Mustang Owners Club Australia Forum
Technical & General Discussion Area => Tech Torque Pre 1973 => Topic started by: 67FBGT on November 08, 2021, 08:26:23 pm
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Is the recommendation for a standard plug still sitting with the NGK AP5FS? I'm asking because my local SuperCheap no longer stocks NGK, instead they have Autolite and Bosch. The shop assistant went to x-ref the NGK to the others and she came up with numerous options, so I decided best to inquire here.
And of course there are more high-end plugs such as iridiums with purported very long life etc etc.
This for a slightly warmed up 302 with 4-barrel carb.
TIA for any feedback.
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Still NGK AP5FS . Try another parts store , Bursons , repco , or eBay . Buy 2 boxes :grin:
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Thanks for the prompt reply Glenn70, will do. Besides SCA, I have Bursons, Repco and Autobarn quite handy too. :thumb:
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Great news you have those stores to try .
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Autobarn has the NGK AP5FS on special for $5.84 each at the moment.
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And Repco has them for $5.10 if you are an Auto Club member (RACV, RACQ, NRMA etc.), otherwise $6.00
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Awesome, thanks Scollist! Repco it is then. :thumb:
Thanks guys, I just needed to ask the question to be sure I wasn't totally stuck in the past, as I see advertised all sorts of high tech long life plugs special iridium tip whatever blah blah on the market these days (at a price of course...) :thud:
Thanks!
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Presented my RACQ card and got the 8 x NGK AP5FS for just $40.72 at Repco. Thanks all! :thumb:
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Interesting a heat range of 5 is hotter than standard being 6. I tried a 6 and it fouled the plugs 5 is the right choice
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Hey all,
I changed my plugs the other day, just rocked up to Supercheap for some BPR6FS and they said they no longer have NGK, He muddled around and cross referenced it to Autolite 24. oh okay I said and bought them, can’t remember the price. Our car places seem to have different employees every time you walk in. I’m starting to like Repco for their staff.
It’s hard changing some of the plugs near the power steering.
When I got home I checked and fair enough they are the equivalent to that plug.
I was having issues with the engine, sensors, ECU or timing anyhow and another doubt about plugs was the last thing I wanted. (The issues were a long story of the Covid lockdown where I did a heap of unrelated work on my car plus changed a supercharger pulley, made it rich, O2 sensors adjusted out of range? plugs didn’t like it, ECU didn’t like it and ran like a dog, changed the pulley back and still ran like a dog)
I also run a 30 thou. or less gap being supercharged.
Not sure what everyone thinks of Autolite?
Over Christmas I didn’t touch the car for a good while doing odd jobs around the house.
Anyhow I started the engine the other day and issues I was having seems to have cleared itself and it seems fine.
Now I can get it in for a wheel alignment and wouldn’t hurt to get to my tuner for a check up!
Cheers Phil.
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Hi Phil interested in your wheel alignment specs. Once done can you report
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Hey Pete, from dazecars.
Please align to these specs “1967-1970 Mustang, Falcon & Cougar Performance Alignment with or without Shelby drop”.
These specifications are in order of importance.
1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in.
Or here’s another variation
Thanks to Shaunp I found.
1/8" toe in.
-0.5 deg camber.
min of +3deg caster, if it has Power Steering give it as much caster as you get up to +5. More caster the more stable it is in a straight line.
Cheers Phil.
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Hey Pete,
Sorry didn’t read you have a 66.
Compliments from Dazecars!
Please align to these specs “1960-1966 Mustang and Falcon Performance Alignment with or without Shelby drop”.
These specifications are in order of importance.
1. NO more than .25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.
2. +2.0 to +3.5 degrees caster.
NOTE: for cars with Adjustable strut rods. Please attain as much caster as possible using the shims (at least 1.5 to 2.0 degrees), and then use the adjustable strut rods to increase the caster and make the sides the same. Also, please note that the caster difference between the driver’s side and passenger’s side needs to have no more .25 degrees difference prior to the adjustment of the strut rods.
3. -.5 to 0 degrees camber. No positive camber, please. There is no problem having a slight variation from driver’s side to passenger’s side to account for the crown in the road.
4. 1/16" to 1/8” toe in
Cheers Phil.