Mustang Owners Club Australia Forum
Technical & General Discussion Area => Members Cars => Topic started by: 65FastbackAcodeRestoration on August 06, 2013, 05:40:28 pm
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I imported my Fastback about a year ago now, as i bought it on ebay it was bound to have a few surprises upon arrival... I searched for about a year to find one for the right price and that was a factory 4 speed V8. Original Colour was Caspian Blue with blue interior but it had a thick high build primer smothered over the body hiding any hidden trouble spots and original paint was long gone. I've paint stripped as much as I can but some of the primer is simply too hard and thick to absorb the stripper. It came with all interior parts but completely original and seen better days, a 289 in unknown condition, and what I have since found to be a Borg Warner T2 4 speed not a toploader.
This is my first Resto, and is obviously going to be a lot of work/expense etc but since I invested so much time into picking the car and waiting for it to be shipped (7 months) I am willing to see thru the project. I am not going with original Caspian blue as blue is not my thang, instead it will be Raven black with all black interior, but all original in every other aspect as I live in SA. Here are some pics of when we unloaded the bad boy at the docks, and some pics of what was hiding beneath!
Also, if anyone could recommend a place that does a full body media blast and prime at an affordable price, would be very helpful! (located south in SA but willing to take it North etc)
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Arrival in cali at the docks..
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all original, this car must have been sitting for years, obviously not a recent driver..
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chained into the bay, missing some essential items, not numbers matching to my knowledge..
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Santa was good to me... :drool:
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I restored and painted all of the interior pieces my self but may re paint to colour match perfectly when completing the resto
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Welcome to the world of playing with Mustangs.The guys and the girls are going to be your best friends,I done a build 25 years ago without the support of the forum,no internet back then.Stick with the profect it will all turn out fine
I just purchased a recent import that has surprised me a lot as well.Don't feel downheartened
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Welcome to the restoration world, the best way to tackle a resto is to make a list of a plan of attack as to how you want to do things, otherwise it can get a bit much and confusing. If you have most of the paint removed it would be better to use a 80 grit flapper disc on a 4" grinder to remove the remaining paint, medium blasting can be expensive and also if the guy does not know what he is doing cause warping in the panels, especially the roof. I have a 65 FB that was originally raven black, but its such a pain to keep clean,so I think will opted for another colour, but if you are set on black, a red interior looks awesome on these cars.
How come the wheels are off in the first pic?
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welcome to the resto world my friend.
you will enjoy every moment of it.
looking forward to seeing it come to fruition
Cheers
Ron
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Cheers guys! I have a long road ahead, any advice you can throw me will go a long way! the wheels were taken off for transport as there was a larger car stacked above in the container
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welcome unrestored65, to the mustang world, restoring stangs on this site is abit like ####o, we like lots of pictures :grin:
looking forward to the rebuild !
cheers shane
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thickest layer of high build it was like carving a sculpture getting this off, i can feel a lot of bog up under the wheel arch which I am assuming is filling the rot beneath, new rear quarters are in order, although someone has done a lower patch repair on the left quarter, no attempt was made to repair the wheel arch ...start fresh with a new full quarter??
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Welcome and good to see another Adelaide guy in the mix. :thumb:
Are u doing the welding/painting urself ?
Also, if anyone could recommend a place that does a full body media blast and prime at an affordable price, would be very helpful! (located south in SA but willing to take it North etc)
Not sure if its handy for u but I used these guys http://www.idealsteamcleaners.com.au/ (http://www.idealsteamcleaners.com.au/)
They came recommended to me and they did a good job.
Nice choice of car.
Watching with interest and dont forget the regular updates ! :thumb:
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by the look and sound of it , will be more cost effective to replace the whole qtr panel , key is to get the whole car stripped down to bare bones and then do a full take on whats needed in parts plenty of good guys in SA to help with answers.
cheers
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I am a complete rookie when it comes to restoration, this is my first one. I am definitely willing to tackle some things myself welding not one of them though, and although i feel confident i could paint a really nice finish, I think i will leave that to the professionals as I want to do it in Raven black. I took the whole car apart myself and in doing so learnt as much as i could in relation to parts and how it all fits together, I aim to restore all the little nicknacks myself and I do want to do most of the prep for paint and obviously put it all back together again afterwards.
