Mustang Owners Club Australia Forum
Technical & General Discussion Area => Restomods => Topic started by: dunwood on May 01, 2009, 10:04:54 pm
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Hi' i've started to restore a 68 mustang that i brought off a importer in victoria two weeks ago. It came complete apart from a motor or gearbox which suited us fine.
(http://images.fotopic.net/y0aa6a.jpg)
interior is complete apart from the steering wheel.
(http://images.fotopic.net/y0aa68.jpg)
since then, i've started to pull the car apart for it to be converted to RHD.
(http://images.fotopic.net/y0daut.jpg)
the dash is out
(http://images.fotopic.net/y0bz9n.jpg)
I also removed the carpet, expecting to see rust, but i saw none at all.
(http://images.fotopic.net/y041tg.jpg)
(http://images.fotopic.net/y041u6.jpg)
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Nice mate, lets hope the rest of the car is as clean as the floors.
cheers.
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Welcome aboard dunwood and looks like a good basis for a resto. What code is she and which state do u reside in??
Cheers.
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Nice ride. What engine and box are ya thinking of running.
Cheers
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Thanks every one for your comments. This is my first mustang restoration, so it's a bit of a learning curve for me.
victorypark: It's a C code Mustang in The south east suburbs of Melbourne.
chillichadd & t-code kid: I haven't decided on the motor/gearbox setup yet. Depends on what i find at upcoming swap meets.
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South East Melb huh ?
Same as my good self.
Lysterfield is my area - you ?
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Another Sth Eastern Mustang in the area. There are quite a few around me here in Narre Warren. Welcome, dunwood.:]
Hopefully we can catch up with you soon! Johnno.
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Great to see another '68 coming along! Welcome, congratulations and enjoy!
Cheers, Ron B
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Looks like a tidy thing.
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I'm in Pakenham area.
Anyway, the front end of the car is now out of the car. I'm picking up a XY Caliper's and XY Stub Axles for the front end on saturday. I'm also started to strip the rear end to convert to Disc Brakes.
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the rear drum brakes are now off
before
(http://images.fotopic.net/y0eh6p.jpg)
after
(http://images.fotopic.net/y0idtu.jpg)
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I got my first new part for the mustang. Eccentric Ellimonators
(http://images.fotopic.net/y0rh4a.jpg)
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Mustang owners can be a bit over the top sometimes but what the hell are those thingy's?
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Originally posted by MustangNut
Mustang owners can be a bit over the top sometimes but what the hell are those thingy's?
Have a look here:
http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Suspension/eccentric-elim.htm
1967 through 1977 Fords used an eccentric bolt on the lower control arm to adjust camber. The problem with this method is the potential for the lower control arm mounting position to change or shift when subjected to heavy impacts or loads, such as potholes, curbs, road debris, off-track excursions... To prevent this from happening, our 11-position eccentric eliminator kit is used to lock the lower control arm in place. We like to think of this as preventive maintenance.
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Thats them, but i got mine from www.totalcontrolproducts.com. these type also don't turn like the old round one used to do
also started to strip the paint in the engine bay
(http://images.fotopic.net/y0tysw.jpg)
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Nice work mate. Might have to go head to head with u mate with the resto but u r well ahead. I'm still in planning mode.
Still trying to work out what to "attack" first.
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well this is my first mustang. so this is a learning curve for me
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as of 31st May 2009 i've stripped all of the paint out of the engine bay and have started undercoating it
(http://images.fotopic.net/y0v9a0.jpg)
it's supposed to be grey, but it came up white on the camera
Have also started to make up front disc brakesfor the mustang. i'll put ti up here when it's finished sometime this week
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lookin good!coming along nicely.
cant wait fo rnext set of pics.
i wish i can work on mine but i havent even got mine home yet ;]
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what car are you waiting on 67TTCoupe?
anyway here is some more work that i've done on my car
(http://images.fotopic.net/y0wlc6.jpg)
also done up the track rods
(http://images.fotopic.net/y0wlct.jpg)
and the tie rods
(http://images.fotopic.net/y0wlcu.jpg)
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cool more pics. :(
i bought a 67 coupe unfinished project from my work supervisor. he spent the time and lot money on it. kinda was a steal so i had to have it :f
though i have 5 cars allready stashed need to get rid of one or two so i can bring the mustang over as its still in pieces = lot of room needed.
than the fun starts. cant wait. lucky my other half loves it too so looks like we be spending bit more dosh on it than originaly anticipated.
she wants new interior. whos to complain.
http://www.mustang.org.au/forum/viewthread.php?tid=6720
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Good to see another 68' in the making. Congrats!!
Are you going to keep the same interior?
The 68 deluxe interiors are hard to come by. The chrome bezels look in good nick, as well as the woodgrain.
