Mustang Owners Club Australia Forum
Technical & General Discussion Area => Restomods => Topic started by: aus_67stang on July 31, 2017, 09:27:45 pm
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I've been lurking around for a while and thought I should post my resto story too.
Like so many others, this build wasn't going to be a big or long resto, just fix it up and have some fun.... but we know how that turns out :lmao: It has been a long journey, I've had the car for a little over 18 years and it's never been on the road, it's traveled to QLD & back when I temporarily relocated for work, been in storage because of only having rentals with no places to work on her.... but, she's been a passion for such a long time that it's now time to get her finished and enjoy the ride.
I picked up the old girl as a rolling jigsaw puzzle, boxes of bits and no idea of what was missing but was prepared to give it a go (as this is / was my first build of any sort).
It all looked relatively straight to start with but as I started to scratch the surface, well, not everything was what it seemed.
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Welcome to this forum Steve. 67 Coupes are such a great looking ride, but I may be biased as I have had mine for 12 years now. What are your plans? Are you going factory std or resto mod or ??? Mine is still a 289 C-code auto White with black interior. I get lots of fun from it and lots of compliments too. Good luck. :thumb: :event: :burnout: :coolpic:
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Hopefully things start falling into place for you to make some decent progress on the build.
What have you got planned for the car?
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On closer inspection I find that the previous owner decided to replace the rear qtr, but instead of getting new replacements he gets a rear qtr section from a junked mustang. He unpicks some of qtr (at the door jam and roof sail (if you call it that) but the just cuts around the inner wheel well and past the tail lights so he doesn't have to unpick & weld all those spotwelds.
Puts it all back on, over laps the inner wheel well but welds the tail panel and all looks good, well, that was until you try and close the trunk... guess what, no boot gap, I think someone forgot to allow for the 2mm cutting blade width of the grinder, and cut the wrong side of the line. Looking down the qtr and the line is just awful :(
The rocker panel, isn't much better, it's had a hit at some time and now full of holes to try and pull it out straight but it looks like Swiss cheese; the door wasn't much better so, what the heck, whilst we're at it we'll replace that too.
So, first job for this first time build is...... replace a whole lot of sheet metal.
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Welcome to this forum Steve. 67 Coupes are such a great looking ride, but I may be biased as I have had mine for 12 years now. What are your plans? Are you going factory std or resto mod or ??? Mine is still a 289 C-code auto White with black interior. I get lots of fun from it and lots of compliments too. Good luck. :thumb: :event: :burnout: :coolpic:
Thanks for the welcome IGALOP, since I can only post 4 photos I'll slowly build out the story but it's now on the mild restomod path .....
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Hopefully things start falling into place for you to make some decent progress on the build.
What have you got planned for the car?
Hi Dwayne, the plans are well underway ... I'll keep adding posts to the thread to build the story & plan out :)
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After this bit of work is when things started to take a turn for the ... worst :D
I was in search of an engine as the one that came with it was also in bits, I'd rebuilt an engine in the past but was looking for something what had been running to start with an not a rusted boat anchor......
I found an 87 mustang GT HO 5.0 in the Trading Post, complete with ECU, harness and C6 transmission, seemed fair enough, it's a Winsdor right... how hard could this be. Now I didn't have an engine hoist to drop it into the old girl but my mate did have a cherry picker.... the things we do when you're younger and .....
After plenty of research on the interweb I was able to find plenty of information about how to get running with only the minimum sensors, etc., so that took some time but at the end of the day way able to get it running.
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ooohhhh ... just realised that I got the engine before the panel replacement! :lmao:
With that done I moved onto making it stop and steer, so:
- RRS power Rack
- RRS 287mm Rear brakes
- Hoppers Stoppers 330mm Front brakes
- Flaming River tilt column
- Lokar tunnel mount e-brake
Things were going pretty well whilst in QLD so I decided to spoil myself a little so I bought a set of Foose Nitros II 's, I located a guy in Aus that was bringing them in but he was asking for huge $$$ so I shopped around a little. I hooked up with Westcoast wheels in the US, they we able to supply the wheels and ship them to my door for less than 1/2 the price of what the guy in Perth was quoting me... So, I did the right thing, and ordered them from the US :) two weeks later they turn up at my door... wait for it.... with rubber on them !! 235x45x18 & 245x40x18 now that was a bargain.
