Mustang Owners Club Australia Forum
Technical & General Discussion Area => Restomods => Topic started by: Haggspeed on March 31, 2019, 10:45:47 pm
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G'day, my name is Jeff, I live in Melbourne and I've been lurking about the forum for years. I figure it's time I created a post about my Mustang project and by doing this it'll spur me on to finish the job!
This has been a very long term commitment. I bought the car, a '67 Fastback, 289, C4, drum Brakes & 8 inch diff in 1989. Built in late 1966 in San Jose, California, it was certainly nothing special, except that it had a very solid and rust-free body. My idea was always to build a hybrid Street/Track car but beyond that I did very little planning and this combined with other events like getting married, having kids and buying houses, meant the project only progressed in fits and spurts. At last I'm in a financial position where I can afford to finish it. I turn 58 in July and my target is to be able to drive it by the time I'm 60!
Here's a run down of the current specs and build state:
To be registered as Victorian M-plate (Modified) CAMS approved Tarmac Rally Car.
BODY: All steel with welded mild-steel CAMS compliant Roll-Cage, Sub-Frame connectors, 85 litre Fuelsafe Fuel Cell, composite Race Seats, Harnesses etc, finished in House Of Kolor "Majestic Blue" paint.
SUSPENSION: Front: RRS power Rack & Pinion steering with electric pump, RRS coil-over Strut conversion with Koni inserts and Kings Springs, tubular adjustable Sway-Bar, all bushes replaced with adjustable Rod-ends. Rear: Custom fabricated Parallel 4-Link with adjustable Rod-Ends, fabricated adjustable Watts-Linkage, Koni coil-overs, adjustable Sway-Bar.
BRAKES: Harrop 343mm 4-piston Discs all round with adjustable bias Tilton Pedal Box.
WHEELS & TYRES: Work Emotion M8R flow-formed alloys, 18 x 9.5 front, 18 x 10.5 rear. Yokohama Advan AD08R 265/35R18 front, 295/30R18 Rear.
ENGINE: 1974 tall-deck 351 Windsor block bored and stroked to 418 cu in, CHI Cleveland 3V alloy Heads, Morrison 8-throttle body EFI, Custom grind Crane solid roller Cam, T&D Roller Rockers, Dailey Engineering billet Dry-Sump.
DRIVE LINE: G-Force T-56 Dog Box possibly with S1 Sequential Shifter, Mantic twin-plate Clutch, Harrop alloy case 9-inch (3.9:1 currently but that may change) with billet yoke and full floating EN26 Axles.
Here's some pictures showing the original condition and a few progress shots.
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Looks great! Can’t wait to see the updates.
I’m in Melbourne also and it would be great to see you on the road or at a cruise one day in the future. My build has taken 6 years now and is almost on the road.
What’ll be first up to do on your list?
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Wow, great build.
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Looks great and good luck with the rest of the build. I've just started the 69 convertible build. Will watch yours with interest.
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Great job. Keep us posted.
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I just got a woody looking at that motor!!! Fire it up!!!
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That blue looks sensational and the motor, i'm drooling!!!!
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Thanks for the encouraging words. The car is currently at the Fabricators getting some extensive reworking done - even though it will mean repainting the Engine Bay, Interior and inside the Boot (one step forward five steps back). First job was installing the RRS Shock-Tower notching kit. This was done to gain as much room as possible for a set of 2 inch diameter, long tube Headers. Next, we're about halfway through mini tubbing and construction of the new rear Suspension. Late last year I bought myself an early Christmas present: the new Wheels. I had 17s but I really needed to go to 18s to have a better choice of wider, stickier rubber. There's still a long list of jobs to be done, I'll try to post images as they are done.
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Hi Jeff, car looks awsome, love the colour and especially love the Morrison cross Ram fuel injection.
Can you tell me a bit more about the Koni inserts and Kings springs for example what length are the inserts and where did you buy them etc. What springs did you get?? Thanks in advance.
Ray.
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Hi Ray. Thanks mate.
