2 barrel or 4 barrel carburettor

[mustang_talk]

I've been having some cranking and rough idle issues of late and my machanic stopped over today to have a look.
After some analysis he believes it's time to recondition the 2 barrel carby or get a new one. He advised go for 4 barrels as they are more reliable. I read that the benefits include more power and increased top speed.
Is there really such a big difference? My car is just for cruising not racing or seeing how quick I can get from 0 to 60km. Also I do like to keep things original. Just wondering what others have done when the time came to change the carby on their cars and any improvements they noticed. Thanks in advance for any input on the subject.

[moe]

Based on what you want out of it, get the stock two barrel reconditioned.

They are pretty simple to put a kit through them.  I'm no mechanic, and I've successfully done exactly that.  Parts are readily available. 

[GLENN 70]

    with moe  , and a 4 barrel with have more power and top end sort of but then you will need a 4 B inlet manifold also . So just get your 2 B recond .

[evan]

Personally, I'd ditch the 2 barrel. Many many moons ago, I went from 2 to 4 barrel on a 302 Clevo & couldn't believe the difference.
I expect the Windsor would have a similar increase although I've never tried a 2 barrel on my 289 (A Code).
If you like originality, try & track down an Autolite 4100 & cast iron manifold. These carbs are brilliant! Maybe somebody on the forum has upgraded & doesn't mind parting with the originals? Wouldn't hurt to ask.

Evan.

[mustang_talk]

Thanks for the suggestions, i notice cjponyparts has recon kits for $24. I like the thought of reconditioning the original. Going the 4 barrel option may be alot more expensive.??

[GLENN 70]

Yes a lot ,4b carby ,4b manifold ,fuel line and inlet gaskets ,plus labour if you dont do it yourself . A 4b set up will give you more power thats for sure ,but if you dont care for more HP  thats fine .

[evan]

Thanks for the suggestions, i notice cjponyparts has recon kits for $24. I like the thought of reconditioning the original. Going the 4 barrel option may be alot more expensive.??

I assume you have a 2100. The 2100/4100 carbs are very simple. Grab a can of good carby cleaner & as has been pointed out in another thread, track down a Walker rebuild kit as they have the correct needles & seats. I bought a kit locally & the seats were completely wrong. Ordered a Walker kit (as recommended by Veronica) from Amazon quite cheaply & the correct items were included.

Evan.

[shaunp]

Got a new 570, Avenger and Action Plus for sale if you want one.

[mustang_talk]

Evan i think its a 2100. Thanks for the suggestion regarding the kit to use. Shaunp i will keep your offer in mind if option one fails. Anything i should be mindful of when removing the carby?

[evan]

Evan i think its a 2100. Thanks for the suggestion regarding the kit to use. Shaunp i will keep your offer in mind if option one fails. Anything i should be mindful of when removing the carby?

Don't spill petrol on your shoes? 

Removing/refitting is a no brainer. You'll be fine.

Evan.

[scollist]

Auto Restomod video on Youtube on how to rebuild a 4100, but 2100 should be the same.

http://youtu.be/1-K842VB_J0

[mustang_talk]

Thanks Evan, i'll make sure not to wear my Sunday best shoes.  scollist thanks for the youtube suggestion 

[Mudzy]

Got a new 570, Avenger and Action Plus for sale if you want one.

What sort of HP is this set up good for
??

[GLENN 70]

Depends on everything else ,but saying that a 570 and that intake may handle up to  350 HP plus . Or can still run on a mild 289/302 .

[shaunp]

Depends on everything else ,but saying that a 570 and that intake may handle up to  350 HP plus . Or can still run on a mild 289/302 .

Which why I just purchased a 670, and  Edelbrock rpm manifold, I had the carb & manifold planed for a milder build, with modified iron heads, flat tappet cam etc. Now Got AFR Outlaws, and Roller cam etc etc 1-5/8" primary 4 to 1 pipes one thing leads to another. The 570 would have run if fine but be marginal up high.

if you were pushing 350, you'd need to up the primary jets in 570, they are like 54's you'd want like 62/63.

[GLENN 70]

Shaun did you buy a RPM or RPM Airgap .And why with the one you picked . I run an RPM and not the air gap with the 670 .

[shaunp]

Shaun did you buy a RPM or RPM Airgap .And why with the one you picked . I run an RPM and not the air gap with the 670 .

I got an air gap, mainly cause they look cool, I don't really think they would make much difference to fuel charge temp but maybe they do, would depend on under bonnet temp, My car has the GT turn signal vented hood, so it will get some air flow over it I guess & have ceramic coated pipes. But I mostly liked the look of it, figured It cant hurt in Brisbane, I'd heard they can make them slower to warm up in cold temps, but I always get manual choke carbs, not that I ever use the choke and with a manual gear box you can always keep them from stalling.

Only need gasket kit and a few ARP bolts here and there now. Have Jim Berry Blue printed clutch 3400lb

[GLENN 70]

Yes they look good ,both work about the same within 2 or 3 hp tops a higher rpm , but not quite as good when engine is cold .What is your max rpm you will be spinning to .6500 .

[shaunp]

Something like that, I've got a Crane Hi6 cdi for it so I thought I'd set the rev limiter in the hi 6k range, The cam is supposed to go to 6K but it's a 351 cam, so it will go a little higher in a smaller engine, all the bolts are ARPs, rods, main studs etc, should hold together ok. Need some lower dif gears,  but I'll see how it goes first with the 3.0 rear then decide what to buy fit True track at the same time, I've put Traction masters on it, but it will still turn the tyres for sure, as I've got Firestone Wide Ovals F70 x14's for cruising, I'll get some Hoosiers for Mt Cotton and sprint days on some other rims.