It's this auction that has me all in a tizz...

Mustang Australia

Author Topic: It's this auction that has me all in a tizz...  (Read 9471 times)

Offline shelby_mustro

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1965 Ford mustang coupe
hipo 4bbl 347 windsor v8
t5 5 speed manual
4 wheel power assisted brakes

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1967 mustang coupe 289 c4 red
1966 mustang convertible nightmist blue
1951 f1 chopped truck blown c4 black
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Offline jiffy

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« Reply #1 on: March 11, 2010, 04:04:43 pm »
It would soothe away any recent dyno day shortcomings....

Blower Motor

;2
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Offline BLKPNY

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« Reply #2 on: March 11, 2010, 04:34:55 pm »
I put one on my 400m in my F truck, also on an XB coupe, 351, and on a 351 in a ZA fairlane....

Not bad, for the money, but they have their shortcomings. the belt is not good enough, you will need to swap to a 10 rib pulley, or change the tensioner system, to prevent slip. There is nowhere near enough belt wrap, they slip their heads off.

If your looking for 100 - 150 hp over stock, this is it. If you have 400hp, this won't give you 550! If you have 300 - 350, this will give you 400 - 450. You may have pinging issues, if you have already built up your engine for aspirated power.

i paid $2000 for mine, years ago. It was less of a gamble, at that price. For $4200, i would go all out with a 6/71, and run the guantlet with the cops.
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Offline derwin66

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« Reply #3 on: March 11, 2010, 04:36:01 pm »
I think the compression is too high in your motor Ryan to think of this.  YOu need a low compression or your motor will shatter eventually.
65 T code coupe.
Blown 302. Heidts suspension, tricked C4
Gear vendors overdrive, RRS rack and pinion
Street or track roller perches adjustable struts.
60 F100.
Warm 289, AOD

Offline FST68

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« Reply #4 on: March 11, 2010, 05:16:29 pm »
Summit Racing sell the same kit for $3k us so the price is probably pritty close to the money.

I was considering this kit for a while but found everytime I found someone who had one they had issues with belt slip

There where also a few bad article I have read saying thay dont last very long especially on a high reving motors.


Haven't found a a 6/71 kit for a decent price yet.

Offline GT350H

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« Reply #5 on: March 11, 2010, 05:25:38 pm »
Quote
Originally posted by BLKPNY
i would go all out with a 6/71, and run the guantlet with the cops.


I like the boy...:i:::(
AKA Emberglo-66

Offline FST68

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« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2010, 05:44:21 pm »
http://www.dyersblowers.com/1694.html

The above link is the best kit I have found so far

Offline BLKPNY

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« Reply #7 on: March 11, 2010, 09:59:12 pm »
My brother has a 8/71 Dyers kit for a 351w for sale, if anyones interested. I need someone to buy it, before I borrow the cash to buy it myself ;x

If you look at the car that won the Summernats Street class, the 65 coupe, it has this blower, with a proper belt setup, so no slip. The Chev kits have a better belt setup, so they can work with a 6 rib belt, and not slip, but the Ford setup is junk.

6/71's are cheap enough, Weiand sell them for 8.2" blocks. I setup my Clevo blower on my 400m for about $7k with a reco Mooneyham blower, about 5 years ago. They're cheaper now.
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Offline olskool

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« Reply #8 on: March 11, 2010, 11:14:31 pm »
Paid $3200 Oz for my SBC 671 on the willys:( brand spanking
Harley Davidson - The most efficient way to turn fuel into noise without the benefit of horsepower.



