Shelby drop.

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Author Topic: Shelby drop.  (Read 13460 times)

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #25 on: September 10, 2021, 08:43:46 am »
Hey Ray,
I got the design off the net, but because I have four links on the back I needed to alter them.
I needed to lengthen them to bolt into what was the spring eye linkage.
The angles are absolutely prefect, it follows the floor brilliantly.
Start at the front and work backwards!
I’ll attach photos as poor as they are, no finished photo, but the plans are brilliant.
Cheers Phil.
« Last Edit: September 10, 2021, 05:30:54 pm by AussiePhil »
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #26 on: September 10, 2021, 09:07:13 am »
Subframe connectors plan. I didn't use the same tabs on the ends, I made one larger plate using existing suspension bolts.
Thanks to Dazecars for the design!  I used 50mm x 5 mm SHS from the scrap dealer in town, it was a steal at $10.00. It was some type of jig used for machinery packaging.
« Last Edit: September 10, 2021, 05:45:57 pm by AussiePhil »
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #27 on: September 10, 2021, 09:12:07 am »
Part manufacture of subframe connectors.
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #28 on: September 10, 2021, 09:16:56 am »
How to attach to the front subframe,  weld ends and drill and plug weld to subframe.
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #29 on: September 10, 2021, 01:42:07 pm »
Subframe welded to chassis rail. Primed with miracle paint!
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #30 on: September 14, 2021, 06:57:12 pm »
Hi All,
Because the drop lowers road height I’m making aluminium coil spring spacers to set the road height correct!
The insertion rubber that was glued to the perch was removed, it’s a waste of time, and road height would sagged over time!

Cheers Phil.
« Last Edit: January 14, 2022, 06:39:34 am by AussiePhil »
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline griff

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #31 on: September 14, 2021, 08:04:37 pm »
hey mate. why wouldn’t you just do it properly and put longer springs in to correct the length? $180 for some
kings and it’s done and safe instead of using spacers.
when a 3 month engine rebuild turns into 3 year bare metal resto.
you get that .....

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #32 on: September 14, 2021, 08:42:50 pm »
Hey griff,
I don’t need the extra travel you’d get from longer springs!
The car and bike are sore points at the moment. Total cost of Subframe connectors $10 for steel from scrap dealer plus $90 for welder to mig weld one end, tail shaft loop $2 for mower handle at recycling centre, $30 steel for shock tower gussets, bugger all for Shelby drop and negative camber wedges, $20 for spring adapters. Plus $100 for paints and rods.
Apart from that I find it very therapeutic tinkering in my workshop and on my car!
Cheers Phil.

« Last Edit: September 15, 2021, 12:12:35 am by AussiePhil »
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline griff

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #33 on: September 14, 2021, 09:01:19 pm »
phil i get it that you love to tinker but that top mount will eventually shit itself under constant stress and you’ll change lanes very nicely into the path of someone else’s pride and joy. that’s what my attention was drawn to mate.
i’m only trying to help buddy where i see something that an engineer would put a big X against and god forbid an assessor puts an X on it if something did happen and thatll cost you big.
a set of kings KFFL59 and you’re done. plenty of us here would advise same. we’ve all seen the photos of “i did it myself” and their aftermath.
 do it properly old son.
when a 3 month engine rebuild turns into 3 year bare metal resto.
you get that .....

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #34 on: September 14, 2021, 09:51:13 pm »
Hey griff,
Thanks for your advise but I’m sure it’ll be ok.
Cheers Phil.
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline scedd1

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #35 on: September 15, 2021, 06:02:49 am »
I think you may find that suspension spacers live in the same world as wheel spacers in OZ. Illegal and therefore void your insurance if the worst ever happens.
.  ____________
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 ( ]]] _ _ O _ _ [[[ )
\_ o _ _____ _ o _/
 |___|            |___|

Offline Megzee67

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #36 on: September 15, 2021, 05:35:57 pm »
Hi Phil,
I used the "Daze" pattern also mate.....[ I had a bit of time and $$$, so I bought new Gal steel with 4mm wall thickness}
As opposed to the plug weld and connection weld procedure, I installed some full length flat steel plate to give the connection point some rigidity. The plug weld from thin material to thicker walled box section connection didn't adequate so i drilled through the rail, packers and connector and installed Hi tensile bolts with large area washers.....
Hope the photo's come through ok.

Anyway mate, our results will have the desired purpose and effect.



<img src="https://i.ibb.co/RHg8Z7B/mbmarch20161.jpg" alt="mbmarch20161" border="0">
<img src="https://i.ibb.co/QYTkLSw/mbmarch20162.jpg" alt="mbmarch20162" border="0">
<img src="https://i.ibb.co/DWnCzFG/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg" alt="OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA" border="0">

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Offline Megzee67

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #37 on: September 15, 2021, 05:44:32 pm »
In one picture it appears the connectors have not be end capped, but this is not the case...Both rails were end capped front and rear, so as to create a sealed box section......
Material used 50mm x 50mm x 4mm Galvanized steel tube....



