Mustang Owners Club Australia Forum
Technical & General Discussion Area => Restomods => Topic started by: Husky350 on January 28, 2016, 03:10:48 pm
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Hey fellas,
Thought I may aswell put a some sort of build thread on my 65 Coupe. I purchased the car locally towards the end of 2013, and it was my first vintage car. The body was in good nick, which was my main concern when looking for an older car. The previous owner had said it had a going over and had some minor rust removed before it was painted black pre-2013. With the body work passing my amateur inspection, and the car running pretty good, it was in my garage not long after.
For the next year I pretty much enjoyed it how it was, however I always found I was fixing minor things here and there, trying to work out what the previous owners had replaced/not replaced etc. As with most of my cars previously, I found I couldn't enjoy it thoroughly without knowing every bit about the car. So late 2014 I decided to do a full mechanical rebuild of the vehicle, and to go on more of a restomod route.
I began writing up a list of what I needed and the direction I was going to take.
The main things I wanted on the build were:
-most/if not all of the parts being had to be easily replaceable. I didn't want custom this and custom that, and then when something wears out or breaks, not being able to get online and have a replacement part the next few days.
-safety. I wanted to upgrade key saftey aspects of the car. Yes, it's still an old car, you can't polish a turd, however, things like 3 point seatbelts, collapsible column, good brakes, bright brake lights etc, can still help the car be a little bit safer.
-drivability. I wanted the thing to be easy and fun to drive. I want to be able to drive it in the sun, in the wet, at 110 down the freeway and in suburban traffic. If I wanted to drive it down the hume to melbourne, I can just jump in the thing and head down the next morning without batting an eyelid.
-appearance. I still want it to look like a 65 mustang, inside and out. A few things will change, specifically in the interior, however it still has most of it vintage heritage.
Most of the next posts are going to be about the direction I've taken and the parts I've purchased. As the car is being assembled, which is happening now, I will put up assembly pictures.
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A guy pretty close to my house was selling a freshly rebuilt 0km Tickford 220 motor out of an AU XR8 with an auto btr box for a very good price, so before long that was in my possession. This motor runs the GT40P heads, 1.72 roller rockers and an explorer intake.
Once it got home, I purchased a GMB water pump, Powerbond harmonic balancer, Victor Reinz intake manfold gaskets and Canton Racing tall valve covers.
All the sensors were also replaced with genuine ford/motorcraft items.
An Accufab 75mm throttle body was sourced locally for a great price.
A set of adjustable Ron Morris engine mounts were also sourced.
It has a baffled oil catchcan and new pcv.
The serpentine system is off an EF XR8 and will be used with the EF loom/accessories.
At this stage the plan was to run the BTR auto.
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From there the car was taken down to SMS Performance, who removed the 289 motor and C4, and said yes to doing all the work on it. Once I got back home it was time to go back to my list and start purchasing.
The drivetrain was going to be the btr auto, with a standalone transmission ecu running into the stock 8" diff and 3.55 gears.
However as of just recently I changed my mind and decided to run a T5 manual. So quickly spent a week researching and before long collected all the conversion parts.
-Tremec T5 out of a low km AU XR6. These are the same as the mustang world class T5's however the input shaft is a bit shorter, and on the AU the shifter is about 3 inches further rearwards.
-Mal Wood supplied all the clutch gear, being a modified bearing retainer, modified pedal box with hydraulic clutch, hydraulic throwout bearing, clutch reservoir and lines.
-Dellow supplied the bellhousing, as you need a custom one due to the shorter input shaft of the falcon T5's.
-Modern Driveline T5 crossmember. I also purchased a new floor mount, as we may have to relocated that rearwards a few inches.
-Ford Racing 157tooth 50oz Cast Flywheel
-ARP flywheel bolts
-Ford Racing 10.5 Clutch/Pressure plate kit with bolts/dowel kit
-New ford pilot bearing and rear housing seal
-Lokar clutch and brake pedal pad
-Ford Racing short shifter with spring loaded 2nd-3rd and adjustable stops
-Hurst chrome shifter
-Hurst white 5 speed knob
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Fuel system was next.
I wanted an intank fuel system, as I have had bad experiences with external pump longevity. I initially was going to modify a stock tank to accept a BA fuel pump, however I came across a Tanks Inc setup that was too good to miss.
The fuel system is:
-Tanks Inc 22 gallon fuel tank with baffles
-Tanks Inc fuel pump assembly with Walbro 190l intank fuel pump
-Tanks Inc fuel level sender
-intertia switch
-3/8 steel fuel lines for feed and return
-Reconditioned XR8 24lb fuel injectors
-New XR8 FPR
-Holden VE charcoal canister
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Cooling system - sticking with the locally sourced parts theme, the cooling system consists of:
- Heavy duty copper core ford AU radiator
- AU twin thermo fans
- AU air conditioning condensor/drier
- AU alloy radiator tank
- Billet thermostat housing with 180F thermostat
I will get pics of these when the get installed. The radiator support is going to be widened to fit these parts and make the most use of their surface area. The radiator will utilize factory top and bottom mounts. The fans are being run off a factory relay setup off the ecu, but I will get to that when I get into the electrics.
As the factory Tickford 220 motors came with oil coolers standard, I decided I would follow suit.
-Derale sandwich plate with 180F inbuilt thermostat
-Derale oil cooler 16 row
-braided oil lines
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Engine Ignition/Electrical.
The motor was purchased with all the front running system and electric from an EF Xr8. I decided to stick with the EF system instead of going to the AU coil pack system as I already had everything.
-All new motorcraft internals for the distributor were purchased from the states inc a new motorcraft TFI module
- A TFI relocation kit was also purchased(pictured below). This moves the TFI module from the distributor to a heat sink on the engine bay panel. The TFI modules were known to shit themselves from the heat and vibration, which is why ford relocated them in the 90's right before going to coil packs.
-A bosch ignition coil was purchased to replace the used on I was given.
- A new set of 8.5mm super conductor MSD spark wires were bought, complete with heat proof boots.
The engine loom is being modified by Pete's custom wiring in sydney. He is all over the ford systems and is wiring everything up so it still follows the factory diagrams. The ecu will run the fan via 4 relays as per factory. The ecu will also have an AC input for the old air products system, so when the AC is on the ecu will pump up the idle and turn the fans on. There will also be a facotry OBD1 port. The complete loom will be standalone, apart from a few wires that will connect to the main American Autowire Harness.
The EECV has a J3 chip which has removed the smartlock system, and has a basic tune for exhaust/intake on it, which I will finetune later on.
I also purchased an OBD1 reader of a guy from melbourne that custom makes them. That way I can read engine diagnostics, plus put it in KOEO and KOER and do my timing adjustments.
Will put up pictures of the loom when it gets back in a week.
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Exhaust
The exhaust system consists of:
-Magnaflow stainless 2.5 exhaust with x pipe and magnaflow mufflers
-3" double walled exhaust tips
-JBA 1650s-2 shorty GT40P headers with Remflex gaskets- being ceramic coated
- JBA front tubes with 02 sensor bungs
- The exhaust will have titanium heat wrap where it meets the fuel tank and possibly the transmission.
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Steering
This was a big decision for me. I found it hard to find something that would suit LHD and would be easily sourced locally, apart from keeping the original system of which I wasn't very fond of doing. I was going to use the EPAS retrofit systems that are getting popular over in the states, however the 65 underdash area is very tight, and some mods would have been needed. In the end I ended up going the popular Borgeson route.
I puchased a borgeson integral 14:1 power steering box and a borgeson stainless steel universal joint that would mate that box to the column. I didn't go with the rag joint as there has been some negative press on the borgeson rag joint, so the uni joint will do away with that. The stock EF power steering pump will feed the box via some custom hoses. A Derale 24" oil cooler was sourced to cool with power steering fluid.
An Ididit column with a collapsible inner shaft was sourced that is made to fit the borgeson conversion. This coloumn is specifically made for a 65/66, and comes with a replacement floor mount, as well as a Ford plug and ford indicator setup. It came as paintable steel, and I gave it a going over with killrust black paint. A Lecarra 14" black leather steering wheel was bought to finish off the column.
John from Opentracker supplied the steering components underneath. This consists of a roller idler arm, moog inner and outer tie rods and new sleeves.
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Suspension
John from Opentracker again supplied most of these parts. I wanted a good performing standard style system, so worst case I can always just pop a standard replacement part in.
For the front John supplied:
-Blueprinted upper control arms
-Spherical bearing lower control arms
-Roller spring perches
-Bilstein shocks
-Polyurethane coil spring insulators
-Shelby drop template
Adjustable strut rods were also sourced from PTP Engineering in the states. A pair of KFF59 king springs will be used on the front.
For the rear, John supplied:
-Del-A-Lum leaf spring bushes
-Bilstein shocks
The leafs being used are from a member, and they are custom made 5/6 leaf springs lowered a few inches.
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Braking
I wanted to upgrade the brakes to something a little bit better, but again, sticking with the easily sourced parts made things interesting. Funnily enough I purchased a front kit off here, which is made by UPC in melbourne, that utilizes factory parts from local cars.
MustangSteve in the states supplied the new pedal assembly, which included a revised brake pedal position for the new booster, aswell as roller bearings for the pedal. (the assembly is pictured, however it has been modified by Mal Wood for the clutch). MustangSteve also supplied the booster/master cylinder(pictured below, not mine as I forgot to take pics, however it is the system)
The front brake system is as follows:
-MS brake pedal assembly with roller bearing and revised pedal position
-fox body mustang 9" booster
-92 ranger aluminium master cylinder 1" bore
-wilwood adjustable distribution/proportioning block
-UPC hubs and caliper brackets
-VE PBR twin piston calipers
-Ford BA DBA T2 rotors
-QFM HPX brake pads
-new hydraulic lines
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Really interested in seeing all this come together. Top shelf choice of parts
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Rear Brakes
This was another item that had me stumped for a bit. As with the theme of the build, I didn't want to spend stupid money on a big brake kit I didn't need, and I also wanted easily replaceable parts. On the other hand, as it was restomod build, I did like the idea of rear discs if they matched the build plan. Initially I bought replacement drums brakes with good shoes, and, to be honest, they probably would have been just fine, especially in a light mustang. In the end I found a good disc system for a good price, and thought bugger it, I'm doing it.
MustangSteve came to the rescue again with a set of brackets that will allow stock 05-14 mustang rear calipers/discs on an 8/9 inch rear end. Even with our crappy dollar, replacement discs/pads are cheaper from the states for these parts than the local discs I bought for the front, so that was a big win in my mind. I found a place that sold new dics/calipers from ford that shipped to australia for a great price, so I went that option. This kit will also allow the standard handbrake cables to be attached straight to the calipers, with a shifty little mod I will show once they are installed.
