Well unfortunately this old T code was in need of some PLASMA attention. Everything on the car that previously repaired was done by a backyard guru who watched way to much Overhaulin. The mustang 2 disc brake front end was welded in a good 2” outa wack and way off centre from left and right…was one of the only things worth saving
We cut the arse end off to make a wall mount. Had intended to make a couch but the Swede cut out the rear lower quarter to donate to the ute so wall mount it is
For those that ever wondered what the best way to take off the chrome on the gutters with out damageing it….well, belive it not a can opener would probably be the last thing you think of but it happens to be the best way of taking it off with no damage.
I use a wooden paint stirrer placed on the chrome so the opener doesn’t make any marks and then you just hook the opener under the lip of the chrome every few inches and compress very gently lifting the chrome away from the rail…..I start at the front working my way to the rear window. When you get near the rear window corner, I stop and start from the rear bottom working my way to the top corner as it’s a tight bend.
Once you get to the corner, I use a little extra care….two or three compress’s and whala!!..its off with no damage…thought I would share that with ya as its one of those things that is probably irrelevant to some but helpful for others…took some pics for you aswell so you can see how its done
With the car finally cut up and out of our way, I tacked up a few spots in the floor pan and went onto the body work
With Johns 68 out for the roof and the weather outside looking like rain, I decided to bead blast and rebuild the heater box out of the 2 I had floating around. I had to use 2 in order to make one, but that’s how it rolls. The door on one was toast but the case was in great shape.
I cut the pop rivets off of both door’s and swapped them over. I had to find a way to re attach the door where the rivets were so I used small bolts with some lock tight then cut off the excess thread. When you do this, you have to make sure the flap on the inside moves freely…in this case it didn’t, so I hit it with a die grinder and cut a cemi circle groove where the rounded bolt head (from the door) was interfering with the internal steel flap.
For those that want to paint the heater box when doing this….DONT!!....use black shoe polish and polish it like a pair of shoes….works a treat. Paint will eventually flake off unless your heater box is porous and you only give it a dust coat of black to get an even blackness
After blasting and painting all the pieces, a new seal kit added and a FULL day…..its done. Wouldn’t believe such a small item would take that long but it does. Mainly waiting for paint to dry but still. Imagine paying someone $65 an hour to restore your heater box…WTF!! 
Its Saturday today and Im trying to get motivated to go down to work on it but After reading a few threads on mustang forums, Im torn between the colour now.
Originally I was going with a (BMW) deep metallic dark green (similar to Highland green but more silver metalic) with a tan (more camel) interior. The tan interior is a keeper as I already have it but Sheri is stuck on that candy apple red colour from the house of colours.
So Im thinkin, dark green, dark green with Silver Shelby stripes or a deep candy apple sorta colour with gold Shelby stripes that may look nice with the tan/camel interior
I have one week to make up my mind
What do you think?
Matt
