WTB: 1964-68 Fast back, project preffered.

[stefan87]

Hello everyone,

Just like most other people I am chasing a 64 through to 68 fastback mustang, now I'm not too picky with colour of interior or drive train as that will all be getting changed anyway, I am a cash buyer (current budget around $25 000 due to wedding lol) and will spend the money if the car is worth it.

I just want a solid classic body, no Shelby parts like R code fronts or windows where vents should be, can be left hand drive and would prefer a manual but will settle for an auto, ideally a rolling complete car with out engine would be what I am chasing.

Am located in Brisbane but will happily travel interstate to find the right car, I would really prefer a 64/5/6 but would take a 67/8, I am constantly checking ebay/car sales/gumtree etc but if you have any leads it would be appreciated.

If anyone has something just pm, call/sms 0400 142 370 or email stefanorders@gmail.com
Thanks a lot guys, Stefan.

[mert]

$25k Aus, less minimum $5k shipping, means about $15k US.  Good luck finding a solid complete fastback for that price...

As you are restomodding anyway...Dynacorn shell... save s a ton in rust repairs and fixing PO "improvements".

[StephenSLR]

$15k US.  Good luck finding a solid complete fastback for that price...

May be a bit hard to find an abandoned project here but he should be able to get a roller for $15k in the US; may not be complete though.

Perhaps contact Shermatt and see if he knows of any.

s

[stefan87]

Thanks for your input guys, when I say complete, I mean as complete as possible, not phased if there is no interior, glass etc.
Didn't know about the dynacorn cars, just posting for now, once the wedding is out of the way the budget will grow lol

[StephenSLR]

Didn't know about the dynacorn cars

Don't buy a Dynacorn shell unless you plan to use it for parts. The left overs from original car can be minimal but check first with an engineer as to what constitutes a re-shell.
To register a new shell complete, you have to engineer it to modern ADR's.

Doing a very quick search on Craigslist I found these; both within your budget.

https://nashville.craigslist.org/cto/4997899134.html

http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/cto/4990444650.html

Getting them here and on the road in the long run will likely end up costing you as much as buying one complete but that will depend on how much work you do yourself and to what standard you build it to.

Best talk to some importers to see if they know of any going, you're likely to get one quicker if you import and more to your tastes.

Don't buy overseas without getting it inspected.

s

[BossKraft]

I have an early fastback available, but it has all the bodywork done. Complete, but in hi-fill and ready for paint and it's priced above your budget. I think it'd be a tough gig to find what you're after.

[mert]

Don't buy a Dynacorn shell unless you plan to use it for parts.

???

These are made from Dyancorn shells

http://blog.caranddriver.com/drive-like-its-1965-revologys-repro-ford-mustangs-have-us-salivating/

A rusted beat up OEM is not really any better than a Dyncorn for a restomod.

The fit and finish of a 65/66 Mustang was crap from the factory, the current expectation of mm accurate gaps is just not the way it was.   The Dynacorn are as good, or better, than OEM as an assembly.

As Bosskraft notes finding a "solid" shell in that price range is a tough ask.  And primer hides a lot of sins in a 10-foot picture...

And as for

Don't buy overseas without getting it inspected.

I'd suggest inspecting any car you buy... seen plenty of crap cars advertised as "no rust, fully restored", here as well..."

[StephenSLR]

These are made from Dyancorn shells

If you buy a full shell and attempt to register it with no tags from another Mustang, you are basically building a car from scratch; when it comes time to register you have to comply to the ADR's of today. From what I hear it's a long process and expensive.

While visiting the USA I saw this car at Gateway Classic in Missouri.



^ it's a full shell from Dynacorn. The windscreen surround and dash section was salvaged from a previously registered Mustang that they grafted onto it. By doing this they can now register the previous Mustang according to the ADR's of 1965 not the ADR's of 2015. They use the VIN from the 1965 Mustang, not apply for a brand new VIN. They have successfully resurrected an old Mustang, not registered a brand new shell.

This is what I was getting at. I suspect it will be the same here. Unless you want to register a new shell with new VIN to 2015 ADR'S, you had better check with an engineer in Aus. to see how much of the original car you can graft onto a shell in order to use the old VIN and register to 1964-1968 design rules.