So the rear kit is as follows:
-MustangSteve 05-14 rear bracket with longer wheel studs
-05-14 Mustang Rear Calipers(i think they may be PBR)
-05-14 Mustang Rear Discs 298mm
-Stock Pads/Shims
-Stoptech stainless lines
-NTN and SKF rear bearings/seals
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Really interested in seeing all this come together. Top shelf choice of parts
You and me both mate :cheers:
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I pretty much won't be showing the rest of the photo's until the installation pics, especially interior photos etc, however I'll just give a quick rundown on the other parts of the build.
The car is getting stiffened via Maier Racing subframe connectors, x brace(if it fits) and adding in torque boxes also.
For the interior(ish) area
-I wanted a good wiper system, so New Port Wipers came through and shipped out a new heavy duty 2 speed wiper motor, with a switch that mates to your standard bezel, and allows intermittent, low and high wipers speed. I also bought the washer pump kit as my car didn't have them.
-The car is being rewired with an American Auto Wire update kit.
-It has a NuRelic power window kit, as well as a VDO central locking kit.
-Speedhut supplied 6 custom made gauges which look pretty awesome and fit the mustang interior well.
-Old Air Products Hurricane air conditiong/heating kit that will mate up to the factory ford AC pump/condensor
-Mustangs To Fear one piece ABS headliner
-Ford XR8 ute leather seats
-3 point seatbelts
-plus the rest
The exterior is going to stay the same, bar 17" Coys C67 wheels, HID headlights, and LED lighting front and rear including a very stealthy led 3rd brake light.
Anyway time to get the car together, wait out for more pics.
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You have clearly done your research with some great quality gear going into the build and a well defined end goal and plan how to get there....which is the most important part.
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Nice work, Only one comment, Im not keen on JBA shorty's, I reckon the collectors are too small, but I guess its not a big HP engine, so should be ok in this case. They do give good ground clearance though, but I still like long tube pipes with big collectors, Should be a really nice thing to drive though I reckon.
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Thanks Shaun, and it's not the first I've heard of it. The dilemma I had is that I have gt40p heads, which eliminated most of the off the shelf headers that fit in a 65. Next drama was initially I was going to use a btr, which is similar size to the AOD, so again, a lot of off the shelf headers were a no go. And lastly, I needed clearance with the borgeson box. With all that, the ONLY off the shelf headers that would fit with the gt40p/aod/borgeson combo were the JBA 1650s-2's.
Initially I was going to use HIPO cast manifolds as they fit well with the gt40p's, and although this isn't a high performance build, I thought they may choke the engine a little.
Custom headers were also an option but I've spent a bit more on the build than originally planned so an off the shelf solution was preferred.
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You have clearly done your research with some great quality gear going into the build and a well defined end goal and plan how to get there....which is the most important part.
Thanks mate, I've tried to do quality without going overboard.....mainly as I have a budget of some sorts
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Understand perfectly mate, you have to draw a line somewhere, and with the falcon 220kw engine they will be fine. You've done more work on it than most would dream of, will be a good thing.
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The boys at SMS have have been doing a bit of work on it the last few weeks, including test fitting the engine/T5 with the adjustable mounts. As the AU T5 has a longer extension housing, the floor mount had to be moved a few inches rearwards. This is actually good as it will bring the shifter a few inches closer to the driver, which is what I wanted. Instead of moving the original floor mount back, the boys cut the original down, leaving the sides in for extra bracing. A new floor mount was then welded into the new position. The original shifter holes was welded up and a new one will be made when the tranny is mounted.
The Maier Racing subframe connectors and x brace were fitted. I like how the Maier subframe connect right up to the rear of the subframes, and have two mounting points up forward.
US Car Tool torque boxes were welded in up front. Nice looking bit of kit. There was a tiny coin size bit of rust that was cut out and repaired. Next they will seal up the welds and spray the underside black.
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Just read through this, very impressive! The list of gear you're putting in is mouth watering.
Just a tip about those headers, which I have on mine. Put the left hand set on the engine before you put it in the car. You will NOT get the bolts around cylinder 7 done up once the engine's in the car. The instructions laughably talk about getting a torque wrench in there but there's no way that can be done.
I'm interested to see the Borgeson box in the car with these headers as that's on my list for the future.
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Love your work.... :thumb:
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Why did you just not use normal Convertible torque boxes?
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Good question. I was looking at getting convertible ones, came across these. Did a bit of research into them, they are thicker and easier to install than the convertible ones, and about half the price. That's pretty much it.
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Update on this, the cowl vents were found to be rusted out. On side had a dodgy repair job on it, the other side was rusted quite bad. The boys at SMS did a great job cutting out the rust affected parts and replacing them with sheetmetal. As I'm running an aftermarket a/c kit which uses plugs to eliminate the vents, I got the boys to just delete the vents. They also added larger drain holes to hopefully get that water more efficiently in the future.
The engine/tranny are mock fitted, with a new hole made for the shifter as it was moved rearward a few inches. A new driveshaft has been made up, and the next step is it to go off to the exhaust shop to see if they can make the 2.5" magnaflow exhaust fit under the x brace :sick:. Which brings me to my next issue.
The JBA headers didn't fit with the combination of the heads, dellow bellhousing, borgeson power steering pump and the fact the engine has been moved around a bit. So, I went back to my original idea of using HiPo manifolds. Got a set for pretty cheap, mocked them up last week, and voila, fit like a glove. Just clears the RM engine mounts and bellhousing. Plus about 1 inch clearance to the steering box. Yes, they won't be as high performing as long tubes or custom headers, but they will do for now. I have other things that need money spent on right now.
Will get some pics of the progress in the coming week.
Ps. The motor will be cleaned up before it goes in for the final time. Looking at chrome powder coating the upper/lower intake manifold, serpentine brackets, and also have polished Canton valve covers, plus a pretty RRS brace and other chrome pieces ;)
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So where is this exhaust going to go :grin:
T5 mounted with new tailshaft
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Gave the floors a quick going over with rust guard epoxy before the sound deadening will be going on. Also a quick pic of the trunk seperator to give me a bit of seperation from the 80liters of fuel sitting back there :lol:
Next step is the suspension and brake install
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Got the diff back today. Rebuilt with an Eaton Truetrac, Strange 3.55 gears and a Timken bearing kit. I actually thought I had 3.55 gears already, which I didn't, so it cost $400 more than planned. At least I know it's all new now. This is all housed in a 67+ housing which apparently is a bit stronger. I did fight with myself over whether to spend the extra grand or so and convert to a 9", but I just couldn't justify it, as I doubt this car will see much over 350hp, and I'm a pretty easy driver on the driveline.
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The radiator, dual AU fans, condensor, power steering cooler and engine cooler have been test fitted and fit like a glove.
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Cleaned up the old cruddy diff housing. Scraped off all the old buildup on the outside, then went over it with a wire wheel to get the remaining crud and rust off, then gave it a spray with killrust epoxy enamel. Turned out alright for something that took me a couple hours
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Husky, I have just bought a 3.25 TrueTrac, will probably install next couple of weeks or so. Just curious, did your 65 have 3.25 gears? I really don't want to change my gears if they are in good condition.
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i had 3.0 gears, but changed to the 3.55's as I wanted the higher ratio. So you bought 3.25's with your truetrac?
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I haven't bought the gears yet, just the TrueTrac and install kit. As I understand, the gear ratio has to be the same as the TrueTrac. Correct?
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Nah mate the truetrac has to be correct for the centre obviously, but the gears that normally fit that centre will fit the truetrac. Eaton does say a minimum of 3.25 gears though for their truetrac. So any of the ratios over 3.25 that are for an 8" will fit the TT
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Thanks
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Picked up a ported intake manifold upper and lower. The porting still had scratches etc so polished the lower manifold intake runners and then opened up the throttle intake to 75mm as that's what my Accufab TB is. Then cleaned them up and painted them high temp charcoal with a high temp clear
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The boys have been busy and have done a fantastic job so far
Engine back out, engine bay cleaned up.
Front suspension with shelby drop and brakes installed including custom bent brake lines and wilwood distribution valve.
Borgeson steering box and steering components installed. Front wheels were on and I was in a hurry so I'll get better pictures later.
Rear diff housing back in with truetrac diff, new seals/bearings and the boys installed a drain plug also 👍 Rear suspension installed with the del-a-lum bushing(which were a PAIN IN THE ASS to install apparently), and rear disc brake installed(apparently an easy install, would recommend this setup for anyone who wants rear discs).
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Looking good. Really starting to come together.
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Looks excellent, what type of cross brace are you going to use..
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Export brace is an RRS piece that will clear the EFI manifold
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Before the engine gets put back in, I thought it was the best time to upgrade the cam/springs.
Went with the Comp Cams XE264HR-14, which will have .544 lift with the 1.7 rockers. It has a lobe seperation of 114, which will work well with the ecu and should ensure a nice smooth idle, which to me is very important. Alex Parts supplied the .550 lift springs/retainers, and the timing chain is being upgraded to the Rollmaster red series. Once tuned should see around 250hp at the rear tires with power from the get go.
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Got the stock serpentine system finished tonight. Cleaned it all up, sprayed the brackets gunmetal and the alternator/pump aluminium, replaced all the bearings and pulleys, bought a reconditioned power steering pump and replaced the old coil with a new motorcraft one.
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Received the Hurst boot and bezel a few weeks ago now, had a look at the bezel, and I don't know if any of you have seen it or purchased it, but it is the most disgusting piece I've seen, don't know how they actually sell it. It's a crap piece of metal, all scratched, sharp around the edges, so thin it bends. No way it was going on my car.
So I had a look and after some research saw the the Lokar rectangular bezel for their auto shifters was not far off the hurst measurements, and seeing as though I'm using a Lokar bezel for my handbrake, I thought I'd give it a go.
Arrived the other day, very high quality and thick enough that a breeze won't bend it. After a tiny bit of trimming it fit the Hurst boot very well, and is about a thousand times better than the stock hurst "bezel"
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Also a picture of the taller Canton EFI valve covers that clear 1.7 rockers.
Was going to paint them but they look too good so they are staying as is, will add some contrast to the gunmetal grey.
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Got the stand alone engine loom back. Pete from Pete's Custom wiring modified the ecu harness and the engine harness to make it standalone, but also retain the functions of the standard system. Pete used to work at ford with these systems so he was definately the man for the job.
Anything not needed was cut from the loom. The factory diagnostic port was tapped back in so I can check codes/set timing etc.
