Do you have to degree a new cam ?

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Author Topic: Do you have to degree a new cam ?  (Read 482900 times)

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1275 on: April 20, 2016, 01:17:32 pm »
.
WIRE BRUSH THE F'N CRAP OUT OF EVER SINGLE SURFACE AFTER PUTTING PAPER IN VALLEY AND INTAKE PORTS.

BE CAREFUL NOT TO TEAR THE END OF THE HEAD GASKETS UP.

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1276 on: April 20, 2016, 01:58:35 pm »
I did, and just did it again...

It's stains on the alloy..

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1277 on: April 20, 2016, 02:27:17 pm »
I did, and just did it again...

It's stains on the alloy..

ok, xlnt...just remember, cleanliness is next to godliness.  :thumb:

how about on the block by the head where the silicone bead will go
« Last Edit: April 20, 2016, 02:29:09 pm by barnett468 »

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1278 on: April 20, 2016, 02:59:27 pm »
ok, xlnt...just remember, cleanliness is next to godliness.  :thumb:

how about on the block by the head where the silicone bead will go

Yeah i scrubbed the sh1t out of it but i'm gonna have to leave it till tomorrow now..

Dentist appointment..  :sick: :cry:

Offline GLENN 70

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1279 on: April 21, 2016, 08:56:32 am »
What page 52 and the bloody thing so doesn't go  :lmao:  :cry:   :cool:

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1280 on: April 21, 2016, 09:00:11 am »
What page 52 and the bloody thing so doesn't go  :lmao:  :cry:   :cool:

Well, it was going...

Tomorrow Glenn  :thumb:

Offline GLENN 70

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1281 on: April 21, 2016, 09:04:53 am »
What just going or going or  :burnout:   And tomorrow I have herd that before ,on about page 15  I think  :lmao:  . Also you will have to get it going because I can't count past 60 .

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1282 on: April 21, 2016, 09:21:01 am »
Well, it was going...

I wonder if part of the rough idle was caused by the water being injected directly into the intake ports.  :lmao:

Perhaps one of these will help get the water out of the cylinders.  :thumb:

..................
.
« Last Edit: April 21, 2016, 09:32:32 am by barnett468 »

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1283 on: April 21, 2016, 12:01:33 pm »
Intake done...

Let's join hands and pray..


Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1284 on: April 21, 2016, 12:50:13 pm »
.
You did get my last message telling you to put contact cement on both sides of the gasket instead of just one didn't you?

« Last Edit: April 21, 2016, 12:52:00 pm by barnett468 »

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1285 on: April 21, 2016, 01:55:10 pm »
.
You did get my last message telling you to put contact cement on both sides of the gasket instead of just one didn't you?


Say what ?

Offline barnett468

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Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1287 on: April 21, 2016, 04:52:13 pm »
Hey Fitzy....you can just get a really small felt pen and write "ARP" on the top of that one odd grade 3 bolt.  :lmao:

 

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1288 on: April 21, 2016, 09:30:01 pm »
Hey Fitzy....you can just get a really small felt pen and write "ARP" on the top of that one odd grade 3 bolt.  :lmao:

Don't fkn start, it's irritating me already..   :flaming:

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1289 on: April 22, 2016, 06:15:52 am »
Don't fkn start, it's irritating me already..   :flaming:

Well, then to be helpful might I suggest that you start another thread that says "Does anyone have a spare ARP intake bolt since they only sell them in sets?"?  :bolt:

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1290 on: April 22, 2016, 06:17:30 am »
What page 52 and the bloody thing so doesn't go  :lmao:  :cry:   :cool:

Hey GLENN....how many pages does it take to degree a cam?


Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1291 on: April 22, 2016, 06:58:01 am »
.
Hey Fitzy, just for reference, here's a video of how your engine should sound when it doesn't have "coolant injection".  :bolt:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5rny2oXogM4&list=PLeUPeJzxyXwRW-cD-WasDeeqSsQFdEUUr
« Last Edit: April 22, 2016, 06:59:43 am by barnett468 »

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1292 on: April 22, 2016, 09:44:38 am »
.
Ok,

1. Fill radiator with whatever you last used to 1" below the top.

2. Remove all the spark plugs.

3. Turn the engine over with the key for 10 seconds . Do not give it any gas.

4. Inspect the plug gap to mke sure none have closed.

5. If the plugs look damp, it is from antifreeze . Spray flammable brake cleaner on dip them in lacquer thinner etc.

6. Reinstall plugs and start normally . Take a video if you want.

7. If it starts, let it run for 60 seconds to get it a little warm.

8. If it idles after 60 seconds, turn it off.

9. Loosen distributor hold down bolt 1/8th turn.

10. Restart engine and let it idle.

11. Turn the distributor clockwise just a LITTLE . If you hear a slight increase in rpm and it does not idle any worse, this is the right direction.

12. If the rpm went up and it idles the same or smoother, turn it clockwise a little more . If it idles rougher, this is too much.

