Mustang Owners Club Australia Forum
Technical & General Discussion Area => Tech Torque 1974 to 1978 => Topic started by: Shockwaver on January 28, 2009, 08:02:38 pm
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HEYY!
I'm new to Mustangs and looking at getting my first soon. I'll be on my P's very soon (hopefully) because of the P Plate rules i am not aloud to drive anything over 200Kw or 6 cylinders so it looks like the 2.8L v6 is my only option. I havent seen many of these engines around though, are these ok engines? are parts hard to get? I'm looking at a '78 fastback. I understand these wern't the best Mustangs produced but earlier models are out of my price range. If anyone would please give me some advice on anything about these cars/things to look out for would be much appriciated.
Thanks!
Geordie
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the big restriction for me at the moment is being on my P's, where i can only drive a v6 engine and there seems to be very few of these around. The earlier model Mustangs ive looked at all have v8's. I'm looking at a '78 model fastback ghia, with a v6 in brisbane at the moment, appriciate the advice! I gather from your reply that the parts for the v6 may be hard to find let alone expensive.
I spose the next question is, would it be worth me getting the 78 to drive for the 3 yrs im restricted and from there look at upgrading into a v8?
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What are they asking for the 78?
IS it registered and on the road?
What work does it need ?
Overall condition?
Could you get a loan to get a bit more $$.
I figure if you buy a 78 and it needs alot of work you may as well invest the $ in a classic.
Im not sure you would get your $$ back when you sell.
Plenty of 6 cylinder classics around.Although LHD might present a few problems.
No V8s on Ps now?
I had my first one on my red Ps in NSW and had a meeting with the boys in blue on a weekly basis. Shame i was a good boy and even got to know some of the officers by their first names.
My mum borrowed my car one day and got pulled up by the police wanting to know who she was and why she was driving my car.
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G'day Shockwaver,
What does the law actually state about the cars you can drive ???
There are plenty of V8's that are way under 200Kw's out there.
Is it a power to weight ratio law or just a straight out law stating that you can't drive a V8 powered car ???
J1
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Well I've had a look at the RTA website, you poor buggers
Vehicle and passenger conditions for P1 and P2 licence holders
The NSW Government has introduced prohibited vehicle and passenger conditions for provisional licences to keep novice drivers safe on our roads. The prohibited vehicle and passenger conditions are described below.
Prohibited vehicles
The prohibited vehicle condition restricts provisional (P1 and P2) drivers from driving certain high performance vehicles. The condition applies to provisional licences issued on or after 11 July 2005. The scheme aims to prohibit young driver access to vehicles that are overrepresented in young driver crashes.
Prohibited vehicles are those with:
Eight or more cylinders (except diesel).
A turbocharged engine (except diesel).
A supercharged engine (except diesel).
Engine performance modifications.
Certain high performance six cylinder engine vehicles or other vehicles as described in the publication Novice Drivers - High Performance Vehicle Restrictions.
Published August 2008
Make Model Release Year Prohibited Vehicle Reason
P1/P2 - Prohibited Eight Cylinder, Turbo and Supercharged High-Performance Vehicles
FORD MUSTANG 2D FASTBACK 8 4735 cc CARB 3A 1965 8 Cylinders
FORD MUSTANG 2D FASTBACK 8 4949 cc CARB 3A 1968 8 Cylinders
FORD MUSTANG 2D FASTBACK 8 5750 cc CARB 3A 1972 8 Cylinders
FORD MUSTANG 2D HARDTOP 8 4735 cc CARB 3A 1965 8 Cylinders
FORD MUSTANG 2D HARDTOP 8 4949 cc CARB 3A 1968 8 Cylinders
FORD MUSTANG 2D HARDTOP 8 5750 cc CARB 3A 1971 8 Cylinders
FORD MUSTANG COBRA 2D CONVERTIBLE V8 4601 cc Multi 5M 2001 V8
FORD MUSTANG COBRA 2D COUPE V8 4601 cc Multi 5M 2001 V8
FORD MUSTANG GT 2D CONVERTIBLE 8 4735 cc CARB 3A 1965 8 Cylinders
FORD MUSTANG MACH 1 2D FASTBACK 8 5750 cc CARB 4M 1969 8 Cylinders
Once again... you poor buggers.
