I will start be saying I could be wrong.
I thought in Aust the seat belt anchor point had to use a bolt with a specific thread size and diameter that then threads into a nut.
I don't pretend to be any sort of expert about either engineering or legalities. I just shared how I went about replacing the dubious lap belts in mine with three point retractables. Up to others whether they go down the same path.
Yes. The retractors need to be positioned well back so as not to compromise seat adjustment. Not only practical but an ADR requirement IIRC.
One comment, and this came from a medical opinion I heard back when I upgraded my '67 FB from factory lap belts to 3 point inertia reels.
Fixing the seatbelt to the structure below the side window - as in that youtube video - is all very well and neat, but it does mean that the seatbelt angles down off the users' shoulders to that point. Meaning that in an impact the user's skeletal system is possibly pulled downwards not just restrained. Which can't be good.
Hence I used the roof rail for the 3rd fixing, in the very same location as Ford did themselves when they installed 3-point belts in the '68 cars.
My 2c worth anyway.
I have also read that but I've also read that the "B pillar" is way stronger than the roof in these old cars. Modern cars tend to have higher waist lines than old Mustangs but some modern convertibles must have the top mount under the window line. My partner had a VW Eos, hard top convertible, for many years. She's short enough that the top mount was above her shoulder but when I drove it the top mount was below my shoulder line. Someone will be able to tell us what the go is with current Gen 6 Mustang convertible seat belts.
I also note that four or more point racing harnesses typically have the over the shoulder straps secured behind the driver and below the shoulder line.
I will start be saying I could be wrong.
I thought in Aust the seat belt anchor point had to use a bolt with a specific thread size and diameter that then threads into a nut.
See above. The Aussie belts had the same diameter hole as the CJ stud, don't know about the thread pitch. If you were keen you could easily make up a plate and weld a captive nut to it and use the bolt that came with the local belt. I actually thought about doing this when I realised the plastic cover wouldn't fit but decided my welding wasn't really something I wanted to rely on for something like seat belts.
Hey Geoff,
Great video!
Your Quote; Bit psychologically daunting drilling holes in your car.
Yes, I was a bit surprised seeing that big drill going through, could have damaged things and paint work!
I would make a spigot and start with a smaller drill, then get bigger to suit drilled from outside the car!
Cheers Phil
Too right Phil! That's what I did, also taped up the drill site