289 Engine Querys

[Wharfie66]

Hi guys,

I bought a second hand running 289 (block cast C8OE-6015-A, date code 7E11 it has 302 in the valley which I have read is likely a clevo 289) which was supposedly reco'd 20k kms ago, i'm changing the inlet manifold (to edlbrck performer running 570 holley), timing cover, later model reverse waterpump, thermostat housing (all part of new serpentine kit), air cleaner, and headers. It come with a msd 8503 dissy. It also has the factory heads.

I'm looking at changing the welsh plugs including cam cap, along with the rear and timing cover seals. Do the core plugs in the heads get changed out too? I have done research but never see the head plugs being renewed. I am looking at this set http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/121376099352?nav=SEARCH
but want to replace cam cap for brass one. What's the best sealant to use? I was looking at permatex aviation form-a-gasket 3J but the bloke at repco was saying I should use the 4J as that cures to hard, where the 3J cures to flexible.   Also for the smallest caps in that set what is the best way to remove those considering I'm not rebuilding the motor at this stage so don't want crap getting into the motor. I have only seen one so far near the rear under the inlet manifold any idea where the others are?

Also for a rear 2piece seal renewal, I understand that you off-set the seal join from the main cap join.  Is that accurate?And if so, by how much?

Lastly, what other preventative measures can I do whilst I've got it out of the car, I'm thinking maybe new oil pump and pick up?

Thanks for any help you could offer.     Sorry about the small novel.

Cheers
Wharfie

[boofhead]

Casting C8OE  means it is a 68 302 W block possibly from a fairlane. No such thing as a 289 Clevo.

The welsh plugs are easy enough to change though do not bother if you really do not need to. In any case, if you tap them (firmly) on one of the edges (with a dowel) they will turn then you can pull them out. Small ones are harder to get out and need more care in doing so.

I have always installed them dry, having said that a guess a very thin layer of RTV would be good insurance.

I always offset the two piece rear seal by about 1/2 inch. Use a small amount of RTV on the ends. If the motor still uses a rope seal you may need to remove a locating pin - RTV the hole that is left after the pin is removed.

If changing your oil pump then make sure it is a standard pressure unit.

Have fun.

[shaunp]

It's a 68 289 they were built in 302 blocks. No need to change the plug behind the cam as there is no water there can't rust. I use black max glue

[Wharfie66]

Thanks guys, this is where I got my info, assumed it was accurate.
http://www.classicmustang.com/casting_numbers.htm
Cheers 

[boofhead]

The 68 e.g., C8 casting can be either a 289 or more likely a 302. I have a 68 blocks for both of my cars and both are 302s (before rebore anyway). They were running out of 289 blocks so a few early 302 blocks were used in the last run of 289s. 

Note: Regardless where the block was actually cast the Windsor (yes primarily built in Windsor plant) is the Windsor block while the Cleveland is a different motor (yes primarily build in the Cleveland plant).  They are very different engines. You have a Windsor engine. Just need to check the stroke to know if it is a actual 289 or 302.