It should only be done on a power to weight ratio in my opinion
J1
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Hi all,
Yey stuie, no v8 for me for 3 years!
I'm in Qld but the NSW info that J1 put up is the same for us here. Ino it sucks
The 78 fastback ($8000 - 9000 ) i'm looking at was last registered in 2005 and has been converted to RHD.
The body looks straight and there is no obvious rust (doors, sills etc).
There is rust in the door pillars though. Am i right in thinking this is serious as it is structural? Can pillars be replaced?
It needs a paint job but the interior is OK
Most things work - lights, gauges etc . Engine isnt blowing smoke but could use a good tune up (I'll have a mechanic have a good look at it if i go any further with it).
Manual gear box and seems ok. air con not working.
I was hoping to get a car that i could drive daily and do up over the next 3 years until i can get a true classic. On the taking a loan - not really, still at school and no way i could pay it. i guess im looking at about $5000 ball park figure to get it mechanically sound, fix aircon and paint, i plan on cutting the cost of it all by doing what i can myself, expecially with the paintjob. But it would be much less than that to roadworthy condition if it is not already able to get roadworth/pink slip (I think thats what it is in nsw)
If I can get a safety cert and get this registered fairly easily, will the restoration be worthwile???
many thanks for your advice
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Three years goes really quickly. Save your money while you are waiting to get past the "P''s and you will be able to spend more on your dream when the time comes.
Good Luck.
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In my opinion all "P" plate drivers should only be allowed to drive Non Turbo Diesels! Full Stop!
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good to see another p plater with some great taste!
mines only a 6 mate and she still goes, stays next to commadores and most of the rice burners around!!
wat's the max you have to spend?? mine didnt cost me anywhere near as much as i had predicted but you have to do some solid research and be patient.
haha non turbo diesels??? come on mate, the majority of drivers in OZ are p plate drivers (about a 60/40 split) but the majority of crashes and fatalities come from fully licensed drivers...
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Im not real sure if i want to spend so much on a true classic, my train of thought was that i could get this, spend a few K on it, overall it is going to cost me about 10K to get it to where i want, it will be an everyday car not a weekend driver so im not going for a real expensive car. Figured ill probs get about 10k back in 3 yrs.
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Its a 4 speed manual, ill get some pics of it, but ive talked to a mechanic who knows the car and says that its good mecanicaly just needs some work. He said parts arnt too hard to get in oz.
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Or - buy the early V8 Mustang of your dreams and put in a cheap 6 cylinder for a while why you tart up the rest of the car and build that awesome stroker V* to scare yourself with once you're off your 'P's ?
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mate how did it turn out?? did you end up buying it or what happened???
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Yer i did get it, Sorry about the late reply ive been absolutley flat out with work, school and the car. I spent about 6 months on a huge learning curve working on the car and playing with bits and peices. I recently got it registered but ofcourse as if trying to get it registered wasnt enough trouble (No chassis number present and the number on the old rego cert. was a shortened version of that on the car >.< so that was a trip number punch lane and a nervous time trying to get it through Dept. of transport)
So it got registered a few weeks back, i drove it for about 30 mins and just as i got it home it stopped. After having a mate look at it, everything was runnign fine, except the carby. That got reconditioned not too long ago and im starting to find out just how expensive this hobby actually is as there were several parts that for some reason seemed to be mangled in the carby. (Saw it with my own eyes and can not belive how bugged some of the parts were). So after forking out a couple of hundred for that, it was back to the car to put the carby on.
The carby got back on fine, started 2nd try...on 4 out of 6 cylinders. So besides running like crap, i took it for a small drive and as it warmed up it got alot better running on all 6 most of the time and on the odd occasion dropping to 5. So convinced the car was good to do i booked it in for a tune up and overall service to get everything good.