I imported most of the sheet metal and repair sections i need but i did not order rear quarters as the condition was unknown at the time. I am not very mechanically minded when it comes to engines and this is where i will need the most help but i am handy and have a good eye for detail. I hope that along this journey I will learn more about the way vehicles work mechanically and have my dream car at the end of it!
Mind if i ask roughly how much 'idealsteamcleaners' charged for the paint removal? and did they have the option to prime it straight after?
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Was told that the only rust in this car was 3/4 floor pans...this is true, along with the other areas I found rusted thru!! :thud:
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right hand trunk drop off (have full replacement if needed) looks worse in person
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right hand outer wheel well view from inside trunk
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the glass was all there and is the factory green tint, 'Provo High School' sticker still present on the back windscreen from years ago which i may leave as a nod to those who drove this before me!
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Looking at your pics of the car there are a lot of rusty panels that need to be removed. Its probable a good idea to make a metal trolley to fit the car on with casters to move the car around and also to weld in struts in the door openings to stop flexing when structural panels are removed and installed. If you don't have a mig welder its a good idea once you buy one to get into a course on welding.
Bunning's sell the flapper disc in different grades it looks like a series of pieces of sand paper overlapping each other and if you want to get the car medium blasted remove the panels that you will replace anyway to save money blasting panels that you will replace anyway.
What are the condition of the frame rails?
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at this stage i'm not really in a position to be able to build a rotisserie or get into welding but i do have a pit in the garage which i could dig out and get up underneath the car. here's a pic of the left rear frame rail from the fuel tank side, thats the only rust i can find so far in the frame rails, i have two replacement rails just encase.
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really like the idea of keeping the sticker , :thumb: creates a nice piece of history , i am with unilec5544 , one thing though if you are going to knock off paint with flapper disc's be a bit careful dont go to coarse as you will scratch little gouges in the metal surface which can cause extra work later on prepping the surface for paint .
my was way worst than yours so if i can do it you can
cheers shane
http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,14459.0.html (http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/index.php/topic,14459.0.html) this is a link to my thread build
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Cheers for the tip 67fasty if i do try the flapper disc i'll be careful! I'm sure if i put my mind to it I could take it on, it would be great to get my old man involved so i have a helping hand but hav'nt convinced him yet! the whole underside has surface rust as well as engine bay and inside trunk etc so It may be worth getting some kind of blasting as long as the price is right. here's the front right floor pan, is not as bad as the other two rusted out floors but only pic i have at the moment of the floors.
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Shortly I will be getting a full grit blast and primer done, I was wondering if anyone could tell me if the drip rails around the door/roof would need to be removed prior to this, as a while back I tried to unscrew them with no luck, and some info on the net is suggesting the drip rail holds the roof on more or less..is this true??? any suggestions?...
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If you are talking about the stainless around the drip rails, there is no easy way to do this. You can try making a hook to release them from the bottom first, then they should fold off. They will bend on you easily. I would order new ones and tear the old ones off. They are not structural, only cosmetic. When you put the new one on, clip the top over starting from a curved part and use the heal of your hand to thump them on. Nothing else or your will mark them. You with get a bruise on your hand I guarantee it.
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The stainless steel trim is just riveted on and is easily removed, you will then be left with the metal drip rail which is attached to the roof, you do not need to remove this part for media blasting.
Cheers, Neil.
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Mind if i ask roughly how much 'idealsteamcleaners' charged for the paint removal? and did they have the option to prime it straight after?
Only just seen this post.
Was about $600 I think and included etch primer.
Good progress so far :thumb:
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cheers guys, it's been a while since i looked at the drip rail, hadn't realised it was separate to the stainless moulding! I'll just carefully remove the stainless.
...in regards to Adelaide Regency final inspection, whats the max size original steel wheel look i can get away with, 15inch??? or is 14" the max and the width if anyone could help out?
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very grateful that a kind family member sold me all these goodies today for only $180 :)
entire original grill which was missing..
door weatherstrip
original radio
original old stock headlight surround still in box from 65 but never used
and a holley carby which i chose quite quickly out of a choice of about 20 so may or may not be the correct one will need to research more!
all in all a good deal and a couple of steps closer to having all the parts needed :pepper:
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After a year and a half of sitting untouched in storage, I finally have my Mustang in a workshop on a spit and ready to tackle this project! I am basically assisting alongside my resto guy and learning as I go, so I will be updating regularly and hopefully life does not get in the way of completing this!
