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Ok, lets have fun . I hope you bought the exact sealers i told you to.
i dont even know how to explain this easily but if you f it up, you will have a big oil leak so hopefully someone else will have a better idea.
read this a few times before proceeding . it should take YOU around 1 hour to do.
If you work too slowly, the silicone will dry and you will have leaks.
CAREFULLY install the cover . you need to have it raised around 6 mm above the oil pan so the gasket does not drag on the block . once it is lightly against the block, push the cover down lightly onto the block . this is a practice run for the final assembly which will give you a feel for what you need to do.
put assembly oil on the end of the crank and the crank keyway after you pour oil on the chain.
clean the crap out of the pan and timing cover gasket surface with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner or mek.
use a q-tip to clean the tiny recessed channels in the timing cover where the curved part meets the flat part . this is where the tiny ends of the rubber seal push into . you might need a tiny screwdriver to dig out any old sealer . you can scratch the crap out of all these surfaces all you want.
install one end of the rubber seal into that slot then carefully push around 1/2 of the seal into the cover . there is a tiny lip on each side of the rubber seal that you may need to push into the slot with a small screw driver but be careful not to cut it.
now take the short cork gasket and insert the tiny tab on the end of it into the formed channel in the end on the rubber seal . this is how this needs to end up before you install the timing cover.
make sure the bolt hole in the cork lines up with the bolt hole in the cover and that the end of the cork gasket is flush with the end of the timing cover . if it is too long, cut it square and flush with a sharp razor blade.
you can also hold the cork gasket in place then draw the outline of the cover on the gasket then remove the gasket and cut just outside the line with a pair of scissors so it doesn't look so retarded which is what i do.
remove the seal and gasket.
lay the big timing cover gasket on a piece of cardboard with the side that glues to the block facing you.
quickly put a THIN bead of silicone on the block where that gasket goes then flatten/smooth it out with your finger.
put a tiny blob at the junction/corner where the oil pan meets the block.
put silicone on the one side of the gasket that is on the cardboard and smooth it lightly with your finger.
install the gasket and line it up with the bolt holes and press it into place with light pressure.
quickly put a thin layer of gaska-cinch on the timing cover where the cork gasket will lay but do NOT extend the sealer to the end of the cover or to the channel that the rubber seal pushes into . leave around 6 mm in both areas/ends clean with no glue.
quickly put a thin bead of silicone on the curved part where the rubber seal goes.
quickly squeeze a TINY amount of sealer into the channels that the end of the rubber seal pushes into.
quickly put a tiny blob on the flat part of the cover that the cork gasket mounts to right next to the tiny slot the end of the rubber seal pushes into . this will seal the extension on the seal to the cover.
it is ok if the silcone touches the gaska-cinch as these two need to overlap after the gasket is installed and the silicone squishes around.
quickly install the rubber seal.
it may be a little long . if so just move it around so the ends fit properly . it is ok if it bulges slightly in the center . it will keep trying to pop out of the channel because of the silicone . as long as the ends are in place, the rest will push back into place when you install it.
put a tiny blob of silicone in the channel in the end of the seal where the tab on the end of the cork gasket will lay.
put a tiny blob of silicone on the cover at the other end of where the cork gasket will be . when you install the cork gasket the silicone will smush and a little will flow into the area where the glue is.
quickly put a thin layer of gaska-cinch on the side of the cork gasket that glues to the timing cover but leave it 8 mm short of the ends just like you did on the oil pan.
wait 2 minutes then lightly place the cork gasket onto the timing cover and line it up with the bolt hole and so that the end is flush with the end of the timing cover.
put around a 2 mm thick layer of silicone all over the flat area of the oil pan and on the curved lip on the front of the pan.
put a thin layer of silicone on the big gasket on the block and back of the timing cover and end of the cork gasket.
CAREFULLY install the cover . you need to have it raised around 6 mm above the oil pan so the gasket does not drag on the block . once it is lightly against the block, push the cover down lightly onto the block.
install 2 screws into each side of the cover and make them lightly finger tight.
install the oil pan screws then tighten them moderately tight/snug with a socket and extension but don't use a ratchet.
after tightening them, tighten them again because they will loosen as the gasket squishes.
install the remaining bolts in the front of the cover then torque them to spec.
tighten the oil pan bolts properly with a ratchet.
if you have a bunch of washers or large bolts, put them on the bolts that hold the water pump on and install and tighten those bolts also . if you don't, its not a problem.
MARKING CRANK DAMPER
Get a cloth tape measure.
starting at the TDC mark, wrap it all the way around the damper to measure the od.
place 4 perfectly even;y spaced marks on it starting at TDC.
install the damper . put oil on the damper bolt and torque it to spec.
do the exact same thing to the side of the gaskets that will glue to the cover.
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