67 RHD conversion so far. Xtra pics

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Author Topic: 67 RHD conversion so far. Xtra pics  (Read 48001 times)

Offline shaunp

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67 RHD conversion so far. Xtra pics
« on: August 06, 2008, 07:51:24 pm »
Couple of xtra pics of the pedal box and 1/2 done AC.























Offline shelby_mustro

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67 RHD conversion so far. Xtra pics
« Reply #1 on: August 06, 2008, 08:22:35 pm »
jees your doing very well if you have done that all your self. I would have given up ages ago if that was me :+
1965 Ford mustang coupe
hipo 4bbl 347 windsor v8
t5 5 speed manual
4 wheel power assisted brakes

Other cars
1967 mustang coupe 289 c4 red
1966 mustang convertible nightmist blue
1951 f1 chopped truck blown c4 black
1963 Xl falcon ute 200ci 3spd manual white

Offline nassi

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« Reply #2 on: August 06, 2008, 08:39:49 pm »
Good work mate.:(
66 Mustang covertible
01 XR8 ute (black)
01 XR8 ute (red)
56 F100

Offline 66ROX

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67 RHD conversion so far. Xtra pics
« Reply #3 on: August 06, 2008, 08:46:45 pm »
Looking good Shaun


ps: nice steel cap thongs.

Offline JC074

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« Reply #4 on: August 06, 2008, 10:59:32 pm »
Look awesome Shaun!
Rock on!

Offline shaunp

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67 RHD conversion so far. Xtra pics
« Reply #5 on: August 07, 2008, 10:16:39 am »
Quote
Originally posted by shelby_mustro
jees your doing very well if you have done that all your self. I would have given up ages ago if that was me :+

I had a good teacher!:(

Offline waXology

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67 RHD conversion so far. Xtra pics
« Reply #6 on: August 07, 2008, 04:08:42 pm »
Looking good mate.

Im just about to have mine started on. though one thing to note is Classic Recreations in the states is about to start mass producing RHD firewalls. I'm enquiring as to how much to get one here cause i think that would save time and money...if they fit.

Offline HEVEN67

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« Reply #7 on: August 07, 2008, 04:23:19 pm »
Its excelent!
I hope your gunna make the tops of the doors bigger!
A real credit!
A successful man is one who makes more money than his wife can spend. A successful woman is one who can find such a man.




Real muscle cars have 3 pedals. Where theres smoke theres Tyres

Offline shaunp

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67 RHD conversion so far. Xtra pics
« Reply #8 on: August 07, 2008, 05:30:57 pm »
Quote
Originally posted by waXology
Looking good mate.

Im just about to have mine started on. though one thing to note is Classic Recreations in the states is about to start mass producing RHD firewalls. I'm enquiring as to how much to get one here cause i think that would save time and money...if they fit.

Not sure it would be any easier, they will probably make a mirror image which really won't work particulary on a car with factory A/C. When you reverse the A/C all the pipes etc are in different spots. Also for a RHD pedal box I used an XB falcon, with the mustang snout welded to it just back from the brake light switch. I geuss what I'm saying is the firewall is really the easy part, the wipers, dash, drag link , A/C etc is the hard part. I'm doing the A/C now, from in the car it will be just like a LHD unit, but the pipes will come out next to the inner gaurd in the engine bay. The secret to them driving well is the drag link and the mounting of the box and idler. This car is set up so the bump steer is as good as it gets, It also means my steering wheel is higher from the seat, so it won't rub on your legs.
Anyway I can't take full credit, I've done the work sure, but I've had a good teacher, and I've driven a 67 that is done the same as mine with respect to the drag link , box position etc and I can tell you, you'd be hard pressed to drive a better one, they drive like a late model car when they are right that's for sure. I thought about the RRS rack but once I drove one done right with falcon parts, I couldn't see the value at all. I'll save the $3k for my engine!

Offline blackbox

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« Reply #9 on: August 07, 2008, 06:50:59 pm »
Thats dedication!
I admire your motorvation to the cause.
Good to see someone getting in there and making it work rather than just paying someone else (a lot of money).

James.

Offline Red71

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« Reply #10 on: August 07, 2008, 10:56:22 pm »
Shaun, looks like you are doing a great job there. Are you using a Falcon drag link or did u have the Mustang one cut and re-welded? If it is a Falcon one - what model did you use? I see you have used an XD steering box. Just make sure all the geometry is right and the steering column aligns straight with the steering box. I’ve heard of problems even when they are out by as little as 5 degrees.

Offline shaunp

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« Reply #11 on: August 08, 2008, 09:51:47 am »
Yes it's a Falcon drag link, XY. The centre holes where the tie-rods mount are the same distance as a 67 mustang, but overal it is about 23mm longer. The ends are cut, reshaped & shortened to suit, the 67 width and so it is in the correct plane when bolted to the XF variable ratio box, you'll notice how it bends back to meet the pitman arm, idler is just XY/Mustang. The drag link is x-rayed to DOT spec, it cost me $450 to weld and x-ray. The mounting points for the box, idler and the shape of the drag link, mean that now the bump steer is now pretty much as low as you can get it. So in real terms the geometry of the steering is better than factory, there won't be any issues with it. Column alignment will be ok, with the rag joint and it will be adjustable on the floor via a slotted mount plate as well.
The Brake booster, clutch master and pedal box are XB falcon, with the firewall fabricated to suit, so it all fits properly. I'm going to use XF top control arm so I can have rubber bushes, and they are also a little stronger. XF alloy calipers as well to reduce the unsprung weight a bit also.

