New to Importing, Please Help

[StephenSLR]

Torana's are becoming more popular by the day.

Yeah I know and I'm getting annoyed at constantly being asked if I want to sell. They all want to butcher it with flares, etc. and think they'll get it cheap.

I drove this car since high school and it's unlikely I'll sell it. Although it's non-original from radiator to diff, the body and interior are as I always remembered it and it's a trip down memory lane every time I drive it.  It's good to know it's appreciating in value but also makes it more of a target for thieves.

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[Dwayne]

target for thieves.

Get a GPS tracker for it, they're cheap and the thieving bustards probably wouldn't expect it on your car.

[StephenSLR]

Get a GPS tracker for it, they're cheap and the thieving bustards probably wouldn't expect it on your car.

True but they can also steal pieces from it in situ. Side mirrors, etc. and you'd have to track it down within hours or it'll be totally stripped and dumped.

Of course your advice is good, better some tracking than nothing.

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[fredm666]

So since people prompted me to post cars I was considering up here for opinions how about this:
https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Ford-Mustang-1969/SSE-AD-5009783/?_ga=2.28423807.233762229.1508390042-1332947767.1503644747&_gac=1.220527978.1512917383.Cj0KCQjwtpDMBRC4ARIsADhz5O5uBx5uRFqTVEcDGQAtG5gwm-UZw2zNmGYYmjW43p5KlacEBnutiqoaAlMJEALw_wcB

The guy reckons it's super straight, so thoughts? 

hey Tim.
I start saying I'm not a big expert, way less than 99% of the people in this forum. Personally I would not touch that '69 in the ad you posted.
A couple of years ago I was more or less in the situation you are right now, I really wanted to buy a classic mustang because it has been always my dream but my budget was under $20k. I started to look at cars live and online and for that amount of money a lot of crap or dodgy cars came up. People saying "very straight car" with rust around or mechanically pretty bad or crazy work on the car.
At the end of the day I was going to spend way more than the forecast just to fix it, because I had to consider ALL the cost involved.

So I decided to set up a different budget and wait more time so I was able to save more money. Last May I bought a '64 V8, more expensive than the $20k originally planned but way better than the majority I saw around. Then I just spent around $5k in the last 6 months to fix very minor things (a very good tune up, full comprehensive service, new drum rear brakes, new steering wheel, rally pac)... So now I have a pretty straight car, very good to drive around on a daily basis.
My choice to wait a little bit more, and save more money to put into it, was the best thing I did (regarding the car obviously).

hope this help

[BAC]

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Ford-Mustang-1969/SSE-AD-5009783/?_ga=2.28423807.233762229.1508390042-1332947767.1503644747&_gac=1.220527978.1512917383.Cj0KCQjwtpDMBRC4ARIsADhz5O5uBx5uRFqTVEcDGQAtG5gwm-UZw2zNmGYYmjW43p5KlacEBnutiqoaAlMJEALw_wcB

Wouldn't touch any Mustang that had a sunroof hacked into it...

[StephenSLR]

So I decided to set up a different budget and wait more time so I was able to save more money.

I did exactly that, I was thinking of spending $25k but after doing the sums and waiting 2 years I finally pulled the trigger and it cost me around $40k landed. I've easily spent around $10k on it since.

Worth it!

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[fredm666]

I did exactly that, I was thinking of spending $25k but after doing the sums and waiting 2 years I finally pulled the trigger and it cost me around $40k landed. I've easily spent around $10k on it since.

Worth it!

s

I can imagine was worth it.

the extra $5k I spent was because I decided to and I had the possibility to do that, car was good as it was when bought. For it I spent a little bit more than $30k, but in previous months I saw cars for sale at around $19/22k and needed big works on them... So I was going to spend at least an extra $12/15k (which I didn't have) to have it drivable, plus other $$$ for minor touches.

As said I'm not an expert, but IMHO someone has to spend an extra $10k on top of the $18900 for that '69 immediately after the purchase.

[BAC]

IMHO someone has to spend an extra $10k on top of the $18900 for that '69 immediately after the purchase.

More like $20K when you figure in paint and bodywork.

[jonrules12]

Who said anything about a project? As long as it's mechanically A1 with no rust; drive it as it is.

That is basically my thoughts right now. Like it doesn't look like much but he reckons it drives like new and there is 0 rust so why not just funnel money in over time making it look pretty?