Must say - for your first mustang you are getting down to some serious restoration first up!!
See you on the road in the near future.
John
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Originally posted by dunwood
as of 31st May 2009 i've stripped all of the paint out of the engine bay and have started undercoating it
(http://images.fotopic.net/y0v9a0.jpg)
it's supposed to be grey, but it came up white on the camera
Have also started to make up front disc brakesfor the mustang. i'll put ti up here when it's finished sometime this week
Make sure you porta power those tower support wings back to the towers and weld them up, before you paint it, and check for cracks.
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Originally posted by shaunp
Originally posted by dunwood
as of 31st May 2009 i've stripped all of the paint out of the engine bay and have started undercoating it
(http://images.fotopic.net/y0v9a0.jpg)
it's supposed to be grey, but it came up white on the camera
Have also started to make up front disc brakesfor the mustang. i'll put ti up here when it's finished sometime this week
Make sure you porta power those tower support wings back to the towers and weld them up, before you paint it, and check for cracks.
Hey Shauno, could u explain the process u mentioned in the quote mate just for us first time restorers.
Cheers
VP
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Ok as most of us know the front end of these things is pretty weak, one main issue is the shock towers crack and flex like hell. One of the reasons for this is they are just spot welded together. If you look at the inside of the tower, where the top control arm bolts come through you will see like a bat wing strengthening plate, it's pretty heavy gauge. Over time the front edge of this bends away from the tower, I've seen them with a gap of 10mm, it should be hard up against it. You need to puch it back against the tower and weld it. This stenghtens the lower part of the tower where the they crack. Often the spot welds are broken because there arn't enough anyway and they crack, to the spot weld as this forms a bending moment. Weld them vertically on front and back edge, you can grind up the front edge to look stock if you want. Drill some holes though the lot and plug weld them to fix the spot welds close the center. You can see the gaps on the front edge in the picture above. This makes them stronger and less likely to crack. Make sure you have an export brace + crossmember fitted etc etc when you do it so as not move the towers, just the plates.
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My '68 is currently being repaired from this fault and a cracked right rail as well. I strongly recommend you heed Shaunp's advice as the repair is decidedly costly.
Cheers, Ron B
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OK, i did some NDT to both sides of the turrests on both sides of the car with FLAWFINDER SYSTEM http://www.rocol.com/lubricants/english/metalworking/flawfinder/
No cracks were found in the area of concern.
The only crack was on the export Brace which i'll need to fix.
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Before you weld it, make certain you've found BOTH ends of the crack and drill a 1/4 hole at each end of the crack, then weld up the crack and holes., otherwise the crack will keep on spreading. This is what happened to me!!!
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Originally posted by dunwood
OK, i did some NDT to both sides of the turrests on both sides of the car with FLAWFINDER SYSTEM http://www.rocol.com/lubricants/english/metalworking/flawfinder/
No cracks were found in the area of concern.
The only crack was on the export Brace which i'll need to fix.
OK cool,so just push the strenghtening plates back where they should be , and weld them so they don't move again.
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The other day, i visited a mate of mine who is doing up a Shelby Cobra GT500 and noticed that he had removed the front end out of it. I asked him what he was doing with the old front end which he just put in a month or so. He's decided to change the front end to a Total Control Products front end. and he said "You can have the old front end" and now i have front discs for my car now.
(http://images.fotopic.net/yz87yg.jpg)
as you can see, it came with a pile of other stuff. Half i can't use (Lower control arms have stuffed bushes, Spring saddles have stuff bushes and the springs have been cut with a hacksaw). I also need to change the tie rod ends on my mustang to fit onto the spindle as mine are slightly smaller.
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Yeah, apparently they were knock off's made in china. But the rest of it is american made so i should be right.
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BTW, does anybody know where to get rocker covers for the Aust 302 EFI Motor?
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I use standard mustang rocker covers on my Aust 302 EFI heads, on my third set (currently running the Hi-po chrome style).
Are you after anything in particular?
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something like this
(http://ep.yimg.com/ip/I/yhst-13525187779972_2059_1668318)
some poeple say they will fit, some say they wont and some say they will only fit as long as you don't use roller rockers so i'm a bit confused as to who is right as i'd like to fit roller rockers to the motor for the mustang
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Finally a day that hasn't been wet or cold. I've 90% done removing all the interior of the car. Today the heater box, plenum chamber and the ducts were taken out of the car. the ducts are stuffed as well as the plenum chamber (it's only made out of cardboard). The heater core looks ok, but i'm am going to have it pressure tested to make sure there is no leaks as there was a fair bit of water in the heater box. i'll be getting into it more as it's warms up here.
