Engine rebuild

[Reborn67]

Back again, l have a question that may seem bleeding obvious,  If l decide to stroke this rebuild i can buy a new scat cast stroker crank for under $400 au , if l keep my old crank it will cost me over $300 to grind and linish and another $300+ to balance it?
Am l missing something here or is the maths to obvious, also would a new scat crank be pre balanced to a high degree or does it also need to be balanced?  It just seems to Obvious or is it.......,
Andrew..,

[Dwayne]

I've heard that some pre-balanced rotating assemblies often need re-balancing.

[barnett468]

I've heard that some pre-balanced rotating assemblies often need re-balancing.

Yup!

[barnett468]

Back again, l have a question that may seem bleeding obvious,  If l decide to stroke this rebuild i can buy a new scat cast stroker crank for under $400 au , if l keep my old crank it will cost me over $300 to grind and linish and another $300+ to balance it?
Am l missing something here or is the maths to obvious, also would a new scat crank be pre balanced to a high degree or does it also need to be balanced?  It just seems to Obvious or is it.......,
Andrew..,

you should always balance every build. have it done by a high end reputable shop. shaunp knows some. if they can balance it to within 2 grams, run away fast.

[shaunp]

costs about $400 to balance the engine front to back rods, pistons ,crank , balancer , flywheel. You need your rings and bearings as these are included in the weight, and they also add an oil weight as well

[shaunp]

locally look at VPW ebay site and buy when the have 20% off sale. or Outlaw speed shop in SA generally have good Scat prices.

[Reborn67]

So,     If a guy in Newcastle [reputable too]  says he can balance a crank to under one gram l should be dubious???

[earthwalker]

Pryce does very good balancing , they did mine to  under 1 from memory, they'll give you a print out, they did offer me to watch the process if I wanted

[shaunp]

So,     If a guy in Newcastle [reputable too]  says he can balance a crank to under one gram l should be dubious???

Yeah but you balance the rotating assembly as a set. Ie the weight of con-rods, big bearings, piston and rings and oil allowance, determine the weight of the bob weight of the crank, you don't balance the crank by its self. they will often be 50+ grams out or worse.

[Reborn67]

Another odd question, Have been sourcing pistons and rods [scat] there seems to be a choice of pin sizing 0.912-0.927" I thought this was relative to overbore size but that is not the case, why the choice , and the pistons are predominantly Speed Pro or KB ,any thoughts on these?
Thanks Andrew..,

[shaunp]

Another odd question, Have been sourcing pistons and rods [scat] there seems to be a choice of pin sizing 0.912-0.927" I thought this was relative to overbore size but that is not the case, why the choice , and the pistons are predominantly Speed Pro or KB ,any thoughts on these?
Thanks Andrew..,

I only ever buy 927 pin size, KB are ok if you are looking at budget cast pistons, I normally use a Forged piston, though they will cost you double. Get "Total Seal" brand plasma moly classic race rings. Also consider an Eagle crank and rods they are ok.

[shaunp]

I often buy these pistons from Skip whites ebay store,  generally Marhle plasma rings included, which are good rings as well.

https://www.skipwhiteperformance.com/catalog/ford-347-wiseco-forged-pistons-rings-030-over-flat-top-kp490a3-4030-ft_86934/

[barnett468]

costs about $400 to balance the engine

holy crap!

it costs me $220.00 to have them balanced to zero.

[shaunp]

holy crap!

it costs me $220.00 to have them balanced to zero.

Stuff costs more here, but everyone gets paid more as well. Minimum wages etc are higher etc. My balance guy typically balances to zero or very close to ie 0.01-02

[Reborn67]

 Hey guys, back again with another Question,
Have been researching alloy heads, seems to me the size appropriate for my intent would be 185,s with a 58cc chamber?
 AFR appears to make 3 types, one with pedestal mounts [1492] and 2 with stud mounts [1422 & 1388] the 1388 being non emissions
 legal, I dont know if the emissions thing is even an issue in Aus"  Is the stud mount best suited for roller rockers?
 The equivalent size in an edelbrock appears to be the performer at 170 and 60cc or the performer RPM at 170 or 190 at 60cc
 does any one have any thoughts on these and is the extra dollars for the AFR"s worth it?

[BAC]

I dont know if the emissions thing is even an issue in Aus?

No problem on a '67 - emissions regs didn't come in until Jan '72.