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A little more tinkering in preparation for painting and find rust, in the floor .. so that gets patch and we think we're good to go for a paint.... a few things happen and we're heading home back to Melbourne.
Fast forward a little ...
I've never really liked the way the seat belts are fitted from the roof rail or run over the shoulder near the door jam, so I was looking for an alternative, and found something a little different that would do the job; BMW seats :bolt: Yes, BMW seats.
The 330 Coupes & Convertibles have a nice seat that has the seat belt built into the seat, that'll resolve the mounting issues. Sure, but that brings on a whole other set of problems, mounting them. So I located an engineer and work with him to design a structure to support the seats and have enough strength to accept the forces in case of an accident.
More fabrication work, replace the floor and we're all good.
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A couple of photos from the test fit.
As you can see from the photo, I also lashed out and topped off the steering column with a nice Flaming River waterfall wheel.
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Right, all ready to go off for paint.... I better buy some qtr end caps before I send her off, fit them up to see how it looks..... uuummm... somethings not quite right.
So, it appears that the right qtr has been hit as well and shrunk or pulled back into some sort of shape, so you guessed it, off with this qtr panel too and on with a new one.
Now the car is off and getting painted, a side job for a guy so it's taking some time but whilst its away it means I can keep rebuilding stuff.
First is the dash cluster, replaced all the gauges with Stewart Warner electronic gauges, fitted behind a new RHD panel; It's a 68 panel but I like the "correct" RHD version, one came with the car that had been plastic welded to RHD but looked less than impressive but this is pretty good IMO.
Next was the fuel pump setup. I didn't want to have fuel surge issues so went with an external tank swirl pot setup, it has a low pressure / high volume feeding into the swirl pot with the high pressure pump on the other side. The swirl pot is actually a filter as well and has a return port built into the setup, I got this from BC Bronko's in the US. This will sit between the diff and the tank with the return going into the drain plug of the tank.
Next was the engine, since I was putting it into a nice clean body and everything else was looking good it was only right that I freshened up the engine too. So stripped back down, cleaned and painted everything and all back together. I did add some extra goodies whilst I was at it, a set of polished Aluminum Covers, an EGR Eliminator, and an upgraded the Alt to a 130A unit; all of these bit from Late Model Mustang in the US.
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That's coming along very nicely. I used the same engine in a Shelby Cobra I built a few years ago. Very smooth although in hindsight I should have used an after market ECU as I was never happy with the original ECU and bypassed sensors.
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That's coming along very nicely. I used the same engine in a Shelby Cobra I built a few years ago. Very smooth although in hindsight I should have used an after market ECU as I was never happy with the original ECU and bypassed sensors.
x1000
I have the original ecu/connectors, and while I have made it work with great success, there is absolutely no support for the older ford stuff anymore, plus genuine sensors are bloody expensive.
I am most likely upgrading to a megasquirt pro, getting rid of the dizzy and using gm sensors.
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x1000
I have the original ecu/connectors, and while I have made it work with great success, there is absolutely no support for the older ford stuff anymore, plus genuine sensors are bloody expensive.
I am most likely upgrading to a megasquirt pro, getting rid of the dizzy and using gm sensors.
thanks for the heads up guys,
I've got a number of plugs / bypass "things" from Ron Morris and LMR in the US that are meant to remove the error codes from the ECU and make it think they are still connected, so hopefully that will be good for now.
After such a long build and waiting to get it on the road I'm making a bit of a straight line to the finish and trying to avoid extra detours along the way; I've had a few of those already and the wife now wants it done.
But, that does give me something to think about as the next update once on the road, along with the Supercharger :evilone:
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Other bits and plans...
Bits
I travel to the US a couple of times a year for work so it's an easy way to bring back cheaper parts without the shipping costs, just have everything shipped to the hotel the week before and they are waiting for me when I arrive... a little bit like Christmas each time I visit.