Sorry, I haven't acquired the Konis and Kings just yet. As we are currently fabricating the 4-Link, I will be purchasing both fronts and rears in about five or six weeks. From what I've heard from the supplier, Smooth Suspension in Lilydale, VIC, the Strut Inserts are identical to VT-VZ Commodore motorsport parts (as this is what the RRS kit is based on). The rear Coil-Overs will be the steel body 8211 type Konis, which are available in various lengths. The Springs are also available in a wide range of sizes and rates. Rest assured, when I get the parts I'll post images and specs.
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G'day, haven't done any work on the car over Easter, but I have done a Photoshop image of how I'm hoping it'll look when finished. Please bare with me as this the first time I've tried using a link from Imgur:
https://imgur.com/vRIApuq
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Looks very sharp
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G'day, here's an update of what's been happening with the Suspension rework. This is being carried out by Rai Curry of FABRaiCATIONS in Bayswater, who has a lot of experience building rally and race cars. Firstly 700mm long Trailing Arms were fabricated with adjustable Rod Ends and installed.
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The Trailing Arms have Rod-Ends front and rear. The front ones with rubber bushes to alleviate binding at the extremes of Suspension travel. Next more and more Floor was cut away and a Billet alloy Watts Linkage Bracket made by Paris Acott was mocked up.
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Now, the major surgery really begins! To achieve adequate clearance for full Suspension travel, the Exhaust and the Wheel tubs we need to drastically modify the rear Frame Rails - so some cardboard mock-ups were made and modified, many times, to work out what was needed.
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Meanwhile the Coil-Over Suspension units were purchased, as were new Inserts and Springs for the front RRS Struts, from Smooth Suspension in Lilydale. In answer to Rayatswan's question from a while ago: I ended up going with Eibach coils (nothing against Kings springs, just how it worked out). On the front it's got: Koni 8611-1259 double adjustable inserts with 0800-250-0325 Eibach Coils. Which, if you're familiar with the RRS stuff, is the same spring rate, 325 lb/in but a shorter Coil at 8 inches, this is to work with the, shorter travel, Koni inserts. On the rear it's using Koni 8211-1189 Coil-Overs with Eibach 1200-250-0225 Coils. These are the longest travel Shocks in this range and to stop the springs un-seating at full droop it uses Eibach Keeper-Springs and Separaters, as well. NB: Rear Shock is shown with a PCV spacer in place of Spring for mock-up purposes. Also check out the billet alloy top mount Rai made!
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Now Rai has started building the new rear Frame-Rail sections in 1.6mm steel. These will be linked across-car by a length of RHS carrying the Watts-Linkage bracket as well as being tied into the Roll Cage (all this has the blessing of the VASS Engineer). The shape of the new Rails allows the Coil-Overs to be located on top of the Axle and as far outboard as possible - which is all good for the Suspension geometry. NB: Stiffener Plates inside Rails. Also, here's a shot of the inner Wheel Tub spinnings yet to be installed. As you can see there's a lot work been done, but a hell of a lot more still to come...
(https://i.imgur.com/28m6Fd2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/b8Pga5h.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DDYofX4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/K1YN3Tp.jpg)
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Thanks for the update. Looking great.
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Impressive looking build!!!
Is your engineer assisting with the 4 link design and optimisation? So many variables in a rear end design that can be played with.
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Hi trav68,
Thanks mate. Yes, you are correct, there are a lot of lot of variables in designing a suspension system like this. My VASS Engineer is Jeff Watters, he is advising on all the structural and "M" plate compliance aspects of the build. However, the rear Suspension design is primarily the work of Rai Curry using the Suspension design Program "SusProg3D" with input from, a good mate of mine and very experienced Race Car Engineer, Bruce Tyson. So, those two are the main brains behind it with input on Shocks and Springs from Wayne Shearman of Smooth Suspension. Everything is designed to be adjustable within the boundaries arrived at through those guy's experience...
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A heck of a lot of work there Jeff.
