Mustang Owners Club Australia Forum
Technical & General Discussion Area => Restomods => Topic started by: Rayatswan on January 08, 2021, 07:55:32 am
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I recently started a full Restomd on a 66 Coupe I have owned for many years.
Over the years I have been collecting parts and doing little jobs here and there but nothing substantial until recently.
This is what I have started with, the photos don't do justice to how bad it is!
(https://i.imgur.com/BslMUXD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QTvSuwU.jpg)
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Started the stripdown
(https://i.imgur.com/68HCz3e.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/w5oNyoZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ycqAW83.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UvO54iJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vBZOoIH.jpg)
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Built a frame for the car to sit on whilst I pull it apart to replace rusty panels etc.
(https://i.imgur.com/pavGjKh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VzprpQZ.jpg)
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One of my first jobs before I started the strip down was to get hold of a pair of 69 shock towers, I am going to fit these because of the improvements the longer lower control arm gives, they will also be fitted with RRS coilovers. Pictures of RRS shock tower notching as well. They were rusty too.
(https://i.imgur.com/JTjstD4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UFo7PI3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/m0KquqN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/idtrpAh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/o0ZauKh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/m3K3E7h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/EqPfsRx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/VeQfPIW.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/UiyTqlZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9ZUGydn.jpg)
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Another job was shortening a 9" diff from a F150 truck, also fitted full floating hubs and mounts for coilover suspension.
(https://i.imgur.com/UZrS9vZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/eA07gbI.jpg)
Here the diff is test fitted to the new rear frame rails and trunk floor
(https://i.imgur.com/pXHfd9Y.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gVk0M92.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/UiyTqlZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9ZUGydn.jpg)
Looking good, are they vert inner rockers also being fitted?
I've fitted the US Cartools subframe connectors on mine, but should have done the vert inner rockers and seat platform in hindsight
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Hi Dwayne, yes they are convertible inner rockers and I do have the seat platform as well.
I have fitted one of them so far will post some photos in the next few days, internet is slow where I live.
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Man, I saw the car photos yesterday and I thought you've only just started the restoration, but you've been very busy!
Looks great, it's really going to be some car!
Well done,
Cheers Phil.
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Thanks AussiePhil
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Hi Ray. Very nice work and sounds like there's plenty of thought going into it as well! What's the end purpose - streetie, track work or a bit of both? Keep the updates coming, please!
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Thanks Haggspeed, just building it because I can, no intended purpose mate.
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Besides the 9" diff I have a few other parts tucked away,
World Products "Man O War" 9.5" tall, 4.125" bore Block
(https://i.imgur.com/JszawiM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Hasx8xb.jpg)
CNC Ported CHI 3V Heads
(https://i.imgur.com/Tys61Lo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aATbxKG.jpg)
Tremec T56 Magnum 6 Speed Gearbox and associated hardware, I will get more photos when I unbox it.
(https://i.imgur.com/ib2fgo6.jpg)
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Started cutting it up.
(https://i.imgur.com/RkChsNY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/530Chj5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vaKwhbI.jpg)
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This is the frame rails and Watts link that will be going in
(https://i.imgur.com/tLpcnsO.jpg)
In Place
(https://i.imgur.com/UldgtMh.jpg)
Trunk floor ready to go in
(https://i.imgur.com/Aycos8a.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/r8RMu2n.jpg)
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Floor Plug welded
(https://i.imgur.com/DOOvCo3.jpg)
Had to narrow the Torque box's due to putting convertible inner rockers in, I bought coupe frame rails. Not sure if you can buy convertible frame rails and torque box's.
(https://i.imgur.com/UWkdMT3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Jz81O8i.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZUBs3Hm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1CUaEQz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hwdd2NK.jpg)
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Mate, nice Engine Block & Heads, it's good to see another serious build underway and a Clevor, 6-speed, too! Which Exhaust Headers are you planning on using? What have you got planned for the Trans Tunnel? Is the Rear Suspension custom or did you start with a kit? Is that a Fays2 Watts Linkage you are using? What size Wheels and Tyres will it have? Sorry for asking so many questions, but I'm very intrigued. By the way, I like that you're tackling the suspension as separate front and rear assemblies, too. You've definitely got our attention, keep up the good work!
