Mustang Owners Club Australia Forum
Technical & General Discussion Area => Technical - General => Topic started by: P8TRIOT on October 08, 2012, 09:37:36 am
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Hi all.Ive noticed quite a few different rust proofing products available for the do it yourselfer.Any advice on what to use or what peoples experience is with certain products?Thanks.
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Wurth 'cavity protection' is what I use in my shop. Awesome product and easy to use, in an aerosol can, with several adapters includes for tight spots. Sets up like wax should, so doesn't wash off and doesn't stink like fish oil. If you have trouble getting it, I can get it for you through the shop here.
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Sean,
Where is you shop located and do you carry thi stuff in stock, whats it worth?
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Wurth is a product brand name...they sell heaps of stuff
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Wurth 'cavity protection' is what I use in my shop. Awesome product and easy to use, in an aerosol can, with several adapters includes for tight spots. Sets up like wax should, so doesn't wash off and doesn't stink like fish oil. If you have trouble getting it, I can get it for you through the shop here.
Thanks for the offer BossKraft. I should be able to get it.If not i will let you know .Cheers.
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No worries, mate. It's available around the place. Not everyone stocks it, as it's not cheap, but with what I use of their products, it's a case of 'you get what you pay for' and I love that particular product.
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Hi Guys,
Have you tried this product before http://www.walmart.com/ip/RUSFRE-1000-6C-Rust-Proofing-Clear-1-Gallon/29531245 (http://www.walmart.com/ip/RUSFRE-1000-6C-Rust-Proofing-Clear-1-Gallon/29531245)
It's really effective for rust proofing. Vitacare (http://www.vitacare.com.au/)known as a Rust Proofing company in Perth used this product also.
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Well I can also vouch for the Wurth range of rust proofing products, as all of my cars I have kept for many years without an issue. And I particularly like their underseal coating product.
Fish oil seems to work well, in that it seems to creep or be drawn into crevices which is what one wants, it's very thin so takes a while to set up & so you'll be cleaning up drips for a while but that's easy just lay some old cardboard on the floor. Yes it is smelly for a while, but the smell eventually goes away. And it's cost effective.
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por15
absolutely can not beat it
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I agree with Sean that Wurths Cavity Protection wax is brilliant. comes with a thin tube for hard to access areas, I think products have come a long way since the days of fish oil which is just plain rank (don't plan on entertaining ladies in your car for 6 months or so, ha!)
Wurths rep's get around panel shops on a regular basis if you need to track some down or take up Sean's offer.
and POR15 black as a one stop coating has no equal. paint it on bare metal with a brush and it's self leveling, looks like it's been sprayed on. I've done all 4 wheel wells and main rails with it. hammer tough and looks top shelf. I'm not a fan of the underbody sealer stuff and POR15 gets the chocolates in my opinion.
both these products aren't cheap but who cares about cost for good quality
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Worth is the go
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i would use por 15 SW2 PROTECTIVE OIL in all the hard get to places eg: panel overlaps rear quarter join. spray via a hand spray bottle. then a can of cavity wax also. make shore the can comes with a nozzle tube extension.
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Does anybody know where I can purchase the "Wurths Cavity Protection wax" aerosol cans in Melbourne, ideally outer eastern suburbs ?.
I have called Bursons, my local paint shop and Repco with no luck.
Any leads would be appreciated, Tony
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http://www.wurth.com.au/index.php?q=content/contact-0 (http://www.wurth.com.au/index.php?q=content/contact-0)
:thumb:
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http://www.wurth.com.au/index.php?q=content/contact-0 (http://www.wurth.com.au/index.php?q=content/contact-0)
:thumb:
I called the Dandenong head office as listed on their web site but was told "trade only", which I'm not.
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Perhaps try one of the others. I drove past the Thornton, NSW, store today and it looks as if it were a retails store. It's next to a pie shop, across from a McDonalds and just down from a Subway which is why I thought the other listed Wurth stores may be similar.
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Try a body supplies shop that services the crash repair industry.
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:thumb: up for KBS products did my inner fendors and chassis rails this week.
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:thumb: up for KBS products did my inner fendors and chassis rails this week.
Looking good Ray, I cant wait to see your pride and joy back on the road mate :thumb:
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Thanx John, me as we'll taking to long.
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I know this is an old topic, but what do you guys use on surface rust that is in amongst older paint and rust proofing. I know POR 15 is the ultimate, but I think you really need to have bare metal all round for that to be applied in a successful manner.
