67 bonnet moulding

[J.hatzivalsamis]

Gentlemen of Mustangs i am chasing a bonnet moulding which is aluminium and sits on the front of the bonnet on a 67. The ones that i have bought from mustang places around the country aftermarket are absolute rubbish and total waste of money so would apreciate a good lead to purchase a quality one.

[R_Beckhaus]

Try Barry Reynolds at Early Pony Parts. He carries a lot of original stuff from wrecked card.

[mert]

Two NOS on Ebay right now, running ~$250-300 USD plus shipping.... which is a reasonable price.

[MILD67]

I have no idea, but wanted to say that I love your avatar.

[67FBGT]

Yes your avatar is absolutely stunning.....& very distracting.....what was your question again?

Ah yes, hood leading edge mouldings...both the repros ex USA I've bought for my 67s (not SD) have been soft alloy with poor anodizing, just like the sill trims. I don't know if anyone makes OEM quality ones.

[staddy]

Dad`s mustang and Shelby , Maryland USA
They have a NOS for $225 plus shipping 

[staddy]

Hey Jimmy may have found your quality problem with these trim parts , after carefull inspection , well lookie there "Made in Taiwan" 

[chopmgw]

The reproduction ones are crap.
The one I bought was about a cm shorter than the original.
I eventually spent quite a few hours polishing the old one up and putting it back on.

[J.hatzivalsamis]

Thanks for the leads Boys the avatar is like  a Mustang in many ways and i am glad that some of you aprove. As i said and probably many others have found the taiwan made parts are just crap, i too have repaired and polished my old one but will pusue a new NOS even if it costs a good amount.

[67FBGT]

the avatar is like a Mustang in many ways

??? Huh? What, lots of moving parts?
Yes I'm sure we all approve. Dare we ask where you found it/her?

I just don't understand why the alloy repro parts are so soft, you can reshape them by hand. And yet anodizing if anything should harden the surface.
I ended up painting my hood moulding with the body colour, & ditto the associated hockey stick trims around the grill opening, as I wasn't happy with the poxy anodized finish & I'd already decided that the front end of my car had too much 'bling' & would benefit from being toned down a little, rather like the Shelby style.

[68Coupe]

the avatar is like  a Mustang in many ways

??? Huh? What, lots of moving parts?

Hmmmm, more like you just have to get your hands on them. 

As staddy said there are NOS parts are available if you're prepared to pay upwards of $250.

Andrew

[mert]

And beware that NOS does not mean "perfect".  40 year old parts will often show wear and minor blemishes.

Be careful with any polishing, as if you get too aggressive and burn thru the anodized finish you might as well toss it...

[R_Beckhaus]

Mert, can the original pieces be re-anodised to restore the finish??

[mert]

Sure, if you can find someone to do it... need to ensure bright finish.

[67FBGT]

In my experience, decent quality anodizing needs to be at least 10 preferably 15 microns. I doubt if the repros are even half that, so easy to polish through it & the fact that the alloy is so soft means you can't put any pressure on. Junk.

[R_Beckhaus]

Is the problem finding anodisers or getting the bright finish required?

[67FBGT]

There are far fewer anodisers around than there used to be because powder coating has become dominant - & AFAIK is cheaper, well for standard colours anyway - in the construction industry. And the powder coatings available with the 'metallic' look are often preferred by designers over the rather thin look of anodizing, IMO.
But bright anodizing is still available, eg. natural (clear) or silver, it's still specified from time to time for aluminium.
But I think the quality of the substrate is going to be the problem. Powder coating at least has a little hiding power, whereas even the slightest blemish is highlighted by anodizing.
NOS would be the way to go if available, but you'd want to inspect the part(s) first, not just buy them blind from overseas.

[67fasty.sm]

mine was all marked and stone chipped , so completely removed all the anodizing repaired the scratches and dents , polished it on my polishing wheel, cleaned it , then sprayed it with a clear , came up great.
if the clear comes eventually will just re clear it .

[J.hatzivalsamis]

It seems like if you can repair your old one go for it or as some sugested even the NOS ones say in original wrapping but do not say condition of moulding as been sitting for over forty years the moisture would have left blemishes, so i'll wait till one surfaces in good nik. PS the Avatar was sent to me from obviously a friend as an admirer of fine play things.

[shelby_mustro]

Ha just fitted my repo one today was about 20 mm too long and was completely the wrong angle had to bend it just to get it on. My original has a dint in the middle might have to find someone that can repair it.

[shaunp]

Ha just fitted my repo one today was about 20 mm too long and was completely the wrong angle had to bend it just to get it on. My original has a dint in the middle might have to find someone that can repair it.

sounds like a 69

[67tang]

I have one you can have it if you want it

[J.hatzivalsamis]

67tang if you still have the moulding and its repairable i would like to have it.Regards Jim.

[J.hatzivalsamis]

Gentlemen of 67 Ponys i have seen on Chuck Steaks car a nice fitting bonnet moulding but we cannot find out who fitted it or from where in Ozz. it came from, if you can keep your eyes out during your visits to mustang parts suppliers maybe we can locate a good one also if anybody has a template for the shelby drop for a 1967 mustang that they want to sell please PM me.