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Thanks for that Haggspeed. I will build custom stainless headers myself, I have Stainless Steel flanges to start with. The rear suspension is by Street or Track, here is a link.
https://streetortrack.com/suspension/rear-suspension/3-link/
The wheels I am using are superlites by Trans Am Engineering Australia in 17 x 9.5" front and rear
The trans tunnel will be custom, when I get the floor, front and rear frame rails etc done I will mock it up and go from there.
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Great build. Loving the pics.
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Re-used the original rockers after cutting out some rust.
(https://i.imgur.com/f77lA6f.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/x4GRME3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MCidgtL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/L1pLF0g.jpg)
One side had a good inner rocker panel after removing seat base spot welds, the other side was rusty and had to be remade.
(https://i.imgur.com/OqbImTn.jpg)
Painted inside for rust protection.
(https://i.imgur.com/GO1jWIq.jpg)
Convertible rockers welded to original rockers and refitted.
(https://i.imgur.com/jtc7uyJ.jpg)
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Thank you 67FBGT
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I must say that is " one serious rebuild " I too am impressed with your commitment and dedication, is it fair to assume you have an engineering background.,
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Thanks Andrew, yes mate heavy industry maintenance background plus determination.
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Got a little bit done recently, other stuff keeps getting in the way!
Chopped the front end off.
(https://i.imgur.com/e7MpdYi.jpg)
Painted the full length floor pans and right side frame rail parts in epoxy
(https://i.imgur.com/VmFBasI.jpg)
I found the floor support was around 10mm too wide for the frame rail, I purchased a pair of them at the same time, one was correct and the other was crap.
(https://i.imgur.com/2oxBIbv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WNAAC9R.jpg)
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Fitted the front cross member that is part of the Radiator support.
(https://i.imgur.com/jc75InN.jpg)
The new frame rails are slightly taller than the originals, I had to modify the original cross member to get it to fit
(https://i.imgur.com/L6gjBKl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZNpUS2T.jpg)
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Fitted plates to the insides of the floor supports to mount the T56 gearbox rear support to
(https://i.imgur.com/wDQIMxs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XXpVxCo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/PgopbPh.jpg)
Trial fitting Torque box's
(https://i.imgur.com/NJ9qYZ8.jpg)
Trial fitting modified 69 Shock Towers
(https://i.imgur.com/34M3wuL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/822K6q2.jpg)
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Welded in outer Torque box's
(https://i.imgur.com/ZzPNtU1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mkeWU04.jpg)
Test fit lower cowl
(https://i.imgur.com/JQvR1xV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aYye5w9.jpg)
Cleaning up old firewall
(https://i.imgur.com/Z1od4WQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Tn8bpeu.jpg)
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Dash came out today
(https://i.imgur.com/lL1m4PV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gDLPiwv.jpg)
removed the Kick panel on the left side for replacement and decided to remove the "A" pillar to clean it up, absolute bastard to get out.
(https://i.imgur.com/JeTmMts.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/81BpBuN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/GDBOr88.jpg)
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Wow! At this rate you'll end up with a brand new car. Love you work, looks great!
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Last post for a few months, going away camping with the missus for a week and then into hospital for an operation, all going well I will not be allowed to lift anything for around 12 weeks.
In the meantime I have decided my next task when I get back to it is to remove the drip rails and roof skin, I checked inside the front pillars and they are rusty enough for me to be worried, also will make it easier to get the A pillars and kick panels back in.
(https://i.imgur.com/YL5f35T.jpg)
The A pillars are rusty behind the door hinge bracket supports so cut it out for repairs
(https://i.imgur.com/pkeOAiT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gR9WkcV.jpg)
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WTB 2 pair of these braces from the bottom of a 69 70 mustang shock tower in good condition,
I need both sides, Cheers
(https://i.imgur.com/AH0jnei.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bynZDAZ.jpg)
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Hey Ray,
Great progress, your photos are very good for us to see the bones off our cars.
I’m fitting subframe connectors at the moment and these photos help me understand things like the rails and the torque boxes etc.
Cheers Phil.
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Finally well enough to start doing a little work on the car, have built up over the last few days to an hour and a half today.
Decided to check under the front section of drip rail, I think I will rebuild this section at least.