I saw some surface rust (early stages) underneath the carpet and noise insulation. This is obviously from sweating. I am not really able to strip back entire areas and coat with POR 15. So what is a good solution?
I did my own rustproofing about 7-8 years ago and things are holding up pretty well, but it is time to go through it again I think. I used Tectyl for the hard to reach areas and sprayed it in there.
Anyway, what do you guys use?
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For a handyman grade product, I've found Dy-Mark Rust Reformer really good for dealing with surface rust. Actually nuetralizes the rust rather than just covering it up and applies well over bare metal and painted surfaces too, plus you can paint over it if needed.
$11.50 a can at Bunnings: https://www.bunnings.com.au/dy-mark-350g-rust-reformer_p1580551 (https://www.bunnings.com.au/dy-mark-350g-rust-reformer_p1580551)
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For a handyman grade product, I've found Dy-Mark Rust Reformer really good for dealing with surface rust. Actually nuetralizes the rust rather than just covering it up and applies well over bare metal and painted surfaces too, plus you can paint over it if needed.
$11.50 a can at Bunnings: https://www.bunnings.com.au/dy-mark-350g-rust-reformer_p1580551 (https://www.bunnings.com.au/dy-mark-350g-rust-reformer_p1580551)
Thanks BAC!
I know you said painted surfaces too, but wondered if it works as well? I have some patches where I plan to sand back to bare metal and then kind of feather sand the edges. I was thinking of applying the Ranex Rust Converter to it, but it sounds like this might be better. I had never heard of this product, but I think I will definitely give it a go. What's been your experience? Has it stopped the rust? How long has it lasted?
While discussing Bunnings... Do they stock any kind of a wax or something that will run in between gaps? I have some left over Tectyl from 7 years ago. I think that should still be ok to use.
I was wondering about what to do on the flat surfaces, but your post about the Dy-Mark product was very timely. Thanks very much.
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I know you said painted surfaces too, but wondered if it works as well? I have some patches where I plan to sand back to bare metal and then kind of feather sand the edges.
Should be fine for what you want to do. I've actually used it over the top of existing paint where I've needed a quick flat black finish. Suppose it might depend on what type of paint you're trying to cover, but not too expensive to give it a go and see how it turns out.
What's been your experience? Has it stopped the rust? How long has it lasted?
While discussing Bunnings... Do they stock any kind of a wax or something that will run in between gaps? I have some left over Tectyl from 7 years ago. I think that should still be ok to use.
Typically I've wire wheeled off any loose/flaky areas first so I have a mixture of clean bare metal and surface rust areas that are solid and dry. Coating sets hard and seems to be durable, no reason it shouldn't last for years. Don't know much about the wax products so can't help you there.
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Hi Guys,
Have you tried this product before http://www.walmart.com/ip/RUSFRE-1000-6C-Rust-Proofing-Clear-1-Gallon/29531245 (http://www.walmart.com/ip/RUSFRE-1000-6C-Rust-Proofing-Clear-1-Gallon/29531245)
It's really effective for rust proofing. Vitacare (http://www.vitacare.com.au/)known as a Rust Proofing company in Perth used this product also.
You guys have wallyworlds's in oz?
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Are there any Tectyl believers in here?
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Are there any Tectyl believers in here?
Yes. fisholene first to soak in, then sealed with Tecyle, Worth make a similar wax.
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Yes. fisholene first to soak in, then sealed with Tecyle, Worth make a similar wax.
Fisholene first, then Tectyl? I had never heard of doing it that way. I thought it was a matter of using one product of the other?
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I've had good results using Deoxidene which contains Phosphoric Acid. Paint it on, wait for it to turn black, wash it off, dry and paint.
It's available from automotive paint suppliers.
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This might sound weird but I've found 'Penetrol' successful in stopping rust in the bottom of doors etc. Lower viscosity than water, so should go places water can't. Similar to Fish Oil....without the smell. (Also available from bunnings in a spray can to get in hard to reach places...)
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This might sound weird but I've found 'Penetrol' successful in stopping rust in the bottom of doors etc. Lower viscosity than water, so should go places water can't. Similar to Fish Oil....without the smell. (Also available from bunnings in a spray can to get in hard to reach places...)
I ended up going with Penetrol. The thing that convinced me was that a Painter told me that he uses the stuff on roofs and has never seen rust return after using it. At the end of the day, you hope for the best...