Have purchased a full floor pan, cut out existing rusty floor, prepped and knocked out any dents in front frame rails, and uncovered a few more areas that need some attention before the new floor gets dropped in later this week.
The floor came with new torque box replacements so we have decided to do these at the same time and clean up beneath them...
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Good to see ur still going.
Looking forward to more progress pics.
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Front RH rocker panel had a nasty rust hole where the bottom of firewall meets.
Have cut out bottom of firewall where it was rusted out and have patched this section accordingly. A few more areas to address before floor goes in probably over the easter weekend.
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Well done so far, don't forget to come down on Easter Sunday for a look at the Nationals..............will be great incentive and you might get some great ideas too......... :thumb:
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RH firewall patch finished...
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Floor still isn't in but making progress!
Had to cut out three sections of the rear trunk lip area where the front floor overlaps, I manufactured these new pieces to fit perfectly, having lots of fun! :smash:
Checked out the Nationals today, very motivating!
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While cutting the torque box out something started smouldering away within from the sparks, turned out to be a nest made of carpet and weeds, no idea how any mouse got through those tiny holes!
Torque box areas have been strip wheeled and re-galved and the bad reproduction box's are ready to be manipulated on!
Front LH firewall patch is not far from finished.
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Patching the rear frame rails while the floors out
and one more section to finish off the firewall
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floor is finally in! such a long time coming as I've owned this car for over 3 years now! plenty of spot welds to clean up then the seat risers and rear seat brackets can go in...
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seat risers done, spot welds cleaned up and galved.
Next project, the trunk floor and rear frame rails!
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Have been tidying up the side of the firewall and beneath cowl before we take the car off the jack stands to do the trunk floor as it was quite rusted out and needed a bit more stability.
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Here is a pic of the seat brackets and interior piece brackets finished off after the new floor installation...
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Awesome, coming along nicely. You should throw some front torque boxes at it while you are at it, help to stiffen up the front.
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LH and RH cowl side drop off's are finished, found and patched some rust underneath the LH cowl but have now found quite extensive rust at the top of the cowl and I am contemplating a new one piece cowl. It's so damn crusty in there anyhow and I am worried about being able to get a nice paint job beneath the vent, so at this stage we are going to leave the cowl alone until I make a decision.
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Dropped the rear of the car on some jack stands today and got rid of the rear part of the rotisserie, have cut out the trunk drop offs and one of the rear frame rails and will replace one side at a time to keep some structural integrity. Check out the state of this frame rail !...
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luckily the tail light panel is in pretty good nick, but it needs some patching where the frame rails attach.
cutting the trunk drop off out underneath the trap door area proved time consuming but I got there in the end!
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Rear trunk panel is clamped in for now, tail light panel patches are in, and rh rear frame rail is welded in.
Slow progress of late as I have been doing a lot of work myself in the trunk area and leaving the welding to the pro.
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Cut out the LH rear frame rail and trunk drop off only to find the inner wheel house had rusted out where the lip of the trunk drop off butts up against it so fabricating a patch for that section.
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Thats coming along great....very nice work.
You"ll be much happier if you replace the cowl...you've gone this far
Keep up the great work
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Thats coming along great....very nice work.
You"ll be much happier if you replace the cowl...you've gone this far
Keep up the great work
absolutely do the cowl esp at this stage as you wont get a better opportunity i reckon.
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Thanks guys, @PET-289 @GRIFF, I think you are right, a lot of the car is being replaced at this stage so may as well replace the cowl !
LH rear frame rail is now plugged into place...
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Tail light brace panel is now in and have manipulated the RH trunk drop-off into place ready to be plugged up.
Might not plug the drop-offs til the quarter panels go in not sure yet.
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Both LH & RH trunk drop offs are sitting in place, and I've screwed the petrol tank in to make sure everything fits right. not too bad actually, just a bit of tweaking to do on one side.
