Author Topic: Underdash (Read 30363 times)

non member · « **Reply #50 on:** May 14, 2010, 09:01:02 am »

One more thing, the door braces are fine as they are. No more reinforcement is needed (in fact your car is very solid, it really did not need them in the first place, only very rusty cars or convertibles that rely on a chassis need them).

mikes68 · « **Reply #51 on:** May 14, 2010, 09:51:56 am »

Thanks Kerry... yeah I thought that the car would be fine but not being a structural engineer I figured for $30.00 (to buy the 1" RHS) it was worth the peace of mind.

By the way - I luuurrrvv your trailer, if you or Sean ever decide to donate one to a worthy cause... :+

Where did you get the ram from? I have been looking around and got quoted $450.00 - stopped looking at that supplier straight away!

mikes68 · « **Reply #52 on:** May 14, 2010, 09:55:47 am »

Oh yeah - Kerry... I was actually wondering about the C og G.

What is the measurement for the point on the rear end?

Do I just build both front and rear the same??

non member · « **Reply #53 on:** May 14, 2010, 10:53:30 am »

You can see the height of the front mount, notice how I have it made so I can adjust the C of G for diff makes of cars. Note my old US trailer before it got blasted & painted. Was not a tilt. I will be bringing my enclosed trailer home soon (8mtr overall, 7mtrs inside), probably with my truck (79 F100 XLT 400C C6)

Rear position here..

Ram I get from a Chinese tool importer, local to me.

mikes68 · « **Reply #54 on:** May 14, 2010, 06:29:43 pm »

I LIKE IT...!!! :(

Thanks for the pics.

Looks like the offset above the rear bumper mounts is not dissimilar to that at the front?

Oh, and at first glance, I thought that was a belt driven rotisserie :w :w

non member · « **Reply #55 on:** May 14, 2010, 07:00:21 pm »

Na, not like those Postal vehicles in another thread, the 67 was on the trailer heading for the blaster.

I used to bring them back upside down so all the grit would be in the roof, easily vacuumed up, then continually spun on the spit until all was out using an air blower & vacuum cleaner.

mikes68 · « **Reply #56 on:** May 16, 2010, 01:16:43 am »

Got stuck into the floor pan today. At this stage I have really just cut around the edges (so to speak). I have also used a spot weld removal drill to cut the welds and a hammer and chisel to finish them off. The spot welds are not typically all that perfectly round or even so it is difficult to cut the whole weld away with one drill bit so it is usually fairly easily finished off with a good belt from a hammer and chisel. You just need to be a little careful that the underlying metal is strong enough to withstand the blow if it is to be retained / reused.

I still have to finish it off under the rockers and along the lower edge of the firewall as well as rip out some of the crappy, rusty sections next to / behind the rear torque boxes.

I will also be cutting out the lower reinforcement plates soon enough.

Here's a couple of shots of the bulk of the floor removed.

[IMG=512x384]http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy353/pyer8s/Endofweek11012.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG=512x384]http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy353/pyer8s/Endofweek11014.jpg[/IMG]

I also spent a bit of time forming up the axis for the rotisserie. I am going to put in a couple of braces at the top and bottom. I did a triple pass on the front and rear edges of the axis points to make sure there is ample strength and to be honest I could probably get away without putting in the reinforcement webs but I'm inclined to over-engineer these things a bit sometimes.

[IMG=512x384]http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy353/pyer8s/Endofweek11007.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG=512x384]http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy353/pyer8s/Endofweek11008.jpg[/IMG]

non member · « **Reply #57 on:** May 16, 2010, 06:57:43 am »

Quote

Originally posted by mikes68
I'm inclined to over-engineer these things a bit sometimes.

A bit !!!! :w

Sorry, that was uncalled for....

Issue you will have is the braces getting in the way, particularly if working on the rear tail light panel. Those ones of mine (built 6 of them) are still going no worries & the only brace on mine is the gusset on the bottom. You can see I transported stuff every where loaded on my trailer.

Each end is holding up about 200kg (300kg on a big car), so not much when you consider the strength of RHS .

Glad you are having fun drilling spot welds, the misshapen ones are because the weld is produced by a copper tip & with extended use they become soft & go out of shape.

BTW, your welding is excellent, you will have no issue getting the strength needed when welding the panels back on the car. Are you left handed?

mikes68 · « **Reply #58 on:** May 16, 2010, 10:26:15 am »

Quote

Originally posted by ozbilt
Quote
Originally posted by mikes68
I'm inclined to over-engineer these things a bit sometimes.

A bit !!!! :w

Sorry, that was uncalled for....

