Engine coming out !

[Ford Compact 1963]

No again ,bell housing stays on box .  When everything is unbolted ,engine mounts ,bell housing bolts ,converter bolts and all the other things it will start to come out once hooked up the crane ,you will most likely need to put a large flat blade screwdriver between engine block and bell housing to help separate them .   It's a shame you don't know Anyone that knows what they are doing to help you ,I would but I live to far away .

Appreciate it Glenn that would be great if you were just guidance we are not worried about getting hands dirty and learning !

[GEOFF289]

We'd all be well advised to move next door to Glenn, I reckon. Even better is ShaunP was over the road as well.

As i said near the beginning of this thread, if I can do it you can. Here's some pictorial guidance of trans removal that I found useful the first time I did it. Different car and trans to yours but principles and process the same and will illustrate the written advice you've been getting here.

https://my67fastback.wordpress.com/automatic-tranmission-removal/

[GLENN 70]

Thanks but Shaun and I would be very busy    we help when we can but its hard to explain on here sometimes and trying to keep it simple . 

[Ford Compact 1963]

We'd all be well advised to move next door to Glenn, I reckon. Even better is ShaunP was over the road as well.

As i said near the beginning of this thread, if I can do it you can. Here's some pictorial guidance of trans removal that I found useful the first time I did it. Different car and trans to yours but principles and process the same and will illustrate the written advice you've been getting here.

https://my67fastback.wordpress.com/automatic-tranmission-removal/

Cheers Geoff it's very involved ! Haha putting me off

[GEOFF289]

Don't be put off. You can do it! Really its just unbolting a lot of stuff. I can tell you from personal experience that you will feel fantastic when you achieve it.

[Ford Compact 1963]

http://youtu.be/6CmAz5gUrKU

[dyates]

Content removed.

peterp

[GLENN 70]

Hmm Dyates think you put that on the wrong thread .

[RayAzza]

Lol

[Ford Compact 1963]

Wtf does that comment mean? Hoping it for a different thread

[GLENN 70]

What was that suppose to mean , don't think the comment was meant to be posted on this thread and was for someone else's thread / post . End of story .

[Ford Compact 1963]

What was that suppose to mean , don't think the comment was meant to be posted on this thread and was for someone else's thread / post . End of story .

?

[GLENN 70]

I'm sure Dyates was not talking to anyone on this post your  post  .  Read his post that he put up on here .

[barnett468]

.
Perhaps he posted it after winning one of the Australian beer drinking games he mentioned or possibly it's just another example of the unfortunate affect a cold tasty Fosters Lager can have on people.

[Ford Compact 1963]

Ok tried to remove exhaust bolts from headers and no joy I soaked them over nite in wd40. Trans  belhousing bolts the same my dad said they are in solid!

[GLENN 70]

The bell housing bolts will be tight but will undo and you won't break them .  You might be better undoing the exhaust manifolds from the flange , 2 nuts on each stud . Then get the manifolds off the engine later .

[GLENN 70]

Make sure you do not use metric tools on this job ,you don't want to round off any nuts / bolt heads .

[barnett468]

.
ok it doesn't sound like you are you are following my list in order . . if this is the case, you might have problems . . as far as the bell housing bolts go, use at least a 2 foot long 1/2 inch drive breaker bar and some muscle . . 

[Ford Compact 1963]

ok you are not following my instructions so all i can say is good luck and god help you . . as far as the bell housing bolts go use at least a 2 foot long 1/2 inch drive breaker barand some muscle . .

