Author Topic: 5.OL engine.. (Read 6620 times)

Bashfull · « **on:** September 11, 2011, 10:16:40 pm »

i started to think about replaacing the cam in my old 289..

but i am thinking i might get another engine that only has been built once in its life..and oonly had oil changes...

i was thinking about running edelbrock performer 600 holley.
original, k-code manifolds.

q1 what engine is the best to use.. au ed ??
q2 what sort of horsepower should i aim for thinking of a mild port original head..slighltyl lumpy cam...
only a sunday cruiser c4 style wheels in a 66 coupe..

Macka · « **Reply #1 on:** September 11, 2011, 10:33:11 pm »

Bashful, it sounds like you need to invest in a few tickets of the MOCA Victoria raffle. Win yourself an engine ready to go with all the bits you want.

moe · « **Reply #2 on:** September 12, 2011, 02:16:19 am »

AU2/3 would be the pick of the bunch (or even a T series factory stroker).
But the limiting factor is that you want to run K code exhaust manifolds, and won't work too well with the AU2/3 motor (due to spark plug angles being different).

If it is only a Sunday cruiser, any V8 from EB through to AU1 would be a healthy proposition.

MERDO-FORD · « **Reply #3 on:** May 15, 2012, 08:21:25 pm »

I've just done this this with my 66 coupe...an Eb Fairmont 5 lt with all modern age shit removed and all my original 302 gear bolted up + a few nice shiny new bits...take a look.

66FBK · « **Reply #4 on:** May 15, 2012, 09:59:09 pm »

Nice.. I have noticed you are running your 3 bolt harmonic balancer. Hope you know you have a 50 oz balanced motor now and you can't use your early 28 oz flex plate or balancer. If you are running the original bellhousing I think it should have a 157 tooth flex plate. If you have the original 5L 164 tooth plate you can take them both in to a machine shop and have it matched balanced. The 5L harmonic balancer will have to go also. They are 4 bolt fto the pulleys. The 5L roller motors are a good thing. They spin like a top. I have one in my 66 and in also in my 65 XP Ford. If you leave that balancer on it will shake the sh#t out out car when it runs.
Dave

MERDO-FORD · « **Reply #5 on:** May 18, 2012, 08:33:48 pm »

O.K Thanks i was gunna run the original gear....balancer coz my gilmer wont fit the 4 bolter....and original flex plate to bolt up to original box and converter....so i have to take my flex plate in n my balancer is there any reason i cant get more weight added to my balancer so i can still run my gilmer.?

phaseautos · « **Reply #6 on:** May 18, 2012, 09:57:56 pm »

Quote from: MERDO-FORD link=topic=15697.msg179828#msg179828

O.K Thanks i was gunna run the original gear....balancer coz my gilmer wont fit the 4 bolter....and original flex plate to bolt up to original box and converter....so i have to take my flex plate in n my balancer is there any reason i cant get more weight added to my balancer so i can still run my gilmer.?

you can but done right means rotating assembly balance = engine in bits

years ago there was some one making retro balancers to fit and they recomended only use with a balance and rebuild

66FBK · « **Reply #7 on:** May 18, 2012, 11:12:40 pm »

If you can't use the the 5L 50oz balancer & flex plate , keep them for reference. You can buy an after market 50oz 3bolt balancer & 50oz 157 tooth flex plate. Try CJ Pony parts or an American speed shop in Oz. you can take your 28oz 157t flex plate and 50oz 164t plate in the a good machine shop and they can match balance the 28oz to 50oz. I think they add a bit and take metal off the opposite side. I had one matched a few years back. Found out the hard way. Had the new motor in for 2 days before it had to come out again. From around '85 on the Windsor motors went to 50oz balance and went to the 351 firing order.

shaunp · « **Reply #8 on:** June 12, 2012, 08:56:11 pm »

You could get some heavy metal added to the balancer, but probably cheaper to buy a new gilmer gear with 4 holes. You could spin the gear you have in a lathe and scribe an arch, then redrill it to 4 hole, pretty easy to do. No trouble to balance a 28oz flywheel or flex plate to 50oz, just weld some weight to a flex plate and take weight away from the opersite side on the fly wheel, balancer is harder as I have said you would need to add mallory metal. Redrill the gilmer that's what i would do, or throw it away and put V belts on it, they are a waste of time anyway, just like gear drive cam gears. Also if the engine you have had a serp belt the water pump will likly turn the wrong way, and you'll cook it, you need to run the early water pump.

66FBK · « **Reply #9 on:** June 12, 2012, 10:22:22 pm »

Looks like the water pump in the photo is an early type. I run 2 x 5L roller motors in my cars. The Mustang has a V belt 4 bolt pulley setup. The other runs a short serpentine around crank / alt/ early water pump. You have to change to timing gear case if you want to use the early water pumps. The bolt holes are different on the early pumps. The 5L timing gear cases don't have the manual fuel pump mounts either. I love the 5L roller cam motors. They are a good base to build on.

MERDO-FORD · « **Reply #10 on:** June 12, 2012, 11:32:16 pm »

Yeah changed the timimg case....needed to enlarge two bolt holes for the locating lugs on either side of case....no biggy..1/2" drill bit.

5.OL engine..

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Author Topic: 5.OL engine.. (Read 6620 times)