Mustang Owners Club Australia Forum
Technical & General Discussion Area => Mustang Chat Room => Topic started by: mungus on June 22, 2015, 02:14:19 pm
-
Noob here, so apologies if this has been covered elsewhere... :smash:
I'm an experienced restorer / builder but now I'm looking to do my first Mustang. Driven a genuine old 68' GT390 fastback in the states recently and loved it (lots of RRS Ozzie gear fitted underneath BTW, bit ironic I thought, me going to the USA to drive a 1/2 Ozzie stang!) Thing is I've never imported and rego'd a US car before and am looking to make an authentic looking Bullit replica (with mildly modded FE390, Tremec TKO 600, Torque Thrusts, RRS bits underneath etc).
Please understand that no offence in advance, but I'm not interested in buying off an OZ dealer as I know what these things cost stateside and have the contacts to find what I want. Its not that I think they shouldn't be able to make a profit, or that others shouldn't gratefully use them to avoid hassle, delay or a lack of skills, but just that I'm not into paying that kind of premium for something I can do myself.
Also I can't see any point buying a decent rolling car to modify as I'm just paying big $$$ for the looks someone else liked and for parts I'd only bin. So I am toying with the idea of importing a Dynacorn fastback body and going from scratch.
I travel overseas a bit for work and have imported many parts exc USA for other projects, so I'm comfortable in the general sense. The only issue I can see in this nanny state of ours (I'm in VIC if that's any worse!), is how to register the finished car?
I'm guessing that if its an all "new" build then presumably one can't really go the private pre 1989 import route, as effectively you are just homebuilding something like an RRS Mustang... I can see major headaches going that route, come time for officialdom! :nopity:
So the option of importing a buggered 1967/68 fastback donor car is being considered. Presumably this would allow retention of the donors ID via a Salvage title etc? Following the build and the VASS has been passed, I am gueesing it should be straight forward, am I right? (Hoping a VASS shouldn't be too hard as its a new RHS body and the FE390 being OEM option).
Can anyone see any hiccups? Appreciate everyone's time and apologies if these seem dumb questions.
Regards to all,
mungus :flag:
-
Hi all, :pepper:
Just joined with the plan of building an authentic looking, 390 powered Bullit replica.
Have a detailed shopping list ready, just figuring out how to do it now. (import a donor vs Dynacorn etc).
Have seen plenty that fall short of the "authentic" claim, looking to correct that with mine (pride comes before a fall I hear some say!).
Anyway, hope to chat to some of you soon. No doubt there are miles of knowledge to be had here.
I'm located in Central Vic, about 7 kms from "Just Mustangs" in Riddell's Creek. (Hi Russell)
:flag:
-
Dynacorn RHD bodies are available here in Aus from Blue oval Garage,However going that route means it will only ever be considered, legally, as a Kit Car for rego, insurance and emission control. In every respect it will have to conform to current ADR standards. There is also argument whether it is admissible as a membership car for the Mustang Owners Club as it is a modern car that LOOKS like an old classic. The hassles may not be worth it.It may be less problematic to source a rolling project and go from there. Just worth thinking about. Good luck with it, whichever way you decide to go. Personally, I think the '68 is the best, tho I am biased.
Cheers, Ron B
-
I agree with Ron, you cannot bring in a donee body and transfer vin numbers to a dynacorn body, this would be considered re birthing and is illegal, others on the forum may comment on this.
In my view, it would be easier to bring in a rolling body, but you also need to ensure the import declaration allows for it to be registered, so I doubt it could be imported as a parts car, or racing car etc.
Good luck with it, and keep us all posted on the build.
-
I replied to your other post, but forgot to say WELCOME! Build it how you want, as realistic as you can or a tribute car. I read a story on the Bullitt car recently. It was debadged because Ford didn't want their name associated with street chases, so it carried no identifying markings at all. It was a '68 GT390 with 4 wheel drum brakes, no power assist on anything, even steering.Even the chrome side scoop ornaments were removed.
Cheers, Ron B
-
It may be less problematic to source a rolling project and go from there.
In my view, it would be easier to bring in a rolling body, but you also need to ensure the import declaration allows for it to be registered, so I doubt it could be imported as a parts car, or racing car etc.
:agree: In the long run you will have way less headaches importing a rolling project car than building one from scratch.
Can't remember for sure but I think there are some minimum requirements for a car to be considered as a complete car under the private import scheme - e.g. the car may be required to have an engine and/or tranny fitted. If so, it would make sense to try and source a car that is as close in spec as possible to what you want to build, regardless of how knackered it is.
Also be aware you have to submit current photos of the car you want to import with the application paperwork, so it would be prudent to find something that at least looks like a complete car (e.g. no panels missing, etc.)
Good hunting!
-
Thanks everyone for the responses. I wonder how Dynacorn gets on then, as it seems they are often aimed at restorers. So Legalese aside I'd imagine there have been a few build plates transferred onto new corn shells...
I have found a few ratty 67 and 68 fastbacks in my searches, so that is an option, just that the idea of paying big $ for a rust bucket which will have many OEM parts binned isn't overly attractive. There is even a genuine 68 S code with matching numbers engine in CA right now for $24K USD asking, (well known dealer), most parts are there but it's a basket case. There's also a part of me that thinks that bastardising a genuine S code into a restomodded fun car is a bit sacrilegious! Being as how they not that common anymore.
I do want to avoid the ADR's as they bugger a lot of what I want to achieve, so perhaps in hindsight buying a lesser spec'd 68 fastback and building my Bullit is the way to go?
-
Thanks Ron. Yup I have collected a few stories in my Bullit project research. Haven't heard the corporate debadging story before but wouldn't surprise me! The other stories I've read said disc front / drum rear but who knows. One version says McQueen did some basic mods to both the studio cars, and was certainly not shy going into the corners, so I reckon drums would have been pretty scary!
My plan is to be as authentic on both the exterior and interior as humanly possible.
The engine will remain a FE 390 but with the edelbrock heads, MSD ignition, headers, etc to make it less of a boat anchor. I'm also a bit terrified of the OEM sixties running gear with that much power, so that'll all be tossed for RRS stuff. Adding vintage air's AC kit, etc to make it everyday useable.
You get the idea....
I appreciate the other tributes but for me unless the big basics are there, it isn't a Bullit. (390, manual, correct trim etc, exterior per movie etc).
I have management approval in principal, so here goes!
-
If you are going down the dynacorn shell route then I am pretty sure you need to meet the current ADRs including RHD.
-
If you are going down the dynacorn shell route then I am pretty sure you need to meet the current ADRs including RHD.
Perhaps this was meant for the other thread? Appreciated anyway.
Yes it seems the new body shell idea is not acceptable to the bureaucracy. A shame there's not some way to utilise what can only improve on the safety of the finished product, especially as it's now a FORD endorsed part. I wonder how the MGB crowd were treated when the new roadster bodyshells came out in the late 1980's? I know if some that were definitely used to restore rotten cars...
