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Mustang Australia

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71
Tech Torque Pre 1973 / Re: 1966 2-Speed wiper motor question
« Last post by jiffy on March 04, 2024, 04:12:11 pm »
ok - this might help a little. Here's a write-up on how to fix the park feature.
https://forum.mustang.org.au/index.php/topic,36877.msg340777.html#msg340777
It's not exactly the issue you're having, but it might help you to understand and visualise the internals of the wiper motor.
You should be able to disconnect the wiper mechanism and ensure that the wiper motor is turning full circle (the park feature working implies that it does), you'll see the two brushes that rest on the armature at 180 and 135 degrees that allow the two speeds to operate at two speeds.
You sure have an interesting issue to fix - I would try to establish whether the motor is turning a full 360 degrees (which would make it a mechanical problem) or it it turns and then reverses (an electrical problem)( - then try disconnecting the wiper mechanism and see what it does, then try a known good wiper motor without the mechanism connected just plugged into the harness.

Try a process of swapping until you find the root cause...

Good luck
72
Tech Torque Pre 1973 / Wiper motor park feature - fix
« Last post by jiffy on March 04, 2024, 04:05:33 pm »
ok - so, after putting in my wipers I have a bug to fix - the wiper park feature doesn't allow them to return - so I'll address how I fixed that.

When turning off the wipers in any position, the wipers should return back to the "off" position no matter where they were when turned off. And they don't.

I got the wiper motor off the bracket (this had been recently "rebuilt" so it was disappointing that it wasn't all tested, but there you go…

Undo the two long bolts on the top of the black housing that houses the magnets and remove the housing - the armature will come with it and the brushes will pop out and flap around on the brush plate - not a bad idea to remove the springs behind the bushes and put those aside - this looks a bit daunting but it's not a problem really.

Remove the 2 screws that hold on the tin cover and you can see the worm drive on the end of the armature, it drives the white plastic/nylon gear which has a small reduction gear on the back, which turns the large gear on the output shaft. Grab some pliers, pull out the metal spring-clip that loads the end of the armature, remove the circlip (not shown) from the top of the nylon gear. It will likely have a couple of shims between the clip and the gear - keep these.

Pull out the white gear and you can see at the bottom of the shaft the end of the cam follower and the cam/driveshaft thrust plate (probably not the correct name).
 
Ensure the nut and lever is removed from the bottom of the driveshaft - push up from the thread and once the drive shaft is out, remove the cam and thrust plate.

You can see the cam on the back of the drive shaft - this is spun by the reduction gear from the back of the white nylon gear, which is spun by the armature when voltage is applied via the brush plate.

The voltage is applied to the low or high speed wires & brushes until turned off when voltage is then applied to the red wire which SHOULD make the motor return to the park position.

Undo the 3 brass screws and remove the brush plate. When at the park position, the cam pushes the follower up which pushes up on a long black plastic rod into the underside of the brush plate.

Remove the black plastic rod

This is the PARK switch (I've never seen this in any picture so hopefully this is useful for you) and it operates in two positions: When the dash switch is turned off, the wipers are likely to be in mid-sweep and the motor is spinning. When the dash switch is turned off, 12V is applied to the red wire which allows the motor to keep turning until the cam lifts the black pole, which lifts the "tongue" and breaks the contact. The contact that allows the motor to keep turning is UNDER the "tongue" which when raised by the black rod moves the tongue from the red wire 12V to ground via the contact on the top (the underneath contact is where the red tube is pointing) the ground contact is the one most visible in this pic: When the motor is spinning and no voltage is applied, it becomes a generator, so grounding this wire forces the armature to STOP in the right position - if your wipers keep going when the dash switch is off, it's probably because these ground contacts aren't being made (and they need cleaning as per the instruction below) so the armature is just spinning past the cam location (and re-applies 12v to the armature and off it goes again....)