Offline shelby_mustro

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« Reply #9 on: March 11, 2010, 11:23:20 pm »
Quote
Originally posted by derwin66
I think the compression is too high in your motor Ryan to think of this.  YOu need a low compression or your motor will shatter eventually.



 hummm tempting... I was almost thinking about building a new motor slowly on a stand in my garage now that the stang is nearly done. I would be a bit worried that my 289 would have to much compression in it like Darwin said.

what did you have to do to lower your compression levels Darwin?? I put flat top pistons for that reason to squeeze more power out of my motor when I built it.
1965 Ford mustang coupe
hipo 4bbl 347 windsor v8
t5 5 speed manual
4 wheel power assisted brakes

Other cars
1967 mustang coupe 289 c4 red
1966 mustang convertible nightmist blue
1951 f1 chopped truck blown c4 black
1963 Xl falcon ute 200ci 3spd manual white

Offline BLKPNY

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« Reply #10 on: March 12, 2010, 10:58:31 am »
Choose a block with good deck height, and don't deck it as far as you can go, like you would on a aspirated motor. Don't deck the heads too much, or buy a set of alloys with large chambers. You can also use dished pistons.
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Offline FST68

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« Reply #11 on: March 12, 2010, 02:23:34 pm »
My sugestion is start with a brand new block and use dished piston 8:1 comp is about what your aiming for.

SAying this if you thinking of a new motor why not start with someting a little bigger, say 351 - stroke to 427, a blower on that setup would be verry impressive.

Offline derwin66

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« Reply #12 on: March 12, 2010, 02:45:35 pm »
Larger chambers and dished pistons.  Its at 9.2 now.
65 T code coupe.
Blown 302. Heidts suspension, tricked C4
Gear vendors overdrive, RRS rack and pinion
Street or track roller perches adjustable struts.
60 F100.
Warm 289, AOD

Offline shaunp

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« Reply #13 on: March 12, 2010, 03:59:10 pm »
Quote
Originally posted by shelby_mustro
Quote
Originally posted by derwin66
I think the compression is too high in your motor Ryan to think of this.  YOu need a low compression or your motor will shatter eventually.



 hummm tempting... I was almost thinking about building a new motor slowly on a stand in my garage now that the stang is nearly done. I would be a bit worried that my 289 would have to much compression in it like Darwin said.

what did you have to do to lower your compression levels Darwin?? I put flat top pistons for that reason to squeeze more power out of my motor when I built it.
 


Make some anealed copper head gaskets from the correct size sheet, to drop the compression, Glue them on with Holden Head stud sealling compound or Orange 3bond, no big deal.

Offline FST68

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« Reply #14 on: March 12, 2010, 04:12:11 pm »
I know it is standard practice but that sounds really dodgy

Offline shelby_mustro

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« Reply #15 on: March 12, 2010, 04:44:12 pm »
the thing is about going 351 is I would have stuff all room with everything I have in it now. I already have a bit of trouble getting the plugs out with the 289. it would be good if I could do what shaun said but would it last??
1965 Ford mustang coupe
hipo 4bbl 347 windsor v8
t5 5 speed manual
4 wheel power assisted brakes

Other cars
1967 mustang coupe 289 c4 red
1966 mustang convertible nightmist blue
1951 f1 chopped truck blown c4 black
1963 Xl falcon ute 200ci 3spd manual white

Offline shelby_mustro

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« Reply #16 on: March 12, 2010, 04:45:14 pm »
derwin what did u have to do to put the supersharger on your 302??
1965 Ford mustang coupe
hipo 4bbl 347 windsor v8
t5 5 speed manual
4 wheel power assisted brakes

Other cars
1967 mustang coupe 289 c4 red
1966 mustang convertible nightmist blue
1951 f1 chopped truck blown c4 black
1963 Xl falcon ute 200ci 3spd manual white

Offline shaunp

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« Reply #17 on: March 12, 2010, 04:46:48 pm »
I've done it to stop purpose built blown engines  from blowing Felpros. Copper and o-rings, + 3bond will never leak or blow.
Once did on a methanol injeted holden motor that came out of an Altered rod drag car, so it would run on Super with SUs in an EJ holden. Showing my age perhaps.

Offline FST68

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« Reply #18 on: March 12, 2010, 04:54:57 pm »
If it was me I would change the pistons.

But I have seen plenty of engines done as per shauns comments and they seem ok.

If you are keen to go that way I would sugest buying propper copper shims they come in a lot of sizes up to about 2mm

Offline BLKPNY

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« Reply #19 on: March 12, 2010, 05:38:57 pm »
9.2 is alright, we've run 18lb thru a Holden engine (iron heads, O ringed block) with VP 109 with that.