Being a bit like grampa's axe. If you replace every other panel except the firewall it's the same car, but the moment you replace the tin under the build plate it's been "rebirthed". Go figure...
My "Bullit" will be RHD regardless. I've planned for that and it's certainly not impossible with the parts kits around. Tried driving a RHD (UK) car in LHD Europe once, not enjoyable!
-
I would agree with you about buying something like a rolling shell or the like, here where you can readily eyeball it or something well inspected in USA. Dynacorn bodies are recognised in USA (as my understanding has it) as replacement parts authorised by Ford, so they are allowed, there, to use them for restoration, but not here.
-
the idea of paying big $ for a rust bucket which will have many OEM parts binned isn't overly attractive.
You wouldn't have to bin them - there is a decent market here for OE parts in good condition.
-
i know of a bullitt replica in nsw, its rhd, and its very well done, the owner is willing to sell. this was about a year ago, he has had the car for at least 20 years i believe. but i guess u want to build it yourself and go through the "joy" of it
-
I would buy a good rust free car either from here or from the states . One that's run down but rust free they are around ,but no matter which way you are going to go it won't be cheap . If you are serious talk to Barnett468 (Mike) he might be able to locate one in the US ,or Shermatt of cause .
-
Welcome to the forum
-
Check the Aus market thoroughly and be patient. The difference in the dollar etc makes it more favourable if you can find one here.
-
I replied to your other post, but forgot to say WELCOME! Build it how you want, as realistic as you can or a tribute car. I read a story on the Bullitt car recently. It was debadged because Ford didn't want their name associated with street chases, so it carried no identifying markings at all. It was a '68 GT390 with 4 wheel drum brakes, no power assist on anything, even steering.Even the chrome side scoop ornaments were removed.
Cheers, Ron B
Ron I don't believe it was ford that didn't want to associate their name with the movie in fact ford was involved in the making of bullitt as they were a Warner bros car contractor,originally the chase was going to be done with two fords but it was McQueen who convinced both Warner Bros and Ford to put another manufacture in the movie but Ford and Warners really didn't like the idea of using another manufacture so McQueen with the help of another friend and stunt driver Bill Hickman decided to acquire two dodge chargers a blue automatic, which was not an R/T, while the main film vehicle was a full-house 440 Magnum finished in light yellow both cars were painted black. It was also McQueen who had his own ideas for the Mustang. It was McQueen who removed the trim and had the mustang logos removed the grille painted black and mag wheels fitted. McQueen’s fanaticism for detail went down to a special Secura steering wheel, which he had custom upholsterer Tony Nancy trim in black leather you are right with the drums and no power assist both the charger and the stang had the suspension beefed up with heavy-duty springs and dampers, plus strengthened pick-up points. McQueen demanded realism in the car chase scenes originally it was going to be done on the back lots of the studio but McQueen wanted no part of it he enlisted. Bud Ekins who was Steve's double in the great escape (yes he was the one who jumped the bike over the fence) McQueen did most of the stunts and mistakes in bullet I say mistakes because the scene where Steve over shoots the road and lit the tires up in reverse was a mistake.It was kept in the final editing because of the realism that Steve wanted Bud also contributed to the more dangerous stunts like going 60 mph down chestnut street in San Francisco which was to say the least would of been a hair raising experience. Bud also did the motor bike scene where he had to lay down the bike which caused the mustang to spin.
It was also said that the chargers out gunned the mustangs in a straight line however the mustangs were better in the handling according to the stunt drivers but all the cars had for safety the beefed up suspension the Chargers each car had a 375bhp, four- barrel 440cu in Magnum V8 the magnum wheels were swapped for steel wheels to add to the dramatic effect when cornering and with 375 bhp the car lit up the tires.(the whoops in the movie count how many times the charger looses its hubcaps and btw check the same VW bug how many times its also in the movie. Both mustangs were 320bhp four speeds again with beefed up suspension.
There were two mustangs used which had back to back serial numbers one of the mustangs reportedly was sold to a employee of Warner bros and never to be heard of again. The other car reportedly turned up for sale in the Los Angeles times for 6000 U.S. McQueen again reportedly sourced the person who bought the car but Steve`s money couldn't buy it .Steve sadly died in 1980 he never was able to buy the car. Reports of this car was that it sat in a hay barn in Ohio where it deteriorated then it was sold only to recent reports the car was in another barn in Tennessee. David Kuntz (becareful how you say this) who is a avid Bullitt guru apparently has photos of the car in its deteriorated state even so the car is estimated to be valued at several million dollars.
So what happened to the chargers unlike the mustangs no files were kept two rumours exist one of them the non R/T charger was written off in the final explosion scene the other car the actual R/T was sold back to the dealer where they came from repainted again in light yellow and sold on...the other rumour that both chargers were scrapped because of insurance reasons however if the rumour is correct why didnt the mustangs get the same treatment.
There is a lot of speculation of what happened to all the cars its like the Loch Ness monster reports from time to time come up that people know of the cars have photo of the cars . Some people say they just do not exist that they were all scrapped... but I personally like to think that somewhere in a barn sits Bullitt the most iconic car that any movie has produced and one day it will surface be bought, restored to its former hard edged stone chipped glory for another generation to witness and lets not forget that iconic charger the bad attitude fully black villains car the perfect sinister menace in the rear vision mirror...I hope it was sold back to the car dealer resprayed yellow and sold to some unsuspecting car buyer who drove it to church every Sunday who if he or she checked under the carpet he or she might see a couple of holes in the floor and wonder why they are there? little knowing that the cameras were put there and that this car was the menace of BULLITT.
btw spot the Bullitt buff :)
-
I think a few restorers have pondered the same ideas but the import regulations narrow down your options. Still at least you can still import an early classic car here unlike a lot of other countries. The car and motoring clubs have lobbied hard over the years to allow pre-emission out dated LHD cars into the country. Up to the mid 80s you still had to convert a LHD car to RHD to register it here. They have just started to clamp down on modified cars being brought in under the banner of original classic cars like 30s Ford hot rods which are heavily modified. A few guys on this forum have run into trouble with bringing in Mustangs that have minor mods like 4 wheel dics and rack & pinion steering etc. All safe upgrades, but they don't like it and getting and engineer to certify someone else work is hard. My advice is to find something straight and running (even a T code 6cyl) and run it thru rego and then hit it with the big stick. Once it is has a rego plate on it you can modify it like any car on the road. Good luck on your search. Your project sounds great.
-
am looking to make an authentic looking Bullitt replica (RRS bits underneath, etc).
I've heard bad things about the RRS setup.
I had the TCP one already installed in mine when I bought it and I've heard these are better.
http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/steering.html (http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/steering.html)
I've also heard, rebuilding the steering box is the best way to go from those that ditched their RRS setup.
s
-
Gateway Classic in Missouri built a Bullitt Mustang for Chad McQueen.