There is a trigger wire he made that will connect to the Old Air products AC system, so the ecu will know when the AC has been turned on, and will idle up and also switch the fans on. This was not as straight forward as first thought, as the ecu also needs the factory thermistor to work the ac function, so an appropriate resistor was needed to trick the ecu into the thinking the thermistor is in place.
The ecu will also control the fuel pump through the relay.
The factory fan relay setup was replicated, allowing the fans to spin on low and high depending on temp and AC status.
Pete provided output wires from the loom that I can connect to my Speedhut speedo, tacho, oil pressure and water temp gauges.
The left side 02 sensor was wired into the loom, as via the factory system it goes to the ecu via the headlight loom or something random like that.
This will connect to the American Auto Wire loom via a plug with 8 wires, being ignition, crank, reversere light input and ouput, and the 4 gauge output i mentioned before.
The ecu has a J3 chip so all the smart lock has been disabled, enabling the standalone loom.
I also finished off wiring the gauges and attaching them to the supplied American Auto Wire plugs, then wrapped the wires in tesa tape.
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nice work simon. great to see the maier braces worked out for u.
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nice work simon. great to see the maier braces worked out for u.
Thanks Jason, quality pieces. Hopefully the exhaust shop has no problem taking on the challenge of fitting the magnaflow exhaust under the x brace, as I know it can be done.
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Had a few hours to spare finally so went down to the shop and installed some of the in car sound deadening and under car heat shielding before the motor goes back in and the new AC gets installed.
First step is to reduce the amount of heat getting in the cabin. For this I used a product called Zero Clearance. It has an aluminium face(quite thick, did cut myself a couple times, should have worn gloves), a fibreglass/polyester core and a very strong adhesive backing. Once applied, I sealed the edges with heat proof tape. It has minimal moisture absorbtion and the tape I was told is not necessary, but I thought I'd chuck it on anyway as I had some to spare. Did from the bottom of the firewall up through the tunnel, and then two squares at the rear where the mufflers will sit. I will also use some on the side of the fuel tank also where the exhaust pipes come very close.
Although it may not look like it, it is actually quite a neat install, the sealing tape is what makes it look a bit rough.
Next step was the interior. First of all was the vibration deadening material which I got from carbuilders, same stuff as dynamat. Applied it under the dash on the cowl, on the firewall etc. Complete coverage is not needed, as this is only to deaden the vibration and resonance in the panel. I will be doing the rest of the car once the car gets back to mine for the interior install.
Next step is the closed cell foam/mass loaded vinyl/closed cell foam material that will be used to reduce the sound/some heat coming into the cabin. It's quite heavy, and is very similar to sound deadening materials found in some modern cars. As you can see from the pictures I laid two sections up to the lower firewall, using spray on adhesive. I didn't take a final photo but after the two sections were laid I covered the tunnel up to the shifter with sections of ccf/mlv, and then used sealing tape to seal them together, as for this to be most effective you need complete coverage with no gaps.
Once the car gets home the entire floor, rear divider, parcel shelf and boot will be covered in this ccf/mlv product. The the carpet is the final step.
Two things I learned from today.
1. This is way too tedious
2. Good luck to the sorry sod who restores this in how ever many years and has to scrape this crap off (hopefully not me) :smilies:
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Interior. Poor photos, will get better ones next time.
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Do you have the number for the guy that does the stand alone harnes? Going to do a boss260 conversation in one of my cars need someone that can do it.
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Got the hipo manifolds back from being ceramic coated. Should keep the heat down and keep them looking good for a while
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Made a quick trip to the ranch a few weeks ago where Kerry made up some brackets to adapt the falcon seats to the mustang rails. After a few minutes of deliberating he came up with these, which make the seat sit as low as physically possible, move them back an inch or two while being fairly beefy strong brackets. Just need to get the seats out in the sun to get the creases out, not much hope the way sydney is atm.
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I bought the motor as a rebuilt long block a few years ago. Chris took the heads off as they are getting cleaned up, springs installed etc. When he went to take them off he noticed they weren't torqued up. So we decided to strip the motor and make sure everything was done right, which it wasn't. It was bored to .20 over but wasn't honed, there was dirt and crap inside the block, the bottom end components weren't torqued right. Anyway, a lesson for all, strip it down and build it back up.
Anyway Chris has put it back together, just waiting on the heads and then we can finalise the motor and put it back in.
The pistons are Speedpro hypereutectic's, which should be good for the street. Timing chain is the rollmaster red series.
I also purchased some brass petcock fittings from Pirtek which will be the block coolant drain plugs, one on each side I'm helping out my future self when it comes to servicing the cooling system. It's not often I help out my future self that's for sure :smile01:
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Try a heat gun on those seat covers. While the sun will tighten up a bit there's no way the sun will do all of it.
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What cc are the chambers as those are not flat top pistons so you'll struggle to decent compression if the heads are like 62cc or something
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They are the sold as stock replacement pistons for the 94-95 mustangs. Speedpro don't actually list the dish volume for them, but we can work it out if need be. The gt40p heads of the tickford 220 that I have are meant to be milled down to 58cc, so compression shouldn't be a drama.
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Hi shaunp,
The pistons have a 2.5 inch diameter .030 inch deep recess in the middle with the valve reliefs they work out approximatly -12cc dish. The deck height is zero so I have calculated 9.0 comp with 58cc heads which is fine. However if they are still 62cc that would drop comp down to 8.6 which is not ideal for the cam we have selected. Thanks for the heads up, I will cc the heads tomorrow to be sure and take corrective action.
I was only going on information given to me by the owner.
Cheers.... :thumb:
PS. I have just noticed on the photos #1 piston is slightly down the bore...it's not on true top dead center.
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Good give me an excuse to put a supercharger on it :smilies:
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You need an excuse?
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Yeah I'm married :therethere:
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Good news is the heads cc'd at 53 which means they were 58 to start with, obviously been decked so we are up to 9.5 comp. Should work fine. :burnout:
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U guys been putting a lot of work into this car can't wait to see it done
I'm sure those coy wheels will look good on it :event:
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Good news is the heads cc'd at 53 which means they were 58 to start with, obviously been decked so we are up to 9.5 comp. Should work fine. :burnout:
:cheers:
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U guys been putting a lot of work into this car can't wait to see it done
I'm sure those coy wheels will look good on it :event:
Yeah I was wondering if you'd notice your old wheels
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Good news is the heads cc'd at 53 which means they were 58 to start with, obviously been decked so we are up to 9.5 comp. Should work fine. :burnout:
Ok cool, that will be ok with a small cam and iron heads, I normally run them at 10.5:1 but with Alloys and bigger cams though, my own engine is about 10.7. 9.5:1 you could still put a blower on it to wake it up some the cam would be ok.
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Well today was a big day, after 1 year and 8 months the car is back at mine. I have a long list, however I have a few weeks off work so I'm going to try and power through it. Big ticket items are the body and engine wiring and paint/fit the interior, plus a few other things like handbrake install and throttle setup/intake etc.
I will take the wheels off and take photos of the finished suspension and brakes tomorrow.
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This is the power steering setup at the moment(note the hoses are still yet to be secured).
As there is not much space to run the hoses to the borgeson box from the pump without almost touching the exhaust manifold, we have run the hoses underneath the guards, then they pop out right next to the box. It then makes a return trip back through the guard, to the power steering cooler on the front, then back to the pump.
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Test fit the BA seats as I need to position the handbrake in the next few days.
Thanks to Kerry for the brackets, perfect fit.
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One issue I have at the moment is that the AU radiator has no cap provision as it ran an expansion tank. Problem being I have no where to put one that will be higher than the radiator, as it sits too high.
So just test fit an inline cap to see where it sat in the stock hose.
It is just lower than the radiator still, however if I use one of those yellow bleeder kits and bleed it properly I don't think it will be a problem.
Thoughts???
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So as I am utlizing the vent from the fuel pump assembly for the tank, which will go into a separator tank then a filter, I wanted to removed the vented cap on the rear.
I heard 70 gas caps fit the 65, so about a year ago I purchased a pop open 70 gas cap, which will allow me to use a non vented sealed cap.
Doesn't look too bad, what do you think?
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Anyway I'm pretty excited and will probably sleep in the garage tonight :cheers:
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C'mon, the real reason you're excited sleeping in the garage is so you get a full nights sleep. All parents of newborns have thought about it.
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thankfully time has gone quick and she turns 1 in a few days....and sleeps through the night every night :pepper:
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:pepper:
the build is coming along well. I like the idea of the T piece and the cap for the radiator, ill have to do the same I'm guessing. where did you get the T piece from?
The BA seats look good also, how do you go with height, I have mocked AU seats and they are too high, however they do appear to be constructed different, as the runners form part of the frame, unlike yours.
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Hey mate, it's called an inline radiator filler and you can get them from ebay or summit etc.
In saying that I think I came up with a way to keep the standard expansion tank by cutting it in half(I have the alloy version) and mounting it above the alternator. We will see how we go
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I like the idea of the T piece and the cap for the radiator, ill have to do the same I'm guessing. where did you get the T piece from?
http://www.tefba.com/
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^^That's a filter not a filler. The late model radiators don't have fillers/caps on them, so if you get an inline filler you need it to have provision for a radiator pressure cap and vent tube.
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:evilone:
Cool, more ebaying to do. Thanks husky.
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Got the final parts of my handling kit, and hopefully the last parts I order from the states.
-Baer tracker rods
-Camber kit
-fox body fuel rail with -6 fittings(needed this as the intake manifold fouled on the FPR on the aussie fuel rail)
-PTP boss style crossmember with jackpad
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So in my quest to retain the later model expansion tank, I cut the alloy version I had in half, and test mounted it above and to the side of the alternator. Clears the bonnet JUST! So now to get someone to weld it up and weld an L bracket on the bottom. As you can see from the side pic it is just higher than barb fitting on the top right of the radiator.
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Fit the washer bag and washer jets. Thank god for the bag system, as I have not much space left in the engine bay with all the power steering and AC hoses.
Fitted up the washer motor that New Port Engineering sent me with their intermittent wiper motor kit. Just tidy the lines and that's that done.
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Layed down the rest of the sound deadener. A vinyl/closed cell foam composite will be going on top of that later on.
Put 4 squares on the roof, then put the boom mat lite insulation on top of it. Next week I'll install the mustangs to fear one piece headliner.
Sprayed the dash and doors. I wasn't happy with how it turned out. I'm gonna sand it back, then try a vinyl wrap, as that is what I was going to do originally. I'm going to try the 3M brushed black on the door first, see how it turns out, and if i like it do the doors, dash, and rear quarter panels.
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:pepper: :pepper: :pepper: :burnout: looking good.