[shaunp]

Hey guys, back again with another Question,
Have been researching alloy heads, seems to me the size appropriate for my intent would be 185,s with a 58cc chamber?
 AFR appears to make 3 types, one with pedestal mounts [1492] and 2 with stud mounts [1422 & 1388] the 1388 being non emissions
 legal, I dont know if the emissions thing is even an issue in Aus"  Is the stud mount best suited for roller rockers?
 The equivalent size in an edelbrock appears to be the performer at 170 and 60cc or the performer RPM at 170 or 190 at 60cc
 does any one have any thoughts on these and is the extra dollars for the AFR"s worth it?

AFR 1388 stud mount, swap the 3/8 studs for 7/16, there is no comparison to the E brand performer heads they are not on the same planet.
Comp cam Gold rockers. sign up to VPW ebay site and wait till they have 20%-10% off sale and you'll save $500, team them up with a nice hydraulic roller cam, ,Airgap intake, 10.5 :1 comp and you wot see which way it went. 750 double pumper carb

[shaunp]

58cc heads , flat top pistons, cam depends how lumpy you want it and how much power, plenty of good off the shelf cams suitable,

[Reborn67]

Wow , that was quick, Thanks again for info, I am slowly compiling a shopping list and will post it for all your thoughts and comments soon,
Andrew..,

[shaunp]

Wow , that was quick, Thanks again for info, I am slowly compiling a shopping list and will post it for all your thoughts and comments soon,
Andrew..,

Couple cams


Nice mild street cam that works well

http://lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1669&gid=289

More aggressive cam still nice on the street but very strong mid and upper RPM

http://lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=1670&gid=289

[Tempest]

I've got the first cam Shaun linked, really nice cam 

[Reborn67]

 Back over here now, I dont want to hijack someone elses subject, {re Fitzy} i suppose l am just trying to be thorough, l am going to build this myself
 {with help of course] and also going to stroke it, l am just keen to read about other peoples experiences, good or bad to make sure l have
 l have as much info as possible and have the best outcome, considering the dollars involved, thats all...,

[shaunp]

Back over here now, I dont want to hijack someone elses subject, {re Fitzy} i suppose l am just trying to be thorough, l am going to build this myself
 {with help of course] and also going to stroke it, l am just keen to read about other peoples experiences, good or bad to make sure l have
 l have as much info as possible and have the best outcome, considering the dollars involved, thats all...,

So early block is stronger than a 5.0 roller block both are fine if you are keeping to low 400-hp and revs around/just over 6k

I always line bore them and fit ARP main bearing studs
They need a good balance job and a good tune, particularly if you are going to rev them, I believe bad tune IE pinging/pre-ignition  is one of the causes to block failure if they are on the edge rpm/power wise.
-Mid 10.5 compression is good, set up deck heights etc to achieve this AFR heads have a good chamber and will take compression ok.
-Hydraulic roller cam is good, 270 to 280 deg overal with close to 600 thou lift, I posted some Voodoo cams above, if using a non roller block buy Howard link bar lifers they are good value, distributor needs gear to match cam material
-Air gap intake is good
-750 double pumper carb
-Roll-master red timing set is good
-Cast eagle/scat rotating assembly +I beamrods is fine for this type of power
-Moly rings like Total Seal brand
-Clevite 77 bearing, (eagle crank uses Chev big ends)
- minimum f of 1-5/8" primary, long tube 4 in to 1 3" collector
-AFR 185s are good and have roller cam springs
-Comp cam gold or Scorpion rockers are fine


PM if you want my ph number if you want to discuss what to do.

[barnett468]

i suppose l am just trying to be thorough, l am going to build this myself
 {with help of course] and also going to stroke it, l am just keen to read about other peoples experiences, good or bad to make sure l have as much info as possible and have the best outcome, considering the dollars involved, thats all...,

Again, it's really just not that simple because some people have bad experiences because of mistakes on their part and they blame it on the parts instead of themselves, so what you are asking really isn't going to help much, I guarantee it.

All I can suggest is that you simply use the parts that shaunp or I or another experienced engine builder on here suggests. It really is the simplest and best way.

[Dwayne]

Back over here now, I dont want to hijack someone elses subject, {re Fitzy} i suppose l am just trying to be thorough, l am going to build this myself
 {with help of course] and also going to stroke it, l am just keen to read about other peoples experiences, good or bad to make sure l have
 l have as much info as possible and have the best outcome, considering the dollars involved, thats all...,

Start here:
https://www.mustangtech.com.au/Content/pa=showpage/pid=27.html