Do you have to degree a new cam ?

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Author Topic: Do you have to degree a new cam ?  (Read 482672 times)

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #675 on: March 24, 2016, 03:52:26 pm »
did the pin stick out that far on the other cam?

put the cam bolt in now.

then follow the list

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #676 on: March 24, 2016, 03:54:45 pm »
Do you have some 600 grit paper?  :lmao:

You better be joking ?



With the lifters, i couldn't take them out so can i just pour some oil on them ?

Oil on the push rods or assembly lube on the tips ?

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #677 on: March 24, 2016, 04:01:20 pm »
You better be joking ?



With the lifters, i couldn't take them out so can i just pour some oil on them ?

Oil on the push rods or assembly lube on the tips ?

its all on the list .

regular engine oil on everything else.

pour oil on the chain.

put oil on the cam bolt and use a torque wrench on the cam bolt
« Last Edit: March 24, 2016, 04:05:04 pm by barnett468 »

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #678 on: March 24, 2016, 04:11:13 pm »
its all on the list .

regular engine oil on everything else.

pour oil on the chain.

put oil on the cam bolt and use a torque wrench on the cam bolt

Just making sure

40 ft lbs ?

Offline shaunp

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #679 on: March 24, 2016, 04:14:00 pm »
I loctite the cam bolt and retainer plate

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #680 on: March 24, 2016, 04:15:35 pm »
Just making sure

40 ft lbs ?

40 if its orig . 45 if its an ARP



Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #681 on: March 24, 2016, 04:16:58 pm »
I loctite the cam bolt and retainer plate

just put oil on the bolt if you havent installed it yet.

« Last Edit: March 24, 2016, 04:18:39 pm by barnett468 »

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #682 on: March 24, 2016, 04:23:20 pm »
just put oil on the bolt if you havent installed it yet.

Loctite and 45lbs

Done..


Lifters are oiled and back in.



Annndd that's where i'll have to leave it for today.

Gotta pick the mrs up from work and hit the shops.

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #683 on: March 24, 2016, 04:26:43 pm »
Gotta pick the mrs up from work and hit the shops.

You mean they haven't fixed your landcruiser yet or you banned her from driving?  :lmao:

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #684 on: March 24, 2016, 04:39:15 pm »
You mean they haven't fixed your landcruiser yet or you banned her from driving?  :lmao:

Nah it's fixed.

My sister is borrowing it for a few days.


She has a 6 mth old Nissan Juke, driving home from work the other day she lost all power, brakes, steering etc and ran off the road at about 80km/h.

Turns out the alternator bracket that is cast as part of the engine sheared cleanly off, the bracket was still attached to the alternator leaving it flapping in the breeze..

Obviously a major safety issue which is probably why that afternoon her car was being transported to the engineering department at Nissan's head office.

Lucky girl..

« Last Edit: March 24, 2016, 04:40:46 pm by Fitzy1980 »

Offline GLENN 70

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #685 on: March 24, 2016, 04:42:46 pm »
I put loctite on that bolt also ,had one come loose on a 351c once ,NOT NICE ?

Offline J.hatzivalsamis

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #686 on: March 24, 2016, 04:46:39 pm »
Is this a record for the most pages posted????????? Interesting topic though.

Offline GLENN 70

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #687 on: March 24, 2016, 04:48:11 pm »
No just the normal for Barnett  :lmao:

Offline GLENN 70

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #688 on: March 24, 2016, 04:49:25 pm »
And before this thread started I didn't need reading classes ,DO NOW  :lmao:

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #689 on: March 24, 2016, 05:14:14 pm »
Is this a record for the most pages posted????????? Interesting topic though.

Interesting... as in my mechanical ineptitude ?

Or Barnett's people skills ???  :lmao: :lmao:  :lmao:

 :bolt:

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #690 on: March 24, 2016, 06:03:16 pm »
Is this a record for the most pages posted????????? Interesting topic though.