[jonrules12]

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/Ford-Mustang-1969/SSE-AD-5009783/?_ga=2.28423807.233762229.1508390042-1332947767.1503644747&_gac=1.220527978.1512917383.Cj0KCQjwtpDMBRC4ARIsADhz5O5uBx5uRFqTVEcDGQAtG5gwm-UZw2zNmGYYmjW43p5KlacEBnutiqoaAlMJEALw_wcB

Wouldn't touch any Mustang that had a sunroof hacked into it...

Fair point

[jonrules12]

Thanks for the replies, I will give it some thought! 

[fredm666]

Thanks for the replies, I will give it some thought! 

just to give you an idea, from a personal experience.

beginning of this year I found on carsales a '65 red mustang coupe with vinyl top. From pictures and description looked amazing and price was $25000, so I decided to go down and inspect in person the car and I found:
- some rust bubbles size 10/20 cent piece on LH door.
- some rust bubbles same size on RH door.
- 2 rust bubbles 4x5cm under an average conditions vinyl top.
- extra amber indicators bolted on the rear panel close to red taillights.
- engine and engine bay were pretty good.
- interiors needed some work.

I asked around quotes for repairing those rust spots, and the cheapest quote I had was around $10,000... For sure I did not buy the car.

This to say that you need to do some maths and speak with a lot of persons (mechanics, panel beaters, etc.) so you can have the full picture of what you are going to spend.

I would suggest, for a good first generation mustang coupe consider a purchasing budget of $26/32k, plus $3k of extras.
You could be lucky and maybe you will find someone rushing to sell and price tag is less than that.
For sure if you want a convertible or fastback you have to add extra $$$...

More experienced persons on this forum can give you better and more precise information.

[StephenSLR]

it doesn't look like much but he reckons it drives like new and there is 0 rust

Make sure you have someone inspect it before you lay any money down. You may even find someone from this forum local to the car willing to do it if you ask nicely, I advise starting a new thread to alert anyone interested in doing that for you; be sure to throw in a slab or two for their efforts.

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[mcarnage59]

Like it doesn't look like much but he reckons it drives like new

He has gotta be taking the p15s

[StephenSLR]

he reckons there is 0 rust

Pics 1 & 2 above the passenger (right hand) side drip rails. Is that spots of rust I can see?

If he's lying about the rust he's lying about everything else.

Has he ever driven a new 69 Mustang to know what they drive like? If not, he's full of shit.

Also it looks rather worn for a car with 10km on the odometer.

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[fredm666]

in the ad he says "The body is very clean with all original panels and very little rust."

[BAC]

in the ad he says "The body is very clean with all original panels and very little rust."

OK, let's pick it apart (Barnett, where are you?):

- As StephenSLR noted, there are two biggish rust spots and a long line of rust on the RHS roof at the drip rail
- Also what looks very much like a rust spot on the front bottom of the passenger door
- The previously mentioned '80s style cheapie pop up sunroof really hurts the originality
- Stainless trim moldings missing from the front edge of the bonnet and inner headlight buckets
- Rear bumper sagging at both ends and also twisted at the LH end
- Looks like a rust spot on the RHS bottom edge of the rear window surround
- 'T' is missing from the MUSTANG lettering on the boot
- Rear valance doesn't fit properly on the RHS
- Front bumper wraps around at a weird angle at the RHS end
- Large gap at rear edge of bonnet
- Surface rust on bonnet
- No windscreen washer bottle or associated piping in engine bay
- No radiator shroud
- Power steering but only manual brakes (so most likely drums all round)
- Surface rust on some engine bay components
- Splits/tears in driver's seat
- Brake pedal pad is toast
- Dash pad is split
- Hate those wheels!

None of these is a deal breaker as long as the rest of the car is clean and straight and you go into it with your eyes wide open and figure out how much money you will have to pour into it in the long run to finish it how you want. 

The sunroof and crappy paint would be a deal breaker for me because that's at least $15K right there unless of course you're happy with the way it looks now... 

[jonrules12]

OK, let's pick it apart (Barnett, where are you?):

- As StephenSLR noted, there are two biggish rust spots and a long line of rust on the RHS roof at the drip rail
- Also what looks very much like a rust spot on the front bottom of the passenger door
- The previously mentioned '80s style cheapie pop up sunroof really hurts the originality
- Stainless trim moldings missing from the front edge of the bonnet and inner headlight buckets
- Rear bumper sagging at both ends and also twisted at the LH end
- Looks like a rust spot on the RHS bottom edge of the rear window surround
- 'T' is missing from the MUSTANG lettering on the boot
- Rear valance doesn't fit properly on the RHS
- Front bumper wraps around at a weird angle at the RHS end
- Large gap at rear edge of bonnet
- Surface rust on bonnet
- No windscreen washer bottle or associated piping in engine bay
- No radiator shroud
- Power steering but only manual brakes (so most likely drums all round)
- Surface rust on some engine bay components
- Splits/tears in driver's seat
- Brake pedal pad is toast
- Dash pad is split
- Hate those wheels!

