you use?
Any photos?
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Id try the one for a manual car which has the stand off bracket and canter lever to attach to the pedal.
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http://www.mustangautoparts.com.au/pbc65m.html.
Or use a VH44 remote booster.
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I've got the correct setup for a manual car. I'll measure the clearance from lowest point of booster to the top of column
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Id try the one for a manual car which has the stand off bracket and canter lever to attach to the pedal.
http://www.mustangautoparts.com.au/pbc65m.html.
Or use a VH44 remote booster.
Thanks. I'm trying to avoid having a remote booster. So I would like to fully explore my options available without one first.
Failing that then I'll need to look at how else to mount the remote booster in a neater setup.
I've got the correct setup for a manual car. I'll measure the clearance from lowest point of booster to the top of column
What setup are you using? I presume on a 65 too?
Which booster (brand and size) and also which clutch master cylinder? Will be great if you have more details! thanks!
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Yep it's a 65, all original setup. 3speed top loader. I'm using ABS booster/master. No clearance issues other than it was either notching out the bottom of brace or fitting a one piece export brace which I did.
The clearance from lowest part of booster to top of steering column is 80mm.
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Yep it's a 65, all original setup. 3speed top loader. I'm using ABS booster/master. No clearance issues other than it was either notching out the bottom of brace or fitting a one piece export brace which I did.
The clearance from lowest part of booster to top of steering column is 80mm.
What Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder are you running?
Can you post a photo of your setup here?
Appreciate the help
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Has anyone had any experience with the Modern Driveline Clutch Master Cylinder setup?
http://www.moderndriveline.com/catalog/hydraulic_masters.htm
Summary of my findings for my car:
- Clearance from firewall to strut tower. Depending on which kit I use, I may need to dent the strut tower very slightly if I want to go for a dual bowl reservoir
- Clearance from clutch master cylinder - this is one that I am still unable to get a definitive answer to
So far, I have not been able to find a kit that is able to clear the clutch m/c. The Modern Driveline one is the closest thing I am able to find online that offsets the clutch master cylinder a tad more. This means that I will need to cut a hole on the firewall to suit - this is OK as I can just plate over the existing hole anyway.
Not sure whether any other modifications will be required..
But again, just want to know for sure before I go ordering..
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As I said, I have the MD set up and there are no clearance issues. Couldn't tell you the details of the brake booster and can't do a photo at the moment because I'm away from home (and the car) until the end of next week.
I think you will have problems with an original booster or replica thereof. It's correct that there are different ones for a manual that allow for the clutch mechanism but what they're allowing for is the original mechanical linkage, not a clutch master on the firewall.
Fitting the MD setup is straightforward enough. As I am fond of saying on here about many things, if I can do it anyone can. Yes you have to cut another hole in the firewall. MD provide a template for getting this right and a rubber plug for the original hole. A right angled drill attachment is pretty handy. Other than that, like a lot of things with these cars you need to be a contortionist to get your hands in where you need to attach the mechanism to the clutch pedal arm. Once done it works like a dream. It incorporates a clever bit of leverage geometry that makes for a nice light pedal, way better than the original mechanical z bar setup.
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What Hydraulic Clutch Master Cylinder are you running?
Can you post a photo of your setup here?
Appreciate the help
No hydraulic setup. All original. There's 80mm of clearance in that spot.
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As I said, I have the MD set up and there are no clearance issues. Couldn't tell you the details of the brake booster and can't do a photo at the moment because I'm away from home (and the car) until the end of next week.
I think you will have problems with an original booster or replica thereof. It's correct that there are different ones for a manual that allow for the clutch mechanism but what they're allowing for is the original mechanical linkage, not a clutch master on the firewall.
Fitting the MD setup is straightforward enough. As I am fond of saying on here about many things, if I can do it anyone can. Yes you have to cut another hole in the firewall. MD provide a template for getting this right and a rubber plug for the original hole. A right angled drill attachment is pretty handy. Other than that, like a lot of things with these cars you need to be a contortionist to get your hands in where you need to attach the mechanism to the clutch pedal arm. Once done it works like a dream. It incorporates a clever bit of leverage geometry that makes for a nice light pedal, way better than the original mechanical z bar setup.
Thanks! Sorry I have been reading up quite a bit and talking to a lot of people about this - starting to get contradicting information from various sources.
Hence, I always prefer hearing from those who has the right setup or has real experience in it - cuts out the guess work.