Offline jmd1

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« Reply #12 on: September 06, 2008, 12:13:12 pm »
Shaun
You have obviously spent a lot of time down Burke Street.
Cheers JD

Offline shaunp

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« Reply #13 on: September 06, 2008, 12:21:00 pm »
Quote
Originally posted by jmd1
Shaun
You have obviously spent a lot of time down Burke Street.
Cheers JD

John is the man, couldn't have done it with out him, been a great help, couldn't speak more highly of him and his knowledge. He did the drag link for me. The way I see it is why mess with the a method that is well proven and the cars drive like a new car, even with out all the shinney RRS stuff, and you can get the bitts at supa cheap to keep it running.
 Note the dash jig Hmm!!

Offline ejmustang

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« Reply #14 on: September 06, 2008, 01:01:51 pm »
Looking great i am a bit further advanced than you but can appreciate where you are at ;z

Offline ejmustang

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« Reply #15 on: September 06, 2008, 01:10:40 pm »
Shaun you are certainly getting your advice from the best the cars he does drive like they were made RHD he is simply the best not much he doesnt know ;_

Offline warmride

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67 RHD conversion so far. Xtra pics
« Reply #16 on: September 06, 2008, 03:14:38 pm »
Nice work shaunp.  Are those Japanese work boots OH&S approved?

Offline shaunp

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« Reply #17 on: September 07, 2008, 12:59:42 pm »
Quote
Originally posted by warmride
Nice work shaunp.  Are those Japanese work boots OH&S approved?

They are in QLD in my shed!

Offline Forder

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« Reply #18 on: September 07, 2008, 01:12:25 pm »
shaunp,
Thanks for keeping us all posted.  Looking good mate

Offline Shermatt

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« Reply #19 on: January 08, 2009, 12:02:17 am »
I like this topic

Shaun, If you ever get a chance, do you think you could throw up a itemised list of everything that you purchased to do this conversion.

great work mate

any updates??

Offline shaunp

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« Reply #20 on: January 08, 2009, 08:38:28 am »
Quote
Originally posted by T-CODE KID
so hows the conversion going shaunp?

all buttoned up?

Been busy & can't bring myself to the A/C reversal yet, must get to. I don't want to fill and paint till I know the A/C fitts. I've also been making some sway bar mounts for the rear end to weld to the rails. Collecting engine parts etc. I'll get there. My bench is covered in 1/2 finished heads, once they are done I'll do the A/C. Then I'll roll the body and clean paint the under side.

Offline 66vert

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67 RHD conversion so far. Xtra pics
« Reply #21 on: January 08, 2009, 02:00:29 pm »
well done shaun looking good mate like you said john greene is the man did my convertible back in 1988 still drives straight and hard and stops on a dim. doing another makeover with wheels on my vert going to run 20'' on the back and 18'' on the front just to piss of pursist like a said i drive mine anywhere anytime.
                                                 biglou

Offline shaunp

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« Reply #22 on: January 16, 2009, 03:25:49 pm »
Quote
Originally posted by 66vert
well done shaun looking good mate like you said john greene is the man did my convertible back in 1988 still drives straight and hard and stops on a dim. doing another makeover with wheels on my vert going to run 20'' on the back and 18'' on the front just to piss of pursist like a said i drive mine anywhere anytime.
                                                 biglou

Yeah John sent me a picture of your car with the wheels on it. I've got a set of Auger Hustlers I'm going to restore for the old school look, to start with.  Gav has VK Group 3 Brock Director if you know anyone looking for one.

Offline sumo

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« Reply #23 on: February 06, 2009, 10:59:27 pm »
hey guys looking at doing this to a 67 mustang using xb power steering box and xy drag link. Was wondering where i could go to get the DOT (xray) approval on the drag link please. im in nsw

Offline shaunp

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« Reply #24 on: February 07, 2009, 01:00:18 pm »
John Green, Probe engineering Wynnum, Brisbane, he gets them X-rayed at  Industustrial imaging, Hemmant  just up the road. John's drag links only work if you mount the XF box where he does which is further back than standard. John has the design and jigs for the links for each model car, he cuts, bends, tacks, but he has another guy weld them fully, up the North coast, some guy that makes Sprint cars, I think I've met him. The Xray is the expensive part. You can just cut the extra lenght from the centre of an XY link, and mount the idler and box in mirror spots, but you can get the bump steer better than that with John's design. The XY link is about 23mm different, and the differance is in the ends not the middle but the tie rods will take up the difffernace, shape is the same a  67/68. John's are quite different in shape, firstly due the box postion and secondly so the the factory bump steer is at a minimum. If you cut them in the middle it's cheaper because there is only one xray. John's need 2 one at each end.