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Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #38 on: September 15, 2021, 06:56:35 pm »
Hey Michael,
Yes, your job turned out very neat!
I got a great deal at the scrap yard, they were some kind of jig for machinery transport, They had a heap, I should have bought the lot.
It’s new 50 x 50 x 5mm and 75mm angle, painted with an anti-rust, more than enough to do the job for $10.
I built up the ends to fit neatly into the channel, width and height, I left that welding to a professional, he was happy using the plug welds and turned up the amps for good penetration. He’s a welder I’ve used before, he’s done heaps of jobs for me but has never seen the car, he couldn’t believe what I’ve done to the car.
I’ve since bought a mig welder but my mig is a bit messy, although I ran a beautiful mig weld the other day, the mma runs beautiful welds, very consistent arc, my old welder I bought when I was 18, not yesterday!
I said to my wife last night I’ve finished on the car, she said I bet your not.
This morning I dropped it to the ground and took it for a run, it’s to high in the air, she was right.
I had to lift it 20mm so I made 20mm spring adapters, but forgot about the Upper control arm overhang! Hahaha.
It ended up I lifted it 2 1/4” hahaha. What a dope!
I’ve machined them down to 13mm to start with, will drop on the ground tomorrow and adjust them until the height and ride is perfect.
Hope you’re doing well.
Cheers Phil.

If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline Megzee67

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #39 on: September 15, 2021, 07:29:03 pm »
Haha....you are a classic Phil..total respect too you for planning and getting on with your upgrades especially nutting out problems....love the look and stance of your beast and i bet once you get it fine tuned with your latest upgrades it will handle very nicely..
i weld like a carpenter so i dont...
Always great to see classic car owners posting their own project work and the Daze sight shares some great info.
PS. My wife doesnt ask me about my car and i dont tell....or volunteer info.....secret mens business...
All ok here
Regards
Mike


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Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #40 on: September 15, 2021, 08:06:44 pm »
Hey Mike,
I speak to my wife about my car and her favourite saying is “ are my eyes glazing over “
Yes, Dazecars are great! Share with you, but don’t push there products, but if you want them here they are.
The contour of the subframe connectors are perfect! I needed to extend mine at the back to tie them into my four links.
Bathurst this year if it goes ahead will be in late November into December, not sure if you’ll get up the mountain, I’ve been going for a long time, I either get wet or burnt to a crisp, Weather will hot as hell! No shade, every year I say I’m not going again, but I do, isn’t that a sign of madness!
Cheers Phil.
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline Megzee67

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #41 on: September 16, 2021, 12:59:23 pm »
Gents,
slightly off subject to the Shelby drop, but related to front end performance enhancements, I fabricated these roller spring perches.
Photo of the originals attached which are basically a shaft with a vulcanized solid rubber bushing.
Picture of my fabricated roller version following the design from DazeCars...
Not really a shed job unless you have a lathe, as the tube needs to be machined to take the bearing outer race, plus the circlip retaining rebate....Bearings are standard over the counter, which fit the shaft with a small amount of pressing...



<img src="https://i.ibb.co/QQByySX/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg" alt="OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA" border="0">
<img src="https://i.ibb.co/D8m26xc/spring-perch.jpg" alt="spring-perch" border="0">
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Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #42 on: September 16, 2021, 01:14:54 pm »
Gents,
slightly off subject to the Shelby drop, but related to front end performance enhancements, I fabricated these roller spring perches.
Photo of the originals attached which are basically a shaft with a vulcanized solid rubber bushing.
Picture of my fabricated roller version following the design from DazeCars...
Not really a shed job unless you have a lathe, as the tube needs to be machined to take the bearing outer race, plus the circlip retaining rebate....Bearings are standard over the counter, which fit the shaft with a small amount of pressing...

Very nice work Mike,
I bet you got great satisfaction making your own perches and they look rock solid!
Cheers Phil.



<img src="https://i.ibb.co/QQByySX/OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA.jpg" alt="OLYMPUS-DIGITAL-CAMERA" border="0">
<img src="https://i.ibb.co/D8m26xc/spring-perch.jpg" alt="spring-perch" border="0">
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #43 on: September 16, 2021, 07:51:22 pm »
Hey all,
Shelby drop completed and I’m very happy with it.
I was going about it the wrong way, I had the spacers between the body and the insulator but could not get the 10mm thickness without making the matching tapers to thin, so I’ve put the insulator back in it’s original place against the body, then the 10mm spacer between the insulator and the closed and ground end coil. One other benefit is using a spacer on closed and ground end coils it has a bigger footprint and the coil does not dig into the insulator!
FYI.
So if you are doing the Shelby drop and you’re happy with the ride height you need to add 10mm spacers to get it back to same + or - a little.
But if your doing the Shelby drop to lower the car you’ll lower it about 20mm.
If you don’t want to use your coil springs with coil spring spacers you’ll have to buy new coil springs and cut then down bit by bit until your happy with the height!
FYI.
My springs are Lovell front springs FFL-17SL, Length 12”, OD 5”, Wire diameter 0.700” and give a great sports ride coupled with KONI ADJUSTABLE Big Bore Front Shock Absorbers to suit all 65 66 67 68 69 70 Mustang Models. Part no 82-1388SP3 Suit Lowered or Std Suspension, roller perches!