You may find some of this usefull
http://www.gatewaymustang.com/chad-mcqueens-1968-bullitt-mustang/ (http://www.gatewaymustang.com/chad-mcqueens-1968-bullitt-mustang/)
http://www.autoblog.com/2011/03/16/gateway-classic-mustang-to-produce-limited-edition-steve-mcqueen/#image-9 (http://www.autoblog.com/2011/03/16/gateway-classic-mustang-to-produce-limited-edition-steve-mcqueen/#image-9)
I visited them when I did Route 66 and they told me they could build one from scratch with Dyncorn body and RHD for Aus., not sure if it would comply to current ADR's though they'd have no problem restoring and old one I'm sure.
s
-
I bow to superior info! :bow: Well done.
-
I bow to superior info! :bow: Well done.
lol no way superior mate two movies as a kid got me involved in everything cars....Bullitt and Aloha Bobby and Rose...I was mesmerized with Bullitt the stunts the cars still to this very day...Bullitt is still one of my favorite movies for a car chase the acting is bad the music is bad but what a hell of a car scene. I have just read a lot about the movie and the behind scenes.
top 5 car chases in order for me
1 BULLITT
2 THE FRENCH CONNECTION
3 GONE IN 60 SECONDS (the original)
4 THE BLUES BROTHERS
5 GONE IN SIXTY SECONDS (the new)
:burnout:
-
The Healey Factory in Mitcham has this Bullitt clone for sale at $75K.
http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/listing/1967-ford-mustang-fastback/ (http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/listing/1967-ford-mustang-fastback/)
-
Thanks for the replies. I'd rather build my own, not just for the enjoyment of it but because my budget doesn't stretch to dealer prices for finished cars.
I have a pretty decent workshop (150 m2 barn, gantry, nice welder, blaster, painting gear , machine shop stuff, etc) and am happy to tackle most jobs, plus the learning of the workings of my car is a big thing to me. No better way than building it yourself!
Looks like a roller is the way. I agree that any fairly complete 67/68 fastback should do, as I'm making a non standard car, so paying S code premiums is a waste of $.
Have seen some for sale now, albeit real junk piles. But then as I'm doing a nut and bolt job that's not the end if the world.
Shipping wise several places pitch at around $3500 AUD for USA to Melbourne. Sound about right from anyone's experience?
A related question, anyone know of folks having their permit to import refused?
Would be a bummer to buy a car then be told I can't ship it! Can't see why if u fill the form as directed etc? But thought I'd ask in case...
-
The Healey Factory in Mitcham has this Bullitt clone for sale at $75K.
http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/listing/1967-ford-mustang-fastback/ (http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/listing/1967-ford-mustang-fastback/)
Thanks mate, appreciate the reply and I had a look; it's a nice car, but for me anyway, it's not really a Bullit replica. Just too many big things incorrect (motor, trans, etc). Plus over my budget. Nice to look though...
-
I've heard bad things about the RRS setup.
I had the TCP one already installed in mine when I bought it and I've heard these are better.
I've also heard, rebuilding the steering box is the best way to go from those that ditched their RRS setup.
OK, good to know, it's always good to hear other views before buying. :thumb:
I do like some of TCP's stuff, however I can't say I've heard those RRS comments. In fact I've read one high end restomod story which quoted one of the best things they did as being fitting a RRS powered steering rack...
Certainly quite a few respected professional mustang builders stateside use RRS gear. So personally I'd be taking criticism of RRS's stuff with a grain of salt and wanting some justification on solid technical points before I wrote them off.
-
So personally I'd be taking criticism of RRS's stuff with a grain of salt and wanting some justification on solid technical points before I wrote them off.
I absolutely agree, in fact it'd be wise to start a separate thread here asking for opinions on steering, suspension, etc. I'm sure you will get first some hand experience.
One common practice is people will replace their clapped out old steering box with a brand new rack and pinion and comment on how miraculous the difference is. Well of course; they are comparing worn out junk with something brand new. The real comparison would be to compare a brand new or reco'd steering box with a brand new rack & pinion otherwise it's not comparing oranges with oranges.
Myself, I only know what a TCP R&P feels like and can't tell you how the other options compare.
s
-
Looks like a roller is the way. I agree that any fairly complete 67/68 fastback should do, as I'm making a non standard car, so paying S code premiums is a waste of $.
Have seen some for sale now, albeit real junk piles. But then as I'm doing a nut and bolt job that's not the end if the world.
I know you'd prefer a crap heap that you can put your stamp on with your build, but there's a nice looking '68 on Ebay at the moment that might end up going for around $40K AUD: http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261931835787 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261931835787)
You may be hard pressed to get a junker of a standard you could be confident of getting import approval for much less and there would be several grand worth of drivetrain and other parts you could sell on locally to help reduce the net cost.
Shipping wise several places pitch at around $3500 AUD for USA to Melbourne. Sound about right from anyone's experience?
Depends if it's an 'all in' price or not. If it includes USA paperwork, ocean freight, marine insurance and all Aussie customs and brokerage charges then it's a good price. If it's just to get it as far as the docks here then no. PM me if you'd like details of the shippers and customs people I used.
Also be aware that USA inland road freight to port can easily add $1,000 USD or more on top of everything else.
A related question, anyone know of folks having their permit to import refused?
Would be a bummer to buy a car then be told I can't ship it! Can't see why if u fill the form as directed etc?
This was the thing about importing that pissed me off more than anything else - it's such a chicken and egg situation.
You are advised not to commit to a car until you have import approval for it, but in the 2 - 4 weeks it takes to get the approval, you may well have lost the car to someone else. Obviously the more of a bargain a vehicle is, the more likely you are to miss out! Not too many people will hold a car on a small deposit for a month while you cool your heels waiting for import approval to come through... :ouch:
And people do apparently get knocked back sometimes - mainly if there is doubt as to the bona fides and/or viability of the vehicle as a registerable proposition (parts cars are a big no-no).
-
Thanks Brian, sage advice.
So approvals wise, does it have to look like a runner? Can you call customs for advice or are they above speaking to the public these days; "read the website" line etc.
Most of the 68' fast backs I've found are complete rust buckets, but basically complete.
-
Gateway Classic in Missouri built a Bullitt Mustang for Chad McQueen.
You may find some of this usefull
I visited them when I did Route 66 and they told me they could build one from scratch with Dyncorn body and RHD for Aus., not sure if it would comply to current ADR's though they'd have no problem restoring and old one I'm sure.
Yup seen that one on the web, several stories on it in fact. Nice car but again to me it's not a real Bullit replica. No 390, bigger wheels etc. Initially I was surprised to see that happen, being the man's son, but I guess being a McQueen he can make his own Bullit and it'll still be regarded as something special!
-
Depends if it's an 'all in' price or not. If it includes USA paperwork, ocean freight, marine insurance and all Aussie customs and brokerage charges then it's a good price. If it's just to get it as far as the docks here then no.