I also saw this sitting outside Gateway Classic:





s

[R_Beckhaus]

The other point about Dynacorn body shells, is if you build a whole car from new dynacorn bits, you not only have to comply with all adr's for current date, also it must be registered as a kit car, not as a Mustang.

[StephenSLR]

it must be registered as a kit car, not as a Mustang.

What ramifications does that present?

Many hot rods are built from scratch and they have to be certified by an engineer at various stages throughout the build; are they also kit cars?

s

[BossKraft]

Having seen many a dynacorn body, I would never build or buy one, aside from the major issue than Ron pointed out above. I really dislike the way they're built. Seem welds everywhere. Ugly. I like using their repair panels, though, so thank them for making them!

[R_Beckhaus]

Stephen, most rods have original bodies, with the wood frames replaced with steel, and having owned Vintage cars, they never had body numbers, so proving/disproving originality becomes a moot point, so the Kit car thing doesn't apply.

[StephenSLR]

Stephen, most rods have original bodies ... so the Kit car thing doesn't apply

What about those made with the fibreglass repro bodies?  I know there are guys making them from scratch, welding chassis rails from steel plates then fitting parts from an assortment of cars.

s

[R_Beckhaus]

Inspectors won't be looking at the material the shell is made from, because they have a full ladderframe chassis. Technically speaking, you could build a Rod on a HQ Holden 1 tonner chassis, which is crash tested to Aus spec.

[StephenSLR]

Inspectors won't be looking at the material the shell is made from

I mean to say the repro fibreglass shell will have no VIN. The chassis they make from steel plates, welded together to form box rails don't come from any car either.

s

[R_Beckhaus]

Actually, Stephen, you are right. I re-read my prior posts and realised a mistake I made.I said body No, and meant VIN no. With my old '29 Dodge tourer, It had a body manufacturers plate screwed to the left floor rail as these cars came to Aus as ckd form,( with bodies from the scuttle backward to be manufactured locally). This plate had a number which was simply the number assigned to that body on the production line and was a sequential number. This was used as the VIN no on the rego docs as the car didn't have a factory VIN.
 I meant to imply or pose the question that if a Rod builder used one of these plates, would the material used in the manufacture of the Rod's body even need to be addressed? If so in the case of a glass body then obviously it would qualify as a kit car. I would think a rod with a genuine body could be registered as an existing brand car (Ford, Chev, Dodge etc) consistent with the original body, though being required to comply to ADR's applicable to the more modern drive train.
I hope this makes sense as I've just started a run of dog watch shifts and am sleep deprived...the cause of my mistake earlier.
Cheers, Ron B

[StephenSLR]

in the case of a glass body then obviously it would qualify as a kit car.

Thanks

I would think a rod with a genuine body could be registered as an existing brand car (Ford, Chev, Dodge etc) consistent with the original body, though being required to comply to ADR's applicable to the more modern drive train.

Yeah a Ford body on HQ chassis with HQ steering brakes, diff, etc. being registered as a Ford makes sense; it'd be too funny to call it a HQ, lol. 

You just reminded me of the Perrenti kit cars that were built on HQ frames.



s

[R_Beckhaus]

Now there's a car that went the way of the Dodo. I wonder how many of those are still around.

[StephenSLR]

Now there's a car that went the way of the Dodo.

As did all the kit cars of the 80's

I wonder how many of those are still around.

I saw one at one a Roman's Hot Rod event a while back







s

[R_Beckhaus]

There's usually a good representation of Purvis Eurekas and Bolwell Nagaris at shows, but not many Perrentis. It's good they are still aroundand are publicly represented.

[StephenSLR]

There's usually a good representation of Purvis Eurekas and Bolwell Nagaris at shows

Yep at the last Cars n Coffee two Nagaris turned up; it's been a long time since I saw a Eureka; I think I saw a Pantera at Cavallino's or some other event.

s

[BossKraft]

Here's one of the Bolwell's that attends Bosskraft's Cars N Coffee. Super nice car, too.

[R_Beckhaus]

The Nagaris are my favourite Kit cars, followed be the Eureka. Eurekas are always strongly represented at  few Hunter Valley runs like Maitland Steamfest and the Glendale to Hunter Valley Gardens run.

[StephenSLR]

The Nagaris are my favourite Kit cars

More pics from that day; two showed up.

















s

[R_Beckhaus]

Thank you Stephen! Makes my old heart glad!
Cheers, Ron B