Keep it up as it's looking good
And job well done
Al
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Here's an update on the work done over the Christmas period first two shots showing new, radically altered Frame-Rails, now tacked in place on both sides, along with the Cross-Member that locates the Watts-Linkage Bracket.
(https://i.imgur.com/p3iIJDA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/vScPGTy.jpg)
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Also, check out my new, adjustable, billet alloy Watts-Linkage Bracket! This features Roll-Centre height adjustment via a knob accessed in the Boot. It’s a thing of pure joy and beauty, with a sprung ratchet providing one click for each full turn of the knob, denoting 2mm of adjustment - pity it lives under the car! Made by Paris Acott of Acott Race Craft in Sunbury, Vic.
(https://i.imgur.com/mSfVoBH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9etW717.jpg)
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Wow Jeff, can’t wait to follow this build, nice work...
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A heck of a lot of work there Jeff.
Keep it up as it's looking good
And job well done
Al
That's a brilliant job, well done. Just a question on the 4 bar rear set up. Would it have been better to uses bearing bird cages for the 4 bar links to attach to. It looks as though there will be a lot of binding when the car rolls and tries to rear steer. Take a look a Dirt Late Model 4 bar rear.
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Hi everyone, hope you are all coping OK with the Corona-lockdown! I've not been able to get over to Rai's to check out progress, but fortunately he sent through a few shots of the fabrication of the Mini-Tubs: First image shows RH Wheel-House from underneath, just held together with Clecos and G-clamps.
(https://i.imgur.com/oOKvMpb.jpg)
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These images show the Wheel-Houses from inside. On the RH side view you can see the top of the Shock Turret tacked in place. When you see both sides together it shows just how much wider than stock they are. Just in case you are wondering, no there won't be a back seat in this thing...
(https://i.imgur.com/vzOs40y.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LVohDzd.jpg)
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Time for a post lock-down up-date. Not a lot has happened over the last six months. Main thing is the rear Mini-Tubs and Shock-Turrets are welded in place, though still not finished. First image shows the RH work in progress from the rear, looking through the boot. Next shot shows LH side from inside the cabin. Then the RH side from outside looking through the Wheel-Arch. Finally the diff assembly is shown from underneath with Suspension at full droop. Although we've lost a lot of time, I'm still very happy with the way it's shaping up. The rear end will have more than adequate travel and will be completely adjustable in every parameter. Next job, will be the adjustable tubular rear Sway-Bar.
(https://i.imgur.com/Wpe3Sdy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ucRQaqA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mIt0F52.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/da9uK9S.jpg)
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Meanwhile, we've started the Engine build process! First thing is the acquisition of some goodies. A new Scat Pro-Series forged lightweight, Crankshaft with a stroke of 4.100" will swing Scat forged H-Beam Con-Rods of 6.2" length, topped off with a set of Mahle forged PowerPak Cleveland Pistons. This will result in a capacity of 418 Cu In or 6.8 Litres with a compression ratio of 10.5:1. We will check clearances etc with a dummy assembly, then it will be off to the Engine Machine Shop for a full neutral balance...
(https://i.imgur.com/aLjMUId.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6IWKiz0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZhfME0N.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4glQkRB.jpg)
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Thanks for the update Jeff
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G'day, thought I'd show some of the Engine Block preparation. This will give you an idea of what's involved when putting a big-stroke Crank into a stock Ford 351 Windsor Block. NB: I acquired this Block from a previous Engine Builder (who proved very unreliable). At the time it was a good find, in that it was a standard bore 1974 casting in very good condition. Of the original 351 Windsors, I'm of the opinion these Truck Blocks were the best, with slightly thicker and taller decks at 9.503", with quite a lot of meat around the bottom end too. However, if I was starting this now I'd get an after-market Dart, World or Ford Racing Block. They are heaps stronger everywhere and offer the added advantage of the bigger 4.125" bore and the Cleveland size Main Bearing Journals. Oh well, maybe next time!
I should also point out, some of this work was done a few years ago.
First three images show clearance grinding at the base of the cylinder bores and sump-rails to provide adequate clearance for the rotating assembly. Everything fits nicely and this sort of attention to detail should prevent issues in the future.
