Author Topic: Re-spray (Read 20090 times)

Shockwaver · « **on:** February 01, 2009, 03:18:49 pm »

Lookin to get my 78 resprayed, Does anyone know anyone who does this is Brisbane. I'm also wondering how much it would cost for a new paintjob if i do the innitial sand and bog any dints as oppose to handing the car in as is, and letting them do the work, there is very few dints on the car, if any.

moe · « **Reply #1 on:** February 01, 2009, 03:25:06 pm »

If you are going to sand and bog and do the prep work, why not have a crack at doing it yourself?

nassi · « **Reply #2 on:** February 01, 2009, 04:12:57 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by mo
If you are going to sand and bog and do the prep work, why not have a crack at doing it yourself?

Exactly, buy a book, a compressor and gun and any other tools you need. Then use laquer paint so if you stuff up you just rub it back and do it again. You will save yourself thousands of $'s and be able to say "yep I did that".

Shockwaver · « **Reply #3 on:** February 01, 2009, 05:19:13 pm »

Is it really that easy? I imagined there would have been all sorts of issues using a spray gun in suburban areas. If there isn't then i spose that would be the way to go. Has anyone done there own and had any problems, i heard that someone was spraying outdoor (not sure what) but ended up with a light coating of dirt all over it :s just from the wind i spose.

eri67 · « **Reply #4 on:** February 01, 2009, 05:26:53 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by Shockwaver
Is it really that easy? I imagined there would have been all sorts of issues using a spray gun in suburban areas. If there isn't then i spose that would be the way to go. Has anyone done there own and had any problems, i heard that someone was spraying outdoor (not sure what) but ended up with a light coating of dirt all over it :s just from the wind i spose.

I remember seeing a 58 chev in streetmachine probably 20 years ago now, it was sprayed in a open back yard with a vacuum cleaner type sprayer, the results where stunning,k any thing can be achieved with care and planning.

Frank70 · « **Reply #5 on:** February 01, 2009, 05:51:58 pm »

Have a crack I say !

Most spray painters will overcharge/overquote you as they really dont want the work.

I had an AC Cobra replica a few years ago that I had painted by a guy who taught in TAFE- cost me $2k and he did allthe prep work and supplied all the paint. Did an amazing job ! Pearl Blue with pearl white stripes. They did i as a project, but the intsructor did all the actual spraying.

Wish I still had that guys number !

Cheers,
Frank.

stuie87 · « **Reply #6 on:** February 01, 2009, 05:54:32 pm »

Im painting mine with advice from a old time spraypainter/bodyman.
Ive painted all underneath, engine bay , boot inside, door jams and im almost ready to do the rest.
If i can do it so can you!!!!!

Remember a good spraygun is worth its weight in gold!!!!!

Shockwaver · « **Reply #7 on:** February 01, 2009, 08:15:09 pm »

got some mechanical stuff to attend too and some small rust spots but ill keep you updated, thanks for everyones help im sure ill have some more in the future!

Frank70 · « **Reply #8 on:** February 01, 2009, 08:26:05 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by stuie87
Im painting mine with advice from a old time spraypainter/bodyman.
Ive painted all underneath, engine bay , boot inside, door jams and im almost ready to do the rest.
If i can do it so can you!!!!!

Remember a good spraygun is worth its weight in gold!!!!!

Plus a 'real' compressor - not the $100 Bunnings special.
You need to spend about $400 min I think.

Cheers,
Frank.

stuie87 · « **Reply #9 on:** February 01, 2009, 08:28:50 pm »

As Frank said Definatly not a bunnings jobby buy borrow or hire a big one and also a regulator to remove the water out of the lines.
A bunnys compressor will run and run and drive you mad

nassi · « **Reply #10 on:** February 01, 2009, 10:05:24 pm »

I'm not saying its easy, but it sure is more economical. The job below cost me less than $600 in materials, lots of hours in the shed. Its far from perfect but will hold together until the next rebuild.
Weekend hire of a booth would probably be the way to go if you have issues with neighbors.
If you want a reference book let me know.
cheers

Frank70 · « **Reply #11 on:** February 02, 2009, 12:45:33 am »

Actually I found that dust and other inclusions were not a big problem. I was able to wet sands them out using either 1200 or even 2000 grit paper. No harder to get out than orange peel - maybe easier as long as you sont have too much of it.

Unless you are doing a big $ custom paint job I would not worry too much about dust. Remember that when our cars came out of the factory, they had pretty ordinary paint jobs. Some of the pro resto guys actually replicate the orange peel.