Which one?  :lmao:

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #691 on: March 24, 2016, 06:06:56 pm »
Interesting... as in my mechanical ineptitude ?

No just your reading comprehension skills.  :thumb:


Or Barnett's people skills ???  :lmao: :lmao:  :lmao:

 :bolt:

Hey...I have great people skills but wipe, just ask me.   :lmao:


Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #692 on: March 24, 2016, 06:08:47 pm »
.
Hey, weren't you supposed to be shopping for a dress with your wife something?

By the way, what size you you wear?  :lmao:

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #693 on: March 24, 2016, 06:11:12 pm »
.
Wonder how many pages to will take to adjust the valves.

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #694 on: March 24, 2016, 08:45:02 pm »
.
Wonder how many pages to will take to adjust the valves.

Oh yeah, im really looking forward to that...  :thud:

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #695 on: March 25, 2016, 05:08:31 am »
timing cover installation instructions coming in around 2 hours.

leave the seal in it.

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #696 on: March 25, 2016, 07:36:51 am »
.
Ok, lets have fun . I hope you bought the exact sealers i told you to.

i dont even know how to explain this easily but if you f it up, you will have a big oil leak so hopefully someone else will have a better idea.

read this a few times before proceeding . it should take YOU around 1 hour to do.

If you work too slowly, the silicone will dry and you will have leaks.


CAREFULLY install the cover . you need to have it raised around 6 mm above the oil pan so the gasket does not drag on the block . once it is lightly against the block, push the cover down lightly onto the block . this is a practice run for the final assembly which will give you a feel for what you need to do.

put assembly oil on the end of the crank and the crank keyway after you pour oil on the chain.

clean the crap out of the pan and timing cover gasket surface with brake cleaner or lacquer thinner or mek.

use a q-tip to clean the tiny recessed channels in the timing cover where the curved part meets the flat part . this is where the tiny ends of the rubber seal push into . you might need a tiny screwdriver to dig out any old sealer . you can scratch the crap out of all these surfaces all you want.

install one end of the rubber seal into that slot then carefully push around 1/2 of the seal into the cover . there is a tiny lip on each side of the rubber seal that you may need to push into the slot with a small screw driver but be careful not to cut it.

now take the short cork gasket and insert the tiny tab on the end of it into the formed channel in the end on the rubber seal . this is how this needs to end up before you install the timing cover.

make sure the bolt hole in the cork lines up with the bolt hole in the cover and that the end of the cork gasket is flush with the end of the timing cover . if it is too long, cut it square and flush with a sharp razor blade.

you can also hold the cork gasket in place then draw the outline of the cover on the gasket then remove the gasket and cut just outside the line with a pair of scissors so it doesn't look so retarded which is what i do.

remove the seal and gasket.

lay the big timing cover gasket on a piece of cardboard with the side that glues to the block facing you.

quickly put a THIN bead of silicone on the block where that gasket goes then flatten/smooth it out with your finger.

put a tiny blob at the junction/corner where the oil pan meets the block.

put silicone on the one side of the gasket that is on the cardboard and smooth it lightly with your finger.

install the gasket and line it up with the bolt holes and press it into place with light pressure.

quickly put a thin layer of gaska-cinch on the timing cover where the cork gasket will lay but do NOT extend the sealer to the end of the cover or to the channel that the rubber seal pushes into . leave around 6 mm in both areas/ends clean with no glue.

quickly put a thin bead of silicone on the curved part where the rubber seal goes.

quickly squeeze a TINY amount of sealer into the channels that the end of the rubber seal pushes into.

quickly put a tiny blob on the flat part of the cover that the cork gasket mounts to right next to the tiny slot the end of the rubber seal pushes into . this will seal the extension on the seal to the cover.

it is ok if the silcone touches the gaska-cinch as these two need to overlap after the gasket is installed and the silicone squishes around.