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the diff was taken out today
(http://images.fotopic.net/1ym6s5.jpg)
it's a 8" 2.79:1 diff
while the diff is out, dad wants to paint it light blue for some strange reason.
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light blue? like ford engine blue?
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lighter than the ford engine blue. Like a powder coated blue
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But it might get dirty!:w:w
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It will get better than the rusty brown it is now. Well today i finally sorted out the rear brakes. I picked them up from Blue Oval Garage. t will be awhile before they go on the car, but i couln't pass up a discount on the kit.
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Ok it looks like i've been duped. Those stub axles and disc setup that i got (and assured that they were the right one's for my car) are in fact for a 68 Ford Torino or Fairlane. :_ So now i've got to get my hands on some tie rod ends for a 68 Torino or Fairlane. Where can i buy a set of them in australia or will need to import some from america?:
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68 Torino stub (spindles) are the same as 68 Mustang. Part # C8OZ3105A (right) C8OZ31O6A (left).
Usage 68-9 Torino, 68-9 Montego, 68-9 Mustang (except Boss302), 68-9 Falcon (US & maybe Australian).
Tie rods from an XW Falcon or later will fit.
The lower arms in the picture you posted on 25/6/09 are 67 lowers.
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Thanks ozbits. just as i posted that, i checked a ford torino parts catalog and it quotes the same part number for the tie rods as the mustang one. so i checked it and it in fact fits after all. so disaster avoided.
now i just haft to get rid of a set of mustang 1970 tie rod ends which i was told by the guy that i brought the front end from that i needed them to use on it as the ones on my car (1968 tie rods) won't fit. pisses me off being told wrong info.
BTW, is there a length distance between the 67 Lower control arms to the 68 Lower Control arms?
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Originally posted by dunwood
Thanks ozbits. just as i posted that, i checked a ford torino parts catalog and it quotes the same part number for the tie rods as the mustang one. so i checked it and it in fact fits after all. so disaster avoided.
now i just haft to get rid of a set of mustang 1970 tie rod ends which i was told by the guy that i brought the front end from that i needed them to use on it as the ones on my car (1968 tie rods) won't fit. pisses me off being told wrong info.
BTW, is there a length distance between the 67 Lower control arms to the 68 Lower Control arms?
67 & 68 lower arms are the same length. I picked the arms in your pic by the 4 holes. 67 uses a straight caster bar, 68 on uses a curved end caster bar. If you had lower arms when you pulled the car down, then they will fit the 70 bars. If not just get a set of XW (or later) lower arms.
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Not much done for a few months due to starting a new job.
anyway here is the diff being painted blue by dad while i was at work.
(http://images.fotopic.net/12ojy8.jpg)
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it has one on it already on the other side of the diff. the arrow shows where it is
(http://images.fotopic.net/12ot8u.jpg)
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True,
But a DRAIN plug in the bottom makes life so easy when you have pulled out like that.
Just an option
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Yep that's a filler plug alright, but without pulling out the diff centre how do you drain it to replace the oil????
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& make the drain plug in the base a magnetic one...
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this is the car that will give it's motor and gearbox to my mustang.
(http://images.fotopic.net/12qdm9.jpg)
i got it from a council auction about a year ago.
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Whats going on over here then?
So this is where all you late model 68's are hanging out!
Good on you Dunwood, looks like you having a ball too.
Luvhev
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I've just spent all weekend looking and buying parts for my mustang. I must of been to about six parts places to find the parts i needed, but in the end, i have enough parts to get it to a rolling chassis.
(http://images.fotopic.net/12z59s.jpg)
BTW, thank you BLKPNY for opening on sunday and selling me the final parts i needed.
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I've booked the mustang for it to be changed to RHD. Its going to be done at Mustbstangs, Dandenong. It's going in at the end of the month.
I've also started to get the car to a rolling shell.
(http://images.fotopic.net/13fky9.jpg)
diff's in with RRS Rear brakes which will allow me to fit 14" wheels.
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I supposed it was bound to happen that i would find rust in the car.
(http://images.fotopic.net/13ll43.jpg)
it's only surface rust at least. i'll need to clean it up
(http://images.fotopic.net/13ll4f.jpg)
the other side isn't that bad at least
on the plus side the car is now a rolling shell for when mustbstangs ring to let me know thst they can take it to be changed to RHD
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Not much done due to work, but i've changed the dash a bit.
(http://images.fotopic.net/1f76i4.jpg)
I've put in a mini tach from Retrogauge.
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No poit changing the dash yet cause you have to cut up the plastics for the RHD swap.
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i've got a rrs dash pieces on order atm. gives me something to do while i wait for all the parts that i've ordered
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:yellowpepper:YAY! finally got my rack last week. Put it in a hour ago.
Very happy with it
(http://images.fotopic.net/1fxms8.jpg)