True, there are even dock fees once the car is here; if you want the car taken from the ship to the warehouse and released, plus cleaning fees if the car doesn't pass quarantine.
Here's some reading:
http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,10569.0.html (http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,10569.0.html)
s
-
I can't say I've heard those RRS comments.
http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=7014.0 (http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php?topic=7014.0)
s
-
Thanks Steve,
Food for thought indeed. Although perhaps it was a batch issue they are over now?
To be fair all manufacturers can be afflicted by that sort of thing.
I'd be surprised if they were all like that as they've had several good reviews from the press and known builders etc.
I do like the subframe idea with the TCP rack too. I guess I am drawn to RRS a bit by them being local, as it can be a real pain chasing problems in the USA etc.
I've also been impressed by the RRS stuff I seen in the flesh. Nicely made and looks like it should do the business.
In the end I'll be buying a fair pile of their stuff so I may go to SYD and have a face to face with RRS and check out their stuff before I buy it all.
-
Although perhaps it was a batch issue they are over now?
I'm not sure; I'm only going from what I've heard and I thought I'd share. I'm sure when all the kinks are ironed out the RRS racks do the job, otherwise they'd be out of business.
s
-
True, there are even dock fees once the car is here; if you want the car taken from the ship to the warehouse and released, plus cleaning fees if the car doesn't pass quarantine.
Yup - forgot to mention those little extras...
I reckon the ideal is to have a US company manage the export clearance and getting it on the ship and an Aussie company look after things once it lands on the docks here. That way each end is handled by a local expert which hopefully minimizes the chance of hiccups along the way - just my 2c.
So approvals wise, does it have to look like a runner? Can you call customs for advice or are they above speaking to the public these days; "read the website" line etc.
I've only been through the sausage grinder once and by no means an expert. What I do know is since the import approval process is handled by the Department of Infrastructure, there's no real point talking to Customs. Once you have the approval, Customs is obliged to let it through unless there are other issues found (e.g. quarantine, contraband, etc.)
Dunno if you can talk to anyone from DoI for advice, but my gut feel would be you will have a much better chance of avoiding any hassles if the car at least looks like a complete running vehicle in the photos (e.g. all panels fitted and same colour paint, glass in all windows, etc.) If it looks like a parts car or a pile of rust on wheels I think you may strike trouble...
-
Well just to make sure I called Dept of Infastructure today and the bloke told me it doesn't have to be a runner at all. As long as the photos and description satisfy their resident engineers that it's a complete car, with no serious mods, it's OK.
I even specifically asked about a resto project with some of the car in bits, and he said its no issue as long as they can see it's all there and the major parts are standard looking. Said they do quite a few basket cases just like that...
Also called that husband and wife mustang importing / sales team in NSW, that someone recommended here, (Forgotten her name now), and they seemed nice. $2800 all inc except AQIS if required, ex LAX to SYD.
Bidding on a 1967 fastback 289 manual now. It's a rusted out sh*t box basically, but it is complete. Don't think I'll get it, as it's got 5 days to go and already $8K AUD, plus it's East Coast so that's another grand... Might have to cool my heels and wait for the right one.
-
Bringing in a roller / no motor is fine ,but the shippers hate them but that their problem . 2800 is a good price but make sure that's all up plus GST on car ( not including what you said) and make sure that's in a box/ container and not roll on roll off .
-
Yup it's in a container. She emphasised they pay more for decent packing etc.
GST would be my problem in any case...
That' price is shipping, paperwork, approvals, processing etc.
Add 1K USD for getting it over to LAX then maybe $500 to my home from SYD.
So in round numbers I'm looking at $5K to get that particular car home.
Curious as to what folks here think a complete but rusted out 67 fastback manual would go for... There seems quite a bit of interest in the dung pile I'm bidding on now!
-
About 1k in USD would be about right but to long beach not LAX :grin: unless they plan on flying it over :grin: . Price wise who knows ,but a good rust free restorer should be around 20k I would think these days as the prices have gone through the roof in the last 12 mths or so . Get onto Barnett 468 and ask him as he is in southern CA .
-
Thanks Steve,
Food for thought indeed. Although perhaps it was a batch issue they are over now?
To be fair all manufacturers can be afflicted by that sort of thing.
I'd be surprised if they were all like that as they've had several good reviews from the press and known builders etc.
Dont waste your money on RRS. Ive had all sorts of dramas with mine. If i had my time again i would of recoed the original gear. Ive learnt to live with the truck like turning circle. I know personally of a few others that have had problems with RRS racks. Poor build quality, not easy to install, parts missing etc.
-
$2800 all inc except AQIS if required, ex LAX to SYD.
Don't now how they are able to do everything for that price. Just to break it down a little with some (not too conservative) numbers:
- Sea freight in shared container: $1500
- Marine insurance: $300
- Wharf charges in Australia: $500
- Brokerage/Customs charges: $1000
That's already $3300 without any allowance for USA export inspection/processing, local Customs lodgement/inspection fees, bonded storage, etc. And also without a dollar of profit for the people who are bringing the car in for you.
Oh and rollers usually cost more for shipping and USA inland transport.
I would be asking lots of questions...
-
Shipping wise several places pitch at around $3500 AUD for USA to Melbourne. Sound about right from anyone's experience?
I paid $3k in 2011 to ship my car from LA to Melbourne. I used Brock Classic Imports and they handled everything for me, all I had to do was turn up at Lilydale and drive the car home. Because they are registered Customs agents, you can buy the car and they are able to start shipping without getting the approval first. I suggest you give Danny Brock a call and ask some questions (mornings are the best time to get hold of him) and I'm sure he will be able to help you.
Buying a car from New Hampshire added US$1500 to the cost of shipping, so if you can find one in LA you're on a winner.
-
Because they are registered Customs agents, you can buy the car and they are able to start shipping without getting the approval first.
Anyone can arrange to get a car shipped without import approval, but you can't get it released by Customs without one. So in general it's not a great idea to do it - if there's problems with getting the approval you may end up paying big $ for storage fees or worst case have to re-export the car or see it crushed...
Buying a car from New Hampshire added US$1500 to the cost of shipping, so if you can find one in LA you're on a winner.
If you do find a bargain on the East Coast, some transport companies can ship via Port of New Jersey.
-
Thanks everyone, good answers.
There certainly seems to be a range of prices for similar services there.
Id imagine the brokerage would be where savings are made.
Anyway waiting for another quote to come in.
Besides I haven't bought a car yet!
The only fastback project I've found is a pile of rust but it is original and complete and less than 9k AUD, so perhaps I'll get that, but not if the auction goes any higher...
I've priced the panels from mustang depot (anywhere better?), and it may be doable but if prefer something easier!
We will see!
-
Anyone can arrange to get a car shipped without import approval, but you can't get it released by Customs without one. So in general it's not a great idea to do it - if there's problems with getting the approval you may end up paying big $ for storage fees or worst case have to re-export the car or see it crushed...