Copper Gaskets are easy enough to buy, I don't kno if I'd bother to cut my own. We use the Threebond white sealer, without issue. We also used Copper gaskets on a Clevo with 14:1 comp, no O rings, and alloy heads. We only use Holden Jam for the head studs, never heard of using it for sealing copper head gaskets.
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Offline shelby_mustro

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« Reply #20 on: March 15, 2010, 10:07:59 pm »
so whats the best way to get my motor compression tested to see how much it has... thinking it would be cheeper to keep the motor that i have to put a supercharger on it.. I still want a bit more power out of it... it goes good but more would be better ;2


was looking at tunnel rams aswell would they give it much more power or would that be a waste of money??
1965 Ford mustang coupe
hipo 4bbl 347 windsor v8
t5 5 speed manual
4 wheel power assisted brakes

Other cars
1967 mustang coupe 289 c4 red
1966 mustang convertible nightmist blue
1951 f1 chopped truck blown c4 black
1963 Xl falcon ute 200ci 3spd manual white

Offline BLKPNY

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« Reply #21 on: March 15, 2010, 10:38:29 pm »
Tunnel rams will give you more power at 7000 - 9000 rpm.... if your heads/valves and cam can flow the air, and the crank and rods could stay connected.
They also take away from the bottom end power.

A nice dual plane, or if you want to move the power up higher, and make more power, a single plane manifold will be nice. A manifold pattern (dual plane, single plane or tunnel ram) and the height & length of runners, and the diameter of the ports, are balanced by the operating RPM, Cubic capacity and carb/valve sizes and cam profile.

You can't "Test" compression, to see what ratio it is, you need to measure it.

If it were me (I have a good understanding of engines, and can be happy when it blows up) I would consider chucking the blower on, and tuning it, and seeing how much boost and timing I could throw into it, and see what I end up with.
Not a recommended course of action, if you would be shattered if it died though.....

I have a friend with an XF falcon turbo. He has an ongoing order with the local wreckers, for good running AU 6 cylinder motors. He has a swapover down to less than 1 hour, from drive in to checking timing.... He calls them (engines) tin soldiers, he has a platoon of them sitting in his garage, awaiting their tour of duty.
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Offline shelby_mustro

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« Reply #22 on: March 16, 2010, 09:39:40 am »
sounds like the supercharger would be way more better.. how do u messure them?? its funny I have always thought that could happen to my motor for it to blow up been the first motor I have ever built but I would be more into getting it tested to see what compression it has before I put a supercharger on it. I have driven it a few times now it seems to go good but you try to put your foot down in 2nd gear and it seems to lag a bit when its reving out.
1965 Ford mustang coupe
hipo 4bbl 347 windsor v8
t5 5 speed manual
4 wheel power assisted brakes

Other cars
1967 mustang coupe 289 c4 red
1966 mustang convertible nightmist blue
1951 f1 chopped truck blown c4 black
1963 Xl falcon ute 200ci 3spd manual white

Offline shaunp

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« Reply #23 on: March 16, 2010, 12:08:44 pm »
Quote
Originally posted by BLKPNY
9.2 is alright, we've run 18lb thru a Holden engine (iron heads, O ringed block) with VP 109 with that.

  We only use Holden Jam for the head studs, never heard of using it for sealing copper head gaskets.


OH yeah it works great, I've glued a Jag XK twin cam head straight to the block on an old appendix J Mk2 racer that ran 13.5:1. Couldn't do a meeting without blowing a gasket. The head was lapped to the block, and stuck on with Holden glue. I use it on every worked Jag 3.4/3.8 twin cam as they use a single shim of tin for a head gasket, they never leak with Head stud sealer on them. If you use a 4.2 composite gasket it drops the compression due to thickness.

Ryan to work out the comp you need to take a head off.

Offline FST68

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« Reply #24 on: March 16, 2010, 06:00:43 pm »
Ryan, Did you put this motor together or did you get it done buy an engine builder. if the latter it is likly that they would have checked the compression ratio in the build up.