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Ford Mustang Instrument Panel Troubleshooting

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A67PNY:
Hey beancounter if your clock needs repair
try these people....

http://www.ottoinstruments.com.au/repairs.htm

CPU:

--- Quote from: beancounter link=topic=12082.msg130661#msg130661 ---no mention of the clock?
which is the only thing not working on my dash.
apart from only having one half of the panel lit up
any suggestions?
--- End quote ---


Better late than never :giggle:

We found an article or two and posted it here http://mustang.org.au/forum/viewthread.php?tid=13248

my 390:
Thanks CPU

I just fitted dakota gauges and the engine won't start.  A search on here found this and presto.  Disconnectingnthe old tacho means the engine wont run.  Temporarily put the old tach back and it runs again. The above article put me right.  Now to find a work around. New topic coming

StephenSLR:
Can someone explain the ammeter in my 65; Deluxe (Pony) dash?

From what I understand it's supposed to hit D when discharging and C when charging; in mine the needle always sits dead centre between D and C with ignition on or off.

Just trying to figure out if it works or is broken.

s

BAC:
There are a couple of good articles on this subject to Google up if you want more detail, but the short version is these things were poorly designed/implemented by Ford and never had a chance of working properly from day one.

The ammeters are designed to shunt a small portion of the current that flows between the alternator/regulator and the battery.  The problem is for the needle to show any significant deflection it requires more current flowing through the ammeter than the resistance of the wiring and the gauge itself will allow under normal loads.  I forget the exact value but it worked out you'd need somewhere around 100 amps flowing to/from the battery to get significant needle movement.

It is generally acknowledged that it is much easier and just as useful to implement a voltmeter rather than an ammeter and that is what Ford could/should have done...

If someone was really keen on getting an ammeter to work, they'd need to buy a modern gauge with much lower internal resistance and run thicker, lower resistance wire from the gauge back to the splice points in the wiring harness.

Edit: Here's an excellent post on the subject from allfordmustangs.com that offers re-wiring suggestions if you want to try to get your factory ammeter needle moving:

http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/classic-tech/233652-1966-mustang-ammeter-wiring.html

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