If you do find a bargain on the East Coast, some transport companies can ship via Port of New Jersey.
Yes it can be a risk shipping without an approval, but as Brocks were handling everything from pick up from the customer, US transport, shipping and Customs clearance, approval is assured as long as I had a clear title to the car and it wasn't outrageously modified.
I looked into shipping from the East Coast, but due to the extra cost and that so few ships sail to Oz from there, I didn't want my car sitting on the docks for weeks waiting for a ship.
-
I looked into shipping from the East Coast, but due to the extra cost and that so few ships sail to Oz from there, I didn't want my car sitting on the docks for weeks waiting for a ship.
Yeah I got keen on a couple of East Coast cars when I was looking around. It wasn't so much the cost or the availability of shipping dates that put me off in the end (both were reasonable), it was the fact that the ships go the l-o-n-g way around and your car ends up being on the water for a couple of months!
-
I noticed in the latest Unique Cars magazine that www.musclecarfactory.com.au (http://www.musclecarfactory.com.au) is selling 67FB shells that are basically Dynacorn assembled by them as right hand drive, and they are putting together cars for full rego. They mention about ADR compliance etc. so they must know how to do it.
I think the price is somewhere around $30K for a shell. But it is right-hand drive already and won't have any rust. Obviously all the extra pieces to turn it into a real car will be a motza, but you're already talking TCP or RRS for underneath. So motor and interior. I suppose they would have already done the hard work. But still no VIN - not sure how that would work.
-
Scollist, this was spoken about earlier, and these cars must be registered a kit cars and probably aren't eligible for mustang club membership. Basically it would be a Kit car that looks like a Mustang.
-
Scollist, this was spoken about earlier, and these cars must be registered a kit cars and probably aren't eligible for mustang club membership. Basically it would be a Kit car that looks like a Mustang.
Thanks Ron. But this actual company with some knowledge wasn't spoken about in this thread. Only the reference to Dynacorn shells.
Yes, the ADR compliance may not be in line with what Mungus wants to do, but it cant hurt to ask those with knowledge.
And I disagree that it wouldn't qualify for MOCA membership in Victoria. While I am no expert in the club we are a pretty inclusive club, and I'd be disappointed if we rejected someone who has a love for mustangs that goes down this path just because it doesn't have a VIN. Especially when it could be identical to a car next to it at a show that is a member of the club.
-
I disagree that it wouldn't qualify for MOCA membership in Victoria.
I think he's referring to historic rego; anyone with or without a Mustang can be a member of the club.
;)
s
-
Scollist, My mistake. I thought it was the company offering turn key brand new cars using dynacorn shells, with no original mustang parts at all. They were 70K or thereabouts. This was a topic of some discussion a few years ago and the big question is would it actually be a mustang or a look a like. I think it was Blue Oval Garages at the time. Muscle car factory appear to be repairing original shells with dynacorn parts? in whisc case no dramas, but you cannot have a totally new production 1967 mustang and call it a real 1967 mustang.
Cheers, Ron B
-
Scollist, My mistake. I thought it was the company offering turn key brand new cars using dynacorn shells, with no original mustang parts at all. They were 70K or thereabouts
Hi Ron,
Yes I think they do offer turn-key for that price. But they also offer the shells with ADR compliance bits for 'under 30k'. And no I don't think they are repairing old shells for this product. See this article from Unique Cars http://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/features/1506/muscle-car-factory-melbourne-profile/ (http://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/features/1506/muscle-car-factory-melbourne-profile/). And the Products|Dynacorn Classic Bodies' tab on http://www.musclecarfactory.com.au/products.php (http://www.musclecarfactory.com.au/products.php).
There is a picture in the rotation that shows old shells, but I think they use those for bespoke builds. I suspect that if Mungus goes down the new shell path it would have to have a 'new' motor - i.e. Fuel injection etc. to meet ADR emissions, among many other issues. I'm not sure if this is what he is planning given he wants a Bullitt but is prepared to 'compromise' on the underneath bits.
Cheers, Shane
-
I'm sure somewhere he discussed RRS suspension and a 390. A 390 crate motor with holley fuel injectors would be a viable set up for ADR, wouldn't it, so long as cat converters and emission control devices were installed?
-
Back again;
Yes I'm fitting a mildly modded FE390 4v motor and TKO 600 box.
Haven't made the FE390 since 1976 so I doubt there's any crate motors available.
Are you perhaps thinking of the 393 (stroked 351)?
I have no interest in going the ADR route BTW. Would bugger what I'm trying to achieve.
Thanks anyway. All views welcomed.
-
What I meant by my earlier post was that if I was buying a car for the pleasure of driving it, I would have the modifications that I described earlier.
While I wouldn't consider changing my car as it's a factory 390, any car that I intended working on would have to be a stroked small block. They put out as much power but have so much more room under the bonnet.
-
No doubt you've seen this one and it's neither a v8 nor manual, but it looks to have quite a lot to work with and the price is reasonable so far:
www.ebay.com.au/itm/221804376698 (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/221804376698)
-
Thanks Brian,
Indeed I have seen that one, but all suggestions are appreciated.
It suffers the same downsides as some others, in that I am paying for a better car but the "better" parts that up its value are pretty much worthless to me, as I'll be changing or junking them.
In this case it's; wrong colour, engine, trans, interior and condition not as good as I want. Hence why I'd prefer a junker that gives me an OZ legal fastback V8 manual ID for minimum money.
The only other one on offer now that I'm interested in is a tatty 1967 S code fastback that's minus its motor and trans and needs some body work. It's in way better condition than the one I'm bidding on but then it's also double the money. I like that it's an S and the motor and trans is no issue as I'm going Tremec and have sourced a correct 390 nearby. If the auction I'm in on now yields nada I may make the other bloke an offer...
-
Somebody couldn't wait so they changed an XP
-
That looks seriously wrong.
-
Wrong would be putting it politely!
Meantime I've decided to cool my heels and won't be buying the red rust bucket on flea bay.
East coast shipping plus probable AQIS cleaning etc means around $4.5+ AUD just for shipping.
I'll be keeping my eye out for any good west coast deals or maybe if I'm lucky, something local.
Thanks for all the good advice. I'm all primed and ready to go when the right one appears!
:pepper:
-
I bet you are looking for an XP now.
-
Well if you do go back to looking in the USA then IMO you don't want anything from the east in any case, that's where the majority of the rusty ones will be due to the climate. And plenty of rusty ones come from up Dearborn way too.
Sure there are no doubt plenty of exceptions - cars moved backwards & forwards across the USA for lots of reasons - but my advice & in part from seeing many dozens of Mustangs imported by a friend who was back then in the business of sourcing cars for people - both complete running or dismantled projects - is to stick to the dry states as a car's origin as a best starting point, as he did. We saw plenty of rusty disasters from other parts of the USA imported by people who didn't take that approach. Some were just too far gone to be viable.