Other bits that are still sitting on the shelf:
- full body bolt kit
- American Autowire upgrade kit
- California Pony Cars Shelby Bullet mirrors
- Magnaflow stainless square oval exhaust tips
- Central locking kit
- Dual circuit engine mobiliser
- Mustang Depot triangulated x brace
- some new interior & exterior shiny bits
The Plan
Things on the plan that I need to work out include changing over from at Auto to a T5 manual, there's plenty of info on the change and how to use a EB 6 pot falcon T5 so that part is pretty easy, the main challenge is going to be the clutch setup. I "think" the better option is going to be sourcing an early falcon pedal box and graft it into the mustang assembly, I'd prefer a hydraulic clutch so not sure which way to go with that; Modern Driveline have a good setup but not sure about the other options... any suggestions??
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The Plan
Things on the plan that I need to work out include changing over from at Auto to a T5 manual, there's plenty of info on the change and how to use a EB 6 pot falcon T5 so that part is pretty easy, the main challenge is going to be the clutch setup. I "think" the better option is going to be sourcing an early falcon pedal box and graft it into the mustang assembly, I'd prefer a hydraulic clutch so not sure which way to go with that; Modern Driveline have a good setup but not sure about the other options... any suggestions??
UI think the general consensus for the clutch is to go with a setup from Mal Wood.
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Hi,
Looks good so far :-) I like the filter/swirl pot.
BTW did you use the RRS spindles/hubs when you installed the rack? I think you have to as it will impact the turning circle of the car.
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UI think the general consensus for the clutch is to go with a setup from Mal Wood.
Thanks Dwayne,
I've contacted Mal Wood to get some info from them.
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BTW did you use the RRS spindles/hubs when you installed the rack? I think you have to as it will impact the turning circle of the car.
I've just used the stock spindles, I haven't had everything hooked up at once to be able to check the turning circle (yet), it'll be something I'll have to remember and check during the assembly stage.
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Things on the plan that I need to work out include changing over from at Auto to a T5 manual, there's plenty of info on the change and how to use a EB 6 pot falcon T5 so that part is pretty easy, the main challenge is going to be the clutch setup. I "think" the better option is going to be sourcing an early falcon pedal box and graft it into the mustang assembly, I'd prefer a hydraulic clutch so not sure which way to go with that; Modern Driveline have a good setup but not sure about the other options... any suggestions??
Yeah i used an au xr6 t5. Not sure on the eb's, but most of the 6cyl t5's had a shorter input shaft, which means the v8 t5 bellhousing's wont work. You can get a conversion bellhousing from Dellow, which is what I used. The stock falcon v8 bellhousing are also no good for most conversion as they have the starter on the lhd side. The local v8's also had a longer input shaft than the us mustangs ha ha.....way to go australia
I used the Malwood hydraulic setup. Definitely the way to go. You send him up the pedal box and the t5 bearing retainer, and you will get back the underdash clutch master setup, a machined bearing retainer to suit the hydraulic throw out bearing, plus the throw out bearing and fluid reservoir. The clutch is so smooth and light. Almost 3000km's and no dramas so far.
I also used the american autowire harness, plus installed central locking and power windows if you need any pointers with it.
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No experience with the Mal wood set up but I have the Modern Driveline hydraulic gear in mine and have been very happy with it.
I really think its worth getting the first gear in the T5 changed from the common low 3.35 to 2.95 unless you plan on a pretty tall diff ratio. Otherwise you render first gear more or less redundant. That said, I think Husky has the 3.35 in his with 3.55 diff and finds it OK so he may want to comment.
If you don't use an internal concentric throw out bearing like Mal's or the Tilton one I have and stick with a conventional fork and bearing you need to change the bearing support to a steel one. The original aluminium ones wear as the bearing travels along them and get scored and scratched and end up binding.
Also, put a short shifter on it at the outset. The original ones have way too long a throw when you put a relatively long lever on them like you need on an early Mustang and it's pretty much impossible to change the shifter with the trans in the car. Ask me how I know.
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Yeah i used an au xr6 t5. Not sure on the eb's, but most of the 6cyl t5's had a shorter input shaft, which means the v8 t5 bellhousing's wont work. You can get a conversion bellhousing from Dellow, which is what I used. The stock falcon v8 bellhousing are also no good for most conversion as they have the starter on the lhd side. The local v8's also had a longer input shaft than the us mustangs ha ha.....way to go australia
I used the Malwood hydraulic setup. Definitely the way to go. You send him up the pedal box and the t5 bearing retainer, and you will get back the underdash clutch master setup, a machined bearing retainer to suit the hydraulic throw out bearing, plus the throw out bearing and fluid reservoir. The clutch is so smooth and light. Almost 3000km's and no dramas so far.