Will be great if you could take some photos and perhaps even find out what brake booster setup you are using so if all good, all I need to do is to replicate what you have!
I am looking at this: http://www.cjponyparts.com/master-power-power-brake-conversion-kit-dual-bowl-disc-brakes-manual-transmission-1965-1966/p/BBCK8/
I have heard back from Master Power Brake themselves - they said it SHOULD fit as it is with my clutch master cylinder but i'm not too convinced really - as it know it's touch and go clearance between the brake booster and the clutch m/c in its original hole.
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No hydraulic setup. All original. There's 80mm of clearance in that spot.
I know you mentioned you have an ABS Brake Booster kit - mind sending over a link on which one it is? I try googling it but I wasnt able to pinpoint which one exactly.
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I know you mentioned you have an ABS Brake Booster kit - mind sending over a link on which one it is? I try googling it but I wasnt able to pinpoint which one exactly.
Just measure from the top of steering column to the highest point of clutch master. As I mentioned I have 80mm clearance to the bottom of booster. The booster also sits out a fair bit. I'll try and measure that distance fir you.
Part # PBC-M1 64-66 Manual W/Disc PWR Brake.
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Will be great if you could take some photos and perhaps even find out what brake booster setup you are using so if all good, all I need to do is to replicate what you have!
I am looking at this: http://www.cjponyparts.com/master-power-power-brake-conversion-kit-dual-bowl-disc-brakes-manual-transmission-1965-1966/p/BBCK8/
I have heard back from Master Power Brake themselves - they said it SHOULD fit as it is with my clutch master cylinder but i'm not too convinced really - as it know it's touch and go clearance between the brake booster and the clutch m/c in its original hole.
I can't get you a photo of mine until we get home end of next week but happy to do that if you still need it then. You could get in touch with
www.griffs.com.au
where I got my brake kit and find out what it is exactly. Tim Griffin will probably remember me and my car.
I understand your reluctance to rely on advice like "it should fit". I'm not sure that the clearance between a brake booster and the steering column is going to be all that useful given that the column slopes down and the clutch master is horizontal. I reckon its pretty clear from your photo that a brake booster just won't fit.
What you could do is get the CJ kit you linked to which has a 7" booster like mine and see how you go. If it fits you're all good but if, as I predict, it doesn't, you can then get the MD clutch setup which does work fine with a 7" booster. You want a brake booster and dual circuit master anyway and that way are only buying the MD clutch kit once you know you definitely need it.
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Just measure from the top of steering column to the highest point of clutch master. As I mentioned I have 80mm clearance to the bottom of booster. The booster also sits out a fair bit. I'll try and measure that distance fir you.
Part # PBC-M1 64-66 Manual W/Disc PWR Brake.
Thanks John for sending me the photos. I've attached them here as well (with his approval of course).
So what John has is a brake booster kit as per part number above. However, still with the original cable clutch linkages.
Just from the photos itself, I am very certain it will not fit my setup with a hydraulic clutch master cylinder. It currently sits through the same hole where the mechanical rod. But the mechanical rod slopes downwards (as seen in the photo) which clears the brake booster.
The clutch m/c I have is about 100mm long and is perpendicular to the firewall. This will hit the brake booster housing.
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I can't get you a photo of mine until we get home end of next week but happy to do that if you still need it then. You could get in touch with
www.griffs.com.au
where I got my brake kit and find out what it is exactly. Tim Griffin will probably remember me and my car.
I understand your reluctance to rely on advice like "it should fit". I'm not sure that the clearance between a brake booster and the steering column is going to be all that useful given that the column slopes down and the clutch master is horizontal. I reckon its pretty clear from your photo that a brake booster just won't fit.
What you could do is get the CJ kit you linked to which has a 7" booster like mine and see how you go. If it fits you're all good but if, as I predict, it doesn't, you can then get the MD clutch setup which does work fine with a 7" booster. You want a brake booster and dual circuit master anyway and that way are only buying the MD clutch kit once you know you definitely need it.
Will be waiting for you to get back from your holidays for sure. Let me know.
And yes, agree with you on the points above.
- The brake booster will not fit my current setup
- Buy a 7" booster like yours - either CJ Kit or if possible, same as yours since you've got a working solution that works.
- Get a MD Clutch kit
Question on the MD Clutch Kit - I presume it uses the stock clutch pedal? Now, I need to check whether my clutch pedal is "stock" or has been modified previously or not.