:w :w :w

Quote

Originally posted by ozbilt
Quote
Originally posted by mikes68
I'm inclined to over-engineer these things a bit sometimes.

Issue you will have is the braces getting in the way, particularly if working on the rear tail light panel. Those ones of mine (built 6 of them) are still going no worries & the only brace on mine is the gusset on the bottom. You can see I transported stuff every where loaded on my trailer.

I'm only planning on gussets (that was the word I was looking for - not braces) for the top and bottom as well and the bottom one is not going to extend any further than the end of the pipe at the top so I shouldn't have any dramas with the tail light panel fouling (fingers crossed).

Quote

Originally posted by ozbilt
Quote
Originally posted by mikes68
I'm inclined to over-engineer these things a bit sometimes.

Each end is holding up about 200kg (300kg on a big car), so not much when you consider the strength of RHS .

;x - Seriously, is that all?!?!? I have always been wondering what the bare shell weighs. I only guesstimated by subtracting the weight of the diff, engine, trans suspension etc. I thought the whole car weighed around 1,500 kg and figured minus all the other stuff it might be around 800kg.

Quote

Originally posted by ozbilt
Quote
Originally posted by mikes68
I'm inclined to over-engineer these things a bit sometimes.

Glad you are having fun drilling spot welds, the misshapen ones are because the weld is produced by a copper tip & with extended use they become soft & go out of shape.

YEAH... that is SOOOO much fun:+

Quote

Originally posted by ozbilt
Quote
Originally posted by mikes68
I'm inclined to over-engineer these things a bit sometimes.

BTW, your welding is excellent, you will have no issue getting the strength needed when welding the panels back on the car. Are you left handed?

Cheers, had a bit of practice in my time and doesn't usually take long to get back into the swing of things and besides, when set right, mig welders are a breeze to use.

Oh, and I'm definately right handed but have had plenty of practice welding south paw that I would almost consider myself ambidextrous when welding - not quite but almost.

mikes68 · « **Reply #59 on:** May 16, 2010, 10:30:27 am »

Quote

Originally posted by ozbilt
Na, not like those Postal vehicles in another thread

;w Did I miss something in another thread Kerry. I thought I had read every single thread on this forum...

scott66stang · « **Reply #60 on:** May 16, 2010, 10:42:44 am »

Doing well Mike , your welds look good too.
Im watching yours with extended interest now , as i have recently secured a 67 vert with a "Flintstones floor" , i have already got the new floor for it (one peice Front floor to boot section). So yours is a great reference for me for when i attack mine in the far far future. :(

mikes68 · « **Reply #61 on:** May 16, 2010, 10:51:55 am »

Quote

Originally posted by scott66stang
Doing well Mike , your welds look good too.
Im watching yours with extended interest now , as i have recently secured a 67 vert with a "Flintstones floor" , i have already got the new floor for it (one peice Front floor to boot section). So yours is a great reference for me for when i attack mine in the far far future. :(

Hey Scott, cheers. I am still waiting for my floor to arrive. Should be here in about 3 or 4 weeks - coming in via Lee and Sheridan.

Be more than happy to lend a hand if you need it some day - just sing out and I'll load a six pack and a cut lunch for the journey to the far south...

Take a look at this guy's blog on his 68 vert resto. He has done an excellent job documenting it with HEAPS of photos.

This entry is the prep of the new floor pan...

http://68vert.blogspot.com/2008/11/new-floor-preparation.html

And this entry is the installation of the new floor pan...

http://68vert.blogspot.com/2008/12/welding-in-floor.html

scott66stang · « **Reply #62 on:** May 16, 2010, 11:10:42 am »

Quote

Originally posted by mikes68
Quote
Originally posted by scott66stang
Doing well Mike , your welds look good too.
Im watching yours with extended interest now , as i have recently secured a 67 vert with a "Flintstones floor" , i have already got the new floor for it (one peice Front floor to boot section). So yours is a great reference for me for when i attack mine in the far far future. :(

Hey Scott, cheers. I am still waiting for my floor to arrive. Should be here in about 3 or 4 weeks - coming in via Lee and Sheridan.

Be more than happy to lend a hand if you need it some day - just sing out and I'll load a six pack and a cut lunch for the journey to the far south...

Take a look at this guy's blog on his 68 vert resto. He has done an excellent job documenting it with HEAPS of photos.

This entry is the prep of the new floor pan...

http://68vert.blogspot.com/2008/11/new-floor-preparation.html

And this entry is the installation of the new floor pan...

http://68vert.blogspot.com/2008/12/welding-in-floor.html

;_ links.
Awe! comeon Mike i supply lunch and beverages just for you visiting , you'll get a roast and top shelf for helping. :+

mikes68 · « **Reply #63 on:** May 16, 2010, 01:37:37 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by scott66stang
;_ links.