When the Park function works, the 12v contact sparks each time the contact is broken and eventually oxide builds up on the park switch contacts under the tongue and eventually stops it making a reliable connection. Fold some fine wet/dry sandpaper and force it between the contacts underneath and sand the contacts back and forth to clean them to restore operation to your Park function.

So - reassembly: Re-install the black post, put in the driveshaft thrust plate and the cam follower. Put in the driveshaft (this will likely push out the O-ring at the outer end of the housing, so watch for that - spinning the shaft often as it goes in often allows the O-ring to stay in place - but it can be pushed back in with a screwdriver once the driveshaft is in place. Put the washer under the lever at the end of the drive shaft covering the O-ring and then install the lever and tighten the nut - getting this all back into the bracket can be a pain but it will fit if you remove the nut again when fitting it up. Alignment here is important - when the cam operates the park switch, the lever should roughly line up with the armature/magnet housing, not be pointing out the top. Replace the metal clip for the top of the armature and install the white nylon reduction gear.

Install the brush plate and the three screws, make sure you put the ground brush wire back in under the screw. Then get a fine screwdriver and force up the tabs at the outer ends of the brass holders that house the brushes. Support the holders as you do this, they aren't the strongest items in the world...

Once all three tabs are folded up, put the brushes back in and make a little room in the middle for the armature's commutator - don't put the spring back in first, leave them out.

Make sure the brushes are pointed the right way to meet flat against the commutator and then put the armature back into the gearbox body:

Put the springs back into the brush holders from the outside and then fold down the outer tabs to hold them in place - don't let the armature fall out or you'll have to put it back making sure the brushes are all lined up then do the folding bit again - they'll only survive limited folds so be careful.

Slip on the outer magnet housing again - the magnets will pull on the armature as it goes on so jam a screwdriver into the worm gear so it can't come out (or you'll be back to do the brushes part again) - it can be a little tricky to get the top end of the armature to go into the bush in the housing, so wiggle it around and you'll be fine. Put in the two long bolts (mine would only go back one way - they didn't appear to be the same, but yours may differ) and once that's all buttoned up then install the gearbox cover with the two screws, not forgetting the ground wire goes on one of them.
Pack it with grease and you should now be good to go - rest it on the export brace and wire it up and test it.
It will make a racket vibrating on the export brace, but ignore that. If it's all good, then re-install it hook it up and connect the wipers. Don't push the rubber grommet back through the firewall until this final test - run the wipers, make sure they start and stop and park as expected. If the gearbox operation is too noisy or vibrates, then there is likely to be too much play between the lever (on the end of the driveshaft) and the gearbox housing - shim that up a little with thicker/more washers or a spring washer (mine was missing) and minimise any play, and it should quieten right down.

Hey presto - all fixed.
73
Members Cars / The New 66 Coupe
« Last post by ChilliChadd on March 03, 2024, 09:00:32 pm »
It's been a while since I've been on here. Too busy working and just getting through. After making the biggest poo poo in life and selling COUPDUP 10 yrs ago I went back on the search late 2018.
after nearly getting back the old girl only to have the guy pull out the morning I was heading down to bring her home. I ended up landing KOUPDUP. another 66 only auto this time in March 2019, not exactly what I was after but had good bones and was reasonably priced. She'd been restored but was a bit on the old man side for my liking so on went wheels, new suspension, brake up grade, new interior, and Dakota digital dash, altered the exhaust, and new sound system. now after a few years I'm getting itchy again so it's time to make some changes.
Interior out again and Dynamat the whole car. another stereo upgrade, add air-con, rebuild the motor, and give her a bit more killawasps. redo the exhaust again, and possibly change the wheels again.
74
Cars For Sale By Private Sellers / Mustang 2016 Convertible for sale $37,500
« Last post by Tony33 on March 02, 2024, 02:25:32 pm »
Hi Folks,
Regrettably having to sell my 2016 Mustang Convertible due to rising cost of house renos - excellent condition and has been exceptionally well looked after with all receipts from new, full main dealer service history, log books, all keys and manuals. Major service and new front brakes (pads and rotors) completed 20/2/24. No issues at all.
Two mature Mustang enthusiast owners, never raced or thrashed, most of the kms are from long drives down south etc. Very roomy and comfortable cruiser. Economical but powerful eco boost engine, drives like new and everything on the car works as it should.
Has Apple CarPlay / Android as well as all usual Mustang features eg electric roof, heated / cooled seats, climate control,  great sound system, SatNav, voice recognition, reverse camera / parking assist, cruise etc. Only mods are a breathing upgrade (stainless steel exhaust with V8 back end and resonator delete / K&N filter - nice burble not too loud) as well as a set of 20" Avanti Americana wheels.
Advertised on Marketplace / Gumtree. Would be happier selling to a fellow Mustang enthusiast rather than a dealer. Reply here or give me a text / call (can't always answer due to job) if you have any further questions / happy drive to you for inspection if needed.
Cheers, Tony 0433-011841
75
Tech Torque Pre 1973 / Re: 1966 2-Speed wiper motor question
« Last post by GtgBevitt on March 02, 2024, 07:45:57 am »
You’re correct, and when I turn off the wipers, they return to their position low on the windscreen.