Believe me, you do NOT want a rusty old Ford just because it's cheap as you will find that the rust problems go right through all the body shell as there were so many areas that never received any primer at all let alone paint & there was no factory rust protection to the shells whatsoever, they were thrown together in a big hurry due to demand & sent out the door. They are monocoque construction so there are rust traps all through them. They were not hand built with care let alone any thought as to longevity, & certainly not expected to last this long (50 yrs now).
I'm not doubting your skills, perseverance & determination for a moment. But, IMO no matter how good your skills are a rusty shell will take you years to work through, repair properly & correctly for safety, & put all to rights so it drives well, much pain, & many $$$.
Buy a good car to start with & you will be better off & the end point will be in sight that you can look forward to rather than quite some years away.
-
you don't want anything from the east in any case, that's where the majority of the rusty ones will be due to the climate.
Even more so due to them salting the roads when it snowed. Yes there are exceptions, many did have climate controlled garages and the true car lovers wouldn't take their cars out during winter, of course many just used these cars to get from A to B and parked them out front. North east USA is known as the 'rust belt' mainly due to the declining heavy industry but also due to rusty cars.
Similarly you'll find rust buckets on the west coast if the owners lived close to the beaches with all that salt air blowing in.
Best advice is to have it inspected; don't go off factory location.
s
-
Yes, all very true. Cars could have been anywhere in their lifetime, & alternately cared for or abused.
However an origin of being from the west factory, & dry state delivery location (DSO), is at least a worthy starting point.
-
I bet you are looking for an XP now.
Ha! The only I'd have a use for an XP for would be as a target on my rifle range... :omg:
-
Well the auction has ended and the red rust bucket sold for $7,450. So I wouldn't have won it anyway.
(My top bid was $6,600). It just goes to show what any genuine 67' fastback V8 manual project is worth these days, even in that sort of state. Given how many get restored and sold for biggish money I'm not entirely surprised. A competent US based Mustang workshop will have her good as new and still turn a profit.
But I do agree with many of the comments here. :agree:
However in reality if it wasn't for the USD FX hike of recent months, and the high east coast shipping costs it might still have been a goer for me. :cry:
Yes it was very rusty (done that before as I mostly do pre war or 1950's cars), but as I was going to put a RHD kit in that wasn't so important to me given how much structural steel gets replaced in that process. I was also fitting new rear quarters as I was making it a 1968 replica with the rectangular side strip reflectors, and I wouldn't bother putting that work into a rusty old quarter panel. (Bullit replica job remember). Plus as I always sandblast and rotisserie my cars I would be willing to bet a lot of so called "better" cars would have revealed plenty of "work" to be fixed. (From past experience). In reality most of my car bodies end up getting largely replaced with new steel so its more a case of do I want the hassle and time. If I won lotto then no I don't, I'd probably just find a shitty S code fastback stateside and pay someone good to do what I want...
But sadly despite many attempts, the lotto still eludes me! :nopity:
-
It just goes to show what any genuine 67' fastback V8 manual project is worth these days, even in that sort of state.
... and in that particular state in the USA. Location definitely plays a part in pricing. You'll find cars in regional areas fetch less due to transport; many people don't bother driving hours to check out what could be a rust bucket.
s
-
I reckon it's hard enough finding a genuine 67/68 S code fastback, looking for a manual car even more so.
I think I'd buy a good auto and convert it to manual. End of problem! :thumb:
-
looking for a manual car even more so.
Good point & too true. Eg. Only something like about 7% of '67/68 cars had 4-speed manual trans. There were far more of the 3-speeds - I don't recall the percentage - but they were very often low spec'd entry level cars as the 3 speed was the base trans.
By '67 the majority of the cars being ordered were to have auto. So yes by specifying a manual up front you are limiting your options when in reality you won't want to reuse most of the mechanicals anyway.
-
To get it cheap, I think you may need to compromise on the spec of the rust bucket. A 6cyl auto is going to be easier to get for the price you want than an S code.
Seeing as how you're going to fit your own motor and gearbox anyway, the only downside is the completed spec not matching the VIN. But then again, you're planning to fit a 5 speed anyway so why pay $$$ more for a 'correct' VIN?
-
Good point from BAC.
I agree, you might as well consider any engine code which comes up, as no matter what engine code & spec it left the factory in, your finished car won't match in many if not most respects mechanically & aesthetically - a 'Bullitt' looking car colour-wise but very different mechanically. You're going to build a special you said not build an exact Bullitt replica as was custom built for Chad McQueen.
Chances are the 390 you get from somewhere to install wouldn't have the right casting date period for the car's build date if you did manage to purchase an S code car, so no matter what engine code is in the VIN it would only be academic really would it not?
-
I agree, you might as well consider any engine code which comes up
Totally; if it's a ground up resto and he's not building it concours then who really cares as long as it passes engineering. A good Bullitt replica would fetch good money and he wouldn't be denying an original 390 from being restored to factory spec.
s
-
No offence intended, but some here aren't taking much notice of my earlier posts...
I've made it plain more than once that I don't especially care what the vehicle comes with as long as it's a 67' / 68' fastback.
Nice if it was a V8 manual but that's no big deal as I'm changing both those bits. Just makes it a little less divergent from the final product. What matters is that it's a repairable 1967 / 1968 fastback with useable ID. Location is obviously important also.
Also Chad McQueen's car is not an exact replica of his Dad's movie cars.
It doesn't have a FE390 4v and the wheels are bigger, etc.
it's a damn nice car and from a distance it looks like a Bullit movie car, but on closer examination it really isn't. :cry:
The only mention I've made of wanting an S code was if I won lotto and could afford to buy an S code and get someone to fix it / do the build for me.... :thumb:
-
No offence intended, but some here aren't taking much notice of my earlier posts...
I've made it plain more than once that I don't especially care what the vehicle comes with as long as it's a 67' / 68' fastback.
None taken, but you have changed your tune just a little. Here's what you had to say when I linked to a 6cyl auto on Ebay:
In this case it's; wrong colour, engine, trans, interior and condition not as good as I want. Hence why I'd prefer a junker that gives me an OZ legal fastback V8 manual ID for minimum money.
No matter either way, just helps us to help you if we know which way you're headed... :thumb:
-
Here's one story to add to the mix!
I called RRS to ask if it's true that they have way to use a Dynacorn shell with an old ID tag. The man I was told to ask for was away so I asked the lady if she knew anything about that idea. I was told a few "interesting" things; :smile01:
1. The Dynacorn shells sold as RHD in the states can't be Dynacorn because RRS can't buy them like that, they fit the RHD kit in OZ... In fact you apparently can't buy Dynacorn shells at all, only a collection of panels which RRS align etc.
(Mmmm I thought, RRS must be very special given that several U.S. resellers offer RHD shells).
