let the games begin

[blackthunder1970]

hi
sorry if you feel we are beening negitive just trying to help you out
its your money and car
we are just giving our thoughts
best of luck
barry

[griff]

for the rest, i hope your life is not as negative as your comments.

noblg
ill take ownership of my comment and say im not being negative, i just enjoy taking the piss and you should expect that at times on a public forum. barry, with who i agree, has simply vocalised what i reckon many of us would be thinking, cop it on the chin ol' son.
now take a breath and consider those comments, no-one has said youre a prick for starting this, only that there are guys with years of experience here who know what is involved with 'resurrecting' one of these cars.
have you asked the question "is this shell salvageable?" to a sheet metal expert and had it looked at? that would be the very first action id take.
i know your dream is to have a classic car with modern tech, thats fantastic but any prudent person will ask at what expense are you prepared for over how many years and what are you starting off with??. Its been said before "figure a cost and then triple it"
 
I showed your pictures to a beater down the road from me who has just completed a cleanup of a cheap basic 66 he landed for under $10k. His comment was that you have so much more to shell out as essentially youre having to buy a whole new car in panels and parts, all your wiring looms alone are going to cost you around $1k!!
if youve level headedly considered the amount of work ahead (and thats not including the modifications) and are willing to spend the coin on your project i wish u all the best and will watch this space.
griff

[peter9231]

Not trying to be negative,
The exact opposite in fact just trying to impart some info that may assist in decisions with your quest.
All the best with the project.
Peter.

[mwizz]

Welcome and good luck with the build

[efi Coupe]

Mate - welcome and have fun...
Sounds like a reasonable bit of what you want to replace anyway is no longer there - so someone's started the job for you !
If you can get a wreck with your running gear cheap(ish), (Like I did), then you'll have a lot of things - like wiring looms, and maybe seats etc...
Awesome project - we all need something to spend all our spare time one - and get the sense of satisfaction that you get for doing something for love - not cause it makes sense !
Cheers
Dave

[noblg]

Right on Dave,
I love going out and tinkering in the shed.  my kids love scraping paint and getting dirty.  Its a family project taht will be finished , when its finished.  and your right in what you say, doing a Resto mod i did not want most of the old gear, where ever possibile i will be using new gear

[67fasty.sm]

noblg stick with it, formulate a plan , then use it and dont get to side tracked .  with regards to your  tcp suspension i would find an approved engineer in your state and work with him or her and you shouldn't have too much trouble .
And like you I started with a pretty shitty shell but for me it was the only way to build a muscle car $'s were scarce and brought what i could , then have chipped away for 2&1/2YRS and most likely another before i am on the road .
 i must say though I was lucky with paint and panel bartering off labour between my trade and his, but have done everything else so i've been where you are going so dont hesitate ask .
cheers shane

[R_Beckhaus]

I hope it goes well for you, Mate, and that your car ends up as nice as I think my restomod '68 is.
Cheers, Ron B

[blackthunder1970]

noblg stick with it, formulate a plan , then use it and dont get to side tracked .  with regards to your  tcp suspension i would find an approved engineer in your state and work with him or her and you shouldn't have too much trouble .
And like you I started with a pretty shitty shell but for me it was the only way to build a muscle car $'s were scarce and brought what i could , then have chipped away for 2&1/2YRS and most likely another before i am on the road .
 i must say though I was lucky with paint and panel bartering off labour between my trade and his, but have done everything else so i've been where you are going so dont hesitate ask .
cheers shane

but the difference is that your body has not been in a fire
barry

[unilec5544]

I think most people are just shocked to see the condition of the body, but its your project, so good luck with it and keep the pics coming. Also remember that this site has a wealth of Knowledge and very helpful people.

[67fasty.sm]

but the difference is that your body has not been in a fire
barry

yeah you are right barry , but , once we had stripped the car down was found it to have been tee boned and ass ended . with that they had hidden most of the damage with a few kg's of filler and had welded in a piece of sill and A pillar from another car from just below the windscreen post to just in front of the B pillar what made it worst was out by 20mm with the qtr panel angling in as well as the sill .
 i am sure that he will get it checked and if no good replace just like mine but can understand your concern as i realize the effect extreme heat has
cheers shane

[efi Coupe]

Guys -
Dont get too hung up on the fire.....
Steel begins to loose its yield and Ultimate strength at around 300 degrees ...  getting progressively softer.
This will display itself in distortion and buckling as residual stresses are relieved,  and restrained thermal expansion....
In summary - Consider replacing any buckled sections - but generally - if it's straight - its good.

I'm not aware of any long term fatigue implications either -
Admittedly my source of knowledge is more structural steel exposed to fire - but I stand to be educated on what differences there are  (both our cars and structural steel are generally low grade carbon steel - not heat treated alloys)
Cheers
Dave

[noblg]

Dave,
You are spot on with your assessment.  the rear quater is being replaced as it was closest to the fire and it did buckle. the rest of the car is straight and BOG free. there is NO rust in the car and i found out that it had been in the country since 1970 and spent most of its life out west.  this would explain why there is no rust in it, as well as the 4 coats of paint it has on it....

[anfo99]

welcome aboard, car looks like she needs a bit of love, but the more love you giv e her the greater the satisfaction in the end good luck

[noblg]

Thanks Anfo,
I have sent her off to the boasters, my biggest problem is going to be sourcing all the little odds and ends, as I've got nothing but a shell.
Should be fun

[67fasty.sm]

Noblg , thats pretty much where i started , mate you will do it no probs at all plenty of moral support here to keep you going.
Cheers
Shane

[yamahore]

Best of luck with the build   

[Irish]

Glenn 70.
thank you for the info,the worst rust is in the 1/4 panel which i am replacing, the floors are great as well as underneath. the boot area looks like new. i will be replacing the front cowl and the roof skin as it is dented and has oil canning. Dynacorn make coupe roof skins now. i am going to grit blast the entire car, seal it with epoxy and por 15 the inside.  i want to get rid of the leaf springs.  what would you suggest?  my concept for the pony is simple.
Look like a 66 coupe, drive like a 2014 coupe.

This is easier than it sounds. The 66 is way lighter than a modern mustang. With 300 HP it will perform like a 450hp 2014 car. Handling is easier also. Get some decent suspension, and shocks (Modern mustangs are still solid axle) and 300hp worth of engine and you are set.

[scedd1]

Thanks Anfo,
I have sent her off to the boasters, my biggest problem is going to be sourcing all the little odds and ends, as I've got nothing but a shell.
Should be fun

If you are not doing a restoration, its not so bad.
My Frankenstang hs ED running gear, including the dash and steering column, so it also has the ED wiring loom, fuel tank top, computers and pedal box.
An XM or XP will donate many of your little parts, like lights and switches and door hardware, etc.