quickly install the rubber seal.

it may be a little long . if so just move it around so the ends fit properly . it is ok if it bulges slightly in the center . it will keep trying to pop out of the channel because of the silicone . as long as the ends are in place, the rest will push back into place when you install it.

put a tiny blob of silicone in the channel in the end of the seal where the tab on the end of the cork gasket will lay.

put a tiny blob of silicone on the cover at the other end of where the cork gasket will be . when you install the cork gasket the silicone will smush and a little will flow into the area where the glue is.

quickly put a thin layer of gaska-cinch on the side of the cork gasket that glues to the timing cover but leave it 8 mm short of the ends just like you did on the oil pan.

wait 2 minutes then lightly place the cork gasket onto the timing cover and line it up with the bolt hole and so that the end is flush with the end of the timing cover.

put around a 2 mm thick layer of silicone all over the flat area of the oil pan and on the curved lip on the front of the pan.

put a thin layer of silicone on the big gasket on the block and back of the timing cover and end of the cork gasket.

CAREFULLY install the cover . you need to have it raised around 6 mm above the oil pan so the gasket does not drag on the block . once it is lightly against the block, push the cover down lightly onto the block.

install 2 screws into each side of the cover and make them lightly finger tight.

install the oil pan screws then tighten them moderately tight/snug with a socket and extension but don't use a ratchet.

after tightening them, tighten them again because they will loosen as the gasket squishes.

install the remaining bolts in the front of the cover then torque them to spec.

tighten the oil pan bolts properly with a ratchet.
 
if you have a bunch of washers or large bolts, put them on the bolts that hold the water pump on and install and tighten those bolts also . if you don't, its not a problem.



MARKING CRANK DAMPER

Get a cloth tape measure.

starting at the TDC mark, wrap it all the way around the damper to measure the od.

place 4 perfectly even;y spaced marks on it starting at TDC.

install the damper . put oil on the damper bolt and torque it to spec.










do the exact same thing to the side of the gaskets that will glue to the cover.







.




 



« Last Edit: March 25, 2016, 07:57:23 am by barnett468 »

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #697 on: March 25, 2016, 09:09:29 am »
 :omg:

Right, well that is a lot to take in...

But i'll give it a crack



I forget the gasgacinch...

Can i use something else ?

It's only to hold the gasket in place yeah ? What about Permatex Aviation # 3 Sealant ?
« Last Edit: March 25, 2016, 09:28:14 am by Fitzy1980 »

Offline barnett468

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #698 on: March 25, 2016, 10:22:18 am »
:omg:

Right, well that is a lot to take in...

But i'll give it a crack

I forget the gasgacinch...

Can i use something else ?

It's only to hold the gasket in place yeah ? What about Permatex Aviation # 3 Sealant ?


nope . it must be gaska-cinch or contact cement . anything else will allow the gasket to move some and since you are a rookie, attempting it without using contact cement is risky, HOWEVER, you can certainly try it . the sealer i am having you put tiny blobs of in the corners will fill most gaps anyway so even you "should" have a hard time fking it up .  :lmao:

just draw a line in the cork gasket to match the timing cover . then when you install the cover and tighten the bolts down, simply make sure the gasket will not squish out.

you can NOT use aviation sealer anywhere on these gaskets.

you need the exact permatex i told you about.


after this pita is done, you are "nearly" home free . adjusting the valves is childs play and even a 10 year old could easily do it if they were literate and could follow simple instructions .  :lmao:





« Last Edit: March 25, 2016, 10:26:57 am by barnett468 »

Offline Fitzy1980

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Re: Do you have to degree a new cam ?
« Reply #699 on: March 25, 2016, 05:50:44 pm »
Cover on, hopefully it doesn't leak.

I'll have to put the damper on tomorrow, cloth tape somewhere but i can't find it so ill get one tomorrow.

Can i put the push rods in and rockers on ?

I've backed the screws out.