I cut out both rear quarter panels and outer wheelhouses today and have been grinding down the lips left from the outer wheel houses in preparation for the new ones.
I need to get a hold of 2 new full sill panels before we can do the rear quarters as I only recently realised how bad they are.
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Great effort. When you finish you will know every inch of this car. That will make it even more special. Keep following the light at the end of the tunnel.
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Great work, well done
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Have decided that this is a good stage to get the car media blasted and then epoxy coated, as there is access to all the little nooks behind where the rear quarters are meant to be, so the project might slow down a bit for the coming month or so to fund the blast then straight back into it starting with the rocker panels.
In the mean time I have been started on some of the various other tasks at hand like the seat frames... one of which was broken in two places from being sat on presumably!
That seat frame is mended now, then I wire wheeled as much of the frames as I could and gave them a couple of coats of epoxy kill rust, they came up a treat, not that you'll see them!
I've had quotes of up to $1000 just to have them re-upholstered, so at this stage I have been researching how to do it myself and I think I'm pretty confident I can tackle the job.
I've got all new seat foams, and a standard all black interior kit to keep things nice and simple!
Anyone come across a tutorial vid for the rear seat upholstery at all...?!
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Be careful that you get someone that knows how to media blast these old cars, its very easy to warp these panels especially the roof. Personally I wouldn't bother, I just used these pads which I bought at Bunning's, they work well and do not score the metal. You just have to be careful of the lead filled parts.
(http://i1087.photobucket.com/albums/j465/unilec5544/Paint%20stripper%20pad._zps5q9imuem.jpg) (http://s1087.photobucket.com/user/unilec5544/media/Paint%20stripper%20pad._zps5q9imuem.jpg.html)
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Had to use a heat gun and a paint scraper to get off all the bitumen coating underneath the remaining floor and frame rails ready for blasting.
should be blasted by next week.
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I used Ideal STeam Cleaners in Adelaide to get my Ford Escort stripped and primed 4 years ago. If you have not already had the car done or are unsure of who to use, I can recommend them.
I did notice some orange paint showing up under some areas of the primer but am not sure if they just painted over sections without stripping or if this was just a small flecks of un-sanded original paint (most likely the latter). Guess that is the risk you take getting the car primed after stripping.
Think I paid $550 inside and out which excluded the doors, bonnet, boot and roof (too thin and flat to risk media blasting). Be careful using those paint stripping disks. Although they work a treat it is very easy to build up too much heat and warp a panel. It took me ages to get the oil drum effect out of my boot lid!!
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I've had quotes of up to $1000 just to have them re-upholstered, so at this stage I have been researching how to do it myself and I think I'm pretty confident I can tackle the job.
I bought a Master Trim Kit and did my own, wasn't that difficult to do. You need a good quality set of Hog Ring Pliers about 500 Hog Rings and some patience.
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I used Ideal STeam Cleaners in Adelaide to get my Ford Escort stripped and primed 4 years ago. If you have not already had the car done or are unsure of who to use, I can recommend them.
I did notice some orange paint showing up under some areas of the primer but am not sure if they just painted over sections without stripping or if this was just a small flecks of un-sanded original paint (most likely the latter). Guess that is the risk you take getting the car primed after stripping.
Think I paid $550 inside and out which excluded the doors, bonnet, boot and roof (too thin and flat to risk media blasting). Be careful using those paint stripping disks. Although they work a treat it is very easy to build up too much heat and warp a panel. It took me ages to get the oil drum effect out of my boot lid!!
I think any sanding disc will cause a heat build up if you are not careful, even media blasting will cause a heat build up and even worse warp the panel especially the roof. I have seen cases of complete roof panels having to be changed because it was too badly warped. Either way you just need to be careful.
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Cheers for the tips guys :)
Test fitted the rear LH quarter and outer wheel house before plugging up the trunk drop off, the quarter is going to need some tweaking, the trunk drop off falls shy of the bottom of the quarter...
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you got a timeframe for finishing this car (I am looking forward to seeing it around the hills!!) or are you just plodding along and it's finished when it's finished?
When I rebuilt my Escort I stripped all of the cheap and nasty black primer off all of the replacement panels and re-etch primed myself before installation. Not sure how good the paint quality is on the replacement Mustang parts but may be something to consider...