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Had a busy weekend with the bubs 1st birthday, however had some time this evening and thought I might tackle the one piece headliner. Told the mrs I'd be in the garage for an hour, 3 and half hours later and I'm pretty much done. Pretty hard doing it with one person, however easier than doing the traditional headliner I guess. Locating the holes for the sunvisor brackets and seat belts was quite challenging, however worked out in the end. My thumbs are pretty sure from pressing on the new windlace, took a bit more effort with the abs plastic being a bit thicker than normal headliner material.
I mounted the led dome light directly to the headliner, as trying to find those holes would have done my head in, plus it's quite light. This allowed me to move it forward a bit also.
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Spray the doors/dash with normal base, but put hardener in it, normally the base doesnt get hardener, if you want you can Matte 2k clear it, but no need really and will give a satin black finish thats nice and strong. its also thin so maintains the grain in the door metal.
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Thanks Shaun, however I was gonna try and use cans as I don't have a spray gun. I used rust guard epoxy enamel on my steering column and it turned out great, but the same spray turned out shit on the dash, fish eyes everywhere. I think the prep was not adequate, i only sanded the previous paint back then cleaned it with thinners. I'm gonna strip the dash and doors back to bare metal and try again.
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fish eyes are usually caused by silicone on the panel.
Need to go over it a couple of times with wax & grease remover before painting.
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Got the hand brake sorted today finally. I am using an R33 GTR handbrake and brake cables. I had the cable on the actual hand brake assembly shortened by about 4 inches. The stock gtr hand brake cables were fine for length, I just had the end fitting changed to suit the 05 mustang rear calipers.
On the hand brake itself, I cut down some seat belt mounting plates I had and used them underneath the tunnel, not only to strengthen the area as there is a bit of force with this hand brake, but once riveted in I can remove the handbrake from the inside without having to stuff around getting under the car.
The cables were bolted on to a couple areas on the floor pan, then routed to the outside U bolt, where the end of the housing is secured to the u bolt via a clamp at this stage, however I will get a nut welded to it so I can bolt the housing straight to the nut on the u bolt.
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..
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Also got the front brake lines made in stainless steel by Pirtek. Pressure tested to 3000psi, and not badly priced at $190.
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fish eyes are usually caused by silicone on the panel.
Need to go over it a couple of times with wax & grease remover before painting.
Yeah I've read that since. I'm gonna take it back to metal with paint stripper and start again.
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I normally use white spirits these day rather then wax and grease remover.
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Well what a c of a job...had a tin of diggers paint stripper, so went to work stripping the dash, doors and quarters. The paint stripper demolished the paint I had just applied last week, so after a while i scraped off the black I had applied. The paint stripper had no effect on the original white paint though, so after scraping the black off I put another coat of paint stripper on. It budged the original paint a teeny little bit in places, but not much. I don't know much about paint stripper, but either the diggers one is pretty average, or the original paint was just not wanting to play the game.
So I got a couple wire wheel attachments on the drill, and to my surprise only 5 hours later I've finished up.
Tomorrow I'm going to wipe over the metal with soapy water to neutralize any left over stripper, and also wipe down the interior to get rid of any left over dust that the dyson didn't pick up.
After that I'll clean the surfaces with wax/oil cleaner or white spirits, then paint.
2 questions for you.
1. I've heard of people sanding the metal after paint stripping. Is this just for paint adhesion?
2. Should I use primer? The rust guard epoxy says no primer needed, and I have painted my steering column and diff with no primer and both turned out fine, so I'm leaning toward no primer.
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Too late now but the go is to put the stripper on then wrap it with Glad wrap to keep the solvent in. Then I use the really course stainless wool pot scrubbers, from Coles.
Your doing a great job on this car I really like it. I personally wouldn't call it a restsomod, but a tastefully modified car, To me a resto-mod means you've hack it up to fit engines and suspension that was never meant to be there, and you loose the soul of the car, you end up with something that looks like a mustang, but is really very little, like a Mustang. Nice work mate. But then what would I know I think they all should a top loader 4 speed and really hot cam in them :thumb:
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You're glad wrap comment actually jogged up a memory I had hid away where I had read of a fellow using plastic sheets on paint stripper, leaving it for day then removing it. It apparently took alot of paint with it. Oh well, done now, and hopefully there won't be a next time.
Appreciate your kind words, hopefully the build has been thought out thoroughly enough to minimize teething issues once we get it on the road.
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Just read through this whole thread this morning. Really like the way you have planned everything out and taken a common sense approach to what should be a really nice car to drive.
Looking forward to seeing more on this as you complete the build and hit the road.
Well done,
Chris
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Fit the vapor separator tank for the efi. The bottom barb will go to the vent on the fuel pump assembly, and as you can see the hose on the top barb goes through the boot floor into a k&n breather.
Reason the tank is in the centre is because there was already some holes in the floor for the brackets and a hole for the breather was already there. I didn't want to drill another 3 holes when I didn't have to. This will all be covered by mdf later on when I make up the false floor and walls anyway
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Fit the hertz 6x9's also. That took half the day. It's always what you think will be the easy jobs that take the longest.
I couldn't fit them from above without cutting the parcel shelf holes larger, so I mounted them from underneath.
Once I located and drilled the 8 mounting holes(not fun from underneath), I placed long bolts in from above, then bolted them to the parcel shelf. That means essentially there are studs set for the speakers, so sliding them on from underneath was easy. I then placed them in some dei speaker baffles, and bolted them on the studs from underneath.
Having the speakers underneath also means you can use what ever grills you want. I may change the hertz ones for some vintage looking ones in the future, however that can wait.
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And finished the day with the easiest job so far, mounting the 3rd brake light.
It's just an led strip with 3m tape, mounted to the underside of the rear window rubber.
My windows are tinted, so you can't see it from a meter away. However if you don't have tinted windows, you can buy tint spray from supercheap and tint the led strip so it's a fair bit less visible.
I'll put up a photo of it lit up later on.
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Just read through this whole thread this morning. Really like the way you have planned everything out and taken a common sense approach to what should be a really nice car to drive.
Looking forward to seeing more on this as you complete the build and hit the road.
Well done,
Chris
:cheers:
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Well I just painted the interior again, it obviously isn't dry however it looks a thousand times better than before.
Washed the car to try and get rid of the dust, then wet down the garage, again to try and remove/settle dust. Then I washed all the to be painted parts with warm water and soap to get rid of any left over traces of paint stripper.
Then masked her up again, wiped over all surfaces with wax and grease remover and got to work spraying.
I'll get pics up later, but taking it back to metal is definately the only way to do right. I now have a grain texture in the doors and rear quarters which I didn't have when I bought the car. :thumb:
I should add i used the gloss black this time, as the satin black I used last time was a bit too matty for my liking. The rustguard gloss black once dried isn't too shiny, and has a nice hard texture to the surface.
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For larger spray jobs, you can also buy plastic sheets to hang from walls of your garage etc to keep the dust to a minimum. Wetting the floor is a must though, as otherwise you'll be kicking up the dust as you walk around dragging the air line along.
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Yeah i bought some plastic drop sheets from bunnings and covered a few things in them too. Luckily i'm only dragging my thongs around with the spray cans.
Here's one of the quarters...good to see the grain is back.
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Its worth the hard graft on the interior trim panels mate, they look so much nicer when you can see the grain.
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For larger spray jobs, you can also buy plastic sheets to hang from walls of your garage etc to keep the dust to a minimum. Wetting the floor is a must though, as otherwise you'll be kicking up the dust as you walk around dragging the air line along.
Nor a big fan of wetting the floor, just worry about the water vapour evaporating onto the car panels. I prefer to lay down clean plastic sheets and the roll the car on top.
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Picked up the ford expansion tank that was cut and shut. Perfect fit, and just higher than the radiator. I'm pretty happy I didn't give up on using the tank and tried to make something work.
Now to just give it a lick of paint and the engine bay is almost done.
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Also test fit the intake. Only problem is with the intake and expansion tank combined, I don't think I can fit the RRS monte carlo bar, which sucks. But I will try and find a way, although I think I maybe pushing it uphill this time.
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:burnout:
Looks factory...
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Nor a big fan of wetting the floor, just worry about the water vapour evaporating onto the car panels. I prefer to lay down clean plastic sheets and the roll the car on top.
Damp floor is ok some booths have a wet floor under a grill, but what is important is to earth the car to the ground.
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Coming along great..
Did i see an Oly platform in a few of your pics ?
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Yes you did, but I just got rid of it so I can fit this car and the wife's car in the garage. Had to negotiate :smash:
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Yes you did, but I just got rid of it so I can fit this car and the wife's car in the garage. Had to negotiate :smash:
I hear ya :therethere: :lol:
I got sick of moving mine around so i just use the rubber mats now which are easy to pull up if needed.
Just had a month off, going to feel the snatch work tomorrow.. :thud: :lmao:
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I really miss throwing heavy things above my head, but don't miss the cardio stuff one bit. Haven't been into a gym since I retired from sport but really should start doing something again now my knees have had a break.
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Engine bay is pretty much done now, apart from wiring the alternator and starter. I managed to keep the cross brace by getting the intake lower with a different hose, and by tilting the brace up slightly to clear the expansions tank.
Also waiting on a braided hose oil pressure sender extension, as there is no space in there for my sender with the serpentine brackets.
The shaker will become cold air induction to the k&n filter, however that can wait as I have other priorities.
Want to get this car fully wired, tested, most of the interior in, and panels back on by next wednesday night, as it goes to the exhaust shop thursday morning.
And just when I didn't need it, I think the quarter window regulator shat itself. It keeps popping off the rollers :ouch:
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I also relocated the TFI module from the dizzy to a heatsink, just near the air filter.
They shit themselves eventually on the dizzy due to heat and vibration. Ford knew about it in the states and there almost a class action, so on the later models they relocated them to a heat sink on the engine bay panels from factory.
Ford australia also knew about the problem but they went to coil packs.
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:evilone:
Nearly ready to get back on the road...
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Spent the day doing the hard part of the wiring.
Routed the harness under the dash as best I could. Mounted the fuse box to the firewall about level with the ashtray, then mounted the relay pack just to the left of that. You can see the lokar throttle pedal just below it if you need to reference where you are looking at.
To the far right of the fuse panel you can see a negative distribution bar. It runs directly to the battery at the rear. All the electronics will be grounded straight to this.
To the bottom right of the fuse box is where the engine harness goes through the firewall. The harness then goes to the right, up and over the ac/heater box, and to the ecu, engine harness relays and fuses. It took a while trying to find a suitable spot to mount the ecu and relays, as I didn't want them in the glovebox, but with the AC there isn't much space left. I also wanted easy access to the ecu for tuning.