None of these is a deal breaker as long as the rest of the car is clean and straight and you go into it with your eyes wide open and figure out how much money you will have to pour into it in the long run to finish it how you want. 

The sunroof and crappy paint would be a deal breaker for me because that's at least $15K right there unless of course you're happy with the way it looks now... 

Thanks for the effort! Like you said, none of those are deal breakers but I will obviously be inspecting the car with these things in mind.
In regards to what everyone else said. I can only tell you what I was told, because that's all I know haha. I definitely did not think spot rust was that expensive, same with painting.

[BAC]

I definitely did not think spot rust was that expensive, same with painting.

Rust tends to be like icebergs - what you can see will only be 10% of what's lurking under the surface.  That's why body shops quote high for that kind of work to cover their rear ends. 

I am reliably informed that you'll struggle to get any change out of $15K for a halfway decent paint job and that's starting with a clean, straight body that doesn't need rust repair.  My best guess is you'd have at least $40K sunk into that particular car by the time you got it painted and that's without any work on mechanicals or the interior.

As others have said, it's usually best to wait until you can increase your budget to include better cars that will cost you less in the long run.  Of course that shouldn't stop you from looking for that needle in a haystack, just be very careful before you hand over any cash...

[jonrules12]

Rust tends to be like icebergs - what you can see will only be 10% of what's lurking under the surface.  That's why body shops quote high for that kind of work to cover their rear ends. 

I am reliably informed that you'll struggle to get any change out of $15K for a halfway decent paint job and that's starting with a clean, straight body that doesn't need rust repair.  My best guess is you'd have at least $40K sunk into that particular car by the time you got it painted and that's without any work on mechanicals or the interior.

As others have said, it's usually best to wait until you can increase your budget to include better cars that will cost you less in the long run.  Of course that shouldn't stop you from looking for that needle in a haystack, just be very careful before you hand over any cash...

Well the explains the insane prices I guess...
Naturally I would ask for opinions and get it checked either by someone else or myself before buying. (: Thanks!

[67FBGT]

As another has pointed out above, the '69/70 coupes are one of the least popular of the early Mustangs. Even if you got it for $10K you'd easily spend another $40K+++ to make it nice - I'm not talking concours, just 'nice' - even doing some of the work yourself, and by then you would have over-capitalized and if you decided to sell for any reason you might have a hard time moving it. Given the state of that car and the fact that you don't know your Mustangs let alone how to fix them I strongly recommend you give it a wide berth. Just the fact that numerous defects are apparent in the photos should be enough to warn you off. Bide your time, keep saving and go for one of the early coupes that are the most popular.
PS. you do NOT want to be dealing with a rusty roof, let alone an '80's era sunroof; I think that car will need a new roof grafted on at some point, and that's a major!

[SXTY8]

I think I agree with most of the previous comments, but buying an old car is a very personal thing.
I started out just wanting a Mustang, but after looking for a while I decided to pay more money for something that had already been restored.
Also in my case I wanted to buy something that I could enjoy but would be worth more money when I decided to sell it. I think you have to buy wisely if you want to make money on your car.

[StephenSLR]

I think you have to buy wisely if you want to make money on your car.

The happiest car owners are the ones who buy the cars they like, not the cars they expect to make money on. 

It's a car ffs, although I do totally understand the appeal of making money on a car, it's not my motivation for owning one. I expect their value to die in the arse when electric cars take over so those that want to make money should sell before that happens.

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[BAC]

The happiest car owners are the ones who buy the cars they like, not the cars they expect to make money on. 

It's a car ffs, although I do totally understand the appeal of making money on a car, it's not my motivation for owning one. I expect their value to die in the arse when electric cars take over so those that want to make money should sell before that happens.

I have a slightly different spin on the situation:  I have an agreement with my better half that I'm allowed to keep feeding my classic car habit as long as I don't lose money when I turn them over.  Happy to report that so far I am in compliance with my contract...   

[Bucks]