Author Topic: "sagging" dash? (Read 4015 times)

jlewis · « **on:** January 04, 2009, 08:17:09 am »

I have always wondered why it appears that my dash sags in the middle. I have noticed this in a couple of other RHD conversions, but never in a standard LHD, so I am curious if the conversion is the cause. I was told that the dash is typically cut in half and swapped around, but I have also been told that the dash is part of the structure of the car, and is not to be tampered with/removed.
I have not yet replaced my weathered dash pad, so this may be part of the visual portion of it, but I would think this would appear as the inverse if it was sagging (ie. the dash would appear to be cresting). Both the gauges and the glove box seem in line with the contours lines on the bottom.
Does anyone have any suggestions on what the cause of this is?

Thanks.

Jeremy.

nassi · « **Reply #1 on:** January 04, 2009, 09:08:47 am »

Hi Jeremy,
just a theory but here goes, you will notice that the instrument bezel and glove box door are taller at one end. For LHD this tall section is in the centre of the dash and when the sections of dash are cutout and swapped over as in a conversion it means the taller end of the cluster and glove compartment door are now on the outer extremes of the dash. When the crash pad is refitted it actually interferes with the cluster and glovebox door, pushing the ends upwards and giving the impression of the center sagging.
If the car was converted really well this is probably not the case but in my experience it can happen.
cheers

jlewis · « **Reply #2 on:** January 04, 2009, 11:21:32 am »

Nassi,

How does your's look? Would you mind posting or sending a picture?

Thanks.

nassi · « **Reply #3 on:** January 04, 2009, 02:22:32 pm »

Not a very good example sorry.

http://i153.photobucket.com/albums/s237/1nassi/IMG_1673.jpg

66ROX · « **Reply #4 on:** January 04, 2009, 03:30:31 pm »

I've heard blue pills can fix that????

jlewis · « **Reply #5 on:** January 04, 2009, 07:05:09 pm »

Nassi,

Thanks for the advice and the pic.

Jeremy.

nassi · « **Reply #6 on:** January 04, 2009, 08:15:39 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by 66ROX
I've heard blue pills can fix that????

Hmmm, I thought that was a different sag. :+ Does it work on brewers droop as well ;+

Jeremy, something I forgot earlier, at the very ends of the crash pad there is a retaining bolt and in the past I have found this not actually secured allowing the crash pad to curl up at the ends. Worth a look.
cheers

Shermatt · « **Reply #7 on:** January 05, 2009, 04:11:41 am »

Nothin worse than a "sagger" :+

I got a few left hooks here and they all do it. Once they get a lil old they tend to warp a little. Best bet, get a new one if it bothers you and fit it the way you want it. However nassi has a good point about the conversion side of things.

good luck

evan · « **Reply #8 on:** January 05, 2009, 09:56:02 am »

Nassi hit the nail on the head! The natural down slope of the dash is out the window once you do a RHD conversion. The instrument cluster & glove box door no longer follow the line of the dash pad.

Evan.

xenia · « **Reply #9 on:** April 08, 2010, 12:58:18 am »

Quote

Originally posted by nassi
Hi Jeremy,
just a theory but here goes, you will notice that the instrument bezel and glove box door are taller at one end. For LHD this tall section is in the centre of the dash and when the sections of dash are cutout and swapped over as in a conversion it means the taller end of the cluster and glove compartment door are now on the outer extremes of the dash. When the crash pad is refitted it actually interferes with the cluster and glovebox door, pushing the ends upwards and giving the impression of the center sagging.
If the car was converted really well this is probably not the case but in my experience it can happen.
cheers

Nice car :) Awesome!

non member · « **Reply #10 on:** April 08, 2010, 08:17:18 am »

I had a conversation with JME, I have known Terry (formerly Total Control Products) for many years ( http://www.jmeenterprises.com/ ), the people that produce the Autometer guage dashes for early Mustangs. They produce a CNC billet guage cluster for 65'6 Mustangs & they can "flip" the program in the mill producing a mirror reversing the dash for a RHD situation.

