Cooling

[64half]

All,
I have a 64half 289 auto.
I have had an overheating problem which I have been working on. When i got the car there was no fan shroud or thermostat.I now have those(160 f) plus a 6 blade flex fan. A bit better!
The problem persisted.
Temp increases in major traffic (Sydney) worse with high ambient of course.So.... I took the radiator out and found the 3 core almost 70% blocked. Engine and heater got a good flush and pump seems ok. A lot better!
 It now runs much cooler but still wants to climb in traffic, though not as bad, and cools quickly with ram air. I am concerned when the 30 c + temps come in summer it will overheat again. So is a thermo fan the answer and is this the norm for the mustang? Any ideas?
Thanks
David

[2233]

How accurate is your temp gauge?

Do you run cast iron heads and manifold?

[64half]

Echo,
I think the gauge is ok.
Cast heads and alloy manifold (edelbrock).
David

[2233]

I was thinking along the lines that cast iron heads hold heat longer than alloy ones.

I guess your only option is to try a thermo fan.

I run a std 4 blade factory fan,no shroud, 3 core radiator, thermostat and on a 40 degree day(god damn its hot with no air con) it still wont make it past 180F or 82.2222 C.

Maybe ummmm...........what condition is your water pump in?

Do you use coolant?

By the way great name ! :f

[64half]

Echo,
The pump seems to be ok, unless at idle it doesn't have the flow.I haven't had coolant in there because i've broken into the system  a couple of times. I think i'll check the timing next.
Thanks for your help.
David

[Bashfull]

hi,


worth checkinf the inlet manifold gaskets....one could be the wrong way around

[64half]

Thanks for the tip.

David

[dazza]

Don't know if you solved the prob yet, but I stumbled across this today and thought it may be useful for you.

http://www.users.bigpond.com/jack_stands/automotive_advice/cooling_system/engine_cooling.html

:(

[64half]

Its running well now, thanks.
I will still read up though.
David

[66redcoupe]

my 66 289 used to also run hot. I now have a high flow thermostat, modified water pump with a high flow impellor, new 3 row radiator (a custom one with all these little dimples on the cores, for increasing surface area). I only run demineralised water with toyota coolant additive, a 50/50 mix. At present I have a standard reproduction cowl (absolutely useless) and six blade standard fan. My car has air con. Motor is rebuilt. Still gets a little warm in traffic on a stinking hot day. I reckon a custom cowl to increase air flow over the radiator at slow speed in traffic is the go. that will come for me shortly. sooner than later. Plus an expansion tank i think, though not to keen on the asthetics of these. Ok, hope some of this helps, Scott

[64half]

Scott,
I saw the after market plastic shroud and thought it wasn't worth the extra $200. I found the original metal shroud did make a diff. We have had a few hot days in syd and I have had no probs. The system seems to be operating correctly now.
Thanks for the info.
David

[66redcoupe]

Thanks for that David
Is your cowl a genuine part or repro? As i said, mine is the repro part, it leaves about a 10mm gap between the cowl and the radiator. Is yours like this also?
Thanks, scott

[64half]

it is a repro and found the same problem,but i think the brackets are the cause of the gap. I manufactured some shorter brackets to close the gap.
David

[66redcoupe]

Good idea re shortening the brackets, will look at that also
Thanks David

[Macka]

If your core was blocked, it may well be that a gasket has started to come away.  I'd be fitting a hose filter to your top hose and adding coolant to the system.  Make sure that you check the filter regularly.  To check to see if any gases are getting in from the cyclinders, get some one to do a TeeKay check for Carbon Monoxide getting into the system.  Timing can contribute and also make sure that the pump is actually moving the coolant around rather than creating swirl.  Another problem might be the bottom hose contracting under revs, grab it and rev the motor to see how constrictive it is.  I hope some of these help, its a matter of process by illimination.

[64half]

Thanks,the system is now all OK.

[HEVEN67]

:{I am here at work doing a forein order! making a cowl for the fan,"DON'T BELEIVE THE HYPE" :*I have been taking to too many and with no succeass myne runs at 3/4 in traffic but ok on the hyway,I put a huge 80 series land cruiser fan on it it works a treat BUT I am worried that this assembly may be too heavy for the water pump bearing!So i bought a plastic fan from the auto shop with a huge cup in the blade which will most probibly be on tonight if I can get a mate of mine to tig up the fan shroud,But the good news is it works best with a shroud.I have a three core fine which set me back $500 and will be getting what my radiator guru call wetting agent from some place in Mt Druitt,you mix it with water and it suppose to make the water make better contact thith the cast iron. And finaly The radiator dude and the engine builder are telling me that 13psi cap and 95 deg is what I am trying to acheive,
If you need to talk let me know and I will give you my phone number,:a

[tims68]

I've heard that putting a ceramic coating on your headers helps with cooling as it keeps the underbonnet temperature down.  Also a spring in the bottom radiator hose stops it closing up with the vacuum effect at high revs.