I ended up fitting it behind the kick panel, just forward of the speaker. The back of the kickpanel does kick out about 1/2 inch more than normal, however well worth it to hide all the wiring/ecu, and makes them easily accessible. The diagnostic port will go through a small grommet and live in the glovebox. There is a plug that connects the body harness to the ecu with ignition/start/reverse wires/speedo/oil pressure/water temp. There is also a plug that connects to the AC unit post thermostat, so the ecu knows when the AC is on and adjusts the fans/idle.
Also fit the Old Air AC/heater box and the electronic controls. The harness for this thing is massive! I still haven't figured out how to hide the harness neatly, but I'll figure something out.
Finally fit the Newport wiper controls(with stock bezel), headlight switch, ignition and gauges. I also installed the sound system, which incorporates a bluetooth reciever under the dash, which then goes to a gain adjuster, then goes straight to the amp in the boot. Pandora all the way :smile01:
Tomorrow I will finish up under the dash, then wire up the front lights and rear lights. Then HOPEFULLY fingers crossed I can test all the electronics tomorrow night minus the engine harness. Engine harness has already been tested and the car will not be started for a few weeks yet.
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With the kickpanel on....nothing to see here :smile01:
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Neat job.
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Busy busy last few days. Finished the rest of the wiring under the dash, neatened it up(if you can call it that). Ran the rear loom to the tailights and fuel pump. Wired them up a little differently as I'm using the reverse lights as reverse and turn signals. I have a kit from vintage leds that is white led on reverse, and amber led on turn signals...and it's very bright. I also have the vintagle leds led tail lights, and again, they are very bright, which is good.
Ran the front loom through the passenger side fender out the right hand headlight, then under the radiator support to the left. The fan wiring also came with this bunch.
Wired up the alternator, added a resistor to act as the charge lamp.
Wired up the AC compressor, and also wired up the brake lamp to the wilwood proportioning valve pressure switch.
Still need to finish off the terminals at the starter motor, and then that's pretty much the wiring..
I then ran all the AC ducting, what a bug bear. I'm not running the side vents, as they don't sit well with the kickpanels. Fitted up the centre vent, which took longer than it should trying to drills holes without a right angle drill.
Tested everything, only thing that wasn't working was the dome lamp. Had a play with the multimeter, and it appears the dome dimmer module I wired in is not working as it should. So I just cut it away and voila, dome lamp worked as it should.
Ran the diagnostic unit to the ecu, and the only codes that came up were to do with things that have been deleted or modified from the harness. It did bring up a code saying the ecu is no good, however hopefully this is because it has a J3 chip in it.
The newport wiper pump is noisy, I think abnormally noisy, so I'll contact them to see what the go is. Apart from the noise the wipers work fine, and having intermittent as well as the washer on the same switch is good to go
Did have a bit of a heart attack, as I couldn't read any voltage going to the fuel pump on ignition. I don't have fuel in the tank, so I don't want the pump running, so what I was doing was turning the car to ignition, moving to the trunk, looking at the multi and kept seeing 0v. I then realised I was stupid, and as the ecu is running the pump, it only primes it for 1 or so seconds. So by them time I got to the trunk it had already primed it, which is why I was seeing 0v. Got the mrs to turn the key while I was at the trunk, and voila, 12v for a second or so. Then had her turn it to start, and nothing, 0v. Jesus, what is going on! A little more investigation and apparently the ecu will only switch the fuel pump on on ignition once it gets feedback from the TFI. So unless the motor is actually kicking over it won't switch the pump on. THese damn computers!!
Last night I installed the Nu-Relic power window kit. Was a pretty easy install, just time consuming. The left door is having problem with the window not going all the way up. It happened with the old regulator, and i thought the new power one may fix it, but it hasn't. I played with all the stops, but again, no change. There is about1/2 inch between the window and the rubber at the top.
So i think it may have to do with the window tracks or something. A job for later on. The power window kit is great though, very sturdy and powerful.
Anyway, spent today installing the mlv/foam underlay, installing the carpet(which took forever), installing the seats, the steering column, the steering wheel(which will never come off again), the shifter boot/bezel, the handbrake boot/bezel, door sills, rear view mirror, glovebox etc etc. Apart from the back seats, which are staying off incase they need to drill holes for the exhaust mounts, the interior is done.
Tonight I will be installing the moroso battery box, a couple new seals on the trunk and hood, then start assembling the panels. As I didn't pull them off, I don't really know how to put them on, so it will be a fun night with my laptop by my side.
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Shifter and handbrake. The handbrake lokar bezel isn't a perfect fit the skyline handbrake, however it's as good as it's going to get and it will do for now.
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Guards, hood, valance, stone guard, headlight buckets on....off to exhaust tomorrow :thumb:
Last night I fitted the daniel carpenter trunk seal. Very soft, ALOT softer than the ones I have seen and defintaely softer than the one that was on the car. Harry's in sydney stock them if interested.
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:pepper:
Excellent progress,
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Exhaust is done. Started with a 2.5 magnaflow kit I purchased from the states. Due to the gearbox being moved back and the use of the x brace, it all had to be cut and modified anyway, however they made it all fit.
From the hipo manifolds there is a 2" flange, when then flows into a 2.25 down pipe where the o2 sensors are, then out to 2.5 up to the next flange. The x pipe had to be modified front and rear, as did the pipes going out to the mufflers. The rear of the kit past the mufflers was fine. The 2.5" tail pipe is a bees dick from the tank. I have some heat protection on the tank, but it's pretty much touching that. I'm wondering if it's worth getting a hammer on to the tank before I put fuel in it?
Anyway at the end of the day including the cost of the magnaflow system shipped here it was about $1700. Not sure what a full custom system would cost here.
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Custom stainless for my 65 Coupe just cost me $2K.
Cheers
J
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Was that with headers?
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No John had JBA shorties. But it is fully polished as well
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Yeah fair enough. Well I guess I didn't come out of it too bad, however, moral of the story an off the shelf kit is probably not the best option if you have changed things from stock.
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The car has just been dropped off to East Coast suspensions in taren point. A few nice cars there, inc a porche gt3 and a couple mustangs. Dave has a new mustang coming, and was already talking about all the suspension options he's going to fit and test out.
They are going to install the lower camber kit and crossmember, change the springs insulators, set up the baer bump steer rods, then set up the alignment to 0 to .5 neg camber, 2.5-3 castor at a minimum, hopefully around 4, and toe to around 1/8 in.
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Those alignment specs sound ok but don't be afraid of going more aggressive. There would be no downside to going to -1 degree camber, 0 degree toe and 6 degrees caster with your power steering.
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The car is gonna be a street car, so I wouldn't mind a bit of toe in. The castor was more of a minimum. But Dave is definately going to see where he can get it. With shims and the adjustable strut rods should get to something respectable. Again, don't want too much camber as it's a street car on street tires. However with the lower camber kit, it can easily be changed if I decide to up it or take it to the track
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See how you go but as you said you can always turn it up a bit once you've put some miles on it. You won't notice much uneven tire wear until you start going past -2 degrees. The scrubbing effect of the toe in will cause more wear than the camber as your strut rods won't allow the road to drag the wheel back to neutral toe as the stock strut rods do.
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3 deg caster is absolute minimum, if it has PS aim for 5-6. Has it got adjustable caster bars ? so you can wind some in there as well as shimming the top arm.
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Yeah fair enough. Well I guess I didn't come out of it too bad, however, moral of the story an off the shelf kit is probably not the best option if you have changed things from stock.
No not at all, Ive got to get custom headers made for mine they are about $2100 alone.
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3 deg caster is absolute minimum, if it has PS aim for 5-6. Has it got adjustable caster bars ? so you can wind some in there as well as shimming the top arm.
Yeah mate adjustable arms. Yeah dave said he was going to shim the arm aswell as adjust the bar for caster. I've got the borgeson power steering, and lack of return to centre is noted without running a fair bit of castor.
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Lack of updates due to being busy elswhere...anway, got the car back.
So the suspension shop only ended up having one day to work on the car, they changed the coil spring insulators, installed the lower camber kit/new crossmember, installed the baer tracker rods. They then started working get rid of bumpsteer and aligning the car. At the end of the day they ran out of time due to having to push the car around everywhere. Camber was set to -.5, toe in 1/8 and castor to 1. Once I get the car running I'll head back in and they'll refine the alignment and give me another 4+ castor.
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At the beginning of the build the plan was to not do the body as it was in ok shape. Not show worthy, but solid with no rust(apart from the cowl), and the paint was OK due to being painted by the previous owner. However, there were alot of chips and cracks in the paint, I chipped it a fair bit putting the hood on and fitting other things. I also wanted to remove the quarter ornaments also.
So, not really having any funds allocated to bodywork, I paid a friend to fix up the chips/cracks, rub the car back and respray the outside in the same colour. Although the paint looks nice and shiny now, it is still a 10 footer, however one with less chips and cracks in it now.
The rest of the front was then assembled, with the new billet grill I had lying on the shelf.
A while ago I grabbed a set of bumpers that were powdercoated black of a fella not too far from me. They were cheap and I thought hell, why not, I'll see what they look like. They are a pretty rough powdercoat(needs to be stripped and done again), however you get the idea from the photos.
I don't mind them, however each to their own. I still have the chrome set so I may swap them over and have a good hard think.
While I liked the billet grill, I thought it looked a little plain. So I mounted the fog lamps I had on my original grill. I think it breaks up the space nicely. Not sure if I should change the lenses to white though??? what do you think?
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Too bad about the fit of the rear bumper. Fair bit of gap between the body, however I had a play and that's just how it is. A snug fit would be nice, but a fair bit of modifying too.n That picture actually makes it look good, the gap is pretty big and not even on both sides either.
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I'm a fan of the black bumpers, can't make my mind up about the fog lights though.
Can't be far off driving now :burnout:
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I might try the white bulbs. Just need to finish off wiring to the starter, fill her full of fluids and then :burnout: .........and then start the 'bug fixing' stage :nopity:
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Yeah fair enough. Well I guess I didn't come out of it too bad, however, moral of the story an off the shelf kit is probably not the best option if you have changed things from stock.
Yep - SP and I had that discussion, the magnaflow systems are cheap in US dollars but by the time you add the exchange rate, possible stamp duty. shipping and you still need to get the local muffler guy to fit and adjust if needed (he didn't supply - so will probably charge full labour whack) and it's pretty close. As long as you got the result you wanted - all good.
Cheers
J
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Went to bleed the brakes today. Found out that the vacuum bleeder is pretty useless when there are leaks. Ended up getting the mrs in to stomp on the pedal so I could find the leak, and it was the front fitting into the master cylinder plus the rear fitting from the prop valve. Tightended both, the master cylinder kept leaking. Tightened it up to what I think is on the verge of too tight, and still leaking, blowing air out too, so a substantial leak.