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Yep, standard '66 clutch pedal in mine. '65 pedals are the same as far as I know. The MD gear bolts to the clutch pedal through the hole in the pedal arm that the mechanical linkage originally hooked up to.
Just give MD ALL the information about your car when you order it. The guy you want there is Paul Coffey - paul@moderndriveline.com. Great to deal with.
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Yep, standard '66 clutch pedal in mine. '65 pedals are the same as far as I know. The MD gear bolts to the clutch pedal through the hole in the pedal arm that the mechanical linkage originally hooked up to.
Just give MD ALL the information about your car when you order it. The guy you want there is Paul Coffey - paul@moderndriveline.com. Great to deal with.
Thanks! Will get in touch with Paul.
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Hey Ryan , if you do consider buying a master power booster and dual bowl setup for a manual trans 65/66 , let me know as I put one on my 66 for a 50km run then removed it and ran a full wilwood system. You can have it for $350 half what I paid if your interested. IT has been sprayed black. Cheers Mark.
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Will be waiting for you to get back from your holidays for sure. Let me know.
And yes, agree with you on the points above.
- The brake booster will not fit my current setup
- Buy a 7" booster like yours - either CJ Kit or if possible, same as yours since you've got a working solution that works.
- Get a MD Clutch kit
Question on the MD Clutch Kit - I presume it uses the stock clutch pedal? Now, I need to check whether my clutch pedal is "stock" or has been modified previously or not.
More information found.
So I did contact Griffs and apparently, the brake booster they use is from ABS Power Brake USA.
Geoff289: Can you confirm this please? Thank you.
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Just measure from the top of steering column to the highest point of clutch master. As I mentioned I have 80mm clearance to the bottom of booster. The booster also sits out a fair bit. I'll try and measure that distance fir you.
Part # PBC-M1 64-66 Manual W/Disc PWR Brake.
John,
Can you confirm please?
If your part number is PBC-M1 - I presume it is the Scott Drake kit - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sdk-pbc-m1/overview/
But in one of your posts, you mentioned you have an ABS one?
Reason I'm asking now is I'm considering between 2 brake booster kits:
Scott Drake's - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sdk-pbc-m1/overview/
or
Master Power's - http://www.cjponyparts.com/master-power-power-brake-conversion-kit-dual-bowl-disc-brakes-manual-transmission-1965-1966/p/BBCK8/
About USD$135 difference.. If there are no issues with the Scott Drake's kit, then dont see why I should spend more?
Anyone with further thoughtS?
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John,
Can you confirm please?
If your part number is PBC-M1 - I presume it is the Scott Drake kit - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sdk-pbc-m1/overview/
But in one of your posts, you mentioned you have an ABS one?
Reason I'm asking now is I'm considering between 2 brake booster kits:
Scott Drake's - https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sdk-pbc-m1/overview/
or
Master Power's - http://www.cjponyparts.com/master-power-power-brake-conversion-kit-dual-bowl-disc-brakes-manual-transmission-1965-1966/p/BBCK8/
About USD$135 difference.. If there are no issues with the Scott Drake's kit, then dont see why I should spend more?
Anyone with further thoughtS?
Yes that's the correct part # as stated on my invoice. Yes my booster has ABS marked on it. Hamburglar is selling the same one as mine. You can check mine out anytime.
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Yes that's the correct part # as stated on my invoice. Yes my booster has ABS marked on it. Hamburglar is selling the same one as mine. You can check mine out anytime.
Thanks. I'll see whether I can tee up some time this weekend to have a look at yours.
Yes, wanted to get from Hamburglar but I was a tad too slow - someone got to him and bought it before me. Ah well.. All good.
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Thanks. I'll see whether I can tee up some time this weekend to have a look at yours.
Yes, wanted to get from Hamburglar but I was a tad too slow - someone got to him and bought it before me. Ah well.. All good.
You snooze, you lose...
I'll be at the Drive ins Saturday night. Come for a drive
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Ryan,
Here's a couple of not so good pics of my set up. It's a hard spot to get a good photo but I think you can see there is ample clearance between the booster and the clutch MC.
