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TIMING POINTER
If you can install the pointer mounting screw/bolt without removing the lower rad hose, then leave it on.
There are two ways to make this . The first option might be slightly hard to see but you will see it and it will work.
OPTION 1
1. take a piece of thin coat hanger or solid copper wire etc and cut it around 6 inches long.
2. take some needle nose pliers and make the smallest loop you possibly can in one end.
3. cut it so it is 10 mm to 11 mm long from the center of the hole to the very tip of the wire.
4. paint only around 2 mm of the tip with white paint or liquid white out.
5. put a flat washer in the bolt or screw and then the pointer then screw this into the only hole it will fit into with the end of the pointer to the right of the bolt hole as you face the front of the engine.
6. place it so the tip is only around 3 mm above the damper . no it will not move and hit the damper.
6. tighten the screw moderately tight . if the screw bottoms out, simply add a couple washers.
OPTION 2
1. take a piece of thin coat hanger or solid copper wire etc and cut it around 6 inches long.
2. take some needle nose pliers and make the smallest loop you possibly can in one end.
3. cut it so it is 22 mm long from the center of the hole to the very tip of the wire.
4. measure 10 mm to 11 mm from the center of the hole and put a mark there.
5. if you have a vice, clamp the end pith the loop into a vice so that the mark is even with the top of the jaws . if you dont have one, grab it with vice grips etc at the mark.
6. hammer the wire over so it is 90 degrees to the vice or vice grips.
7. remove the wire and bend it just a tiny, tiny, tiny bit more so it is maybe 95 degrees.
5. put a flat washer in the bolt or screw and then the pointer then screw this into the only hole it will fit into with the end of the pointer to the right of the bolt hole as you face the front of the engine.
6. place it so the tip is only around 3 mm above the damper . no it will not move and hit the damper.
7. tighten the screw moderately tight . if the screw bottoms out, simply add a couple washers.
8. after the screw is tight, you will see that the end of the pointer is not exactly 90 degrees to the damper . simply take some needle nose pliers and grab the wire next to the mounting pad and bend it until the tip is 90 degrees . do NOT bend the tip . AFTER you do this you will see exactly why i had you do it this way and you wont have 20 questions to ask me.
DAMPER MARKS
If you left the rad hose on, simply rotate the engine so you can get to the damper marks to paint them . There may be good access from under the car.
1. Put white out on the 14 degree btdc mark and extend the color beyond the end of the line to the end of the damper, then put a 0 to the right of it as you face the engine . This way you will be able to see it AND know what it represents.
2. Make the same line on the 24 degree btdc mark and put one SMALL dot or the number 1 or 10 immediately to the right of it.
3. Do the same thing at 34 but use 2 dots running parallel to the line or the number 2 or 20.
4. Do the same at 44 but use 3 dots parallel to the line or the number 3 or 30.
5. Do the same thing at 54 but use 4 dots parallel to the line or the number 4 or 40.
Take a photo and post it before you go any further.
This is what OPTION 2 pointer should look like except the whole thing should not be white, just the part that comes over the damper should be white.
This is what the line on the distributor should look like.
Where is the distributor hold down clamp?
Distributor hold down clamp.