I believe they also make a glove box lid, if not that can be copied.

jas24zzk · « **Reply #11 on:** April 09, 2010, 12:32:30 am »

BOLLOX!

on a 65/66 67/68, the centre of the dash is not cut.

The 65/66 are the easiest to do, as its almost symetrical! I don't do conversions, but i could do a 65/66 whilst drinking beer, reading ####o and chatting up your sister...they are that easy.

Look at shematt's post...the left hookers do it also. DAMM GOOD advice that appears to have been glossed over.

Its a mustang thing, you should consider it a feature :w

Cheers
Jas

non member · « **Reply #12 on:** April 09, 2010, 06:33:18 am »

Quote

Originally posted by jas24zzk
BOLLOX!

on a 65/66 67/68, the centre of the dash is not cut.

The 65/66 are the easiest to do, as its almost symetrical! I don't do conversions, but i could do a 65/66 whilst drinking beer, reading <b>[Censored]</b>o and chatting up your sister...they are that easy.

Cheers
Jas

Maybe "almost symmetrical", but on a 65/6 they are not. There is probably almost 15mm height difference between the ends.

The dash bezel/glove box lid are taller on the inner ends (when in LHD config) than they are at the outer ends & if they are converted using the base as the datum then the dash looks like it is "squinting".

You have to take that into account when setting the dash up before welding. That is what the thread is all about.

No conversion on a US built car is "easy", just that some are easier than others.

shaunp · « **Reply #13 on:** April 09, 2010, 07:56:41 am »

Most people don't do them correctly, not many move the heater controls for example, because if you do they kit the radio, unless you mod them as well. Another problem is they offen get welded up in the car or on a bench rather than in a frame/jig to keep them striaght.

scott66stang · « **Reply #14 on:** April 09, 2010, 02:55:55 pm »

Quote

Originally posted by ozbilt
Quote
Originally posted by jas24zzk
BOLLOX!

on a 65/66 67/68, the centre of the dash is not cut.

The 65/66 are the easiest to do, as its almost symetrical! I don't do conversions, but i could do a 65/66 whilst drinking beer, reading <b>[Censored]</b>o and chatting up your sister...they are that easy.

Cheers
Jas

Maybe "almost symmetrical", but on a 65/6 they are not. There is probably almost 15mm height difference between the ends.

The dash bezel/glove box lid are taller on the inner ends (when in LHD config) than they are at the outer ends & if they are converted using the base as the datum then the dash looks like it is "squinting".

You have to take that into account when setting the dash up before welding. That is what the thread is all about.

No conversion on a US built car is "easy", just that some are easier than others.

spot on Kerry , i cut mine out knowing this after talking to Mustangs West here in WA. They told me that about 15-20mm should be cut out below the radio , otherwise the dash will be out of wack. I have personally checked 66 mustangs that have had no cutting and have just swapped the cluster and glovebox around . Ones that have left the centre intact and swaped the sides over. And ones where a section is cut out below the radio and the sdes swapped , this one was the neatest. I have just clamped into position the sections on mine without the 15mm cut out and fitted the dash pad , glovebox and cluster and there is definatly 15mm that needs removing to get it to look its best.

jas24zzk · « **Reply #15 on:** April 11, 2010, 12:29:24 pm »

Yep,
they become a jigsaw to be done right. As shaunp says, they are a damm sight easier done in a frame.
I did say I don't do conversions, to be totally truthful, it should be taken that I don't chase that sort of work. I do however do the occasional dash.

the 65/66 are dead easy, try doing a 57 Chev. (and no, not utilising a 56 dash either) :_

If you remove the dash and drop it into a frame, this also permits you to do your welding from behind easily. This reduces the amount of cleanup you need to do. Some guys weld em from the front, grind the heck out em and then wonder why their welds crack :_

Cheers Jas

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Author Topic: "sagging" dash? (Read 4015 times)