Unfortunately I finished the job and didn’t take any photos!

After I completed the job I took it for a test run, drove great, no bumps or scrapes!

Cheers Phil.

« Last Edit: September 16, 2021, 08:16:46 pm by AussiePhil »
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline Megzee67

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #44 on: September 16, 2021, 09:00:18 pm »
Great work Phil
Great advice for blokes who do their own upgrades and projects also....
Plus our classics are not that complicated and the satisfaction of doing it ourselves heavily outweighs sending it out to a big $$$$$$$ shop..
Nothing better than getting your hands dirty.....and you can always tell your wife you were fixing the mower.......again..
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Offline Chris66pny

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #45 on: September 16, 2021, 09:37:23 pm »
Love the work Phil, car is looking great!! Shelby drop is on my list of things to do also.

In terms of chassis connectors, I'm curious to see what what people think the 'ideal' set of chassis connectors would be? I've just started up my fabrication/machining business again (after 10 years off) and have been wanting to do a suite of Mustang parts (along with a range of other parts). I've started building chassis connectors for my car and once I'm happy I'll build a jig and do a small production run.

Currently I'm messing around with the rear frame connection points. Im thinking of a couple options, one for stock leaf location and one for leaf relocation inboard of the frame rail. Also maybe an integrated mount for tramp bars? With the connectors I've used 65x35x4, I've done the stress modelling in CAD and it seems stiffer than most other connectors on the market.

Sorry for hijacking the post, just interested in your thoughts. I'll start another thread soon.

Offline Megzee67

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #46 on: September 16, 2021, 09:57:15 pm »
Actually Chris66pny
Highjacking is completely welcome mate...
I for one cannot wait for your new thread and input...
Love the ideas.
Plus the box section size you have chosen for your sub frame connectors is rock solid...
CAD modelling is a smart art..... :event: :event:
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Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #47 on: September 17, 2021, 07:31:46 am »
Hey Chris,
Great news and you’re not crashing my post only adding to it! Conversation, assistance, advice and answers.
This can only help, maybe you’ll get some interest from those interested in custom subframe connectors.
My photos don’t do the subframe connectors justice as they are beautiful the way I’ve linked them in to the four link suspension. Actually the rectangle box would fit better into the front chassis rails!
Now there’s a product restomoders may be interested in, if you fitting subframe connectors go all the way, add some kind of link suspension, but buyers need somewhat mechanical ability to fit! And there is a UK coil-over manufacturer with an Australian office in western Sydney. I happen to have switched over to.
I’ve got to raise the car again today for another job and I’ll take better photos around this area.
I’ll say it again the Dazecars design connectors really follow the floor pan and angle out to the rear chassis rail beautifully.
Cheers Mate, Phil.
« Last Edit: September 17, 2021, 07:33:27 am by AussiePhil »
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline Chris66pny

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #48 on: September 17, 2021, 12:42:34 pm »
Thanks guys, appreciate it. Would be great to see how you've tied in the 4 link phil.

Ill take some more photos of what i have so far, reason I went for 65X35 section was to keep a lower profile and not impact car to road clearance, ive tucked it as tight as i can to the floor also. Ill check out the dimensions to the daze ones, i reckon they will be close! I want to eventually run the car with wider tyres (mini tub) and lower so future proofing the connectors now is important. Ive also opted for a 'slip over' frame rail connector for the front instead of a 'slot in', I think its an easier install and if the connectors are to ever be removed it might be a bit easier (although i think realistically once they are on their on for good!).

Interestingly when modelling the 65x35x4 section it was just as stiff as a 50x50x3 section that most connectors use.

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Shelby drop.
« Reply #49 on: September 18, 2021, 01:05:42 pm »
Hey 67,
You shouldn’t need to remove the carpet, you’re only welding the chassis rails, just make sure you keep a good eye on the interior and spray down with water in a spray bottle, the danger is if you get a fire inside the channel, then you’d need co2 extinguisher.
The front end of the channel is this only part that’s needs welding, you should be able to link the back in to existing suspension bolts and extend the leaf spring loop bolt to screw into the subframe connector.
Email me full full size photos.
Cheers phildrury59@gmail.com
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!