What's a rust pile basket case 67 fastback project worth these days?

[mungus]

Bidding on a U.S. 1967 fastback 289 manual at present. As the base for a complete restomod project.

It's as one would expect, (rusted out and not running) but it is complete and the warranty plate numbers check out, so she may be fairly original.

Having never bought one before and knowing it's not that easy to find a complete 67/68 fastback, what is something like this worth these days?

$5K USD?
$10K?
More?

[mwizz]

Are there any pics you can put up or a link to some?

[GLENN 70]

Is it the red one? . A rusted out pig is only  worth what some one is willing to pay . If its got nothing worth anything on it its only value is its vin number and what price can you put on that   

[mungus]

Yes it's the red one and I agree.
However if that's what you have to pay to get a fastback to start on then...
I'm not winning the auction at present.
Price seemed too rich for a pile of rust to me.

[BAC]

Yes it's the red one and I agree.

Shite! Exactly what parts of that 'car' (I use the term loosely) were you planning on using???

If you were prepared to take on that heap of rust, here's another idea for you: why not buy a coupe and do a fastback conversion on it?  You're obviously not too fussed about the provenance of the car and the donor car would be way cheaper (<$10K) with plenty both here and stateside to choose from.

[mustang_talk]

There appear to be afew dedicated websites to the topic. For example,

https://www.hagerty.com/price-guide/1967-Ford-Mustang
https://au.answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20110121125121AACL01A

http://askville.amazon.com/1967-Mustang-worth/AnswerViewer.do?requestId=5800589
This ones a good one...

http://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/price_guide_ford.htm

[mungus]

Shite! Exactly what parts of that 'car' (I use the term loosely) were you planning on using???
If you were prepared to take on that heap of rust, here's another idea for you: why not buy a coupe and do a fastback conversion on it?  You're obviously not too fussed about the provenance of the car and the donor car would be way cheaper (<$10K) with plenty both here and stateside to choose from.

Yes I had already thought of that as there is an S code coupe project for sale in NSW now.
However The fastback conversion kits I've seen are about 4K USD, leaving me only $2,600 USD (based on the highest bid for that pile of pooh so far), to find a "good" coupe to base it on. So that idea is a non starter really.

That one is a pile indeed, and as such I may not end up buying it, but I in case I do I also look at it another way;

1. I'm a fussy restorer and tend to replace anything dodgy, so a half decent car for say $15K vs. a dung pile for $7K makes no difference to me. I'll be replacing any imperfect panels regardless. In fact I'm probably better off as I'll be building something largely new, that is a known quantity vs. buying something that looks OK but maybe full of bondo. (I've been caught that way before). All my vintage restos get sandblasted and rotisseried, so I find and fix anything bodywise.   

2. Whilst I am building a non concourse car (fun car / movie car), I would prefer it was an original fastback, V8, manual. That red one is all of the above. I'll keep the 289 and manual box, and other OEM parts I upgrade, cleaned, preserved and bagged, so it can be put back to OEM later if desired. That preserves the value etc.

3. The parts cost of new panels I've estimated at around $4-5K USD plus shipping (ex Mustang Depot, still looking for other supplier options), and I do my own basic body work, so cost wise theres not much difference over buying a better body.

4. Its available, and fastbacks (especially like I want with a V8 / Manual) aren't easy to find.

 

So yes I agree its a pile, but I've learnt over a few projects to look beyond that. Time will tell! 4 days to go. 

[SXTY8]

   Whilst I am building a non concourse car (fun car / movie car), I would prefer it was an original fastback, V8, manual. That red one is all of the above. I'll keep the 289 and manual box, and other OEM parts I upgrade, cleaned, preserved and bagged, so it can be put back to OEM later if desired. That preserves the value etc.

IMHO I don't think an A code 3 speed has much value compared to other models.
I would much rather own and drive one with a nice stroked crate motor with a 5 or 6 speed box behind it.
Discs all round and power rack and pinion would make a enjoyable driver.

[68Coupe]

You can get this '68 fasty for $10,000 - not sure you can classify it as a roller though. 

http://classiccars.com/listings/view/553437/1968-ford-mustang-for-sale-in-houston-texas-77044

[mungus]

Sorry sxty8 but I guess you haven't read the other thread I'm running about the same car.
Fair enough; the car will be a Bullit replica, with a mildly worked 390 and a tremec TKO, RRS running gear, etc. I'd just prefer that the car came as a V8 manual rather than a 6 auto etc.

[mungus]

You can get this '68 fasty for $10,000 - not sure you can classify it as a roller though. 
http://classiccars.com/listings/view/553437/1968-ford-mustang-for-sale-in-houston-texas-77044

Thanks Andrew. Yup seen that one a few days back. Not a roller and lots of bits missing, so I don't think it's worth much more than the one I'm bidding on.
However it is an option if they deal on it. (It is a dealer flogging it).