(https://i.imgur.com/criDbbI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0dk4DJi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CdUUVfY.jpg)
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The next image shows some of the deburring and clean-up that was done to the block. All areas where oil drain-back might be hindered were deburred and polished with a wire wheel. Note also, all edges have been given a light deburring too. Next the block was sent to the Machine Shop, where it was bored 0.030" over, four-bolt Main-Caps fitted & tunnel bored, Decks trued, and all Bearing clearances set and checked. 2nd shot, shows the Crankshaft dummy-fitted again. For the money, I think the Scat Crank is really quite nice with lightening holes on all crank pins, centre gun-drilling and areo-contoured counterweights, everything looks good. ARP Head Studs also fitted and external engine paint applied.
(https://i.imgur.com/mQmjz5A.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/lOUNZ8l.jpg)
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Well, some meaningful progress has been made on my project recently! Here's some shots showing work being carried out on the new rear Floor, rear Suspension Turrets and Wheel Tubs.
(https://i.imgur.com/6qy2hcX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WwJHiPp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/q7AlxUG.jpg)
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Nice. I would clear coat those welds!!!!!!! :omg: :omg: :omg:
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The Cabin rear Floor is now finished. The tray over the Trailing Arms closes out the area above where the mufflers will be. It will also provide an area inside the car for storage (helmet, tools, etc). My plan is that it will look sort of similar to the original folded rear seat. Also, the Battery will be located between this and the LH rear Wheel-House. Next job is make a new Boot Floor with the Fuel-Cell re-located centrally and an access hole for draining the Dry-Sump Tank.
(https://i.imgur.com/1z7u9s7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DdwWTdG.jpg)
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There's been quite a bit going on with my Mustang project recently.
After the Suspension and rear Cabin Floor was finished off, we've moved on to the front of the car. While the shell is totally rust free, it has suffered, previously, from some really dodgy RHD conversion work. Resulting in a Dash and Firewall that was very poorly welded together. A bit like a jigsaw puzzle with some pieces in the wrong spots and some missing all together, all hidden under a thick layer of bog! So the decision was taken to remove the offending areas and start again.
First pic shows the Firewall, after the paint and up to 10mm of body filler was blasted off. Next shows the Dash and Firewall removed altogether.
(https://i.imgur.com/9ofFnZy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fElNvEA.jpg)
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We also took the opportunity to re-build the inner rear Fender Skirts on both sides, as they too had also been butchered previously.
(https://i.imgur.com/4NVAcxi.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8nEtjGI.jpg)
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By going to a flat Firewall with no heater bulge, the Engine can be set back 60mm as shown in this image. While the next shot shows the new Firewall and the new wider, taller transmission Tunnel from inside the vehicle.
(https://i.imgur.com/6ig2TxC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mgmyRYo.jpg)
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Hey Jeff,
It's coming along beautifully, can't believe your patience!
Cheers Phil
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Hi Phil, they tell me patience is a virtue, but I think it's more of a curse...
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Here's the view from underneath the car showing all the mods so far...
New Trans Tunnel allows plenty of room for the T56. While at the back you can see the new rear Suspension now finished and between the Trailing-Arms the space for mufflers is now much larger.
(https://i.imgur.com/bn0t9Vw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ZrM7hRf.jpg)
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Here's a shot of the boot showing the Dry-Sump Tank installed, it just fits under the Boot Lid when closed. Also the aperture in the Boot Floor was centralized to the centerline of the car allowing equal space either side of the Fuel Cell for the Exhausts. Last pic is the new RHD Dash Panel, I just bought. It will require modifications for the Roll Cage, but is a vast improvement from the shambles I had in the car previously.
(https://i.imgur.com/SLiMBWT.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/dJFG95g.jpg)
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Looking fantastic. Super attention to detail
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Hey Jeff, quick question mate, I have been checking out the Koni Shocks you purchased and noticed the 2nd adjuster is on the bottom of the shock which in the RRS struts you can't access, how are you going to fix this, wouldn't mind getting a set myself.
