Possible Paint Stuff Up

[agillies84]

Hi All,

have been a long time reader, and finally have a question i couldn't find (Hopefully).

I have a 68 Coupe, that i have been slowly restoring. I have been learning a lot over this journey.
The aim is to have it as a near daily driver.

Over the last few months, I have been removing rust in the rain channels and fixing the dents.
I have tried to do everything myself with this car, (apart from some tricky welding) so decided I would spray it myself as well.
I'm lucky enough to have a mates dad who was a spray painter in the day, who helped me out a bit.
its been painted red, and apart from some small dust particles, its come up pretty ok.

here-in lies the problem...

My mates dad told me when its set to cut it back and then polish it.
My dad offered to give me a hand over a weekend and i gladly accepted.

unfortunately I got called in to work, leaving my dad to start.
4 hours later I return home and he has sanded the car back using 1500 / 2000 sandpaper.
There was no clear coat put on, as it is a base colour.

Is it fecked?
My mates dad is on a cruise and can't get in contact with him.

It looks dull now, will polishing it return it to the gloss it was before?
What type of polish should I use?

Cheers

[smackdownz]

Nope its fine o fine mate, thats the process.. spray the paint on... "wet" sand with 1200 - 1500 -2000 grit paper to remove dust and orange peal in the paint, and then polish to a high gloss shine 

the paint will look dull where it is sanded as its basically been scratched by the sand paper (but to fine to see scratches .. so just looks overall dull)

Youll want a really light compound "cut" and polish to get all the fine 2000 grit scratches out that you made when wet sanding. just a normal polish will not achive this..(youll be there forever polishing/will look glossy, but in sunlight will show alot of sanding scrathes)  I only use 3M perfect it or Juice polish Q-cut.

http://www.juicepolishes.com.au/qcut.html

https://www.carcareproducts.com.au/product/3m/perfect_it_machine_polish

the "supercheap" and "autobarn" products are ok.... (mothers/maguires) etc.. but say you buy a maguires fine cut cleaner youll need to then purchase just a straight up "polish" to go over the top, where the 3m and the Juice are both in one, and work the best.

Be SUPER careful when sanding. wet sand to much paint off and youll go thru to the primer.. same thing with the cut and polish.. sit in one spot to long or hit an edge where there isnt much paint and youll go straight thru to the primer....and once that happens its repaint time....so be super super careful..

Just remember every step in the process is removing half to a layer of paint. so make sure theres enough paint on the car!

Best of luck mate 

[shaunp]

What is it painted in. 1500 /2000 is fine on most paint unless it is 2pack base, you just need to cut it now. there is a thread on here about cutting paint, in fact they bloke who has had most input to it is in SA, chase him up Rocket is his user name

[Ash]

I'm only a newbie to painting but was it a base/clear paint system or a direct gloss?

You said there was no clear, would it really be a good idea to put any polish down before laying clear coat?

[agillies84]

It was 2k.
the bloke said that for a solid colour i didnt need a clear coat.
I normally research everything before i do something, but i didnt worry about it this time.

So the paint isnt stuffed?
Ive got Presta Ultra Cutting Creme & Presta Swirl Remover. Is this stuff good? If not ill get the 3m stuff.

Will it get as shiny as it was from the spray gun?

[66 Stang]

If it's a solid colour, solid colours don't need clear coat, however clear can go I've to give that little bit extra, if you put to much on to quickly, it can give a yellowing effect, usually clear is only over metallics.

The 1500 and 2000 is perfect, as stated earlier a light buff with compound will bring it up beautifully, try to use a fairly wet compound that is a fine cut, I wouldn't use a general cutting compound unless your familiar with handling a a machine buff.

I hope you were nice to your dad, he has done the hard work for you, and no he hasn't stuffed it, so likely you owe him a beer or two.

I bet your face was priceless when you saw it all dull...

[smackdownz]

No clear coat needed over a solid 2k. clears only needed on a base/clear system. (pearl/metallic/candy base coats)

(Ash if he was to put a clear over the base at this stage, the paint needs to be kept absolutely spotless and away from greasy fingers and polishes and waxs ) any contaminants on the base coat will ruin the clear coat (normally base is painted and then 30-45 mins later a clear is put over it..not left for days) whole different story if laying down stripes

as 66stang said give your old boy a beer! took me about 12hrs all up to wetsand my car!

prestas fine, use the ultra cut first then a polish. will look flatter and shinier then it did when it came out of the gun!

[67fasty.sm]

   
cheers shane

[shaunp]

There are only a few compounds worth using, forum members get a discount from Waxit,. Look at Menzerna, Ferecula and Scholl forget the rest, Juice etc are crap, full of fillers, you want something that cuts. Foam pad only. You can flow coat it with clear if you want now it's rubbed. Don't use wax& grease  remover, most of that  is crap also, use white spirits on micro fibre prior paint or clear.

[GLENN 70]

It will turn out good ,but as Shaun said use a foam pad only if you don't know how to use a buff ,otherwise you will burn the paint .

[smackdownz]

3m perfect it range and juice q-cut are completely wax,  silicone and filler free shaunp 

[shaunp]

3m perfect it range and juice q-cut are completely wax,  silicone and filler free shaunp 

3M "Perfect it" is fine I've used that for 20 years, don't like Juice at all too slow and messy, leaves the paint greasy particularly dark colours, it's cheap though.  German Menzera & Scholl concepts is the shit. Lake country pads.