So removed the line and master cylinder and off to pirtek tomorrow. Obviously a problem with the fitting/flare, hopefully not the seat in the master cylinder as it's a new piece
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Also changed out the fog lamps to clear bulbs. Looks much better and they're definately staying.
So at the moment I'm waiting on a timing pointer so I can set the timing and attempt to start her up, and once the brakes and clutch are bled hopefully I can take her for a test drive.
I also checked and made sure all the spark plug were tightened up, and for anyone looking at using gt40p heads, I can let you know that with the hipo headers, the spark plugs are EASY to get to. Took about 5 minutes to nip them all up. That's a win in my book, a big pet hate is not being able to readily access spark plugs, which can become a drama with certain headers and gt40p heads.
PS. You may also noticed I gave the garage a massive post car assembly clean. Man it feels good to have a clean garage :cheers:
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Do the gt40p heads fit on the old motors easily, or do lots of other parts needs changing too?
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As far as I'm aware they bolt right on. Difference being spark plug angle which will effect header choice. Also you obviously have to check out the Cc of the heads as gt40p's came in a few different CC's, around 58-62 i believe
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It's alive! http://sendvid.com/eimsl3kq
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Only drama was one of the fuel line clamps wasn't tight enough(you can see the mess under the tank). Apart from that she's idling surprisingly well without me having played with timing or set the idle and tps values. And it's pretty loud 😋
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Sensational! Congrats on reaching this milestone.
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Thanks mate! Yeah, it was very relieving when it fired up.
Tomorrow i'll set the timing correctly, set the idle/tps, do a bit of testing with the water temp/fans etc.
Picked up the new brake line from Pirtek today, so I'll bleed the brakes and clutch and then we are good....sort of, i'll be shit scared of something breaking while i test drive it
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:burnout:
Nice work mate..
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So played with the timing/idle today. Struggling to get the car into timing mode, it doesn't seem to go into it after going into diagnostics mode. Set the timing to 12 at idle(not in timing mode), and it seems to run well so it can stay there for the moment. Idle isn't too bad, am getting a hanging idle after throttle is released, so I need to play with that.
Took it out on the street, brakes worked which is good. Clutch is good but catches quite low, just need to get used to it.
It is ALOT quicker, only gave it a little in second gear and the difference to 2 years ago is profound.
Tomorrow i'll take it out for a better drive.
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Took her out for another spin today. Heard a bit of a funny noise from the suspension.
Had a bit of a looksy. Anyone lost anything :lmao: I'm actually surprised I didn't notice it earlier when I was bleeding the brakes. It must have been on the spring and when I've turned the corner and the spring compresed it popped off. It's still stuck up the top. A job for tomorrow I guess. Might have to call east coast suspension and get a discount on my next visit
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took it out for a short run in this heat. Everything worked fine. The ecu sets the fan speed to either low or high, it never went to high(approx 205dg f), so that's a good sign. The temp gauge was about 200f, and the thermostat it I think is a 195f. Perfect.
Did have a bit of a drama, about a km from home started smelling fuel, got home, car stalled. Opened the hood and one of the injectors wasn't sealed at the top properly. Luckily it was an easy fix, but fuel spraying around is never a good thing.
Anyway, first big problem. I think the 10 km old borgeson box may be leaking at the sector shaft. Pretty dissapointed as they are not cheap.
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not sure but I think they are from a Jackroo.
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Yeah, they are from isuzi I believe so you'd be right. To be honest I told myself if I have any leaks from the PS I'm going electric, so we will see what happens
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Changed the oil and fitted up the oil cooler with the built in thermostat in the sandwich plate.
Took her out for another drive, everything again was really good. Power steering didn't leak this time, I'll keep an eye on this.
The exhaust is too loud though, so I'm going to try another set of mufflers. Most likely the dynomax super turbo mufflers and see how we go. I'm surprise though, most people told me the magnaflow wasn't that loud, and without headers I thought I it would be quiet. Maybe I'm starting to get old :lol:
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Well done mate. Happy days. When do you start your next project Foose :grin: ?
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Nice car Simon. I love black cars, except they are a bitch to keep clean. :thumb:
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Thanks fellas. No shit I already have a parts list for the next build. I've learnt so much on this build, and I'd like to use that in the next one. just need to start saving 💰💰
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The wheels suit the car perfectly. Really nicely balanced build. Well done.
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The painted bumpers suit the rest of the car perfectly.
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:smilies: yeah I was still unsure on the colour coded bumpers, so yesterday I fitted the chrome back on to compare. Took them off right away ha ha, the black suits the car pretty well. Obviously it's a preference thing but I think it something different with being subtle. But hey, at the end of the day they're just bumpers right :smile01: I'm looking forward to getting the ecu tuned on the dyno :burnout:
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It can never be too loud.. :burnout:
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Yeah my mates are actually going to disown me when I tell them I am paying to make it quieter :smash:
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Yeah my mates are actually going to disown me when I tell them I am paying to make it quieter :smash:
:kickass: :lol:
The Mrs wasn't happy when i removed the mufflers and switched to the 3" side exit, It's a tad obnoxious.. :evilone:
But the Kids love it, so i tell her its for the kids. Think of the kids !! :thumb: :smile01:
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Took her out for another spin today. Heard a bit of a funny noise from the suspension.
Had a bit of a looksy. Anyone lost anything :lmao: I'm actually surprised I didn't notice it earlier when I was bleeding the brakes. It must have been on the spring and when I've turned the corner and the spring compresed it popped off. It's still stuck up the top. A job for tomorrow I guess. Might have to call east coast suspension and get a discount on my next visit
I remember when i worked for VW and got my brand spanker Golf R drive car. Driving home i'm thinking this thing rides like shite!
Nupty in the workshop hadn't removed the blocks etc from the suspension that VW put in for shipping and transport. :thud:
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Only takes one numpty :smash:
Anyway just picked up my car from East Coast suspension after taking it back for an alignment and to work out my ride height issue(passenger side is 1 inch higher than drivers). Anyway, they ended up welding a metal spacer in the passenger side to lift it up, as there was no obvious cause to the problem. To be honest it probably sits about an inch too high in the front now for my liking, but I can fix that later on.
They also struggled to get a fair bit of castor, as apparently the wheelbase is different left to right. Anyway, ended managing a couple degrees castor and about -.5 camber with the use of the lower camber kit and some shims.
The thing drives awesome now, responsive and drives very straight. Return to centre is minimal obviously, however I am going to put a few thousand k's on it, then take it back an go from there.
In hindsight I should have put it on a jig to make sure it was straight, as I'm sure after 50 years the unibody has moved a little.
Anyway it was pretty hot driving back home just then, can't wait to get my aircon gassed on monday :pepper: :pepper:
My AC condensor is bigger than my large radiator ha ha, hopefully it will make me feel like I am visiting the North Pole
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:kickass: :lol:
The Mrs wasn't happy when i removed the mufflers and switched to the 3" side exit, It's a tad obnoxious.. :evilone:
But the Kids love it, so i tell her its for the kids. Think of the kids !! :thumb: :smile01:
Mate I'd get kicked out of my townhouse complex if I did that, I can already see them giving me the dirty :hi:
Plan is to try a set of Super Turbo mufflers, and perhaps put some high flow cats in also as my garage internal door backs onto the lounge/kitchen, and it really stinks when I start her up. Plus that shit is toxic, not good for the bub
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Mate I'd get kicked out of my townhouse complex if I did that, I can already see them giving me the dirty :hi:
Plan is to try a set of Super Turbo mufflers, and perhaps put some high flow cats in also as my garage internal door backs onto the lounge/kitchen, and it really stinks when I start her up. Plus that shit is toxic, not good for the bub
Yeah, i don't think a couple of my neighbors are overly impressed either but my next door neighbor is a highway copper and one of the good ones surprisingly enough and he loves it so the rest can jog on... :lol:
Car looks mint btw, great work :thumb:
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Played with the trunk today.
I placed the morose battery box on the rhs initially as I wanted the cables to go straight to the starter without having to zig zag along the vehicle. The main fuse and the audio amp fuse are mounted on the lid for easy access. The electric fuel inertia switch is mounted to the side of the box.
Downside to mounting it on the rhs is that it rendered the spare tire hold down bracket unusable.
Anyway, I was looking through ebay for different brackets I could use, as with the height of the 70 tank, and the false floor I wanted to make, I wanted something that could sit the spare wheel higher. In the end I came across one designed for the drawbar of a trailer. It arrived the other day and went about installing it today. I had to use some shorter bolts, however with the support plate under the trunk floor, it is very sturdy. It's galvanized however i sprayed it with some rust proof black paint anyway.
After a quick trip to bunnings, I made up a pretty basic(ugly) false floor, with runners underneath to lift the floor above the fuel lines etc. Some 3M spray glue and thin black carpet and bob's your uncle. I just need a cover for the spare tire now.
I also replaced the stainless fuel expansion tank with a brand new charcoal canister from a VE commodore. Hopefully will keep the fumes to nill now.
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False floor
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How nice would it be if ford had mounted the spare vertically like some gm cars. 65 impala for example
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Would be handy, but impossible with the trunk design and size. My mate has a 64 Impala, you could fit a full set of 15's in there, trunk is massive! I can fit a gym bag and that's about it now
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Maybe look at a spacesaver rim for in the boot?
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Maybe look at a spacesaver rim for in the boot?
Might do in the future. For now it's fine, I don't really need the space anyway
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Might do in the future. For now it's fine, I don't really need the space anyway
Won't fit a pram in there ;)
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The AC system was just vacuumed and gassed. It's hovering between 6.7-7dg from the vents with the thermostat set on mid.
Perfect!
It took about 1kg of gas, which was surprising. The guy said a stock au falcon takes about 800g.
There were no leaks anywhere which was great. The guy that gassed it said the install was done to a very high quality, included all the custom welded fittings that were needed to hook up the custom lines to the factory AU fittings. All the work(minus the gassing) was done by Blue Ice Auto Air in the south sydney region. https://www.facebook.com/blueiceair1/
The other great thing is the ecu idled the engine up when the AC kicked in with the signal wire I tapped in to the cold side of the thermostat(hoorah!), and it also kicked on the fans to high when the compressor was on.
High fives all round! :cheers:
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Won't fit a pram in there ;)
Luckily she's walking now :thumb:
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Forgot to the put pics up form the other day when I installed the oil cooler lines/sandwich with thermostat.