[67fasty.sm]

just dont forget that every $10k us you can add an aprox $3k to make it aus dollars , factor in shipping and before you know it you have a $15 to $16k car that is unless you can do all the work yourself is going cost you $40 to $50k to finish .
 there are some nice fastbacks ready to drive around those prices right here in oz.
I say this as i did what you want to do i was lucky got my when dollar was on parity still cost $12k aus by the time was in my shed , i am in for $30k all up so far (its all but finished now) but have done all the work myself with my mate outside of motor and trans rebuild .
if i had to pay someone to do the amount of panel replacement and paint would have cost me easy $30k alone not trying to be a smart A just a heads up when you do it that way.
regards shane

[nhmustang]

Thanks Andrew. Yup seen that one a few days back. Not a roller and lots of bits missing, so I don't think it's worth much more than the one I'm bidding on.
However it is an option if they deal on it. (It is a dealer flogging it).

I would suggest you avoid this fastback. A lot more trouble in that car than the photos show.

[teacherspet]

If you want a pile of crap, contact my "mate" Ron Miller in California. He is the ultimate turd polisher! 

[cap70]

if you are going end up spending over 10k why not buy a brand new dynacorn shell ?

[mungus]

if you are going end up spending over 10k why not buy a brand new dynacorn shell ?

That options been done to death on another thread. They are nice I yes I considered buying one, however in the end I think its best not to, for 2 reasons;

1. No ID with a Dynacorn shell, you are effectively building a kit car. I need a genuine Mustang to start with. It also have no interest in going through modern ADR's. Will bugger the classic feel I'm going for. If you do a dodgy (Dynacorn shell with and old warranty plate from a wrecker), there's always a risk you'll get done.

2. Cost - a new RHD Dynacorn shell landed in OZ runs about $27K AUD. And I can do lots of panel replacements and fit a RHD kit (myself) for that and still have change.

[mungus]

just dont forget that every $10k us you can add an aprox $3k to make it aus dollars , factor in shipping and before you know it you have a $15 to $16k car that is unless you can do all the work yourself is going cost you $40 to $50k to finish .
 there are some nice fastbacks ready to drive around those prices right here in oz.
I say this as i did what you want to do i was lucky got my when dollar was on parity still cost $12k aus by the time was in my shed , i am in for $30k all up so far (its all but finished now) but have done all the work myself with my mate outside of motor and trans rebuild .
if i had to pay someone to do the amount of panel replacement and paint would have cost me easy $30k alone not trying to be a smart A just a heads up when you do it that way.
regards shane

Thanks Shane. I do all my own work and the locally available cars you speak of are not what I want. I would end up at minimum stripping and repainting them, swapping motors and wheels etc. So not a cheap option in the end. Appreciate the view though.

[67FBGT]

I don't understand why you have two threads going on what is essentially the same topic?

Why would you want to buy a rust pile to start with? Bodywork takes a lot of time, no matter who does it, & the more metal that needs replacement the less 'original classic' the car is. In the long run I doubt if you'll save much if any money going down that route. And you'll just create a lot of work & pain for yourself & the project will drag out for years to come.
And you can be pretty certain that any rust pile will also have rusted out or buggered parts on it that you won't be able to sell on.

[mungus]

One thread was asking the prices paid for such things, but got pulled into technical stuff bu some posters, the other was asking about the legalities of new dynacorn bodies vs rebuilds.

[junior]

Bidding on a U.S. 1967 fastback 289 manual at present. As the base for a complete restomod project.

It's as one would expect, (rusted out and not running) but it is complete and the warranty plate numbers check out, so she may be fairly original.

Having never bought one before and knowing it's not that easy to find a complete 67/68 fastback, what is something like this worth these days?

$5K USD?
$10K?
More?

Hey mate,

From experience you always tend to get a little bit extra doing the purchase online without seeing the car (and by extra I mean rot/ rust and dings).  I do see your point of view though: If you're going to replace almost everything what does it matter if you start with something that's a shitter!

If you are doing the work yourself and you are confident in your metal work abilities you will come out on top by putting in the hard yards and end up with something you wanted exactly/ know everything about it so you don't buy a time bomb from an idiot that threw it together with bog.

Prices in the US have been going up and up but I'm sure you'll find something at a reasonable price. I would even suggest you even try find something around Australia that's in the project phase with import approval. 

[Raven]

Have prices gone up? US eBay

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/172062413308

[GLENN 70]

Yep

[StephenSLR]

Have prices gone up?

That's what I'm hearing from the guys in the US. They blame Gone in 60 seconds but not taking into account how poor the USD was a few years back and all their cars going to Aus., Japan and Europe.

s

[GLENN 70]

I wouldn't pay anything close to that ,but he is trying and working on the fact its or was an S code .