Cheers Ray
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Hi Ray, hmm that's a very good question! I gotta admit I haven't looked too closely at the Front Strut Legs since they came back from the shop that fitted the inserts. Currently, my car is at the fabricators and we're locked-down here in Vic (and will be for at least a few weeks more). So I can't get over there, but I certainly need to - I'll get back to you...
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Cheers mate
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Hey Jeff, quick question mate, I have been checking out the Koni Shocks you purchased and noticed the 2nd adjuster is on the bottom of the shock which in the RRS struts you can't access, how are you going to fix this, wouldn't mind getting a set myself.
Cheers Ray
Hi Ray, sorry for taking so long to answer, finally got a chance to take some photos today. NB: I didn't install the Koni Inserts myself, that was done by the supplier, however it appears pretty self evident how it works. First image: To answer your question, yes a large hole was cut into the bottom of the Strut housing to allow the Retainer to screw into the insert and to give access to the lower (Bump) Adjuster. Second image: Shows the lower Strut and Knuckle assembly installed in vehicle...
Hope this answers your question.
(https://i.imgur.com/j4r9Ah7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Gx6SEBn.jpg)
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Hey Jeff, thanks for getting back to me, the pictures sure do answer the question.
Cheers
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Things are moving forward again on my project, after Melbourne's last Lock-Down finally ended ...and I've been shown how to post photos from Imgur (thanks Shane). Fabrication has started on the new, Motorsport Australia (CAMS) compliant, chrome-moly Roll Cage. These images show the initial work on the Main Hoop and upper bracing structure. Side Intrusion-Bar design along with the Forward Legs and Dash-Bar detail.
(https://i.imgur.com/qnt9dlx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nFvF1u2.jpg)
Paris Acott also completed the work on the alloy Rear Sway-Bar Arms. I'm very pleased with these, they are works of art!
(https://i.imgur.com/bgV36ts.jpg)
Finally, I received an early Christmas present, when the G-Force, heavy duty Gear and Dog conversion kit arrived for the T-56 from the States! This will make the Transmission bullet proof, good for up to 1200 HP they say (not that I'll be making anything like that). Check out the size of the Gears and the Main-Shaft. The bearings are also massive and will require machining of the Case. This kit runs Dog engagement on the first four Gears and Corvette triple-cone synchros on the Overdrives. It even comes with a H/D Shifter Fork and bronze Pads. The idea being for super fast and positive shifts for competition work, with the ease of the O/Ds for driving to and from the track. The gears all have a mild helical cut, so it will be noisier than a standard T-56, but nothing like a straight-cut race-car transmission. Ratios are: 1st: 2.71 2nd: 1.79 3rd: 1.30 4th: 1.00 5th: 0.86 6th: 0.75 - a little bit closer than a wide ratio Top-Loader with two more gears on top! Here's a link: http://gforcetransmissions.com.au/street-t56/
(https://i.imgur.com/4GLa3gL.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CFsY7so.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mLuhx8o.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/7nIZOrR.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Xv2Ptrp.jpg)
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It's been a very long while between posts but I finally have something to share. The Chrome Molly, Roll Cage is now finished! Here's a shot through the left door. The Dash, is now removable (bolted in). The Tilton Pedal Box and XE Falcon Steering Column will be supported by the Roll Cage (under Dash Bar) with extra brackets to the Fire Wall.
(https://i.imgur.com/k9fQcQh.jpg)
Next shot, through the windscreen, gives a good view of the A-Pillar tags and how much reinforcing is in the Cage structure.
(https://i.imgur.com/UOYecmX.jpg)
Here's the right hand side with the Driver's Seat installed. Seating position is now much lower than original on fabricated RHS tubes.
(https://i.imgur.com/dKigDHr.jpg)
And through the rear window.
(https://i.imgur.com/remLJR3.jpg)
Finally, this image shows the Cage tied in to the front Shock Tower structure and also the location of the ZF Electric Power Steering Pump.
(https://i.imgur.com/Y9s2X3D.jpg)