I also used the american autowire harness, plus installed central locking and power windows if you need any pointers with it.
Thanks Husky,
I'm looking at the pre-AU T5 as it has the shorter housing and the shifter lines up with the original floor hole and trans cross member. What did the setup from Malwood cost you?
Happy for any pointers with the wiring too, the kit looks pretty comprehensive
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Yeah that's right, the extension housing is longer on the au's, and I had to relocate the crossmember back as well as the shifter hole. To be honest, having the shifter back a few inches makes it a bit more comfy, but not at the worth of all that work if you don't have to.
It was around 690 for the pedal conversion, around 500 for the thrust bearing, shims, braided lines and reservoir. This was a couple years ago now so may have changed.
I got all the clutch/shifter etc from the states via ebay...much cheaper.
Also, replace the shifter cup bushing with a bronze one you can buy on ebay. The plastic one is pretty crappy, and the bronze one did firm up the shift a fair bit.
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I really think its worth getting the first gear in the T5 changed from the common low 3.35 to 2.95 unless you plan on a pretty tall diff ratio. Otherwise you render first gear more or less redundant. That said, I think Husky has the 3.35 in his with 3.55 diff and finds it OK so he may want to comment.
Yeah I have the 3.35 first with 3.55 rears. While I think it would be better with the 2.95, it's not like it's undrivable or anything. You just have to shift VERY quickly if you're going more than 50%. When I rebuild this box, I will probably change it, but I wouldn't spend extra money for the sake of the first gear ratio from the get go.
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No experience with the Mal wood set up but I have the Modern Driveline hydraulic gear in mine and have been very happy with it.
I really think its worth getting the first gear in the T5 changed from the common low 3.35 to 2.95 unless you plan on a pretty tall diff ratio. Otherwise you render first gear more or less redundant. That said, I think Husky has the 3.35 in his with 3.55 diff and finds it OK so he may want to comment.
If you don't use an internal concentric throw out bearing like Mal's or the Tilton one I have and stick with a conventional fork and bearing you need to change the bearing support to a steel one. The original aluminium ones wear as the bearing travels along them and get scored and scratched and end up binding.
Also, put a short shifter on it at the outset. The original ones have way too long a throw when you put a relatively long lever on them like you need on an early Mustang and it's pretty much impossible to change the shifter with the trans in the car. Ask me how I know.
Thanks Geoff, a short shifter is definitely on the list, seems to be a must have for many reasons.... and good to know to put it in first before installing the gearbox.
Also thanks for the extra info on the throw out bearing and the support / retainer.
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Yeah that's right, the extension housing is longer on the au's, and I had to relocate the crossmember back as well as the shifter hole. To be honest, having the shifter back a few inches makes it a bit more comfy, but not at the worth of all that work if you don't have to.
It was around 690 for the pedal conversion, around 500 for the thrust bearing, shims, braided lines and reservoir. This was a couple years ago now so may have changed.
I got all the clutch/shifter etc from the states via ebay...much cheaper.
Also, replace the shifter cup bushing with a bronze one you can buy on ebay. The plastic one is pretty crappy, and the bronze one did firm up the shift a fair bit.
ok, not too bad I guess.... I need to adjust the pedal box as the person who done the firewall conversion must have had a bent string line and the firewall / pedal box mounting area isn't square, I need to adjust the mount section to lineup with the firewall alignment... So I have to cut up the pedal box anyway so I may have a hack at it on my own to start with and see how it goes.
I nee the slightly shorter gearbox housing after the frame work that I've done for the seats, if it goes too far towards the rear of the car there will be clearance issues with the uni joint and frame.
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I have a few photos of the modified pedal box if you want to use it as reference. I"m not positive, but I think they might use a ba falcon clutch master cylinder.