BUT WAIT! haha just as i got the car back in the garage from taking it for a drive with the new carby. It stoped. Again. So, got a mechanic out to have a look. So now the Dizzy is gone. Contacted the mechanic, he said thats fine bring it in we'll just need it for a bit longer.
Got a tow truck there, he had a quick look a couple of days later and called and said that it might be my control unit (Dont remember what it is called, silver box on the fire wall with lots of wires haha). Nearly 2 weeks on he has not had a chance to do much due to a backlog of stuff in his workshop.
So to date, in 7 odd months ive driven it 3 times, overall less than 2 hours. I at the moment have no car and looks to be that way for some time (Parents car FTW). I am running out of money fast and have not done the paint on it yet. GO ME HAHA!
Few side notes - Lubemobile came to look car the carbie and quoted me $1120 for RECONDITION ONLY. So no guess as to what i said to that. Bloke down the road said hed do recondition for 300 odd which was good -> but extra parts cost me a bit more.
During the 6 months of trying to get this thing running, i dont tink there was a day when i didnt want to hit the thing with a sledge hammer i just hope when it gets back from the mechanic it will start, run fine, have more than about 2HP and be somewhat more relyable. I know the small problems wont end but i hope i can stop forking out hundreds each week to pay for it.
I dont think i can afford paint for a while but ill be proud just to drive around in someithng ive put so much time and effort into.
**Takes a deep breath**
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Oh btw it is a 1978 Ghai 2+2 targa top with a 2.8L V6. Not a true classic but i love the style.
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Only got one photo this link should work
http://i981.photobucket.com/albums/ae292/Geordie91/0901310171.jpg
I'm havin a bunch of errors commin up with this forum, when i refresh the page it loads :s any1 else gettin this?
What do you think abou the car, keeping in mind i know it is not the true classic already haha
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Thanks i didnt know how to do that :D
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Hopefully within 2 weeks ill have it (Y) and then i can enjoy it but yer.
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Your tellin me its a long time! haha when i say 2 weeks thats at the absolute maximum i hope, hes getting on to it this week some time so it could be late this week but most probably the next week. I cannot wait!
Ive never driven it for more than about 20-30 mins! and even then its been running like crap.
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Im in Brisbane mate. What i would like is anyones advice on paint, About 5-10% of my paint has cracked, its cracked in sections not like all over. Could i just sand back, prep and respray those bits for am i up for a whole re spray?
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Car looks nice Sockwaver, dont see many Mustang II fastbacks around.
cheers
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Thanks for your help Mo and thanks for the compliment Nassi.
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Cheer up Shockwaver.
Soon these problems will be a distant memory.
As for the $$$$$ yep they can be expensive.
Even tho yours may only be running on 3,4,5 or all 6 pots........its more than mine.
I've had mine now 10+ years and time and money have never been concurrent. Bought it as a project and its still a project......just now in more pieces.......
Looks sweet by the way......not to many of the II's around.
Shawn
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Yer when i got it i didnt want a rice burner of anything so mainstream haha. I definately got something different, there isnt any around for parts! I think everything has been imported from America. I went to a Mustang classics shop or something like that and they were like ohh, a '78? yer we got nothing. haha.
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I think buy a V8 Mustang of your choice and build it right, that alone should burn up 3 yrs if not more and by then you will have a full license and a Red hot cruiser champ
:thumb:
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The original post was put up in 2009. It has been nearly 5 years.
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Yep, he'd be married with grand kids now... :lmao:
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Hi all,
Yey stuie, no v8 for me for 3 years!
I'm in Qld but the NSW info that J1 put up is the same for us here. Ino it sucks
The 78 fastback ($8000 - 9000 ) i'm looking at was last registered in 2005 and has been converted to RHD.
The body looks straight and there is no obvious rust (doors, sills etc).
There is rust in the door pillars though. Am i right in thinking this is serious as it is structural? Can pillars be replaced?
It needs a paint job but the interior is OK
Most things work - lights, gauges etc . Engine isnt blowing smoke but could use a good tune up (I'll have a mechanic have a good look at it if i go any further with it).
Manual gear box and seems ok. air con not working.