Yeah his blog is blo@dy awesome:(:(:(.

The level to which he is documenting that resto is fantastic AND he has a great sense of humour in his writing style also... I found it by chance and read the whole blog in one sitting - took about 5 hours from memory.

Quote

Originally posted by scott66stang
Awe! comeon Mike i supply lunch and beverages just for you visiting , you'll get a roast and top shelf for helping. :+

:w - I'm there!!!

mikes68 · « **Reply #64 on:** May 16, 2010, 07:35:03 pm »

Got stuck into the rest of the floor and lower reinforcement boxes today. Apart from a few dags under the inner rockers behind the rear torque boxes the entire floor is now out. I cleaned up all of the crap along the lower edge of the firewall and the front frame rails as can be seen in the image below...

[IMG=512x384]http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy353/pyer8s/Endofweek11b001.jpg[/IMG]

Oh, and just for you Kerry, to ensure I "engineered" this rotisserie "just right" I even added a grease nipple to each of the rollers and loaded them up... :w

[IMG=512x384]http://i807.photobucket.com/albums/yy353/pyer8s/Endofweek11b007.jpg[/IMG]

non member · « **Reply #65 on:** May 16, 2010, 07:43:31 pm »

OK, looks good (both the car & the spit).. :(

One question, how will you keep the body in place on the spit? Just a pin or a brake setup?

tim_morrison82 · « **Reply #66 on:** May 16, 2010, 07:47:06 pm »

i think he's going for that expensive imported wheelstand setup. the one with the jerry can and bucket stacked on top of each other...

mikes68 · « **Reply #67 on:** May 16, 2010, 07:47:11 pm »

Was thinking I will either drill a hole down through the top and pin it otherwise a plate on the back with a bunch of holes and a pin going into the upright leg. I left about an inch sticking out through the rear for that so I have something to play with.

mikes68 · « **Reply #68 on:** May 16, 2010, 07:48:16 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by tim_morrison82
i think he's going for that expensive imported wheelstand setup. the one with the jerry can and bucket stacked on top of each other...

:w Too funny Tim... haven't seen you around here much lately...

mikes68 · « **Reply #69 on:** May 16, 2010, 07:49:57 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by ozbilt
One question, how will you keep the body in place on the spit? Just a pin or a brake setup?

I guess another option is that I will get it so perfectly balanced that I won't need to pin it... :+

non member · « **Reply #70 on:** May 16, 2010, 10:09:33 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by mikes68
Quote
Originally posted by ozbilt
One question, how will you keep the body in place on the spit? Just a pin or a brake setup?

I guess another option is that I will get it so perfectly balanced that I won't need to pin it... :+

Trust me (actually never trust someone that says "trust me") you will never achieve "perfect balance". My suggestion is a rear drum or disk setup from a car & use the parking brake portion of it. Look at mine, that is what I use. That way you can stop the body at any angle.

mikes68 · « **Reply #71 on:** May 16, 2010, 10:12:54 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by ozbilt
Quote
Originally posted by mikes68
Quote
Originally posted by ozbilt
One question, how will you keep the body in place on the spit? Just a pin or a brake setup?

I guess another option is that I will get it so perfectly balanced that I won't need to pin it... :+

Trust me (actually never trust someone that says "trust me") you will never achieve "perfect balance". My suggestion is a rear drum or disk setup from a car & use the parking brake portion of it. Look at mine, that is what I use. That way you can stop the body at any angle.

Good idea that... I was being a bit sarcy (we need that little shark icon) with that comment. I particularly like the park brake bit.

non member · « **Reply #72 on:** May 16, 2010, 10:15:55 pm »

Most rear disk setups on front wheel drive cars have the park brake built in the center & are cheap from the wreckers. Buy the whole rear axle & use the stubs, that way you get wheel bearings, seals etc. Also ask for the park brake handle & cable.

mikes68 · « **Reply #73 on:** May 16, 2010, 10:21:30 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by ozbilt
Most rear disk setups on front wheel drive cars have the park brake built in the center & are cheap from the wreckers. Buy the whole rear axle & use the stubs, that way you get wheel bearings, seals etc. Also ask for the park brake handle & cable.

Nice one... will check it out - thanks for the info, once again:(

Rock65 · « **Reply #74 on:** May 16, 2010, 10:22:27 pm »

Most posts for the day Mike..........Well done

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Author Topic: Underdash (Read 30363 times)