(https://i.imgur.com/ol6CAT5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WTbbxU4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xhP3nzE.jpg)
Pretty rusty under the drip rail
(https://i.imgur.com/dHT74x2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/c7qbGVK.jpg)
Under the roof skin looks reasonable in this small spot
(https://i.imgur.com/aLE31yq.jpg)
I will cut the outer fold where the drip rail stainless mounts and weld a new section that welds to the pillar
(https://i.imgur.com/nwj9MMm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/N4bkznB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6JhN9Oa.jpg)
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Hey Ray,
Hope you’re recuperating well, don’t over do it, glad to see you’re back into working on your Mustang.
It will be worth it in the end, sitting back cruising!
Cheers Phil.
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Thanks Phil.
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A bit mor work on the left side A pillar
(https://i.imgur.com/C5M9BaD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/d3qSZmp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/zQnsGIw.jpg)
Painted some epoxy primer
(https://i.imgur.com/HcFURdL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vzIX6z1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AraxHXg.jpg)
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Ray - can offer nothing but a "holy shit", this is like watching a complete car come together from scratch (I am seeing bits I have never seen before :lol:)
Much respect, well beyond my abilities
cheers
greg
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Hey Greg, thanks for that. First time for me too!
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Cleaned up welds to finish for the day
(https://i.imgur.com/w6PHSuA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MYGqpOK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JuU00pR.jpg)
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Hey Ray,
You should be awarded for bringing back from the dead something that didn’t look so bad from the start.
If a Mustang lasts for fifty years this one will last one hundred years!
You should be awarded or committed! Hahaha.
Cheers Phil.
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Your right Phil, probably should be committed haha.
Looks can be deceiving, it was a lot worse than the photos show especially the floor and frame rails.
The fire wall has a fair bit of rust too.
For the cost of body parts its an easy decision to replace with new metal.
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Hey Ray,
Great to see she’ll have a second life and I’m sure you’ll treat her nice!
Cheers Phil.
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Right side A pillar is worse than left side, especially under the drip rail and inside windscreen post.
(https://i.imgur.com/cq3EQqK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/veGxRto.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CMa0u7T.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xZGBod1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SPK3pEY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HVzIHmf.jpg)
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My sandblaster wouldn't remove the rust on the A pillar so I decided to have a go at Electrolysis
(https://i.imgur.com/zM6xyO1.jpg)
This is after 30 minutes
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Clamped up ready for welding
(https://i.imgur.com/4qRkqFF.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dJAitkB.jpg)
I used the old cowell and the original witness marks to make sure the firewall will refit when the time comes
(https://i.imgur.com/2fvekfv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xTIZ8uZ.jpg)
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The firewall will need a fair bit of work to get ready for use
(https://i.imgur.com/KjdE0BN.jpg)
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Hey Ray,
Once again well done, love the machines in the background!
Cheers Phil.
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Welded in top cover of Torque Box's and epoxy primed
(https://i.imgur.com/v5DqpQu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/m5T9DZU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6atJoJM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ra054CB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OI9PYlN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sN6gkvd.jpg)
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Started Right hand drive conversion on windscreen wipers today, lower cowl first, cut out, tacked and tig welded.
(https://i.imgur.com/PXRxsla.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XFe1CKv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YKjU7I2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/a7t7ggA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nOb8IWV.jpg)
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Wiper conversion finished on bottom part of cowl panel
(https://i.imgur.com/N6FNpOa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xqyR7RF.jpg)
Deleted fresh air intakes in cowl.
(https://i.imgur.com/PlBY9e5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/btYpWqE.jpg)
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Are you planning to fill the vent on the upper section as well to stop leaves etc for getting in there, or leave it to look stock?
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Hey Dwayne, just marked out the upper section to cut out the Louvre's and convert it for the right hand drive wiper holes
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Cut out the Louvre's in the upper cowl and made a patch panel from one of the old rear quarter panels.
Tack weld in place using Tig, I HATE Tig.
(https://i.imgur.com/wXek4SV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/jl5gn1A.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LWW1O8k.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LHGIiYJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JQydJE1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0EpLe6d.jpg)
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Perfect, looks great :thumb:
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Thanks Dwayne.
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What Dwayne said.
I read this after coming in from welding up a broken fitting on my son in law's lawnmower and while it will stay together my welding is horrible. You guys who can do this sort of work really rub it in.
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Thanks Geoff289.
Finished welding for the day, 90% done but still have to move wiper holes.
Lots of hammering to go yet, have to bring the welds up a bit.
(https://i.imgur.com/A71P6Gb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tEmghKs.jpg)
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If you have access to a 3d printer, here's the panel gap tool I designed for lining up panels & doors etc with a 3/16" gap:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4767938 (https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4767938)
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Looks good Dwayne, unfortunately I don't have access to one.
