Bought a dog of a pony

[mustang_talk]

Hey Robbie, can't be much assistance with your engine issues. Just want to wish you all the best with your health.
Cheers
George

[robbie]

thanks George, appreciate it.

[GLENN 70]

Ok but they can't be 302c open chamber heads . If they are 302c heads they are closed chamber .  Open chamber will be 351c heads .  It needs to be stripped and find out what s wrong with it ,sorry to say . 

[unilec5544]

Sorry to hear about your health problems and hope you are on the road to recovery. As you mentioned earlier in your post it may be a better option to buy a 302 roller motor, such as this one on Ebay and hopefully just swop over parts from your current motor. Either way best of luck to you.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-302-Windsor-V8-Suit-Xr-Xt-Xw-Xy-Hot-Rod-Rollar-Cam-Gc-Falcon-Gt-Mustang-/222484069506?hash=item33cd157c82:g:QVsAAOSwrddY8ZsJ&rmvSB=true

[robbie]

could be an option, certainly cheap enough! I was looking for something that puts out 450+hp though, seeing as that's what was in my car before it all went to poop.

[barnett468]

could be an option, certainly cheap enough! I was looking for something that puts out 450+hp though, seeing as that's what was in my car before it all went to poop.

there is absolutely zero description of what that engine has . if one likes taking huge gambles, they should give it a try.

i can assure you with 110% certainty that if you take the advice that is offered to you on your thread, you will get out of this in the best and most cost effective way . all of us here whom know engines extremely well typically agree on most things in the end, therefore, as you progress through this, we will all come to a very similar, if not identical consensus.

Also, do NOT get caught up in the horsepower number trap . Just tell us what you want the engine to do and we can offer suggestions as to what we think the best way for you to get there is . you can get big hp from a small cube high revving engine or a big cube low revving engine etc . one of the most important things is head flow and air velocity and the heads are the single biggest expense.

 

[Dwayne]

Could just put a rebuilt motor in the car and enjoy driving it while you get through your treatment. Just picture yourself cruising along and letting all your worries disappear for a while.

Then, build your big angry motor as a reward when you beat the cancer.

[unilec5544]

Could just put a rebuilt motor in the car and enjoy driving it while you get through your treatment. Just picture yourself cruising along and letting all your worries disappear for a while.

Then, build your big angry motor as a reward when you beat the cancer.

That is exactly what I was eluding to and I was definitely not saying he should buy the motor I posted in the link, merely just using that as an example of maybe an option till he has the time to tear down his existing motor.

[MStang67]

Geee.... I was looking at that same car in Dec 2014 from Bosskraft website and according to the specs at that time it seemed to be a bullet proof car!! But I was looking for a RHD car so did not proceed!!

Not sure what could have happen to that engine since then.....the paint job itself was worth a lot + TCP coil over suspensions etc!! Very very nice car!
http://www.bosskraft.com/67-restomod-coupe.html

Hope you can sort out the engine problem! I am sure Sean would be able to help you as he has always been very helpful and responsive!



Cheers,

[shaunp]

Give Ian a call at Fataz competition engines in Brisbane tell Shaun sent you. He'll build you what ever you need. or fix the old one. He sends engine all over the country for Race cars.

[robbie]

thanks everyone, working out a plan over the weekend. I think we'll start with getting the heads off, assess where the crack (if any) is, and go from there. I'd like to keep the existing block as the car has been fully engineered and noise/emissions tested with that motor, so it makes sense to try and keep it if it's possible.

[GLENN 70]

Who knows what's wrong . I haven't seen Cleveland heads cracked before unless they had a big port job but you never know .  Split in a bore ,maybe .  Intake leaking could be the problem    Yes heads off and have a good look around and if nothing is visible send the heads out for a pressure test .

[shaunp]

thanks everyone, working out a plan over the weekend. I think we'll start with getting the heads off, assess where the crack (if any) is, and go from there. I'd like to keep the existing block as the car has been fully engineered and noise/emissions tested with that motor, so it makes sense to try and keep it if it's possible.

They may not be cracked if its a front or back cylinder getting wet its likely still the intake leaking . The block is irrelevant for noise and emissions

[GLENN 70]

I'm leaning on the intake leaking ,what do you think Shaun ?  Emissions on a 50 year old car and engine ,don't worry about that .

[shaunp]

I'm leaning on the intake leaking ,what do you think Shaun ?  Emissions on a 50 year old car and engine ,don't worry about that .

Agree unless the heads are really ported and there is a porous spot

[Hak]

Im not sure were your at with this, if you going for a create motor or rebuilding

Out of past experience if you go with a create motor, and something is wrong, your mechanic the engine installer is going to have a field day with labour charges. 

