Local subframe connectors

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Offline Ash

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Local subframe connectors
« on: March 19, 2012, 06:22:06 pm »
Any body know of anyone in Aus doing subframe connectors? They are not dear to buy in the US but postage is a killer.

I want some for my 69 fastback.
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Offline Frank70

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« Reply #1 on: March 19, 2012, 06:48:23 pm »
Hey Ash.

I have some for my 70 . Got them out of the US a while ago and postage was not a stupid amount. Cant remember the brand now, but from eBay. they are the bolt-on type, but can be welded.

Let me know if you want pics or the brand. they are not in the car yet.

Cheers,
Frank.
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Offline Ash

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« Reply #2 on: March 19, 2012, 06:53:56 pm »
Hey Frank,

A brand would be great, thank you! I can look them up then on ebay.

Are you going to bolt yours or weld them? I was liking the idea of bolt/unbolt but thought by welding them they would a lot stiffer.

Cheers :thumb:
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Offline shaunp

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« Reply #3 on: March 19, 2012, 07:20:45 pm »
Black pony makes them
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Offline Ash

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« Reply #4 on: March 19, 2012, 07:23:22 pm »
Cheers, I'll ask for a price.:thumb:
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Offline Frank70

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« Reply #5 on: March 19, 2012, 07:29:25 pm »
Hi Ash.

They are BMR. But having a quick look on eBay I cant see the ones I have plus the prices have gone up a lot ! I seem to recall paying about $100 plus another $100 for postage.

i was going to bolt them in, but I since bought a welder, so will weld them I think. but the car needs to come apart to do that .. At least the carpet etc. needs to come out.

Cheers,
Frank.
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Offline Ash

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« Reply #6 on: March 19, 2012, 07:34:26 pm »
Thanks for that Frank, I'll have a look at them.

$100 plus $100 post is very reasonable. Some want mid 200's for postage alone. I'd be having a go myself at making them before paying that much.

My car is not far off being nothing but a shell. I want to treat/repair/paint anything while I'm at it so it's the prime time to add these in.

Cheers for looking into that for me :thumb:
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Offline Frank70

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« Reply #7 on: March 19, 2012, 08:13:12 pm »
No probs. Pity you are in NSW otherwise you could grab mine and copy them. they are pretty simple.

Cheers,
Frank.
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Offline Ash

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« Reply #8 on: March 19, 2012, 08:38:36 pm »
I've looked at a few and they seem very straight forward, that's why I can't justify spending so much on postage.

For a couple of hundred it'd be better off then buying the steel and your time.

Don't want to sell yours instead? :smile01:
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Offline Pinto Pete

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« Reply #9 on: March 19, 2012, 08:42:27 pm »
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Offline Ash

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« Reply #10 on: March 19, 2012, 08:45:55 pm »
You bloody beauty, cheers Pete!! :thumb::thumb:
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Offline DUNRITE66

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« Reply #11 on: March 19, 2012, 09:44:25 pm »
SUMMIT...COMP ENGINEERING BOLT OR WELD...$135 PLUS $80 TO FREIGHT.....DHL 3-4 DAY POSTAGE ADD $50 TO FREIGHT...
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Offline TUF40D

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« Reply #12 on: March 19, 2012, 09:51:47 pm »
i have a set you can copy if you'd like im in sydney altho mine are for 67 if there is a differance or not...
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Offline BLKPNY

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« Reply #13 on: March 19, 2012, 09:55:20 pm »
PM's replied to.
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Offline Frank70

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« Reply #14 on: March 19, 2012, 10:19:33 pm »
Quote from: Ash link=topic=17462.msg174162#msg174162
I've looked at a few and they seem very straight forward, that's why I can't justify spending so much on postage.

For a couple of hundred it'd be better off then buying the steel and your time.

Don't want to sell yours instead? :smile01:


Nah Ash, I'll put 'em on eventually. Looks like you have some options now ..

Cheers,
Frank.
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Offline Ash

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« Reply #15 on: March 19, 2012, 10:19:51 pm »
Quote from: dunrite66 link=topic=17462.msg174175#msg174175
SUMMIT...COMP ENGINEERING BOLT OR WELD...$135 PLUS $80 TO FREIGHT.....DHL 3-4 DAY POSTAGE ADD $50 TO FREIGHT...