I compared the holes for the wipers, original Ford and aftermarket, will try and use the Ford ones.
(https://i.imgur.com/pvx3ZfA.jpg)
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As the quarters are coming off have you thought about making it a fastback?
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Hey Brett, not really mate.
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The progress looks amazing, seems like you're having fun with this build. :cheers:
You may want to check out 4wheelonline if you're planning to install a new set of tires on your stang.
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Thanks Belle
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Mostly finished except for some shrinking (ran out of Gas) and I need to find some suitable washer nozzles to fit into the cowl
(https://i.imgur.com/0sADtt1.jpg)
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Moved onto the shock towers, I am using 69 Mustang towers due to the better inner locating point for the lower control arm, also the 69 strut rod braces allow for caster adjustment.
When fitting RRS struts the instructions say to drill 3 holes in the original spring locating plates and to fit spacers under the plates to prevent them being crushed.
This has worked on many installations and is perfectly adequate but I decided to make some plates to weld in to replace the spring locators, this eliminates the need for the crush washers and helps spread the load over a larger area. The plates were made on my Milling machine and welded in place.
(https://i.imgur.com/CxYyncX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xf7ArOB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DQO9cO1.jpg)
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Nice work Ray. Looks far superior to the measly spacers provided in the kit!
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A bit of epoxy today
(https://i.imgur.com/JNnTfws.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/I7NHF5o.jpg)
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Hey Ray,
Beautiful work!
Your “SUBJECT” shouldn’t be “ Rusty 66 Coupe, it should be “ Rusty 66 Coupe gets a second life”
Your photos give us a great insight into what is behind the panels, the skeleton if you like!
Love to see your machining and welding skills!
It gives you great satisfaction turning a lump of metal or aluminium into a component!
Cheers Phil.
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Hey Phil, thanks for the positive feedback mate. I have been enjoying the process and some aspects have been a bit daunting because this really is my first attempt at a car this bad.
I am NOT looking forward to the right hand drive conversion on the dash.
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I'm making my dash removable to make life easier down the track. There's a few pics on my build page on the other forum.
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Hey Dwayne, just started checking out your build thread and so far it looks great, where did you get the hood and front valance from mate???
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Just found them on gumtree.
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Needed some motivation so temp installed some bling
(https://i.imgur.com/LTJDEfn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/XTSBHBf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/udJptbR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/P6UE5qe.jpg)
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Preparation underway for transmission tunnel and firewall modifications and install.
(https://i.imgur.com/caLhQfT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hqggkKv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9ioIeNw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/l97bhbp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lnpqVDl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gZI5Jw8.jpg)
Also noticed the transmission is tilted a few degrees towards the drivers position if it was left hand drive, that was a surprise, checked block and it is level and the bell housing and transmission can only go on 1 way
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Checked the transmission drive line angle today and found it was almost down 6 degrees which is too much,
decided to make some adjustable motor mounts to lower the engine by half an inch which still wont be enough but I will raise the gearbox up until I get 2 and a half to 3 degrees.
(https://i.imgur.com/XkwDwHc.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3tusSVa.jpg)
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Made the plates that bolt up to the block today, had to make a few changes due to the block being a World products man o war with extra metal in a few places.
The sump doesn't fit either, hits on the Main cap at the back of the block.
(https://i.imgur.com/SKlVaMV.jpg)
You can just make out the misalignment of the bolt holes in this photo
(https://i.imgur.com/caLhQfT.jpg)
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The 2 circles on the main cap show where the sump touches, the sump just needs a little massaging with a ballpein hammer
(https://i.imgur.com/TAI1yHY.jpg)
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A bit more on the engine mounts
(https://i.imgur.com/b7Aq11H.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/r7F14hh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/et04wN1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/o5FWFrv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RAW9oPL.jpg)
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I ended up changing the engine mount side plates to only drop the engine 1/2 inch instead of a full inch. The bush tubes were hitting.
Also modified the plates, if you follow the internet plans the side to side adjustment slot slopes up towards the engine quite a bit.
(https://i.imgur.com/VFrjfWs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vNgeWjn.jpg)
I also modified the gearbox crossmember to correct the down pinion angle, it now sits at an acceptable 2.9 degrees
(https://i.imgur.com/vXLalsA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AmPBCMA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Qpxtwlo.jpg)
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Tunnel fits, sort of, bolts on shifter cover hit, any one know how much room I should have between box and tunnel ???