13. If the rpm rpm went up with step 12 and it idles the same or smoother, leave it there ad turn it off then tighten the dist bolt.


Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1293 on: April 23, 2016, 06:08:49 am »
.
TIMING POINTER

If you can install the pointer mounting screw/bolt without removing the lower rad hose, then leave it on.

There are two ways to make this . The first option might be slightly hard to see but you will see it and it will work.


OPTION 1

1. take a piece of thin coat hanger or solid copper wire etc and cut it around 6 inches long.

2. take some needle nose pliers and make the smallest loop you possibly can in one end.

3. cut it so it is  10 mm to 11 mm  long from the center of the hole to the very tip of the wire.

4. paint only around 2 mm of the tip with white paint or liquid white out.

5. put a flat washer in the bolt or screw and then the pointer then screw this into the only hole it will fit into with the end of the pointer to the right of the bolt hole as you face the front of the engine.

6. place it so the tip is only around 3 mm above the damper . no it will not move and hit the damper.
 
6. tighten the screw moderately tight . if the screw bottoms out, simply add a couple washers.


OPTION 2

1. take a piece of thin coat hanger or solid copper wire etc and cut it around 6 inches long.

2. take some needle nose pliers and make the smallest loop you possibly can in one end.

3. cut it so it is  22 mm long from the center of the hole to the very tip of the wire.

4. measure 10 mm to 11 mm from the center of the hole and put a mark there.

5. if you have a vice, clamp the end pith the loop into a vice so that the mark is even with the top of the jaws . if you dont have one, grab it with vice grips etc at the mark.

6. hammer the wire over so it is 90 degrees to the vice or vice grips.

7. remove the wire and bend it just a tiny, tiny, tiny bit more so it is maybe 95 degrees.

5. put a flat washer in the bolt or screw and then the pointer then screw this into the only hole it will fit into with the end of the pointer to the right of the bolt hole as you face the front of the engine.

6. place it so the tip is only around 3 mm above the damper . no it will not move and hit the damper.

7. tighten the screw moderately tight .  if the screw bottoms out, simply add a couple washers.

8. after the screw is tight, you will see that the end of the pointer is not exactly 90 degrees to the damper . simply take some needle nose pliers and grab the wire next to the mounting pad and bend it until the tip is 90 degrees . do NOT bend the tip . AFTER you do this you will see exactly why i had you do it this way and you wont have 20 questions to ask me.

 
DAMPER MARKS

If you left the rad hose on, simply rotate the engine so you can get to the damper marks to paint them . There may be good access from under the car.

1. Put white out on the 14 degree btdc mark and extend the color beyond the end of the line to the end of the damper, then put a 0 to the right of it as you face the engine . This way you will be able to see it AND know what it represents.

2. Make the same line on the 24 degree btdc  mark and put one SMALL dot or the number 1 or 10 immediately to the right of it.

3. Do the same thing at 34 but use 2 dots running parallel to the line or the number 2 or 20.

4. Do the same at 44 but use 3 dots parallel to the line or the number 3 or 30.

5. Do the same thing at 54 but use 4 dots parallel to the line or the number 4 or 40.

Take a photo and post it before you go any further.


This is what OPTION 2 pointer should look like except the whole thing should not be white, just the part that comes over the damper should be white.






This is what the line on the distributor should look like.

Where is the distributor hold down clamp?




Distributor hold down clamp.







« Last Edit: April 23, 2016, 08:31:35 am by barnett468 »

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1294 on: April 23, 2016, 11:02:08 am »
That is whats always been on there, the bolt with the lock washer.

Never really took notice to be honest.


I'll sort a proper clamp

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1295 on: April 23, 2016, 11:06:53 am »
That is whats always been on there, the bolt with the lock washer.

Never really took notice to be honest.

I'll sort a proper clamp

xlnt idea.

im afraid to see any more photos.

are you going to make it run today?

.

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1296 on: April 23, 2016, 11:08:18 am »
xlnt idea.

im afraid to see any more photos.

are you going to make it run today?

.

Surely nothing suprises you with what they did anymore ?

That's the plan..

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1297 on: April 23, 2016, 11:39:35 am »
Surely nothing suprises you with what they did anymore ?

ummm, sadly i keep mistakenly holding out hope that at least one fking thing on it will be right.

i know you were joking when you said they may have simply written the word BAER on the calipers but now im beginning to be a bit more suspicious about that too.

hey....look on the bright side, your $3,000.00 carbs look nice and seem to work fine...well that is from what i could tell for the 16 seconds i have heard it run so far.   :lmao:

« Last Edit: April 23, 2016, 11:41:18 am by barnett468 »

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1298 on: April 23, 2016, 02:37:59 pm »
.
We are now doing the timing [for the last 3 friggen hours for the second time] . Using the previous marks we made on the damper to line it up with [don't ask] . Now waiting for results.

. . . .




« Last Edit: April 23, 2016, 02:41:48 pm by barnett468 »

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #1299 on: April 23, 2016, 03:54:44 pm »
 :flaming: