Mustang Owners Club Australia Forum
Technical & General Discussion Area => Mustang Chat Room => Topic started by: Mylittlepony1966 on June 02, 2022, 08:11:10 pm
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What diff upgrades are common for a 66 coupe. Not a fan of the single pegger. Not real sure on the ratio, don't need a 9 inch just after a LSD of some sort.
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Hey pony,
Jump on YouTube and watch something like this.
It all depends on your needs.
https://youtu.be/R5v6hXYcEz0
Cheers Phil.
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Thanks Phil will do.
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Hey Kevin,
I noticed you’re from Townsville, I bet it’s a bit warmer than here in Bathurst at the moment it’s currently 1deg.
Good luck Phil.
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Yep, much warmer mate.
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What you want is a true trac centre and depending on what size rims and tyres you may want around a 3.25 ratio .
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I tracked down a lsd centre and put 3.55 in the back of mine. It works well.
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Thanks gents.
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As Glenn says, I’m running a 3.25 ratio true trac centre in my 66 with 331ci engine. Fantastic, no pulling to one side when I give it a boot full.
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USA66
that pulling to one side gives me the screamers.
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What do you guy means by pulling to one side ?
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When you feed it & as it changes gears it is a nasty uncomfortable swerve. In my case anyway
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Hey Kevin,
I’ve had my car for six years, when I bought it was supposed to have a Currie LSD and Strange axles.
First time I pulled the wheels off the axles had Currie stickers on them, so I suppose it’s got a Strange LSD.
Until I need to do something about it (it’s a big job just to have a look) I’ll just guess it’s a Strange spring clutch LSD.
Cheers Phil.
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Does it feel like it wants to change lanes when you get up it when it changes gears ?
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Hey Glen,
No, definitely not, it’s definitely got some sort of LSD, I’m just guessing what type. Strange have many versions!
The axles are dated 97 and the car was imported in May 2000.
I take it the Fox body engine, transmission, tail shaft (has a Drive Line Services of San Diego sticker on it) 9” housing and differential and four wheel brakes were all fitted in the US.
I’ve lost contact with the previous owner (he is no fool and in the motor industry) and an ex MOCA official.
I’ve just got a printout he sent of the details and modifications.
I think he just mixed up the axle and LSD brands typing out the sheet.
I would say it leaves two black lines, but that would be inappropriate and illegal!
Anyone with torque steer should also checkout sloppy steering!
Cheers Phil.
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Does it feel like it wants to change lanes when you get up it when it changes gears ?
Hey Glenn,
I see what you’re all saying now about when it changes gears, no she’s a manual transmission.
Is that what everyone is talking about, I was a bit misled, I’ve never had a high powered auto before!
And was thinking what are these guys talking about!
Cheers Phil
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Glenn and Phil,
It wasn’t really an issue with the 289, but now that I have a higher powered auto, it was pulling to the right under load. Nothing dangerous or anything like that, but the Truetrac sorted it. Now it drives straight under load, fantastic investment. Mine is still a C4 auto.
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Glenn and Phil,
It wasn’t really an issue with the 289, but now that I have a higher powered auto, it was pulling to the right under load. Nothing dangerous or anything like that, but the Truetrac sorted it. Now it drives straight under load, fantastic investment. Mine is still a C4 auto.
Hey Colin,
I noticed you’re in Bunbury WA, you Glen and Kevin in these warm places.
It’s 6 degrees here in Bathurst at the moment.
I suppose if you don’t the cold you can move!
All the best and hope you enjoy your Mustangs.
Cheers Phil.
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A common problem when our old mustang get a big power boost is under power they can tend to veer to the right . That’s not the diff or the front end ,it’s the old leaf springs are weak and bend under power . It’s the rear end causing the driving problems ,
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A common problem when our old mustang get a big power boost is under power they can tend to veer to the right . That’s not the diff or the front end ,it’s the old leaf springs are weak and bend under power . It’s the rear end causing the driving problems ,
Hey Glen,
I totally agree with you, it’s probably torque boxes or lack of and rusty old bodies flexing also.
Have you ever watched American YouTube how to videos, they’re all rust buckets.
I think Australians have given a lot a second life with love and care!
So that brings up another subject, Unibody Subframe Connectors.
They are so easy to fit, Global West make a totally bolt on one.
I made and fitted the Dazecars design one.
Cheers Phil.
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I have subframe connectors on my 70 mach 1 . Depending on the brand some are harder to fit than others . Mine is around 500hp plus so they are a good idea to stop the body twisting .
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Hey Kevin,
Have you checked your rear axle housing is straight.
If it’s crabbing that won’t help!
I think a normal wheel alignment they check rear axle housing alignment, even passenger side behind the drivers side a little won’t help, better the other way if it’s steering to the right.
I’ve got a four link rear end so I specifically asked for it the be aligned.
And one last silly question (but it’s got to be asked, don’t be offended) are your rear tyres the same size (width and diameter).
Cheers Phil.
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Hey Kevin,
I’ve really been investigating this pull you have.
There is very little on YouTube about rear wheel drive torque steer or pull from a differential.
There is heaps about front wheel drive torque steer.
I think Glen has nailed it unless it’s the obvious I’ve just pointed out, sloppy steering, uneven front wheel alignment (very different camber or caster or you have toe out) axle housing alignment, wheel size or air pressure difference.
I really can’t think of anything else.
It’s got me baffled, but I don’t reckon it’s your diff, but Robbo may be right!
I have been proven wrong many times!
Through a diff in anyhow, it can’t hurt!
Cheers Phil.
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Hey all,
All this Differential talk is making me think I should pull my axles and remove the third member and have a look to see exactly what I’ve got.
They reckon that’s the correct way to change the oil anyhow.
I’ve just sucked it out with a Brake bleeder vacuum pump connected to a big glass bottle with two connections on the cap, one to the the vacuum pump and a hose stuck into the bottom of the diff to the other connection that has a hose to the bottom of the bottle in the past, I just keep pumping the vacuum pump every ten minutes or so until there is nothing left, the oil is always clean coming out and is changed regularly.
I’ve all my modifications noted anyhow so it would be nice to know exactly what is in there.
I’m guessing it will be a Strange spring clutch LSD.
Cheers Phil.
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Jack the rear of the car up ,put on axle stands . Then turn one wheel ,if both turn the same direction it’s a LSD , if the other one turns the other way it’s an open ,if the other wheel doesn’t turn it’s a true track . Sure there are other diff centres but that’s what most will have .
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Jack the rear of the car up ,put on axle stands . Then turn one wheel ,if both turn the same direction it’s a LSD , if the other one turns the other way it’s an open ,if the other wheel doesn’t turn it’s a true track . Sure there are other diff centres but that’s what most will have .
Hey Glen,
I’ve done this before but couldn’t remember what it did!
So I’ve just jacked it up, turned one wheel the other didn’t turn, turned the other just to be sure and got the same result.
That’s a pleasant surprise, I just presumed it was an LSD.
Thanks Glen, knowing this now I won’t need to pull it out for a look, way simpler!
Cheers Phil.
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Hey Glen,
This now brings up another issue, I’m using Penrite Pro-Gear synthetic oil.
This is the recommendation by Eaton.
A quality, petroleum-mineral based, GL5 rated 80w-90 gear oil should be used.
Synthetic oils are not recommended for Truetrac applications.
While some customers have found that synthetic oils works well in this application, Eaton has not confirmed under test conditions that all synthetic oils are compatible with Detroit Truetrac applications.
Friction modifiers should not be used because they will decrease performance (reduce differential bias).
So I’ll need to change my oil, it’s not an issue. One thing it’s half the price.
Best to be sure!
Cheers Phil.