I might look at getting some 45 or 90 dg fittings for the sandwich plate to lift the lines up a bit. Heaps of clearance as you can see, but more for a stray rock or other road debris
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Very neat
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So took her out on a longer drive towards wollongong today. Everything was going fine until i took an exit off the highway and went to drop down into 4th....negative, wouldn't budge out of 5th. I tried to keep her moving until I found a good place to stop. Clutch was working. Shut the car down, look for leaks around the bellhousing, nothing. Started her up with the clutch in, gave it some revs and tried to pop it out....nothing.
FFS.... called a towtruck, about a 2 hour wait.
So while I was sitting there, I luckily had a screw driver in the glovebox, and undid the screws holding the boot and trim over the shifter.
Hooray!!! One of the adjustable positive stop bolts on the short shifter had come loose, and had somehow screwed itself in up against the shifter, meaning the shifter handle was hitting the bolt when I was trying to shift out of 5th. Took it out and voila....perfect. Drove her home, everything else was fine.
Will have to get some loctite on the bolts. see pic below for example
It was definately a 'F this I'm selling the car' moment ha ha....maybe because it was 30+dg and I was sweating my tits off :burnout:
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I'm thinking about a short throw shifter for my T5. What's your's? Apart from this issue with the stop bolt how do you find it?
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Hey Geoff, I have the Ford Racing short throw shifter. I mainly bought this one as it came with the shift handle I wanted as part of the kit. The throw is shorter than stock however nothing too crazy, just makes it feel a bit tighter I guess. The spring assist for the 2nd to 3rd shift is also nice.
One thing I would do if you haven't already is to replace the plastic shifter cup bushing with a brass one. There is play one the stock setup, however with the brass bushing there is no play whatsoever. This did firm up the feel a tad also.
This is the bushing i used. I'd confirm the outside diameter of the bushing as there is a couple different diameter sizes between the aus and yank T5's.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/CUBE-Speed-short-shifter-bronze-cup-bush-suit-Ford-Falcon-5-speed-T5-XF-to-EL-/321353605107?hash=item4ad22adff3:g:0GIAAOxyVaBSpCRk
This is the shifter i have
http://www.jegs.com/i/Ford-Performance/397/M-7210-M/10002/-1
If I already had the handle I would have bought this. A few guys off the ford forums have them and rate them, plus they are well priced to boot.
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Ford-falcon-T5-T45-Short-Shifter-EL-BA-AU-EF-EA-EB-ED-XR6-XR8-NEW-UPGRADE-/222332616812?hash=item33c40e806c:g:j9oAAOxyhodRzA3H
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Thanks for that Simon.
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Took her for another longer drive today. Everything felt really good, until I was about 1km from home. Got to a set of lights and though hmmm, that idle doesn't sound right. Sounded like it was missing, start smelling a rich fuel smell, and on acceleration is was definatley felt like it was either missing or lacking fuel.
Got it home, stalled out the front of my garage. I also heard what sounded like knocking coming down into my street.
Let it sit for a while, started her back up and it seemed fine, then starting missing a tad, a fair bit of smoke from the exhaust, smelt like raw fuel.
Checked the leads, seems fine.
Checked the spark plugs, and found that No 5 had a crack all the way down the porcelain. Replaced that with a spare I had, and everything started her back up and took her for a spin, everything seemed fine, althought it was only a short drive.
Question to you fellas. Can one missing spark plug cause a car to run that rich that it not only stalls but smokes out the garage? Also, could this cause a knocking sound. Cause there was definately a knocking sound coming up to my house.
Or do you think there could be another issue alongside?
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That sounds like it went into limp home mode for some reason. It could be the plug but may be something else. Can you get the historical error codes from the ECU?
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I do have a diagnostic reader, however I can't do the engine running fault codes ATM, as I think one of the wires is not routed right(will try and sort that out tomorrow). It won't show up historical codes anyhow. I did the engine off code reader and it showed nothing out of the ordinary. Yeah I thought it could have been limp home mode
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With the miss fire the lambda would have seen a rich mixture so maybe it tried to lean it out which could have cause ping knock , maybe it just got really confused, does it have a knock sensor.
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Nah the v8's didn't run knock sensors, only the 6's.
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I had an O2 sensor fail on a 95 Mustang EECIV and it caused a bit of a rough idle not what you are seeing.
To cause limp home mode you have to lose a critical sensor (MAF, TP, Engine speed).
The only time I ever saw limp home mode was when my home made J3 adapter shorted on the case of the ECU. A bit of insulation tape fixed that for me. I think you are running a J3 adapter so make sure it is secure.
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Thanks mate.
I just tested the 02 sensors, and the left one is hovering around the 1.5v and the right one around 1.4v.
They should be in the .1-.9v range....no idea why both are over. They were brand new bosch units
Also, the knocking noise is driveline related, just happened to hear it for the first time when the car was missing. Which is good.
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Replaced the 02 sensors however the voltages are still a bit over the place so will have to look into that further.
I ended up finally getting the ecu to go into diagnostics mode, which allowed me to set the correct timing. It was about 5-6 degrees retarded. The thing idles so much better now and jeez it pulls pretty hard now. Just the combination of the 3.55 and the manual is awesome, 2nd gear pulls out of a corner are great. The diagnostics also ran the engine through all its test and cylinder balance tests and everything is sweet.
It's getting dyno tuned in a few weeks so interested to see what it makes. Juding by the bum in the seats i'd say it's around 230-240hp at the wheels.
Also made the shaker hood 'functional'. There is a ramped up section in the shaker that directs air into the ducting, which then goes to the filter. While I don't think the filter will get much air from here, I can't just have it sitting there doing nothing.
I quickly made a filter shroud out of aluminium embossed heat shield and then covered that in some zero cleanace heat shield I had laying around. It looks amatuer but is actually quite effective. After some hard driving the filter was still cold.
With an 80mm holesaw I made a fresh air vent just to the right of the small stock vents that the filter was getting its air from. The filter will get A LOT of forced air from this hole.
Small jobs but I just drove home from sth australia and I couldn't be bothered doing anything big.
PS. Ignore the shitty little horn that sounds, well, shitty :)
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Are your o2 sensors mounted right up close to the manifold outlet?
Sounds like they may be to far downstream from the manifold.
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They are down stream I guess, definately not right up against the manifold flange. I'm just trying to figure out why they are displaying voltages over 1. When the car is cold started they show around 4.5v then slowly decrease as they heat up but stay in the 1-2v range. I thought a cold 02 would have 0 volts, and thought the only generate voltage up to 1v when hot.
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They should be within a 100mm max from the manifold.
The o2 sensors do nothing until in the engine is in the closed loop mode, that is when the voltages to the ECU are important.
The voltages checked at idle or revving it stationary are irrelevant.
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They should be within a 100mm max from the manifold.
The o2 sensors do nothing until in the engine is in the closed loop mode, that is when the voltages to the ECU are important.
The voltages checked at idle or revving it stationary are irrelevant.
yup I understand the ecu doesn't use them until closed loop however the voltages coming out are erratic in open and closed. I'll need to check the wiring in the engine loom.
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If the voltages are out of the window the ECU will log a fault code.
Have you checked for codes?
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Yeah mate 02 sensor fault codes on both banks come up
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Well it's always the simple things that can cause hard to find errors. Had a look at the engine loom today, pretty hard as it is all wrapped up and installed behind the motor and under the dash. Long story short, I thought I had already connected the o2 ground wire, however the wire I connected wasn't the o2 ground. The actually o2 ground was tucked in the loom still, with no connector on it, which made it pretty hard to track down. A bit of soldering and extending and I grounded it to one of the rear bolts on the manifold, and low and behold, the o2 sensors are putting out correct voltages.
At least I have a brand new set of bosch o2's for later on.
Oh well, I think that's all the electrics and motor sorted out for now :smilies:
Thanks for your help Peter
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Glad you have it sorted.
With an earth connected the heaters in the sensors will work now as well.
It should go in to closed loop much quicker from cold.
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Glad you have it sorted.
With an earth connected the heaters in the sensors will work now as well.
It should go in to closed loop much quicker from cold.
The heater earth is a separate circuit, so it was heating up before. Looking forward to getting it tuned as it's still running rich, however it runs really nice regardless.
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Fair enough I chose 3 wire sensors for mine.
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Same here. I can see why they went to 4 wires though
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Installed a catch can....pretty well built, it is baffled and filtered.
(https://i.imgsafe.org/0875b9e142.jpg)
(https://i.imgsafe.org/0863addf04.jpg)
(https://i.imgsafe.org/0875ceb1fb.jpg)
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New K&N air filter, old one is a cheap crappy one.
This is the comparison with the filter I was running.
Btw I put a my house fan up near the shaker intake, and a surprising amount of air was making it's way down to the filter. There is a raised portion in the shaker baseplate that helps direct air down the tube. Although not pretty, quite effective.
(https://i.imgsafe.org/1aa297f772.jpg)
(https://i.imgsafe.org/1aa2b8f79e.jpg)
(https://i.imgsafe.org/1aa2be0009.jpg)
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Damn it Husky....you need to widen your engine bay to fit more goodies in there. Make sure you leave a spot for the polariser and the thronomister just in case...... :therethere:
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Chris I'm actually trying to work out where the supercharger and intercooler pipes are going to fit! You'll be installing them :lol:
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The radiator, dual AU fans, condensor, power steering cooler and engine cooler have been test fitted and fit like a glove.
Is that an AU radiator in the pic with the AU fans? Looks great, how did you go with hoses, which ones did you use?
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It's an easy fit, but the hoses are on the wrong side for your setup I'm guessing Edz. Plus there's no radiator cap so you need an expansion tank above the hose level.
I'm keeping the stock AU serpentine setup on mine, and the radiator fits nicely between the rails ... hence why I sold the 24" radiator brackets :thumb:
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It's an easy fit, but the hoses are on the wrong side for your setup I'm guessing Edz. Plus there's no radiator cap so you need an expansion tank above the hose level.
I'm keeping the stock AU serpentine setup on mine, and the radiator fits nicely between the rails ... hence why I sold the 24" radiator brackets :thumb:
True, I'll go with the 24, just impressed how the AU looked in there, looks like it belongs! I can get a 24in copper locally for $635 so that's what I'll do, should keep a 408 happy in a 66 ;-} Those AU fans put out a good cfm, just too deep for me.
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Hey Edz,
Yeah like Dwayne said it's an AU setup including the hoses.
The AU dual fans are pretty shallow, I have all the measurements I can give you if you like.