I didn't realise postage for these through Summit were so cheap.

Quote from: TUF40D link=topic=17462.msg174180#msg174180
i have a set you can copy if you'd like im in sydney altho mine are for 67 if there is a differance or not...


Thanks for the offer TUF40D! The plans Pinto Pete put the link to are actually very good and very descriptive. Explains the whole process quite well.
If I was closer I would drop by for a look, appreciate the offer though!:thumb:
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Offline Ash

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« Reply #16 on: March 19, 2012, 10:21:29 pm »
Quote from: Frank70 link=topic=17462.msg174190#msg174190
Quote from: Ash link=topic=17462.msg174162#msg174162
I've looked at a few and they seem very straight forward, that's why I can't justify spending so much on postage.

For a couple of hundred it'd be better off then buying the steel and your time.

Don't want to sell yours instead? :smile01:


Nah Ash, I'll put 'em on eventually. Looks like you have some options now ..

Cheers,
Frank.


I was just being cheeky, knew they wouldn't be going too far from you :smile01:
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Offline Blue Oval

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« Reply #17 on: March 20, 2012, 07:40:26 am »

 Ash, I made my own from some good plans i got from the net.
They are bolt in as I didn't want to weld on to the frame of the car. That can cause weakness and may need engineering.
The good thing about making them is you can use the material you want and make them stronger. Mine bolt to the outside of the front frame rail as opposed to cutting the end off and inserting them in.
I reckon mine cost me $50 to make.
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Offline Ash

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« Reply #18 on: March 20, 2012, 09:11:06 am »
Hi Blue Oval,
Thanks for the info! I've read a few times that the bolt in method is not the preferred method as it can shift or stretch. How have you found yours over time?
The engineering factor was a concern, I'd like to do all things possible to avoid having to deal with that at all.
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Offline Ac_cobra

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« Reply #19 on: March 20, 2012, 10:06:41 am »
I would like to know if you need the car loaded as in with the engine gearbox ect in it or can they be fitted to a bare car shell prior to paint?

Cheers Greg
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Offline Ash

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« Reply #20 on: March 20, 2012, 10:10:26 am »
That link above outlining how to construct them, states the car needs to be loaded and on all 4 wheels level before tack welding in place.
It also says the preferred method is to weld in. But I'd like to hear more thoughts on both of these points from others too.
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Offline Frank70

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« Reply #21 on: March 20, 2012, 11:15:24 am »
Quote from: Ash link=topic=17462.msg174194#msg174194
Quote from: Frank70 link=topic=17462.msg174190#msg174190
Quote from: Ash link=topic=17462.msg174162#msg174162
I've looked at a few and they seem very straight forward, that's why I can't justify spending so much on postage.

For a couple of hundred it'd be better off then buying the steel and your time.

Don't want to sell yours instead? :smile01:


Nah Ash, I'll put 'em on eventually. Looks like you have some options now ..

Cheers,
Frank.


I was just being cheeky, knew they wouldn't be going too far from you :smile01:


OK Ash.

Well I've had them for about 3 years and yet to use them.
Not sure where they are ...

Cheers,
Frank.
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Offline Ash

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« Reply #22 on: April 01, 2012, 12:39:19 pm »
Still thinking on these subframe connectors and pretty sold on a weld in job. But I'm hesitant about whether I should do it now or after the blueslip. Anybody here in NSW been through a blueslip with them fitted? I'd hate to have it all done and get rejected on that then have to go through an engineer, I'd rather fit them after I have it registered if that may be the case at all.

I can never see a pinkslip being an issue, not concerned there at all.
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Offline Pinto Pete

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« Reply #23 on: April 01, 2012, 05:22:22 pm »
me..., I'd wait till it's on the road. but if you are stripping it to a bare shell there other ways to go.
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Offline Moz

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« Reply #24 on: April 02, 2012, 02:59:57 pm »
I ended up using the bolt on type and
bolted and welded them in,
as well as torque boxes
The Joker is very spoilt
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