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I have a few photos of the modified pedal box if you want to use it as reference. I"m not positive, but I think they might use a ba falcon clutch master cylinder.
that'd be great, the next rebuild project is the pedal box so it's perfect timing. :coolpic:
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(https://preview.ibb.co/exkeFQ/IMG_3946.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jD689k)
(https://preview.ibb.co/g6NRvQ/IMG_3945.jpg) (https://ibb.co/nPTc25)
(https://preview.ibb.co/noJiaQ/DSC00392.jpg) (https://ibb.co/jUPOaQ)
(https://preview.ibb.co/moiS25/DSC00394.jpg) (https://ibb.co/dCUd9k)
I bought a new pedal box off a guy from the states that adjusts the brake pedal for use with a later model booster, aswell as adding a rollerized bearing. You can buy the bearing off him via ebay, would recommend it. http://stores.ebay.com/MustangSteve-Performance?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
I can also recommend his rear brake disc bracket. It allows fitment of late model mustang discs/calipers. My whole rear brake assembly cost about $800, brand new parts.
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I bought a new pedal box off a guy from the states that adjusts the brake pedal for use with a later model booster, aswell as adding a rollerized bearing. You can buy the bearing off him via ebay, would recommend it. http://stores.ebay.com/MustangSteve-Performance?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
I can also recommend his rear brake disc bracket. It allows fitment of late model mustang discs/calipers. My whole rear brake assembly cost about $800, brand new parts.
Awesome photos, thanks for the info, a quick hunt and the master definitely looks like a BA type so I know the direction to head from there..... and the roller bearings look good too!!
I already have a set of RRS 285mm rear discs, hopefully they help puller her up nicely.
I've also got a set of Lokar pedal covers and a Lokar accelerator pedal sitting on the shelf, they look pretty good in the photos you have; do they holdup well, after the 3000k's of use?
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It's been a quiet few weeks, most of the time has been spent research the clutch and brake setup and the approach to take base on all the good info provided by Husky65.
Went for a visit to see the body / paint guy, a fair bit of progress has been made and is in the final stages of prep :D since a bit of work was needed to enure the dash was straight, I decided to have a test fit of the dash before it gets some color.
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RHD I just used a Falcon pedal box and welded the dash end of the mustang one to it. Then falcon booster and Clutch master cylinder from an XB . Then all the pedal ratios are correct. I run a Toploader so it has an external slave and got braided line from Mal Wood.
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Just caught up with this thread. Great to see another build thread going.
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RHD I just used a Falcon pedal box and welded the dash end of the mustang one to it. Then falcon booster and Clutch master cylinder from an XB . Then all the pedal ratios are correct. I run a Toploader so it has an external slave and got braided line from Mal Wood.
Thanks shaunp, still looking at all options, I was going to try and have it done before the car returns from paint have decided to wait until it returns to ensure everything lines up correctly.
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Today was another step closer, down to see the progress and in stead of the painter preparing a sample paint card he decided to go with painting one of the small panels .... no buffing or polish work, it's a little hard to see some of the metallic effect in the photos but the video is better.
(https://i.imgur.com/GDu7Oprl.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/tZ3eDT0l.jpg)
Video of the panel:
https://www.facebook.com/aus67stang/videos/2107298622629124/ (https://www.facebook.com/aus67stang/videos/2107298622629124/)
Then on to modifying the door lock mechanism to accommodate the central locking solenoid.
(https://i.imgur.com/TJllHJgl.jpg) (https://i.imgur.com/3TMqTuhl.jpg)
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Nice job on the solenoids, they look pretty big. Looks so much easier to do it with the locks out, can't believe I installed them with one arm through the door with only my sense of touch to guide me.
The colour looks great too. Is that what the exterior colour will be?
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its strange how large the solenoids look, I think it looks worse because they are closer to the camera / phone :( and was much, much easier out than what it would have been in the car.
Yup, thats going to be the external color too.... Its a 2006 BA colour called Ego.
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Solonoids look about right, quite large. I screwed mine to the door frame behind the panel and connected the rod through the eyelet and clamped it to the lock rod on my 66. Works fines. A lot better not having to use the key. Nice colour to.
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You are doing it gloss inside? they were satin origianlly
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Bookmarking this page for the power door lock photos :cheers:
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Solonoids look about right, quite large. I screwed mine to the door frame behind the panel and connected the rod through the eyelet and clamped it to the lock rod on my 66. Works fines. A lot better not having to use the key. Nice colour to.
I was trying to work out how to mount them in the door and not having it fowl the window, etc., since I'm removing the external door lock I thought this would work well too.