(https://i.imgur.com/mlwrxgz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/uqz4LAm.jpg)
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Altered the original transmission mount/floor support to fit over the T56 Magnum
(https://i.imgur.com/0GAmMen.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MxWPHnu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QWx5CPH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Dy4kQdP.jpg)
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Time for the engine and gearbox to come back out and build the floor
(https://i.imgur.com/ONTelSV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FQDgH4Z.jpg)
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Awesome work Ray, very cool!
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Couple of photos of the engine mounts
(https://i.imgur.com/AGqH83P.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ltslBAL.jpg)
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Started on the firewall transition pans today
(https://i.imgur.com/QFTZrKw.jpg)
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Got the transmission tunnel welded in and the right side floor pan prepped for welding in
(https://i.imgur.com/7oR0AEu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yCeKbNu.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AKk554V.jpg)
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Tacked the floor pan in place, I have found the convertible seat platform no longer fits due to the transmission tunnel being raised to fit the T56
Thats a 25mm copper hammer head between the floor and seat pan
(https://i.imgur.com/GEn5a1Z.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/u7o5gEP.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/15nI9K9.jpg)
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Thanks 67FBGT
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Not much done lately, lacking motivation. Floor welded in and started making the convertible seat pan fit.
(https://i.imgur.com/IZp7iu1.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7lSi5gX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ODzmsDv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z8b60wB.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TdYD1qD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bBB1Abh.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bUDStvV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8gWyrAt.jpg)
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Finished the seat pan, next I will prep the floor and pan for welding into place.
(https://i.imgur.com/SyL7m1Q.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/QpT2L3M.jpg)
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Well I have come across a major issue/problem.
Based on a number of awesome builds on this forum I thought I would be able to get my planned modifications certified for legal street use.
I purchased a Street or Track 3 link suspension kit and one of there Watts Link kits as well (photos are in early posts on this thread)
I had booked a meeting with a certifier but the covid lock downs meant I couldn't see him until late last week.
The bad news - He says no to me wanting to use the street or Track stuff without even looking at it.
I am devastated to say the least.
I know its my bad for not checking before buying.
I still find it amazing that cars far more modified than mine can get certified, and I know some are in other states but the VSCCS scheme is a national scheme so what am I doing wrong, I have totally lost interest in this now.
Anyway, enough of a winge.
Thanks
Ray
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Second opinion ???
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I'd definitely be talking with other engineers.
RRS also have a 3-link for mustamgs, so they must be legal to have in Australia.
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Mate, that is no good.
I don't know what advice I can offer that would be much help, especially from south of the boarder. The truth is: things are still very different from state to state, in fact there are major differences just from one Engineer to another. Having a sympathetic Engineer is a major advantage. Also it's very beneficial if the Assessing Engineer has previous involvement and confidence in the products or people performing modifications. In my experience, I have found that they tend to be less trusting of imported Suspension parts and assemblies ie: stuff made in the US. I can only put that down to familiarity or lack thereof. Has your guy given you reasons why he's rejecting these components?
I'd be seeking a second opinion. This doesn't help you much, I know and I feel for you. I can only wish you good luck.
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Ray, I think you will find VSCCS is the scheme in NSW that essentially certifies Significant and Major modifications to light vehicles. Other states will have their own scheme's or processes, but in essence, they all ensure modifications are engineered in compliance with Australian Design Rules (ADR).
The VSCCS calls up VSI-06 Light Vehicle Modification, which covers the compliance requirements for light vehicles, including suspension mods, etc which are regarded as a major modification requiring certification.
https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
I think you will find with an increased focus on road safety in recent years, Certifiers are taking a more stringent approach to ensure compliance.
I would talk to someone within MOCA NSW, and seek further advice on your vehicle modifications.
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Thanks for the advice guys, I have contacted another local certify-er and he sounds a lot more professional and helpful, he said he would look at my proposed modifications in the new year so with a bit of luck I might be able to move forward.
Jeff (Haggspeed) He said because it had not been tested, I thought that was his job. He nocked back the lower control arm on the front suspension as well for the same reason, oh and the Race products full floating hubs as well even though I told him the manufacturer advertises them as street legal, for some reason he wouldn't even look at them. When I told him I was going to use an XB GT brake booster and master cylinder appropriate for the brakes he gave me a pamphlet for a company that sells an electric booster, Conflict of interest if you ask me.