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Oh boy great :grin: . If a true track yes a mineral base diff oil ,not LSD oil or synthetic oil as far as I know . The problem is we are not sure what the diff Centre is 100% . I know you did my test but it’s not 100% fool proof . Maybe just leave it the way it is and just drive it .
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Thanks, some good oil in this thread. Happy with the tyres , size & pressures. Could be something in the suspension, it is tired; however, talking to an old school rev head, he has had the same experience with it being the diff at the time. I'm sure like everything with tolerances, a little here & a little there adds up to a compunding error. I will have the front end looked as it is loose.
Meanwhile enjoy those cooler temps.
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Kevin,
If you need help you could try SMS777 here on the forum. He moved his business from Sydney to Townsville a couple of years ago and from a history of posts he knows his stuff - though he is a Mopar guy!
Cheers
Shane
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Hey Glen,
I really want to see for sure exactly lsd / truetrac it is.
So I’m thinking about putting a drain plug in at the same time to make it easier the change the oil in the future.
I was thinking of on centre and a 1/4” bsp tapered inhex brass or zinc coated steel plug. It’s unlikely I’d scrub one in the centre.
What do you think?
Cheers Phil.
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Scollist/Shane
Cheers tracking old mate in TSV thanks.
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Hey all,
I’ve pulled my diff centre out to check exactly what it is.
Glen and I by a simple wheels in the air tests were expecting a geared truetrac?
When I got it out I thought you’re kidding me it’s just an open centre C6AW-4205.
But it doesn’t act like an open centre diff.
After letting it drain the oil off overnight I inspected it further, it’s got a nice new US Gear crown and pinion and a shiny new none genuine diff cover, I believe it may have been overhauled in the US just before it was imported.
Looking on the internet I haven’t come up with much!
It’s not a stock Traction Lok, it hasn’t got the square spring preload plate, but in its place is a round spool that carries the pinion and side gears. It’s not a mini spool!
I’m thinking this round spool may have one spring for clutch pack preload. (UPDATED 19TH June: no that can’t be right because a pin passes through the middle) behind the shiny new diff cover has a clutch pack same as the Traction Lok.
I’ll try and add photos.
Cheers Phil.
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Hey all,
You really don’t get a good idea of the spool pin detail with this photo.
On this end the drive spline has gap in the middle of the spline. That would be the clutch hub and the side gear splines!
Apparently if the diff cover is machined it is a Traction Lok?
Cheers Phil
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Hey all,
This photo shows four bevel gears and the round spool.
Cheers Phil.
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Hey all,
This cross section shows the Ford Traction Lok showing the Square clutch preload assembly.
Where this is mine is round and all three pins are fitted into.
Cheers Phil.
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Hey all,
Update on my diff, I pulled the centre out the other day and found it has a set of clutches and a set of four spider gears but not the usual preloaded of a traction lock diff.
It appears the spider gears through out (Axial) pushing the pinion gear onto the clutch pack locking both axles.
I've searched almost everywhere on the internet and can't find anything like this!
I also emailed YouTuber in America and he hasn't seen anything like it either.
Message me back if you can shine some light on this please!
Cheers Phil.
PS. There are US Gear markings (G in a shield) on the gears, Strange, Currie and Yukon use US Gear.
Cheers Phil.
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Hey all,
After emailing a heap of Differential services I needed to email Currie Enterprises about their axle spacers, I got an answer back about this differential.
It’s classified as a Torque Sensing LSD.
As I presumed it is done for a reason, it’s the same principle as a Torson Gear LSD. (Eaton TrueTrac)
There is less preload on the clutches static and coasting so the clutches last longer. Under power the side gear load the clutches to gain the traction.
Torque sensing LSDs respond to driveshaft torque, so that the more driveshaft input torque present, the harder the clutches, cones or gears are pressed together, and thus the more closely the drive wheels are coupled to each other.
Cheers Phil.