If I wasn't hands on or couldn't be hands on I would think finding a engine builder who will remove and install your engine would be a better option as if he stuffs up his pulling the motor out at his cost make sure the engine build is at a fixed quote

while every one is playing inspector clueso as to what your engine contains its not getting your car running. Have you spoken to the bloke you bought it off

[robbie]

Have you spoken to the bloke you bought it off

have tried, he won't return my calls, basically done a runner I think.

Latest is that I'm speaking to a guy this afternoon who I hope can help do as you say, get the motor out, pull the heads off, fix and/or replace them as needs be and hope that it is as someone further up this thread suggested, that it's simply a head gasket or a poor intake seal - which I know for a fact is highly possible given what I've seen with my own eyes.

[shaunp]

I'm leaning on the intake leaking ,what do you think Shaun ?  Emissions on a 50 year old car and engine ,don't worry about that .

Agree unless the heads are really ported and there is a porous spot

[mcarnage59]

have tried, he won't return my calls, basically done a runner I think.

Latest is that I'm speaking to a guy this afternoon who I hope can help do as you say, get the motor out, pull the heads off, fix and/or replace them as needs be and hope that it is as someone further up this thread suggested, that it's simply a head gasket or a poor intake seal - which I know for a fact is highly possible given what I've seen with my own eyes.

Man it just shows how much of a raffle buying these old cars is for the untrained punter. I think many have stories similar to yours although from all the photo's members have posted of your car the build looked spot on. Almost makes you wonder if that engine is the same as the one that was in it when it was owned by the original restorer. Anyway keep your spirits up!! Your health is way more important. There is lots to learn from people on this forum and they will provide you with as much or as little guidance as you want. All the novices like me can only offer our moral support. Chin up you will be cruising in no time.

[ants]

I'd pull the spark plugs first and see which one/ones are wet. If it's either of the front plugs it may still only be poor sealing of the manifold. You need to get on top of this quickly before the water sits in the cylinders to long and starts to cause rust...hopefully it hasn't happened already. If you find which cylinder has water but can't get anyone to start working on the problem straight away, at least drain the water and spray WD40 or something similar in to the cylinders. This might save the bottom end.

[robbie]

So...finally got the engine out and heads off. Water issue was a leaking head gasket after all it seems. That's the good news. The less good news is there is a lot of wear and tear in bearings, crank, pushrods, rockers etc etc that the motor needs a complete refresh. The block and heads themselves were in a lot better knick than I was expecting, everything is just a bit tired.

Block will be pressure tested (one cylinder has what may or may not be a crack), decked and honed if need be, new crankshaft and whatever else needs updating, hoping to have it back on the road in a few weeks. The rebuilder I'm dealing with now (not the first bloke who was largely clueless, did nothing yet still saw fit to send me a bill) is a ford nut and seems to know what he's talking about, which is a big relief. He was very patient and walked me through all the engine parts that need updating and showed why.

On the plus side in a few weeks I'll finally have my car back with a fresh new engine for the most part. Can't wait! Thanks to everyone here who offered advice and helped me track down people who knew the car for more info etc.

[Fitzy1980]

Was this even the same engine that was originally in the car at the time of sale ?

Pretty ordinary to sell a car knowing full well the engine is cactus..

[robbie]

yes mate it's definitely the same motor. And yeah I agree, total dog act from the guy I bought it off (disclaimer: not the guy who built the car). The clown I bought it off will get his karma one day I'm sure.

[barnett468]

i posted this on another site . look at these areas as well . some of them dont apply to you but many do like the zero deck and cometic head gaskets etc.

compression is king and running a close quench/squish will reduce the potential for detonation thereby allowing you to run more compression

zero deck the block

i would also use .035" thick cometic gaskets but they are pricey.

drill a .020" hole in both front cam oil galley plugs

use a cloyes true roller timing chain or red rollmaster

use a cheap chinese hi po damper

get it balanced.

msd anti vibration ignition coil.

plug the distributor vacuum advance.

arp or similar good oil pump drive

good 3 row radiator with a high density core.

1717p flex a lite mechanical fan with shroud or oem electric fans with a fan controller.

high flow milodon 180 degree t stat.

14 - 16 lb rad cap.

crane anti pump lifters or crower cool face cam oiler lifters if cam is a flat tappet type.

remflex exhaust gaskets

magnaflow mufflers

1/2 grooved main bearings.

fel pro steel core laminate intake gaskets.

[robbie]

thanks barnett - got a fair chunk of that list already covered, which is good as we're on the same track ;) Engine was running 10.5:1 before hand, and will remain that way with the new build as well.