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Sounds like he just doesn't want to do any testing, and would rather just rubber stamp what other engineers have already tested.
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Seat pan welded in, from the top anyway, still needs to be rosette welded from underneath when I get the car onto a rotisserie
(https://i.imgur.com/4opaChC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/2RJlpgn.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/hz3eM0L.jpg)
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Does anyone living in NSW around Newcastle, Maitland, Medowie Raymondterrace etc have a right hand drive 65 66 Mustang I could come and have a look at the Dashboard, I would also travel to the central coast if need be, Cheers..... Ray
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No response yet so how about Sydney ???
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Finally getting back to the Mustang after a long layoff, 13 weeks off work with shoulder surgery and I have also found an Engineer who is good to work with, he is happy with my suspension choices, any issues can be overcome and he has a fantastic positive attitude.
Just a little work today to get back into the swing of things. More to come as my shoulder gets stronger.
(https://i.imgur.com/SoQLZjt.jpg)
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A bit more firewall
(https://i.imgur.com/R3xtJFv.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OFNfV5w.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pG4WN5E.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gTBQlAe.jpg)
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Good to see you getting back into it and, as always, excellent work being done!
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Thanks Jeff.
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Welded in.
(https://i.imgur.com/5mznIAT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tMhnQot.jpg)
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Bit of epoxy on the inside so I can start on the Cowl lower
(https://i.imgur.com/OsWn2Yf.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/POpjUXr.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ts2rkG5.jpg)
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Hey Ray,
Great to see the progress you’re getting.
Just been talking to Pete about the fastback that’s for sale at National Mustangs.
I’d love to have the opportunity to buy it and restore it as a 289 cruiser.
But if it took the work you’ve done I’d be dead before I got it finished.
Keep up that great work.
Cheers Phil.
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(https://i.imgur.com/1SXKdH1.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/AK0KSmt.jpg)
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Started welding in 69 modified shock towers, a fair bit of massaging to fit aprons to the custom firewall as well
(https://i.imgur.com/YlZhJaO.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OWl0fqd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Dww7IRm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8BEe2UT.jpg)
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Lots of mucking around with this
(https://i.imgur.com/fZOveK7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/T1nddI4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6e9rVTL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0MWuQj6.jpg)
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(https://i.imgur.com/9zGm3JT.jpg)
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Wow, what a beauty! This Rusty 66 Coupe truly captures the essence of classic cars. Despite its modfied exterior, there's an undeniable charm and character that emanates from this vintage beauty. The rust adds a unique touch, telling stories of its past adventures and creating a sense of nostalgia. Good luck.
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Adding edge to right side inner fender apron.
Weld,
Cool,
Repeat.
(https://i.imgur.com/zb0elCP.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3MblvWo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TVYu9I8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ro2mbgK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/BndJaN4.jpg)
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Wasn't happy with the right side back inner fender apron so started again
(https://i.imgur.com/0lu50Oo.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/L81rbSQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/a8o54I5.jpg)
A quick mockup to check fender fit
(https://i.imgur.com/x69GnnS.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vlAw9gA.jpg)
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Good work keep at it.
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Does anyone know where I can buy 1 of these, its to convert a 66 mustang to power brakes without modifying the pedal box.
(https://i.imgur.com/QH8ysMZ.jpg)
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Have you tried somewhere like Hoppers Stoppers? Is not Mustang specific, so shouldn't be that hard to find.
Love your work also. Please keep up the updates.
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I didn't think there was any difference in the pedal box in '66 between a boosted and non boosted brake set up like there is in later cars.
I think there was a difference in the boosters and maybe that bracketry between a manual and auto as the latter had to clear the mechanical clutch linkage.
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Hi Geoff289,
Factory cars up to 67 didn't have an option of power boosted brakes, therefore the pedal ratio is wrong if you bolt up a booster.
The bracket pictured above uses a lever to change the ratio from 6 to 1 to 4 to 1.
I have seen people fit later pedals to 65 66 pedal supports and move the pedal pivot point in the support. (see picture below)
(https://i.imgur.com/Lxv56tI.jpg)
This is a good option except I am using a Mal Wood hydraulic clutch and this uses the original mount point of the pedals. I will post a picture if anyone is interested.
