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FITZY READ THIS CAREFULLY AND ASK ANY QUESTIONS YOU HAVE BEFORE YOU BEGIN
INTAKE INSTALLATION USING FEL-PRO 1262S3 GASKETS
BOLTS
I use grade 8 bolts, grade 8 flat washers and grade 8 lock washers.
If you want it fancy looking, buy ARP bolts or chrome, black or stainless allen/socket head bolts and AN style flat washers.
SEALER TYPE
Permatex Ultra Grey High Torque Gasket Maker and make sure you buy enough . Small bottle of flammable contact cement/glue.
CLEANING
Sealers will not stick to oil or dirt . This includes the oil from your hands . Improperly cleaned surfaces are the number 1 cause of intakes leaking.
Clean the BEJESUS out of all the sealing surfaces with paper towels and flammable brake cleaner or lacquer thinner . Also Clean the outside and inside of the block for 1" down from the top of the end seal area . This will allow the sealer to stick to these areas when it gets smushed out by the pressure from the intake.
ALL colored spots must be removed from the aluminum because they are old sealer . Use a brass or steel toothbrush to do that with . You can and maybe should brush all the sealing surface due to the builder using clear silicone which can be hard to see.
The brushing might create some dust or some of the wires on the brush may fall off during brushing, therefore, place a couple sheets of regular newspaper in the intake valley and push the edges under the cylinder head . Wad up a piece of paper towel and shove it into the intake ports . Vacuum the ports BEFORE removing the paper towel . Fold the edges of the newspaper inward before removing it to prevent and debris it caught from falling into the valley.
Clean the old sealer out from between the head and the block . You might need to use maybe a .020" thick feeler gauge to get between there . Try to locate the head gasket hiding in there . It may have some sealer that needs to be removed so when you squeeze some sealer between the head and the block, it should flow in far enough to contact the head gasket . If it does not, you will have a leak.
Use the long nozzle on a can of flammable brake cleaner to spray between the head and the block to try and remove any oil . See if you can wrap a piece of paper towel around the .020" feeler gauge and ut some cleaner on it then push it into that gap to clean it better.
Use the brush on the intake manifold also.
After all the above is done, clean the bejesus out of it all with paper towels and cleaner again.
TEST FITTING GASKETS TO HEADS
Lay the gaskets on the heads with the pre-made silicone bead facing the intake manifold, not the head . The straight edge of the gasket goes up. towards the valve cover.
Loosely install the 4 studs in each corner of the heads.
The cut out for the water ports is larger than the ports so use a pointed felt pen and outline the gasket hole onto the head.
Take a photo of one of the gaskets laying on the head.
Remove the 4 studs in each corner of the heads.
Hold one gasket with the pre-made silicone bead side on the intake manifolds to make sure the cut outs for the water ports do not extend beyond the intake which would cause a leak.
SEALING GASKETS TO HEADS
Do one head at a time.
Apply around around a 12 mm wide coating of contact glue around the two inner intake ports on only ONE of the heads .
Apply a 12 mm wide coat of glue on the side of the outer ports that face the inner ports.
Apply glue to the top and bottom of the outer ports but do NOT extend it all the way to where the radius is on the ports . In other words, only put in on 3/4 of the port . This means you are only applying sealer 3/4 of the way around the port . Go up to, but not beyond, any felt pen lines around the ports . The reason for this is because there will be silicone sealer on the other side of these ports around the water jacket, and you do not want to put silicone sealer over contact glue because it won't stick well.
Apply glue in the same location on the side of the gasket that will face the head.
Put a 2 mm thick by 6 mm wide layer of Permatex around the water port on the same head . This can be done by putting around a 3 mm wide bead around 3 mm to the outside of the felt pen line around the port, then flattening it out slightly with your finger . You can also remove the plastic nozzle from the tube it you are using it then just place the nozzle close to the head and squeeze it out as you go along . The sealer will not be smooth but as long as there are no super thin or super thick spots it will be fine.
You can also use the plastic nozzle and put around a 3 mm wide bead around 3 mm to the outside of the port or any felt pen line round it . The bead will flatten out once the intake is installed.
Locate the head gasket hiding between the head and the block and squeeze some sealer into the gap so the sealer will seal against the end of the gasket . Make a seal around 30 mm long to try to insure it won't leak there.
Do NOT put silicone on the gasket on the side that goes to the head.
Lightly lay the gasket on the head in the proper location . If the gasket is not in exactly the right location, lift it off then re-position it, do NOT try to slide it.
Once properly positioned, press down on the inner intake ports only to make them stick to the head . Do NOT press on the water port.
Repeat the exact same process on the other head and gasket as quickly as you can.
With the gaskets installed, put a thin layer of Permatex around the water and intake ports on the side of the gasket that faces the intake.
SEALING THE ENDS OF THE INTAKE
Put a 6 mm tall bead of Permatex on the rear of the block where the cork end seals would normally go . Extend it up onto the intake gasket by around 3 mm . See photo below.
Do the same to the front.
Put around a 2 mm thick bead on the intake where the cork seals would go . The purpose for this is to insure there is enough silicone to seal because if you try to make a bead much higher on the block than 6 mm, it may just flatten out under its own weight which might leave a gap, and as you now know, gaps in the silicone are "undesireable".
INSTALLING INTAKE
Install the 4 studs in each corner of the heads.
Ok, here comes the "fun" part . Install your hernia belt then simply GENTLY install the intake EVENLY . Do NOT lift it up after it is down.
INSTALLING INTAKE BOLTS
Use the bolt tightening sequence shown below for every step and use the torque wrench on the bolts you can get to..
Install the bolts by a few threads.
Install the four nuts on the center studs.
Tighten the fasteners to 10 lbs . When you get to a nut, just make it barely slightly tight/snug . Do not tighten the crap out of it.
After you reach the last fastener, start at the beginning of the sequence again and tighten to 16 lbs . When you get to a nut, just make it barely slightly tight/snug . Do not tighten the crap out of it . When you start this second tightening process, you will notice that the first few bolts are fairly loose . Do NOT worry bout it.
After you reach the last fastener, start at the beginning of the sequence again and tighten to 22 lbs . When you get to a nut, make it fairly tight this time but don't tighten the crap out of it.
After you reach the last fastener, start at the beginning of the sequence again and tighten to 22 lbs . When you get to a nut, make it fairly tight this time but don't tighten the crap out of it.
Let dry for at least 12 hours before use and before adding coolant . If you do not let it dry this long, you may be very, very, displeased at the results.
After the engine has run for a total of 30 minutes [if it ever does], tighten the fasteners to 22 lbs again because they are sometimes slightly loose after the first heat cycle . When you get to a nut, make it fairly tight this time but don't tighten the crap out of it . You will not have to tighten them again...that is unless you have to do this a THIRD time.
This is about what the bead on the ends of the block should look like . Also notice how it goes onto the intake gasket a little.