You are doing it gloss inside? they were satin originally
shaunp, still going gloss, I know it's not standard but there's going to be a few things that won't be original so it will sort of work (hopefully) :)
Bookmarking this page for the power door lock photos :cheers:
Cool Dwayne, hope they help a little for future reference.
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The long wait is now over, the old girl has arrived home all dressed up and ready for the dance :pepper:
you can see a short video of the colour:
https://youtu.be/IZrWemweWqU (https://youtu.be/IZrWemweWqU)
and now it's time to start putting everything on her, below is the fuel cap reassembled :)
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That looks sick and will look even better with shiney chromey bits on it..
Well done mate. :evilone:
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There's been a few updates over the past few weeks...
- Tail lights & backup lamps sorted
- I'm using Car Builders heat and acoustic insulation in the roof and then the headliner all done
- rear glass is in
- all the door rubbers & window to roof rail seals done!
- rear 1/4 windows in
- California Pony Cars mirrors painted and fitted
a pity the sun wasn't out for most of the time but still get to see the sparkle now and again :)
(https://i.imgur.com/WTLjY8C.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8AZAe8F.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/SnXKbGw.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ubyym9P.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mAbzYfu.jpg)
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I find that the previous owner decided to replace the rear qtr, but instead of getting new replacements he gets a rear qtr section from a junked mustang. He unpicks some of qtr (at the door jam and roof sail (if you call it that) but the just cuts around the inner wheel well and past the tail lights so he doesn't have to unpick & weld all those spotwelds.
You're lucky, there was a pic here of one PO that welded the new quarter on top of the old one, lol
s
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More progress :)
Finally got around to doing the Pedal box, sourced a BA / BF manual setup and used both the clutch assembly and brake pedal which means the pedals no longer point to the left. Everything had to be customised to the firewall and not a standard pedal box since it is so out of whack.
I also used the BA switches for the brake and brake fail lights.
from:
(https://i.imgur.com/aSvZpgK.jpg)
to:
(https://i.imgur.com/Z846zY3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/y8uly3S.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/6Z4Bjwa.jpg)
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Love seeing the effort you put into this beauty, man. Keep it up
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Love seeing the effort you put into this beauty, man. Keep it up
Thanks Davigg
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Pedal box looks great!
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Pedal box looks great!
Thanks Husky65 :)
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another item off the fabrication list....
Since I have started the amazing job of rewiring the old girl it was time to sort out one part of Mission Control sorted ...
due to some of the changes and fabrication work I am removing the floor mounted wiper / washer pedal and also the high beam button and relocating them to the dash.
From an idea to paper:
(https://i.imgur.com/5ZNcWV2.jpg)
and from paper to reality:
(https://i.imgur.com/NNtRRnH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/exDia2n.jpg)
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That looks awesome. Very professional. It's easy to add things, but to make them look like they were meant to be there is something else. Are they Billet Automotive buttons?
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Very impressive!
s
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That looks awesome. Very professional. It's easy to add things, but to make them look like they were meant to be there is something else. Are they Billet Automotive buttons?
Thanks Husky, they are Blue Wire Automotive buttons and start kit.. they probably use the same supplier as Billet Automotive :smile01:
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Very impressive!
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Thanks Stephen!
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It's been a while since I last posted, work getting in the way of progress but a few things have happened in recent months.
Since the wiring has is mostly sorted it was time to start the sound deadening, every place I and fit my arm has had Car Builders heat & sound deadener installed.
(https://i.imgur.com/TQVWUK0.jpg)
Next stop was the brake and Fuel lines:
Installed the Hoppers Stoppers 8 & 1/2" Booster kit with a Aeroflow bias valve to make sure the balance can be set right.
Fuel lines run down the tunnel to the rear of the car, Aeroflow fuel regulator with the hardline terminating directly on the regulator.
(https://i.imgur.com/D2VhB3j.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iPWsy0C.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HAHkcye.jpg)
Fitting of the window assemblies are well underway to get it to a sealed state.
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Someones been a good boy this year :)
(https://i.imgur.com/wvvnO0w.jpg)
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Nice mate. Dellow bellhousing?
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Nice mate. Dellow bellhousing?
Nah, this one is from Castlemaine Rod Shop
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And after a long separation they are back together :pepper: :pepper:
(https://i.imgur.com/tBRsdaQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nSMzTw6.jpg)