This was just a test

[barnett468]

This was just a test

lol, ok got it.

seriously though, use a massive breaker bar on the bell housing bolts . . you made need a 1" extension for the top ones if you use a short socket and try them from the top . . otherwise you can use a long, long 1/2 inch extension and swivel and the breaker bar and get them from the bottom . . i know these tools are very uncommon for most people to have so maybe you can rent or borrow them.

as far as the exhaust goes . . you can just leave the manifolds on until you get the engine out if you want but you must remove the nuts on the studs on the rear of the manifolds where the pipes are FIRST . . do not unbolt the manifolds from the heads before you do this or you might be very unhappy.

as i mentioned, if the nuts are stuck, get them blazing bright red hot with an oxygen acetylene torch or a propane torch etc . . if you do NOT do this, you will likely break the stud off and you will be totally screwed.

if the bolts that hold the manifolds to the heads are not moving, just use a 12 inch or longer 3/8" breaker bar . . the chance of them breaking is very small but not non existent.

unfortunately, the wd40 will not help for your particular problem.

[Ford Compact 1963]

lol, ok got it.

seriously though, use a massive breaker bar on the bell housing bolts . . you made need a 1" extension for the top ones if you use a short socket and try them from the top . . otherwise you can use a long, long 1/2 inch extension and swivel and the breaker bar and get them from the bottom . . i know these tools are very uncommon for most people to have so maybe you can rent or borrow them.

as far as the exhaust goes . . you can just leave the manifolds on until you get the engine out if you want but you must remove the nuts on the studs on the rear of the manifolds where the pipes are FIRST . . do not unbolt the manifolds from the heads before you do this or you might be very unhappy.

as i mentioned, if the nuts are stuck, get them blazing bright red hot with an oxygen acetylene torch or a propane torch etc . . if you do NOT do this, you will likely break the stud off and you will be totally screwed.

if the bolts that hold the manifolds to the heads are not moving, just use a 12 inch or longer 3/8" breaker bar . . the chance of them breaking is very small but not non existent.

unfortunately, the wd40 will not help for your particular problem.

Cheers pal I will try your methods no access to tortch but will attempt again on Sat when I'm actually there. I'm hoping this goes well then determine weather it will be a single engine removal seperate from trans or not.

Lookingbfoward to it but not :) beers will be cold my dad assures me. Crane with h leveler arriving sat

[barnett468]

Cheers pal I will try your methods no access to tortch but will attempt again on Sat when I'm actually there. I'm hoping this goes well then determine weather it will be a single engine removal seperate from trans or not.

Lookingbfoward to it but not :) beers will be cold my dad assures me. Crane with h leveler arriving sat

ok, i would buy one of these from the hardware store . . it should be around $18.00 asd . . this way you have it in case you need it [which you will] and you wont get stuck half way thru the job . . dont open it unless you need it . . return it it you dont use it.




if you need it, heat up one nut at a time until it stays brite red when you remove the torch, then try to remove the nut . . it will still be hard to remove and it will creak and moan . . after around 3 or 4 turns it might get hard to turn again . . this is because the nut cooled . . if this happens, simply heat it up again . . if you force it once it gets harder to turn, you will damage something.

look at the color chart in the link below . . you want it to look like the 1400 degree or hotter color . . the nuts will likely not come off at the 1200 degree color.

http://www.blksmth.com/heat_colors.htm

[Ford Compact 1963]

Decided that engine is comming out seperate. Can I get some guidance of exact steps for this procedure ?  then part two removing trans procedure.

Thank you gents

[Ford Compact 1963]

ok, i would buy one of these from the hardware store . . it should be around $18.00 asd . . this way you have it in case you need it [which you will] and you wont get stuck half way thru the job . . dont open it unless you need it . . return it it you dont use it.




if you need it, heat up one nut at a time until it stays brite red when you remove the torch, then try to remove the nut . . it will still be hard to remove and it will creak and moan . . after around 3 or 4 turns it might get hard to turn again . . this is because the nut cooled . . if this happens, simply heat it up again . . if you force it once it gets harder to turn, you will damage something.

look at the color chart in the link below . . you want it to look like the 1400 degree or hotter color . . the nuts will likely not come off at the 1200 degree color.

http://www.blksmth.com/heat_colors.htm

Done

[shaunp]

You dont want Propane you want MAP gas torch way hotter, you can braze with them. If you leave the box in the car you just need to unbolt the torque converter as well. You can buy a Map torch and disposable cylinders from any plumbing supplies or Bunnings.