5.0L SBF Head Stud kit

[MY6T5PONY]

Hi All,, i'm in the process of rebuilding my 347 stroker and I have a 5.0L hydraulic roller block with Edelbrock heads and I'm not sure which head studs to purchase, the ARP website is a little confusing, any advice or part number would be greatly appreciated..

[trav68]

154-4201 should do the trick. Your block should unless modified have 7/16" UNC threads.

Which heads are you using you will most likely require reducer bushes as most heads have 1/2" holes to also suit 351 blocks which use 1/2" UNC head bolts.

Was your block torque plate honed out of interest ? I would prob just use entry level ARP head bolts rather than studs.

[trav68]

If you want to use normal ARP bolts ARP 154-3601 and if required Edelbrock Reducer Bushes ED 9680. They are about $80 each and Precision International keep stock of both items.

Regards,
Trav

[boofhead]

Trav is right -  7/16 studs and use stepped bushes for 1/2 head bolt holes (which most heads are supplied with now). For a performance build I always use studs in the mains (absolutely every time) and studs in my own engines for the heads. Better clamping and stability while saving the threads in the block.

If you do decided to use head bolts you can use the 7/16 bolts with the stepped bushes or you can get a stepped head bolt where it has a 7/16 thread while toward the head it steps up to a half inch shaft.

Torque down to 80ftlb (in three steps) when using the ARP fasteners using molly on frictional surfaces. Also, as your using a later 302 block you will need to use thread sealer (instead of molly) on the threads going into the block for the outer (eg short) head fasteners. If your using head studs no molly on the head side threads is needed though thread sealer on short bolts for late blocks is still needed.

[shaunp]

You should also have it torque plate honed with the same torque on the plate, as they extra torque on the ARP studs "in theory" can distort the block.

[MY6T5PONY]

Gents, thank you very much, great help, cheers...

[trav68]

That is why I was thinking the standard ARP bolts would be the go for this build...

[shaunp]

That is why I was thinking the standard ARP bolts would be the go for this build...

In real terms any time you use ARP bolts they suggest that they can change the shape of the block, due to extra torque you do them up to. Mains, particularly same as if you fit a main girdle etc, the tunnel should be bored, forget honing tunnels the hone tends to wander at the far end and you are making the tunnel bigger which is bad. When they Tunnel bore a block they take about 4 thou off the caps, this gives them enough to get a total fresh bore then a real quick hone. This is the reason why you torque hone in the first place as pulling the head down even with stock bolts can change the shape of the cylinders. 4.2 Jag engines have head stud that go all the way down to the bottom of the water jacket to avoid distorting cylinders when torquing the head.

[MY6T5PONY]

thanks for the info Gent's,, I have found that the previous owner had fitted 1/2 inch bolts, looks like he had the screw holes re-tapped as my block is a 98 5.0L EFI SBF,, so I purchased 351 W 1/2 inch head stud kit which I'm going to install soon..

[boofhead]

Not a common mod for a stock block but it is sometimes done. Remember the final torque for 1/2 ARP bolts are 100 - 110flbs.

[MY6T5PONY]

thanks Boofhead,,, I'm using ARP studs and I'm going to apply GM sealer to the threads that go into the block, so is this still the case 100 flbs ??

[boofhead]

The short studs are the only ones that on a 302 roller block would require the thread sealer. Now since your engine has been drilled I would check the top ones as well to see if it was needed. I guess you loose nothing but simply using the sealer on all studs.

The 100 ftlbs torque is required as your now running 1/2" bolts. The big advantage studs is the load does not get placed on the threads in the block as they are lightly screwed in (with sealer) then the nuts (and washer surfaces with molly lube) take the load when torqueing down the heads - provides a much more even pressure with no / little change of head threads being worn. The only disadvantage is the stud heads can cause fitment issues (more like it makes it more fiddly) with the install of headers.
 

[trav68]

Same treatment to all threads in the bolt group (i.e cylinder head in this case) appeals to my engineering brain....

[shaunp]

If you don't want to use studs you can buy stepped bolts as well which then means you use normal 351 washers rather the the spigot type washers

[trav68]

Shaunp - Someone has already tapped the block upto 1/2" UNC. Your suggestion works for the stock 7/16" block threads (unless I misinterpreted something).

[boofhead]

The block has been tapped for 1/2 inch head bolt threads.