Chassis Connectors

Mustang Australia

Author Topic: Chassis Connectors  (Read 2073 times)

Offline Chris66pny

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  • Name: Chris
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Chassis Connectors
« on: September 21, 2021, 09:08:51 pm »
Hi All,

I'm curious to see what what people think the 'ideal' set of chassis connectors would be? I've just started up my fabrication/machining business again (after 10 years off) and have been wanting to do a suite of Mustang parts (along with a range of other parts). I've started designing and building chassis connectors for my car and once I'm happy I'll build a jig and do a small production run.

Currently I'm messing around with the rear frame connection points. Im thinking of a couple options, one for stock leaf location and one for leaf relocation inboard of the frame rail (see below link). Also maybe an integrated mount for traction bars? With the connectors I've used 65x35x4, I've done the stress modelling in CAD and it seems stiffer than most other connectors on the market.

Anyone that has purchased and installed connectors before I'm wondering if there were any pain points/short comings?

Below is a link to my CAD model, its not 100% finished yet and still doesn't show a fair amount of detail (like end caps, welds, etc). Any comments are much appreciated.

https://a360.co/39vayBf



Offline Megzee67

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  • Name: Michael
  • Car: 1967 Mustang Coupe
Re: Chassis Connectors
« Reply #1 on: September 23, 2021, 01:30:28 pm »
Hi Chris,
Very nice work with the Auto CAD design format and they look very neat and seemingly low profile. [ the CAD file would only open on my iPad, but it was impressive to rotate and get a detailed perspective from all angles.

Is it possible to place the vehicle sub frame connection areas on the CAD image to create an "overlay" of how your design fits in the final position? This would help your customers with getting a visualization of how they sit in place.
Your front sub frame connection concept looks great as cutting the existing sub frame end plate and inserting the connectors inside the box section creates a few extra dramas...
When I fabricated and installed mine, the car was a non rolling bare shell, so I had clear space for dry fitting a couple of times and final fitment and welding.......To install on a rolling and running vehicle might introduce a few space/access issues for your final recommended welding procedure....
Anyway Chris, again, nice innovative improved concept mate.....

As a side note, I installed a passenger [RH] side Torgue box, as the 67 C Code only came of the Drivers side box.....I did this to try and create extra transverse rigidity. If your breaking out the trusty welder, this is a pretty low key straight forward job as well.
Cheers
Mike
Most people don't listen with the intent to understand
They listen with the intent to reply.

Offline Chris66pny

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Re: Chassis Connectors
« Reply #2 on: September 23, 2021, 09:35:47 pm »
Thanks Mike, appreciate the response. Weird you could only open on your iPad!!

Agreed there are some obstacles when fitting to an assembled car, I'm going through it now! The hardest part when installing the connectors with the leaf spring relocation (ones in the CAD model) is dropping the diff so the leaf spring bolts can be removed. On the connectors without this it's very straight forward as the rear connection point is shorter and doesn't interfere with the leaf bolt. What do you think about some integrated mounting tabs down the connector length, makes routing fuel and power cables a bit easier?

I've also added in some rough (very rough) chassis rails in the CAD model, I've only done it on one so it's easy to see.

Do you think the torque box mod worked well? I've been wondering if i do it on mine.

On a side note I'm also working on an export brace, Monte Carlo bar and Panhard bar, hope these will be done by end of year. Export brace will be the next item done, nice billet firewall mount and nicer strut tops.

Offline Megzee67

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  • Name: Michael
  • Car: 1967 Mustang Coupe
Re: Chassis Connectors
« Reply #3 on: September 24, 2021, 02:56:27 pm »
Hey Chris, no worries at all....I enjoy these technical posts, especially where innovation and upgrade concepts are fine tuned..
All in all, I reckon you are on a winner for Aussie Mustang owners who want performance [ structural ] upgrades.
If I hadn't ventured into mine many years ago, I would certainly get a set of your concept design....{ Aussie made, way to go, as I think most of the generic USA Mustang products come from pop out Chinese orders and lower grade steel}
From you latest CAD imagery, it is easy to see how your design fits in place..
As for the fuel/power tabs, I would leave that up to individual custom orders, but personally, I would leave them off.

Unfortunately, my car is still not on the road yet, [ long term project] so I cannot comment on the torque box addition, but I do believe the addition will definitely add to the structural stiffening. Don't quote me, but I think all 1st and 2nd gen. convertibles came with torque boxes both sides to counter the integrity a roof structure may add. I have also gone with a CAMS compliant 4 point roll bar to tie it all in......

As for your export brace and monte carlo bars, I say "go for it" as every classic car owner is always looking for that stylish bit of one off, individualism. { no disrespect to the concourse purists of course ].
Picture of my own export brace design, along with a standard off the shelf Mote Carlo bar. Aussie Phil [ stalwart forum member] designed and fabricated his own MC bar which is a really cool design.

Keep up the great work Chris, and good luck mate.....I am sure your products will find a Mustang market.

https://ibb.co/2ZzTHWN
https://ibb.co/GtXkN7w
https://ibb.co/cYx0HDx



Most people don't listen with the intent to understand
They listen with the intent to reply.

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Chassis Connectors
« Reply #4 on: September 25, 2021, 07:05:16 am »
Hey Mike and Chris,
Funny you mentioned about strut bars, I was a bit worried my towers had moved, I need to get a wheel alignment after completing Shelby drop.
All my bars are adjustable so there was a chance over time the towers had moved.
I checked them yesterday and seems ok, 33 13/16” shock bolt centre’s, 40 3/8” across engine bay edges in front of towers.
Having both adjustable IMO is fine as long as you keep an eye on them and reset the exact measurements after doing work.
Cheers Phil.
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline AussiePhil

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Re: Chassis Connectors
« Reply #5 on: September 25, 2021, 07:49:33 pm »
Hey all,
One more chassis stiffening I’ve done is the panel behind the back seat.
When I bought my car this panel seemed like a nice piece of aluminium checker plate.
I took the back seat out and found it was only Masonite sheet with lovely stick on thin decorative aluminium checker.
I replaced it with 1/16” MS plate and x braced it for further strengthening.
From memory I think this is one thing Ralph Nader implemented, rear firewalls, I could be wrong!
As a matter of safety everyone should check if they have a rear firewall!
Cheers Phil.

PS. In saying that many cars now do not have rear firewalls!
But their fuel tanks are not part of and in the boot!

PS. I’ve just noticed a post with much discussion going back to May 2018.
« Last Edit: September 26, 2021, 07:19:48 pm by AussiePhil »
If you've never buggered anything you've never done anything!
But if you've buggered a lot maybe you're not very good at it!

Two for one is good but four for two is better!

Offline Chris66pny

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  • Name: Chris
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Re: Chassis Connectors
« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2021, 09:11:33 am »
Thanks for the input guys, really appreciate it.

Chassis connectors are nearly at a point I'm happy with, just a bit of fine tuning and they will be done. Any thoughts on finish coating? Could powder coat? Problem with that is, it adds a fair amount of cost, you also have to grind away the coating for welding.

The export brace is fully adjustable, as there has been a fair amount posted about off the shelf ones not fitting, these cars are 50+ years old now and a lot are not as straight as they once were.