I was hoping to get a car that i could drive daily and do up over the next 3 years until i can get a true classic. On the taking a loan - not really, still at school and no way i could pay it. i guess im looking at about $5000 ball park figure to get it mechanically sound, fix aircon and paint, i plan on cutting the cost of it all by doing what i can myself, expecially with the paintjob. But it would be much less than that to roadworthy condition if it is not already able to get roadworth/pink slip (I think thats what it is in nsw)
If I can get a safety cert and get this registered fairly easily, will the restoration be worthwile???
many thanks for your advice
If you are in QLD you can have a V8 or anything for that matter even a Skyline turbo. There is an exemption form you fill out and have approved on a car by car basis, it then based on power to weight ratio. The skidder boys use this loop hole all the time, they even have friendly dyno guy to make sure their car meets the spec.
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It's nearly the same here in Vic for the rules and the exemptions. Your Queensland exemptions are:
as from 1 January 2014, a new definition for a high-powered vehicle has been introduced for cars manufactured on or after 1 January 2010. A car manufactured on or after this date is a high-powered vehicle if it has:
•a power-to-weight ratio of more than 130kW/tonne
•an engine modification that must be approved under section 13 of the Transport Operations (Road Use Management—Vehicle Standards and Safety) Regulation 2010 (PDF, 831KB).
The power-to-weight ratio is calculated by dividing the car’s maximum engine power in kilowatts (kW) by the tare mass and multiplying the result by 1000.
For example, the power-to-weight ratio of a car that has a maximum engine power of 195kW and a tare mass of 1667kg would be calculated as:
• (195 ÷ 1667) x 1000 = 117kW/tonne.
The existing definition will continue to apply to cars manufactured before 1 January 2010. Under this definition a car is a high-powered vehicle if it has:
•an engine with 8 or more cylinders
•a turbocharged or supercharged engine that is not diesel powered
•an engine with a power output of more than 210kW
•a rotary engine with an engine capacity of more than 1146cc
•an engine modification that must be approved under section 13 of the Transport Operations (Road Use Management—Vehicle Standards and Safety) Regulation 2010 (PDF, 831KB).
The following vehicles are exempt and can be driven on a P1 or P2 licence:
• Suzuki Cappuccino 2D Cabriolet Turbo 3 657–698cc (1992–1997)
• Daihatsu Copen L880 2D Convertible Turbo 4 659cc (2003 or later)
•Smart Fortwo Coupe 2D Turbo 3 698cc (2000 or later)
• Smart Fortwo Cabriolet Turbo 3 2D 698cc (2000 or later)
• Smart Roadster Turbo 3 2D 698cc (2000 or later)
•Toyota Landcruiser.
Check if your vehicle has been approved for driving by P1 or P2 licence holders.
Apply for high-powered vehicle exemption
You can apply for an exemption, and if granted, you will be given a certificate which you must always carry while driving the high-powered vehicle.
To apply:
• complete and submit an high-powered vehicle exemption application form (F4467) (PDF)
• pay the application fee.
You are eligible to apply for an exemption to drive a high-powered vehicle if any of the following situations apply to you.
Personal circumstance grounds
You can prove you need to drive a high-powered vehicle:
•to or from your place of employment
•in the course of your employment
•to or from the education institution you attend
•to get medical treatment for yourself or a family member.
In addition, you must prove that:
•there is no other transport reasonably available to you
and
•refusal to issue you a certificate of exemption will cause severe hardship to you or your family.
Your traffic history will also be taken into consideration.
Vehicle ownership grounds
You can prove the only car reasonably available to you is a high-powered vehicle that:
•if manufactured on or after 1 January 2010—was owned by you on 1 January 2014 and you still own it
•if manufactured before 1 January 2010—was owned by you on 30 June 2007 and you still own it
•is owned or leased by an immediate family member
•is in the possession of an immediate family member under an employment or salary package.
In addition, you must prove that:
•there is no other transport reasonably available to you
and
•refusal to issue you a certificate of exemption will cause severe hardship to you or your family.
Your traffic history will also be taken into consideration.
Good luck with it..