2. Even better she told me if I restored my own original 68' rust bucket using their parts that I HAD TO FIT AN EMMISSIONS CONPLIANT (ADR) engine!
I reminded her this was NOT a new build car from RRS but the restoration of an original 1968 car and she repeated - NO YOU CANT IN KNOW YOU CANT REGISTER ANY MUSTANG WITHOUT A EMMISIONS APPROVED ENGINE!
I can only hope she's the office lady! Think I'll call back later when the boys are home. :thud:
-
None taken, but you have changed your tune just a little. Here's what you had to say when I linked to a 6cyl auto on Ebay:
No matter either way, just helps us to help you if we know which way you're headed... :thumb:
Yes however Brian but they key thing on that one was the price. We are talking apples and oranges here. Cheap vs. not;
Cheap I'll take any spec fastback 68/68,
Not cheap and I won't because I'm paying a bug arse premium for stuff I don't want.
I'm not interested in paying for a going car that has the wrong bits in it.
That really us a waste of money. If it was a V8 manual in highland green then yes I would pay that kind if money...
-
Others here will know way better than me, but like everything else in life it's a grey area...
My limited understanding is for the vehicle to be considered as a 60's Mustang then the core components of the vehicle must be original and/or period correct. What this means exactly is anyone's guess and probably open to a bit of interpretation by the engineer certifying the vehicle. However, I would expect the frame/chassis, motor, major suspension components, etc. should be of a design/construction original to the particular vehicle or were available as a factory variant/option of that model range at the time of manufacture.
As has been mentioned on these forums many times before, there can be significant differences in requirements from state to state. I would have thought you'd be OK in most places with what you want to do provided you use replacement parts that are of a period correct design.
The one thing I can think of that might cause you trouble is the gearbox as it's a modern unit. Get advice from a pro but it may turn out easier certification-wise to fit an old clunker 3 or 4 speed box and change it out once you have the roadworthy.
-
Cheap I'll take any spec fastback 68/68,
Not cheap and I won't because I'm paying a bug arse premium for stuff I don't want.
I'm not interested in paying for a going car that has the wrong bits in it.
That really us a waste of money. If it was a V8 manual in highland green then yes I would pay that kind if money...
You are going to source your own motor and gearbox regardless of which car you buy, correct?
If so, you will be 'throwing away' the running gear of the donor car regardless of whether it's a 6 or a V8, manual or auto, correct?
If so, the premium you pay for the donor car will be higher if it's V8 and manual (all other things being equal) therefore you will be discarding more value of the donor car from a V8 manual than an auto 6.
And any car in the price bracket you're shopping in won't have worthwhile paint anyway, so what does it matter if it's highland green or not?
Sounds to me like you have your heart set on a donor car that has matching engine, trans type and paint code to the spec you want to build and you're prepared to pay more for it. The question is - how much?
-
My limited understanding is for the vehicle to be considered as a 60's Mustang then the core components of the vehicle must be original and/or period correct. What this means exactly is anyone's guess and probably open to a bit of interpretation by the engineer certifying the vehicle.
Yeah there are some rules like that here; for instance if you change to 4 wheel discs or upgrade engine then you have to have lap-sash instead of lap belts but I hear it varies state to state and according to the engineer's interpretation, etc.
Be sure to have it all sussed out.
s
-
Also Chad McQueen's car is not an exact replica of his Dad's movie cars.
Yes you're right, I was thinking of a Bullitt movie car replica featured in one of the Mustang magazines & confused it with an article on Chad McQueen's car. Duh.
His car was built on a '67 Dynacorn shell to to replicate the original '68 externally but mechanically modded with crate engine, 5-speed & aftermarket steering & suspension kits. And has 16" wheels instead of 15".
Hopefully something suitable will turn up soon for you. Might pay to advertise, as you never know what cars are salted away in people's sheds.
-
You could also enlist someone like Shermatt to look for you in the states. Who knows, he may already know of something.
-
Indeed Ron and that's what I've done.
I did have a deal on a genuine GTA 390 in Nebraska, but the guy welched on the deal after we agreed on a price etc. sold it to somebody else...
Matt is searching around for me. I'm also now toying with the idea of buying one of those restored fastback shells that comes with an old car title and bill of sale etc.
Aside from Desert Mustangs there are a few others being done that I've found for sale.
I ran it past Infastructure and its no problem apparently, as long as you ship it with an engine, gearbox, axles and or wheels etc.
Although with the $ the way it is it may pay to wait a while!
Brian, it seems we've misunderstood each other. For me it's down to simple costs.
If it's cheap I'll consider anything restorable, if they want good money then of course I expect something closer to the desired final car...
-
This thread has been merged with a thread, on the same subject, called noob
-
Interesting read guys but I must admit buying a shell for 30 k from the muscle car factory seems reasonable but with everything else the cost will escalate to easily 70g...when you can get this (see link below) for $48700 in Aus... yes its not bullitt but this car is a 390 it is here and a great looking car by the photos.
My point is why would you import with the hassles of handling costs not seeing the car etc... or the hassle of being only a kit car from the muscle car factory and not being a stang that's not recognized.(btw I think that's debatable)
Its always been a dream of mine to build a modern day bullitt I will one day but for me this car is a glamour (credit to any one who owns it on here) and a perfect candidate of bullitt ..you are still going to spend money changing the colour however at the price this is... this is how I would go.
http://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/detail/cars/unique-cars/ford/mustang/82719 (http://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/detail/cars/unique-cars/ford/mustang/82719)
another car although not a 67/68 but a rust free (so the ad says) 69 mach1
http://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/detail/cars/unique-cars/ford/mustang/62872 (http://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/detail/cars/unique-cars/ford/mustang/62872)
again you might be struggling to get better from the states and importing this over at 26500 in Aus
-
that white one is an outright bargain :thumb:
-
This one seems reasonable for $23K:
http://www.carrollstauto.com/site/Inventory/ford/68_ford_mustFB_wimwhite/68_ford_mustFB_wimwhite.htm (http://www.carrollstauto.com/site/Inventory/ford/68_ford_mustFB_wimwhite/68_ford_mustFB_wimwhite.htm)
-
Interesting read guys but I must admit buying a shell for 30 k from the muscle car factory seems reasonable but with everything else the cost will escalate to easily 70g...when you can get this (see link below) for $48700 in Aus... yes its not bullitt but this car is a 390 it is here and a great looking car by the photos. My point is why would you import with the hassles of handling costs not seeing the car etc... or the hassle of being only a kit car from the muscle car factory and not being a stang that's not recognized.(btw I think that's debatable) Its always been a dream of mine to build a modern day bullitt I will one day but for me this car is a glamour (credit to any one who owns it on here) and a perfect candidate of bullitt ..you are still going to spend money changing the colour however at the price this is... this is how I would go.
http://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/detail/cars/unique-cars/ford/mustang/82719 (http://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/detail/cars/unique-cars/ford/mustang/82719)
again you might be struggling to get better from the states and importing this over at 26500 in Aus
I like the idea of the white 390, being already RHD and already in VIC. Auto unfortunately, so a bit a extra work making it Tremec TKO ready, but ya cant have everything! Have emailed the owner about the warranty plate etc. You've probably seen the blue one in SYD on eBay. Its a manual but LHD and not on the OZ registry yet, plus the owner wants more I'd day, his BIN price is $52K AUD...