Cheers,
Frank.

evan · « **Reply #12 on:** February 02, 2009, 07:31:24 am »

Shockwaver, I agree with everyone else. The hard part is getting the car pepared so if you're doing that yourself, you're more than half way there. Acrylic paint is very forgiving because once you've sprayed, you sand the top layer off anyway. You end up with a flat, dust free (& peel free) finish. Compressors are a "must have" tool in the garage & are really cheap these days ($500). A good gun (home use) will set you back around $130. As Nassi metioned, $600 will cover the materials. I just got quoted $300 for 4 litres of colour & 8 litres of clear. Primers & bog are cheap.
If you don't trust yourself, buy small quantities & do one panel first.

Evan.

stangLover · « **Reply #13 on:** February 02, 2009, 12:29:31 pm »

;x you guys make it sound easy, i wish i wasn't a :o geek .....I'd be at home right now stripping everything of mine to get it ready for a respray.
Just a quick question,, i've a little rust on the passenger floor, doesn't seem to much just as big as two 5cent pieces.....am i able to just fix that piece of the floor or would it be better to replace the whole floor....and whats involved in replacing the floor..

moe · « **Reply #14 on:** February 02, 2009, 12:31:57 pm »

Is it rusted all the way through?
If so, get the front right floor pan replaced.
If not, what about using a rust converter?

stangLover · « **Reply #15 on:** February 02, 2009, 12:37:10 pm »

Ye, can see the floor through them :[...... but they are tiny and about two of them.

To get the floor pan replaced, is it costly and whats involved?

moe · « **Reply #16 on:** February 02, 2009, 12:44:42 pm »

cutting out the old one and welding in the new one.

nassi · « **Reply #17 on:** February 02, 2009, 01:21:56 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by stangLover
Ye, can see the floor through them :[...... but they are tiny and about two of them.

To get the floor pan replaced, is it costly and whats involved?

If the rest of the floor isnt soft around holes you can weld them up or if the whole area isnt too large consider a patch.

evan · « **Reply #18 on:** February 02, 2009, 10:33:09 pm »

Try tapping around with the tip of a screwdriver. If you punch through in many spots, you'll need to replace the whole section. If it's only a small area, give it a good clean, cut out the affected area & weld in a new piece. It might then pay to treat the area with POR15 or similar rustproofing paint.

Evan.

shaunp · « **Reply #19 on:** February 20, 2009, 03:05:13 pm »

MPA refinishing suplies at Thornside have a booth you can hire, they will also supply every thing you need. talk to Andrew or Luke, If you want someone to quote on pro work call Dave Johnson 0433160897. Dave will do anything from a quick hit to a Chip Foose job. The message bank will say Logan city grass slashing, don't worry about that just leave a measage Tell him Shaun sent you. Dave is a real hot rod guy, take some jim beam cans with you.

Bumblebee · « **Reply #20 on:** February 20, 2009, 03:37:00 pm »

Nassi,

How long have you had those wheels? Lookin' good mate.

Cheers Bee

nassi · « **Reply #21 on:** February 20, 2009, 04:13:41 pm »

Thanks Bee, probably had the rims about a year or so. They used to live in the same shed your car came from :+. I got them from Brian but I'm probably going to sell them. With the struts I would like a deeper offset.
Something like yours would do very nicely but thats a way off yet.
cheers

classicsrbest · « **Reply #22 on:** February 21, 2009, 10:32:23 am »

You are giving me inspiration to start doing my paint myself, I think i will have to do a panel at a time so i can keep driving it !

nassi · « **Reply #23 on:** February 21, 2009, 08:52:45 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by classicsrbest
You are giving me inspiration to start doing my paint myself, I think i will have to do a panel at a time so i can keep driving it !

Just remember to make each mix the same ratio and stir the paint properly. I'm sure you will have fun and break a lot of sweat, but at the end if it works you can say "I did it", and if it dosnt you will have a good idea of what questions to ask when getting a quote. It will be a cheap lesson and I'm sure you wont loose.
cheers

shaunp · « **Reply #24 on:** February 22, 2009, 04:39:50 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by Shockwaver
Is it really that easy? I imagined there would have been all sorts of issues using a spray gun in suburban areas. If there isn't then i spose that would be the way to go. Has anyone done there own and had any problems, i heard that someone was spraying outdoor (not sure what) but ended up with a light coating of dirt all over it :s just from the wind i spose.

I've sprayed plenty of acrylic & 2K in back yard sheds for 25 years. You can paint at home and get excelant results. I know of an FJ that won best wild custom at the Summer nats in the 80's and again after being stored for 20 years last year at the Brisbane hot rod show. It was painted Pearl white under a house at Manly in Brisbane (Dave Johnson"s old mans place). I can speak from experieance if the Brisbane city council comes calling from a complaint as long as you are not making any money from it your cool. I've had a couple of visits over the years

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Author Topic: Re-spray (Read 20090 times)