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you got a timeframe for finishing this car (I am looking forward to seeing it around the hills!!) or are you just plodding along and it's finished when it's finished?
When I rebuilt my Escort I stripped all of the cheap and nasty black primer off all of the replacement panels and re-etch primed myself before installation. Not sure how good the paint quality is on the replacement Mustang parts but may be something to consider...
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I have a pretty optimistic time frame of being on the road this summer but we only work on the car a maximum of about 6-9 hours per week and the project started in March. Already there's about 185 man hours into it, and this is my first project so learning everything from scratch myself.
If I can get an engine sorted in the next few months, that should quicken putting the car back together as I have basically everything I need already apart from an engine.
I think i'm going to use a satin black epoxy paint for engine bay, inside the car and inside the trunk area, but probably just over the new trunk panels as I've already re-galved most of them in the process. The exterior will be taken completely back to bare metal including the repro panels and then epoxy primed.
I finished off the trunk area today and really happy with it! Also, cut out 2 rusty patches at the bottom of the inner wheel houses and then fabricated new patches... Getting so excited for the rear quarters :) stilllllll have not got the car blasted as I'm trying to organise a mobile blaster.
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Trunk area finished off...
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these may be American cars but surely that is still a 'boot' :bolt:
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American cars their terminology....just the way it is ..... :shrug:
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So are Japanese car boots referred to as Būtsu?? Time to start a petition to stop the Americans taking over the world one word at a time!! :flag:
Sorry Fastback....have your thread back :event:
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Don't know as I frequent American car forums rather than japanese and as to yanks taking over the world your about 50 years to late..... :grin:
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Haha sorry mate, I guess I get used to calling things by their sheet metal names!
...Anyways, my trunk looks pretty super! yeeee harrrr!
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lol Yes it's all looking great!
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Finally found an engine that is as close to numbers matching as I could hope for!
My stang was built on 21st June 65 and this block was from April 7th 65.
was out of a running car, but has been taken apart and put back together again so I'm going to have it rebuilt and acid dipped etc, and put back to as original as possible which I must say is quite pleasing on the eye! can't go past the black and gold combo from 65 :drool:
Last pic is how I hope to have it look by the end...
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Had the engine bay, rear of firewall, frame rails, remaining of underneath floor, inner rear tail panel, inner wheel houses and surrounding frame work and all door & window jambs sand blasted...
It was a wet sand blast process and was messy as hell but effective!
Currently we have epoxy primed the engine bay and tomorrow the remaining bare metal will receive the same attention.
Starting to notice the progress more and more!
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Engine bay in epoxy...
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It's a nice feeling when you can see clean metal!
I am a little concerned that you left the metal bare for more than 24hours especially after a wet sanding process. Did you clean up the metal before priming or at least use an etch primer??? Don't want the rust to come back.....
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Definitely cleaned up the metal mate, and got it in epoxy in under 24 hrs. The wet blasting also had an anti rust inhibitor added to the water.
We've basically epoxy'd everywhere even in all the nooks and crannies up under the rear quarters and underneath the rear deck filler panel, and the remaining section of floor between the rear wheelhouses.
The roof and remaining body panels will be sanded back to bare metal by hand as to minimise warping.
The cowl and RH sill panel need to be replaced and rear quarters can then go in.
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Cars come along beautifully, it's good to see progress. :thumb:
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Very nice indeed
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Decided to replace the front RH apron as battery acid had rusted thru to the double panel underneath over the years and there was extensive pitting. could have patched it but the rust was located over some pressed detail in the panel.
Have also decided to attack the new two piece cowl next instead of the rear quarters.
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Started on the cowl... Removed/prepped/test fitted, and have now taped off the new panels ready for epoxy, then I'll paint the bottom panel black before putting the top panel on.
I've cleaned up behind the dash too and will hit this with the epoxy while there's access.
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Wow, that's a seriously big job, you will know every inch of the car when it's finished, can wait to see it, coming along nicely.
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Cowl panel is in epoxy, will jet black the inside of the bottom of the cowl panel tomorrow and seam seal then final fit.
cleaned up and epoxy'd the back of the dash panel too...
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Inside of cowl seam sealed & painted jet black.