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j212/GEOFFSTER_2006/IMG_1017.jpg) (http://s81.photobucket.com/user/GEOFFSTER_2006/media/IMG_1017.jpg.html)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j212/GEOFFSTER_2006/IMG_1016.jpg) (http://s81.photobucket.com/user/GEOFFSTER_2006/media/IMG_1016.jpg.html)
Geoff
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Ryan,
Here's a couple of not so good pics of my set up. It's a hard spot to get a good photo but I think you can see there is ample clearance between the booster and the clutch MC.
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j212/GEOFFSTER_2006/IMG_1017.jpg) (http://s81.photobucket.com/user/GEOFFSTER_2006/media/IMG_1017.jpg.html)
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j212/GEOFFSTER_2006/IMG_1016.jpg) (http://s81.photobucket.com/user/GEOFFSTER_2006/media/IMG_1016.jpg.html)
Geoff
Thanks Jeff!
I'm sold! Already made my payment for a MDL kit. Will only be able to fit it in the new year.
Thanks!
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Hi all,
It has been a while and it has taken me this long to complete my mission. But thought I'd contribute back to this forum as well.
So here's my initial setup (for those not wanting to read through the details):
- 65 Mustang Fastback / Left Hand drive / Manual Transmission / No Power Steering / AC / Hydraulic Clutch / Front Disc Brakes and Rear Drums
Aim: To add an-line Brake Booster
Challenges: Very hard to find a brake booster that will not fail against the hydraulic clutch master cylinder
Here is what I did:
- From recommendations here, I bought a Modern Driveline Clutch Kit. This is the only setup that offsets the clutch m/c to the side away from the booster. The clutch pedal is then connected to the m/c via mechanical linkages.
Installation is easy but required drilling another hole on the firewall (for the clutch master cylinder) and plugging up the original hole. It was well detailed in the instructions so just needed to follow step by step. - Bought a SDK-PBC-M1 - Scott Drake Brake Booster with inline dual-bowl master cylinder - this fitted in right in the corner snugly. Any bigger will require removal of hood and export brace to fit it in.
- I also bought a Wilwood Proportional Valve so I can adjust the rear brakes
Plumbed up all new brake lines in Stainless Steel (the part that took the longest time!).. and now, it's all up and running!
I just got it running last weekend so some more tweaks to do.
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Way to go Ryan. Glad it worked out well for you. Driving them is more fun than working on them.
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Thanks for the summary and update.
It's sure to help a few people in the future.
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Hi all,
It has been a while and it has taken me this long to complete my mission. But thought I'd contribute back to this forum as well.
So here's my initial setup (for those not wanting to read through the details):
- 65 Mustang Fastback / Left Hand drive / Manual Transmission / No Power Steering / AC / Hydraulic Clutch / Front Disc Brakes and Rear Drums
Aim: To add an-line Brake Booster
Challenges: Very hard to find a brake booster that will not fail against the hydraulic clutch master cylinder
Here is what I did:
- From recommendations here, I bought a Modern Driveline Clutch Kit. This is the only setup that offsets the clutch m/c to the side away from the booster. The clutch pedal is then connected to the m/c via mechanical linkages.
Installation is easy but required drilling another hole on the firewall (for the clutch master cylinder) and plugging up the original hole. It was well detailed in the instructions so just needed to follow step by step. - Bought a SDK-PBC-M1 - Scott Drake Brake Booster with inline dual-bowl master cylinder - this fitted in right in the corner snugly. Any bigger will require removal of hood and export brace to fit it in.
- I also bought a Wilwood Proportional Valve so I can adjust the rear brakes
Plumbed up all new brake lines in Stainless Steel (the part that took the longest time!).. and now, it's all up and running!
I just got it running last weekend so some more tweaks to do.
Nice work. Any pics?
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Way to go Ryan. Glad it worked out well for you. Driving them is more fun than working on them.
Cant agree more with that! Every "small" project somehow ends up taking weeks / months..
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Nice work. Any pics?
I did take some photos actually. I'll look for them and post them over the next couple of days.
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I did take some photos actually. I'll look for them and post them over the next couple of days.
We're all waiting :thud: :therethere: :grin:
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haha!
Sorry for the delay - in the midst of moving houses now too so a lot of happening at the same time.
Here are some photos attached.
Photo 1 - Old vs New
Photo 2 - Made a bracket to hold a Wilwood Distribution Block / Proportional Valve
Photo 3 - As per new clutch master cylinder installation instructions, marked out firewall
Photo 4 - New clutch master cylinder installed
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I've got a question here for all though... I'm having difficulties finding a clear answer and no response from Scott Drake or SummitRacing too (where i bought the booster from).