I too like the convenience and workmanship of the Muscle Car Factory, but it will be a "kit car" so to speak and subject to ADR's. So definitely a no no for me. BTW the way there are guys in the USA making RHD Dynacorn shells, with the ADR mods (seat belt points and side impact) and you can get them for as cheap as $18-19K USD in California. But again the kit car thing raises its head.
Ideally I want the 1968 look. And it seems 67's are easier to find, so that's another issue... (don't really want to swap rear quarters if the old one is good).
So for now my options seem to be fastbacking a coupe or saving up for an S code. There is a very wide price range on S code fastbacks it seems, with some pie in the sky dealers asking $65-70K AUD for rodded & glammed up ones down to $40K for older resto runners with correct numbers. Our economy not being the best these days, (one dealer I know says all his sales over $50K have gone quiet), I'd be surprised if the top end stays that way. Although its tempting to not have to pay $4K+ to get the thing home and then GST etc.
I'm fully anticipating a complete strip down and repaint in Highland Green anyway, plus the Tremec 600, a set of 15" Torque Thrusts and Retro sound etc. So whatever I get theres work involved! :smilies:
I'll keep the forum posted when it finally gets underway.
-
Any news on the stang? I would be interested know if its an original if it is...shes cheap
-
Any news on the stang? I would be interested know if its an original if it is...shes cheap
Nothing heard mate, but I'll post details when (or if) he replies.
His name is Nigel and he's in Brighton VIC. Anyone here know the car?
-
The Healey Factory in Mitcham has this Bullitt clone for sale at $75K.
http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/listing/1967-ford-mustang-fastback/ (http://www.healeyfactory.com.au/listing/1967-ford-mustang-fastback/)
Nice car but the norm of I want a clone that's not clone; wrong interior, engine, transmission, wheels, trim, etc, etc, etc... A typical "67/68 highland green fastback with blackout grille and TT-D's = Bullitt clone".
-
another car although not a 67/68 but a rust free (so the ad says) 69 mach1
http://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/detail/cars/unique-cars/ford/mustang/62872 (http://www.tradeuniquecars.com.au/detail/cars/unique-cars/ford/mustang/62872)
Maybe not a 67/68, but that Mach1 looks GREAT for the money!
-
Nothing heard mate, but I'll post details when (or if) he replies.
His name is Nigel and he's in Brighton VIC. Anyone here know the car?
Well its been a while and he never replied. So I guess its sold or hes not interested...
In any case I've moved on. Bought a 1968 390GT Fastback project from the US a few days ago.
So hopefully in a couple of months she'll be in my barn and the project slowly underway.
BTW totally agree with Mert. I saw that car on the net and had exactly the same thoughts. You'd think it was a Bullit clone as you passed it going the other way. But it would take about 30 seconds at 10 metres to pick the obvious flaws... Still a damn nice car though!
-
I've moved on. Bought a 1968 390GT Fastback project from the US a few days ago.
Start a build thread here in the Members Cars section and put up some pics.
http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php/board,30.0.html (http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php/board,30.0.html)
Chop Chop!
s
-
Start a build thread here in the Members Cars section and put up some pics.
http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php/board,30.0.html (http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php/board,30.0.html)
Chop Chop!
s
Plan to Stephen. Might be a while though. Just pondering what tasty bits to buy and chuck in the car before she leaves Newark. Seems the wheels and tyres I want are cheaper there than here. Was gonna buy the Tremec TKO 600 kit off Mustang Depot too, but with the $ the Dellow kit is a lot cheaper. Although the depot kit looks better (low profile option for the BB and has a mount etc).
-
Plan to Stephen.
You can still start up a thread with the pics you have of it; then just add, ask questions, etc. as you go along.
Would love to see what you bought.
;)
s
-
Plan to Stephen. Might be a while though. Just pondering what tasty bits to buy and chuck in the car before she leaves Newark. Seems the wheels and tyres I want are cheaper there than here. Was gonna buy the Tremec TKO 600 kit off Mustang Depot too, but with the $ the Dellow kit is a lot cheaper. Although the depot kit looks better (low profile option for the BB and has a mount etc).
Try Mal Wood for the gearbox as well, Torque thrust wheels are not expensive here either, Fataz Comp engines have them they run them on the Race cars.
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn64/shaunp289/IMG_0038_zps38paqkbw.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/shaunp289/media/IMG_0038_zps38paqkbw.jpg.html)
(http://i301.photobucket.com/albums/nn64/shaunp289/IMG_0039_zpsb1wbfewh.jpg) (http://s301.photobucket.com/user/shaunp289/media/IMG_0039_zpsb1wbfewh.jpg.html)
-
Thanks Shaun, tried Mal, but he was dead set on getting me to go for a T56 6 speed, which I'm really not interested in. He said he was going to email all his options but that was a couple of weeks ago and nada since then. Took days to respond to my initial inquiry too. Guess he was busy?
The key thing for me is that the depot deal has the BB low profile mod on their TKO's. Means no chopping up the tunnel. Big plus for me. Plus they provide the mount itself and several nice clutch control options. Nada on all those counts from Dellow so far. But I've emailed them back asking what they can russle up.
Interested in the Torq Thrust wheels though. Who is a good dealer for them on the east coast?
I imagine a business like Fataz have their own sources, but do they sell wheels to the public?
-
Thanks Shaun, tried Mal, but he was dead set on getting me to go for a T56 6 speed, which I'm really not interested in. He said he was going to email all his options but that was a couple of weeks ago and nada since then. Took days to respond to my initial inquiry too. Guess he was busy?
The key thing for me is that the depot deal has the BB low profile mod on their TKO's. Means no chopping up the tunnel. Big plus for me. Plus they provide the mount itself and several nice clutch control options. Nada on all those counts from Dellow so far. But I've emailed them back asking what they can russle up.
Interested in the Torq Thrust wheels though. Who is a good dealer for them on the east coast?
I imagine a business like Fataz have their own sources, but do they sell wheels to the public?
Fataz sell to the public they are a dealer, American racing sponsor the Trans-am series, Fataz build some of the cars and quite a lot of the engines, for the series, and other series. The trick to getting AODs and the larger 5 speeds to fit is to move the tunnel brace back in the tunnel you can then use the original factory mount as well. No trouble to get a TKO into a 67 with a big block, I built an FE 390 a while back for an Eleanor that car is running a TKO set up from Mal Wood including Hydraulic clutch works great. Are you keeping it LHD? RHD is easy to sort for Hydraulic clutch just use a XB falcon pedal box set up.