Gave the back of the dash and rear firewall a coat too.
Here's a couple snaps of the test fit, measures up really nice..
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Super clean work, spot on and great attention to detail.
This car is going to be so much better than new.
Commendable! :cheers:
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Thanks @Littlejohn & @66stang !!
Cowl panel is finished off... it has been spot welded in the correct places and just needs EP around the edges now.
RH rocker panel is getting replaced at the moment, it was worse than I thought in there about 2kg of dirt and rust build up fell out!
The LH rocker is not as bad but there is a patch that needs attending to so were going to use a section out of the old RH panel.
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Nice work
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Sent every other part except for body panels off to be blasted recently... used a mob called 'Dudley park fast blast'... highly recommend them, as they did a thorough job, and came in at half the price of some quotes I got!
I then, got to work on putting all of these parts in Epoxy which was quite time consuming, then two or three coats of Raven Black Acrylic urethane Enamel. Some of these parts may get another coat of a slightly different black later on down the track, but I'm pretty happy with the result, and it's a great hunk of stuff out of the way that I don't have to worry about now!
I had the inside of one of my doors blasted as it had lots of surface rust, and I was surprised that it retained the pressed grain feature as much as it did :)
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My engine has had all the machine work done now, and I was given back the exhaust and intake manifolds to paint for now while the engine shop assembles my 289, which should be ready in the next couple of weeks
I actually quite liked the wet grey look of the freshly blasted manifolds !...
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That would have been very time consuming a tedious. Feels nice to have shiny parts doesn't it!!
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Amazing effort & transformation, looks great.
You would want to keep this when it's finished because you know exactly what you've got. Well done :thumb:
Mick
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I notice you have sand blasted the oil pump, Be careful, this could cost you a second rebuilt on the engine,For the price of a new pump, i would buy one...
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I notice you have sand blasted the oil pump, Be careful, this could cost you a second rebuilt on the engine,For the price of a new pump, i would buy one...
i second that :thumb:
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I was thinking that myself ! I don't know a whole lot about engines to be honest and I'm learning as I go...I also accidentally had the inside of the sump sand blasted and then I painted that too so a few mistakes along the way! I'll be sure to buy a new oil pump, considering my engine is practically brand new.
All machine work has been done on the 289 and is assembled, ready to paint, I've taped it up and will paint shortly.
Can anyone recommend a nice engine enamel in a spray can? ..and is there the need to use a heat resistant primer ?
Cheers for all the tips guys!...
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this is the most detail iv seen as fare as pictures go for a resto!, great work mate!, the feeling you will get once you turn the key for the first time on the road is going to be somthing you will never forget!
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Things have been going a bit more slowly recently... I've restored my heater box, had already painted it a few years back, but finished it off by taking the metal internal flap doors to bare metal, painting those up, then applying new foam seals with spray adhesive. Was a pretty satisfying little task !
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I gave the engine 3 coats of VHT gloss black engine enamel came up a treat really happy with the result and can't wait to see it all finished off with the gold air cleaner and rocker covers! I will paint these gold soon using an oem spray can from the states that I found at Eastcoast mustangs in Vic.
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Finally I have taken the last remaining 1 inch thick bog off the roof that the previous owner so thoughtfully left for me to deal with!
The roof was not as nice as I would have hoped, it's hard to tell in the pics but there was, rust pits scattered throughout the area, which I presume was caused by moisture sitting underneath the bog that shouldn't have been there. So after taking it all back to bare metal with an orbital sander, I applied a solution called rust blast and scrubbed the steel for about 2 hours straight letting it penetrate the little pits, It literally eats the rust away. then I purple strip wheeled the whole roof to bare metal again, then another 2 hours of rust blast solution, and surprisingly the roof came up quite nice !
My panel beater is now in the process of knocking out any dents, and giving it a thorough metal filing. My car will have very little filler and will be metal file finished where possible.
I will then spray the roof with Epoxy like the rest of the car.
I also used rust blast solution on the RH door skin. The LH door is being re-skinned.
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All up about 22 hours went into the roof between myself and the beater... applied the rust blast 2 times, then hours of metal file finishing and dent pulling followed by another rinse in rust blast solution and finally we've got the main roof panel in epoxy. Now the same treatment around the quarter vents, deck lid and rear tail light panel.