When plumbing up the brake lines from the brake master cylinder - is it:
Front Port to Front Brakes
or
Front Port to Rear Brakes
Or does it matter?
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More photos:
Photo 1: Need to notch out the short brace connected to the shock tower. This is to give clearance for the brake master cylinder bowl / cap.
Photo 2: All new lines run instead of hoses to keep things neat and tidy
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I've got a question here for all though... I'm having difficulties finding a clear answer and no response from Scott Drake or SummitRacing too (where i bought the booster from).
When plumbing up the brake lines from the brake master cylinder - is it:
Front Port to Front Brakes
or
Front Port to Rear Brakes
Or does it matter?
Have a quick look thru here, front brakes rear port
http://www.mpbrakes.com/docs/orig-guides/MPB-F200-38.pdf
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The larger reservoir goes to the front brakes. This is usually the rear of the master cylinder.
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The larger reservoir goes to the front brakes. This is usually the rear of the master cylinder.
Both the bowls on mine are of the same size.
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Have a quick look thru here, front brakes rear port
http://www.mpbrakes.com/docs/orig-guides/MPB-F200-38.pdf
Thanks. I've read that one too. However, is this applicable to ALL brands of dual bowl master cylinders? Or is it brand dependent?
Mine is a Scott Drake.
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Pretty sure it'll be rear port to front brakes.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/tech-dual-master-cylinder/a/147/
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Pretty sure it'll be rear port to front brakes.
http://www.cjponyparts.com/tech-dual-master-cylinder/a/147/
Thanks. I'll give this a go. Just means that i'll need to remove the brake booster from the car again to run the lines neatly.
Note to anyone doing this: this booster JUST fits in the space without removing the export brace and hood i.e. any bigger and you'll be running into more issues and have to start removing more parts from the car.
In the mean time, if anyone happen to their ports running the opposite way (i.e. front port to front brake), do chime in too!
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Note to anyone doing this: this booster JUST fits in the space without removing the export brace and hood i.e. any bigger and you'll be running into more issues and have to start removing more parts from the car.
Bummer! Just had a look at mine. I have a clear inch clearance vertically and half and inch horizontally from the top front edge of the master and the shock tower stub the original brace bolted to.
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Hey Ryan , just saw your post and was told by CJ Pony parts that the front bowl does the rear brakes. I'm in the process of fitting a booster kit from Mustang Steve in the states so i can use my willwood m/c. It uses a 9 inch booster from a fox body which sits right against the firewall and no notching of braces required even with the extra long willwood unit.
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Hey Ryan , just saw your post and was told by CJ Pony parts that the front bowl does the rear brakes. I'm in the process of fitting a booster kit from Mustang Steve in the states so i can use my willwood m/c. It uses a 9 inch booster from a fox body which sits right against the firewall and no notching of braces required even with the extra long willwood unit.
Thanks for confirming that info! I'll need to switch mine the other way around then. I am hoping that will answer why I am getting very hard pedal feel now (as if it's not boosted).
With my Scott Drake setup, the length is not an issue. It clears the shock towers. However, notching the the small corner does help with fitting the whole setup in and maneuvering it into position. Also, the master cylinder cap and clip comes very very close to it.
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Just purchased the Scott Drake PBC-M1 power booster with dual master cylinder but didn’t realise the setup won’t fit without notching the shock tower bracket-not really interested in this as keeping the car stock in all other aspects and engine bay/braces have already been professionally painted!
This is to suit manual trans, front disc rear drum car all stock otherwise to suit aftermarket Kelsey Hayes disc kit.
Does anyone have any other suggestions as to what else I could use that doesn’t require modifying the car?!
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Just purchased the Scott Drake PBC-M1 power booster with dual master cylinder but didn’t realise the setup won’t fit without notching the shock tower bracket-not really interested in this as keeping the car stock in all other aspects and engine bay/braces have already been professionally painted!
This is to suit manual trans, front disc rear drum car all stock otherwise to suit aftermarket Kelsey Hayes disc kit.
Does anyone have any other suggestions as to what else I could use that doesn’t require modifying the car?!
If a shorter master cylinder will help you, try an XB Falcon M/C on your current booster. They're much shorter. I'm running a 7" dual diaphragm universal booster with XB M/C. I have an export brace fitted & don't have any clearance issues. My car is an auto though.
Evan.