Thanks for your input, I’m thinking something similar about the wiring, and will go down that path
76
Tech Torque Pre 1973 / Re: Electric Brake Booster
« Last post by AussiePhil on March 01, 2024, 11:04:00 pm »
https://cruisinautomotive.com/electric-brake-systems-australia/

You'd want to make sure your alternator can keep up.

Hey Geoff,
That’s very interesting, I run a Hella U28 vacuum pump, but have had trouble with vacuum switches.

Cheers Phil.
77
Tech Torque Pre 1973 / Re: Electric Brake Booster
« Last post by GEOFF289 on March 01, 2024, 07:25:09 pm »
https://cruisinautomotive.com/electric-brake-systems-australia/

You'd want to make sure your alternator can keep up.
78
Tech Torque Pre 1973 / Electric Brake Booster
« Last post by Leeroy0872 on March 01, 2024, 07:20:05 pm »
Anyone know where I can source an electric brake booster and master cylinder system from? Front discs and rear drum. Looking to upgrade my brakes. What's everyone else running? I've heard the normal brake boosters don't have a very good pedal feel.
79
Tech Torque Pre 1973 / Re: Distributor for a 302W stroked 347
« Last post by trentsiddharta on March 01, 2024, 03:36:25 pm »
Hi Jiffy,

Thanks for this.

I've garaged the car and it's not being driven until the gear is changed. My ignorance and my mechanic to blame there.

The timing has been measured and is advanced. Your point re the carb is great as I assume this will affect temp, starting, and stalling. No choke on the carb compounds the issues again.

As a lower dollar solve, from replacing the manifold and carb with 4-barrel, I assume replacing the jets and adding an auto choke is fairly straightforward?

Thanks again for your and everyone's input, mate.
80
Tech Torque Pre 1973 / Re: Distributor for a 302W stroked 347
« Last post by jiffy on March 01, 2024, 02:57:37 pm »
I think you're about to get some big bills.
So - if the dist gear is wrong for the cam, there's NO WAY it should have been assembled. DO NOT RUN IT until you have the right dist gear installed.
Pick your battles...
Measure the timing - just because it detonates, it doesn't mean it's too far advanced - running too rich or too lean may also cause it to ping. You need to MEASURE the timing and make changes because you can see a problem, not because you're throwing money at the dart board trying to replace everything until it stops overheating.

Was the carb re-jetted to suit the large capacity? If it's still jetted to suit a 5.0Ltr but it's now a 5.4L then it'll be too lean.

You need to get it tuned by someone who has all the right tools. I would get rid of the 2-barrell carb and manifold for a 4-barrell, your wife won't want to drive it when it's running like a POS any more than she will if it goes hard. Get it running well before worrying about your wife's level of enjoyment....
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