There are also some companies that sell kits that don't have this bracket, the issue here is the pushrod from pedal to master cylinder is all wrong and it leads to premature wear and damage to the booster (so I am told)
Anyway, I found a bracket at a good price and have ordered it so we will see how it goes.
Cheers
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I don’t know how to post links, but if you look up West coast classic cougars, and their you tube site there is a huge range of videos, there is one about power brake boosters 67-73, very interesting and shows why boosters and pedals are so model specific, don’t worry about it being a cougar site, as many parts are the same, if nothing else it is an interesting watch..,
Reborn
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Hi Andrew,
Yes thats an interesting video, I also like the one where the young guy replaces his roof skin on his Cougar, I am up for that soon.
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Anyone got 1 of these brackets for the front fender to pillar on a 65 66, Cheers
(https://i.imgur.com/RTYyo5N.jpg)
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Duplicating the crush points under the inner fenders, the 69 shock towers dont have them in the same places as the 66 aprons
(https://i.imgur.com/jO0qAx6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rYIGUfh.jpg)
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Almost ready for primer
(https://i.imgur.com/lB6PLid.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/gRFnDcj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LTBu5cl.jpg)
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Guards fit well
(https://i.imgur.com/UJWoQnp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NJp9tBY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6BByQVw.jpg)
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Looking good
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Hi , If your still looking for fender to pillar bracket . I can help..happy to post
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Getting ready to spray some epoxy
(https://i.imgur.com/Sww39qf.jpg)
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Painting it the same colour?
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Hi Tony, I have changed brands of epoxy, the House of kolor stuff is really hard to get so I am trying Rest O Finish, similiar colour I think.
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I haven't tried reso finish. I usually use PPG for primer. Pricing looks ok. Let us know how it goes on.
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Sprayed some Epoxy today, it went on much thicker than House of Kolor even tho I put some reducer in it (only about 2%)
Supposed to be Grey/Green but looks much more grey, the photo makes it look completely grey.
(https://i.imgur.com/BQmOQyA.jpg)
I think the big test will be how well it holds up around rosett welds
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Seems to cover ok.
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A bit of prep for welding in panels
(https://i.imgur.com/QgouZLI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/N6ornGt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZOTT0sL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rgXTubI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/pEMOxV4.jpg)
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Re-assembly, getting ready for welding
(https://i.imgur.com/7fNtYVl.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DAMsffk.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NJLKxO6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/c4dDzNy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/3qWCzQx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UoEOiVS.jpg)
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Lot of welding ahead. What engine are you putting in it? Did you notch the towers for better access??
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Hi Tony, read the earlier posts mate, all the info is there. Cheers..... Ray
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Looks like a well thought out project.
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Love your work, very informative
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Thanks Tony and Mark, appreciate the comments.
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Engine bay welding finished
(https://i.imgur.com/Q0ZgcCE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5FXdw26.jpg)
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A bit of extra shock tower bracing
(https://i.imgur.com/2pTFvsJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lVAGGdg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xhlARKJ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/e3VvDgY.jpg)
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One side finished except for cleanup
(https://i.imgur.com/MvydhWQ.jpg)
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Sprayed a bit of Epoxy to keep rust away
(https://i.imgur.com/3DyhdeT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mHcnyyg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Re88pCe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FYovBlJ.jpg)
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Lot of work completed now. Looking good.
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Can someone post some pictures of this area on a 65 66, its where the dash meets the A pillars, I have forgotten what it looks like.
(https://i.imgur.com/vbukbck.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JCbh6Gh.jpg)
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I have a 67 so not sure if they are the same. But does this help. You can zoom in close enough to see most of it.
https://www.vintage-mustang.com/threads/1965-1966-mustang-project-cars-for-sale-truckload-of-parts-one-price.1184861/#lg=thread-1184861&slide=1
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Thanks Tony, couldn't really see much from those for sale cars, I would expect 67 cars to be the same.
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Ok if I have time tonight I'll take a pic of mine.
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Sorry mate, although the site says it will accept 5MB file sizes it rejects my 3.2MB pic.
Maybe PM me with your e-mail address and I can send it to you.
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Brakes for the front turned up today, 8 piston D2 calipers
(https://i.imgur.com/sPUv3Uq.jpg)
Have to machine the hats to fit Ford pattern
(https://i.imgur.com/LNNdstM.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MIzVbZj.jpg)
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Woah Ray, they're very nice! How big are the Rotors?
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Hi Jeff, 330 x 32mm