I also took the repro panels in the boot area back to bare metal and epoxy'd accordingly as some forum members have suggested the factory black coating is not all that lasting.
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Roof has come up like new, hats off to you and your beater. :thumb: If you can get the underside of the roof panel in epoxy as well, even if you just use a paint brush, it will never have rust issues again.
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sanded the rear seat area and behind quarter vent windows etc, and got them painted up at the same time as the boot, also got a coat of EP on the new front RH engine bay panel.
The only section that needs epoxy now to prevent the car from further rusting is the rear of the roof, but I will sand both sides of the new floor panel, the underside of the roof and the dash and coat them in epoxy too as it gives me peace of mind :)
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Top effort :thumb:
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Looking forward to seeing this car hit the streets :thumb:
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Not a lot got done of the christmas period, but have made a start on the Rh quarter/outer wheel house/ rocker panel.
The front rocker extension is welded in place.
Many hours have gone into aligning the new sheet metal up with the added variable of the new rocker panel which needed some tweaking.
Have made sure the door gaps etc are all nice and even, and today we made the cut thru the new quarter and remaining old quarter.
The reproduction boot drop off panel is not long enough and does not meet up with the bottom of the new quarter panel so will need to make up a section accordingly.
Pretty exciting stage seeing the quarter's going back on !
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Also, when choosing the new quarter panels I opted for the more expensive two piece full quarters because at the bottom they included more detailing close to the originals, but there was no need to use the gill surround pieces on my car, and it turned out that the lip at the top of the panel was no where near close to what it should have been so the call was made to cut below the style line and retain that original detailing...
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Got the rocker panel all plugged in today and made a start on the quarter panel...
The rocker will be spot welded too at a later date but is well and truly fixed until then.
Lots of time went in to lining up the style lines with the door and although not 100% perfect we found a happy medium and will complete some of the detail with lead wiping.
The rear of the rocker panel did not meet up with the wheel arch or quarter and therefore needed a slit cut to meet the arch line and was the welded shut again and ground down...this will receive lead wiping too.
The rear of the quarter is not plugged for now, as we will get the LH wheel house and quarter to the same point and then build up the bumper/valance/quarter extensions to make sure everything will line up before permanently welding up the rear of the panels.
Great to finally see the car looking like a car again!
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:thumb: :thumb: :thumb:
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Bit of bronzing added to the RH quarter/pillar/wheel arch areas...
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Lead joins re-wiped & quarter panels metal and lead finished finally....
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Nearly all of the body shell now complete apart from some minor dents to LH rocker panel...
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Looking good
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Thank Mwizz, pretty stoked to see the project reach this stage, hanging panels still need some work and epoxy.
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The dents to the LH rocker panel are now pulled out, lead-wiped & filed.
The LH door original skin has been taken off but seems there is a fair bit of surface rust inside so i'll get this blasted possibly tomorrow before the new skin goes on...
I've also been putting together the new headlight buckets tonight to check for quality and fitment...I've used the NOS headlight surround on the RH side because the repo one was a shocking fit within the bucket.
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got the new floor, inside of rear quarters, rockers, and ceiling in epoxy today, starting to look like a nice clean slate!
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Front pillars have been re-wiped with lead.
New LH door skin is done and the few rust holes to bottom of the door have been patched...
The inner door shell will need to be media blasted again as the epoxy did not stick...good thing only one panel has been blasted by that mob...
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Getting really close now, were the door skins welded on or did you use an epoxy glue?
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That's coming along well now and in seeing some old school remedies in there will make it a nice resto..
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Door skin was plug-welded and has bronze welds to corners...
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Metal work all done. Now to save up for paint........
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sweet
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It looks cool just sitting there like that
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If you can get the engine bay painted then you can at least do all of the front suspension and even get the engine and tranny in.
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I've got the engine bay paint so that will definitely be my next step. I'll leave the exterior paint to a pro !
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URGENTLY need a 65 4 speed toploader original prefer rebuilt and prefer code HEH-BT C5AR-7006D but will consider a rebuildable toploader -don’t mind where in Australia it is located please PM with any leads! Need ASAP to complete the restoration!
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PM sent, but don't get your hopes up.