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Got the car back from getting the AC fixed. The AU condenser I had was apparently an 'el cheapo' one, and it was overmachined where the pressure fitting attaches to it, thus leaking at the o ring. Replaced it with a higher quality one, plus old mate welded up a pinhole leak and so far so good. Just in time for the cooler weather. This AC system has ended up costing quite a fair bit :smash:
Today I changed the spark plugs, then installed the tech edge data logger and wideband o2. Took half the day, then when I went to test it my laptop decided to do a 3 hour update. Finally got it all working and made sure everything worked, which it did. Over the next couple of days I will do some data logging and see where she is at.
I still think it's pretty cool that you can view so many parameters in real time on a vintage car, efi for the win!
(https://i.imgsafe.org/29e14d3be2.jpg)
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Have to agree with the cost of getting aircon up and running. Well worth it though.
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Not much to report lately, busy at work. Just trying to tick off the things I'm not happy with or need fixing.
One of those things is the rubber fuel lines I used in the engine bay. Wasn't happy how they were run, so my ordered some russell braided hose and earls fittings and changed it around today. Instead of going through the engine bay, the stock metal fuel lines now connect to a small piece of rubber hose under the guard, which then goes to to two bulkhead fittings, then on to the factory rails. Installed a fuel pressure fitting also with the autometer fp gauge.
I have a new tacho coming, as the one I have is reading about 150rpm too low. I also have a new throttle body coming, as I believe the accufab throttle body may be the cause of some idling issues(nothing major, just can't get it to idle below 850rpm).
I am also replacing the electronic heater valve with a vacuum operated one which will be controlled via an electric switch to a small vacuum solenoid. The one that came with the old air products isn't working, and it's well over 100usd to replace it, so this way I can use a local one for about 20 bucks.
Also going to drop the ride height on the front by an inch.
I have a couple weeks off work so hopefully I can smash this stuff out and finish my list.
(http://i.imgsafe.org/c90267ea85.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/c90277aa0d.jpg)
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I got sidetracked today and fit a high beam and park brake led warning lights. Last week I came across a mob in Sydney that laser etches billet switches for custom applications. They also have an array of warning lights that can be easily added if need be. This is their site https://www.billetautomotivebuttons.com/shop. Wish I had know about them earlier.
I have always been annoyed with the high beam indicator that is in the scott drake 6 gauge bezel. It's just a circle with a blue filter. It's way too big, and with led globes it was WAY too bright(even with halogen globes it's too big)
My skyline handbrake also has a warning switch on it, so I thought I may as well hook it up.
Received the two warning lights today and went to work drilling some holes in the bezel. Breeze of a job, and the final product looks pretty good. The high beam warning is SOOOO much better now, and won't blind me at night.
(http://i.imgsafe.org/ef0f070fc1.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/ef0f110320.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/ef0d68065f.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/ef0d443357.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/ef0d4e9f2f.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/ef0d158578.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/ef0cec966e.jpg)
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I am also using the Scott Drake bezel and using small LED's, what did you use on the back of the bezel to fit the globes too, I just have 3 raised tubes molded into the bezel?
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Yeah, it's a crap design to be honest.
I used the original plastic globe holders, then used a hose clamp to hold the globe holder to the plastic tube. I attached a pic.
I'm sure there is another way to do it but I couldn't figure it out.
Now that I know these warning lights are good to go, I am going to get two indicator ones also and replace the ones in the scott drake bezel with them. At least it will be a proper fit and not something basterdized with a hose clamp. I just used a dremel to cut the high beam plastic tube down. These warning lights are threaded on the back and come with the mounting nuts.
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Thanks for that.Yeah, unfortunately my original holders are long go and just trying to avoid the time it will take to turn some plastic inserts in my lathe, definitely prefer LED's anyway, so when I have some time I will make a set up.
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For $60 you could get the high beam and two indicator led warning lights that I purchased, if you wanted to go that way. Might save you some time on that lathe :smile01:
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yep, definitely an option to look into. :thumb:
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So continuing the theme of using valuable time to install things that aren't on my list, I went to supercheaps 25% off sale yesterday, and came home with a rear view mirror with reverse camera. I have a little one, plus live in a complex with lots of other little ones, and have to reverse into my garage, so as a safety item I think they are fantastic.
It clips onto your standard mirror, however the 65 mirror is too thin for the clips to work without padding up the clips or something similar. I removed the clips and used a strong double sided tape to fix it to the standard mirror, that way the clips aren't visible. Then ran the cables under the headliner, down the A pillar, connected it to power there and also ran a video cable to the rear. The camera is mounted to the underside of the rear bumper, and although visible not too noticeable.
The larger mirror is actually pretty good, although it is now touch and go with the sunvisors. From the front at a quick glance you still see the chrome mirror, once you have a better look you can see the larger mirror fixed on.
All in all an easy install, just time consuming due to running the wires etc.
(http://i.imgsafe.org/30fcfd1f5b.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/30fcf7d566.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/30fcecb0b2.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/30fcbe865c.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/30fcd95d76.jpg)
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So continuing the theme of using valuable time to install things that aren't on my list, I went to supercheaps 25% off sale yesterday, and came home with a rear view mirror with reverse camera. I have a little one, plus live in a complex with lots of other little ones, and have to reverse into my garage, so as a safety item I think they are fantastic.
It clips onto your standard mirror, however the 65 mirror is too thin for the clips to work without padding up the clips or something similar. I removed the clips and used a strong double sided tape to fix it to the standard mirror, that way the clips aren't visible. Then ran the cables under the headliner, down the A pillar, connected it to power there and also ran a video cable to the rear. The camera is mounted to the underside of the rear bumper, and although visible not too noticeable.
All in all an easy install, just time consuming due to running the wires etc.
Simon, did you connect it to the reversing light switch on the trans or a separate manual switch?
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The rear camera is connected to the power cable that goes to your reverse lights. So when you hit reverse, it powers the camera, which then sends a signal via the rca cable to the mirror.
The mirror is connected to ignition power, and once it receives the rca signal it will switch the lcd screen on.
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Cheers fellas.
Ticked off a couple things on my list today.
Had some nuts welded onto the outer u bolts to secure the handbrake cable housings.
(http://i.imgsafe.org/5a86234c7f.jpg)
Fit the fire extinguisher to the front of the passenger seat pan. Easily reachable from the drivers side without undoing the seat belt.
(http://i.imgsafe.org/5a94daa9d0.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/5a9568842a.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/5a94ae5f3a.jpg)
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Took the springs out this morning(surprisingly easy with the lowered springs I have) and adjusted the ride height. I am happy with it now, it is about an 1" lower. The tire is just tucked under the guard, but I have plenty of clearance with the lower camber kit installed. Pictures are crappy but you get the idea.
(https://i.imgur.com/8wYgJHs.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OvcYgKe.jpg)
I was playing with the idea of installing 6.75" kicker low profile subs in the seat pans. My mate who is a sound system guru talked me out of it though. While he said they might sound ok, for the money, time and effort, go for a more conventional approach as it is already proven. So I ended up listening to him and bought a Fusion 10" active subwoofer. Installed it this afternoon, which was easy as I ran all the sub cabling when I originally installed my sound system(as I knew I would want one eventually). It sounds fantastic! With the equalizer at the front I can adjust the bass on the fly, really really happy with the outcome.
(https://i.imgur.com/1FDgG1d.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kGHJvWa.jpg)
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Got the angle grinder out and attacked my front valance. Goal was to let more air in, as the oil cooler and power steering cooler are behind the valance(not to mention 1/3 of the radiator).
Filled up the space with a billet grill which matched the scott drake one I had.
More airflow FTW!
(http://i.imgsafe.org/2f64a51649.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/2f3cf39430.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/2f39f80048.jpg)
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Spent the morning taking part in a motorkhana day in sydney today.
Tried to really give it some and see if there was anything a miss. The car performed brilliantly, no problems whatsoever. There wasn't many people, so I did run after run. No overheating at all. The car would get to around 205 after a run but straight back down to 195ish when idling, and thats with the fans on low. These AU fans are awesome.
The car handled very wheel, so I am very happy with the suspension setup and the bracing. The body felt very tight when thrown around. The trutrac was awesome too, definately recommend.
Only thing that wasn't good for motorkhana was the borgeson ps box. You really need something with 3 or under lock to lock. The borgeson felt slow compared to a rack and pinion in this style of driving. Having said that though, the power steering got a big workout, full lock and high rpms, and there was no leaking or boiling over, so I believe the hoses under the guard and the cooler definitely help.
It's good with a v8 though, you just turn the nose in, put your foot down and the side kicks out. No clutch kicking or handbrake needed :cheers:
More pics to come
(http://i.imgsafe.org/571dcece5a.jpg)
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Great that your getting enjoyment out of the car now, like the additional front grill as well.
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Thanks mate. With the front grille, I will say that while I haven't tested it on the same day same temp, I believe it has dropped the highway temps down up to 10dg f, and maybe 5dg idling.
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Got to get the stang on a dyno earlier this week. Pulse Racing in engadine were kind enough to let me tune the car in the passenger seat while they operated the dyno. Thankfully the tune was pretty good and we were only on the dyno for an hour doing small timing tweaks on the top end and some fueling down low.
Ended up making 256hp at the rears on a very safe tune consistently for a few runs. Not too bad for 302 with a small cam but I think there is more power there. I think the hipo manifolds are restricting it a bit, so some attention there may be in order next.
(http://i.imgsafe.org/6cc2a0ebff.jpg)
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Few more pics I found from the motorkhana
(http://i.imgsafe.org/64f2396f9f.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/64f24755b7.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/64f260f847.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/64f281b36f.jpg)
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(http://i.imgsafe.org/64f29cdf3d.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/64f288d6a1.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/64f28c7fdc.jpg)
(http://i.imgsafe.org/64f6cc53d9.jpg)
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And now that I'm happy with the car, I'm moving on to the next stage of the build....... :grin:
(http://i.imgsafe.org/c34e437c01.jpg)
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Got to get the stang on a dyno earlier this week. Ended up making 256hp at the rears on a very safe tune consistently for a few runs. Not too bad for 302 with a small cam but I think there is more power there. I think the hipo manifolds are restricting it a bit, so some attention there may be in order next.
I would also check the compression . If it is under 160 psi, you would benefit by increasing it...unless you put the blower on. :lmao:
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Update...clicked over 2000km's now and no real dramas. The ac compressor is leaking a bit from just behind the pulley, so it needs to be taken off and the seals replaced. A bit annoying but what do you do.
Apart from that everything is going great, except the power seems to be going down and down :grin: Will get a boost soon.
Also going to to change the steering setup and exhaust manifolds shortly, stay tuned. I am going to dyno it straight after the hipo manifold to shorty header swap and I'm interested in the difference.
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Also going to to change the steering setup
Not happy with the borgeson unit?
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Nah it's good. I just want quicker steering. I want to do more of the autocross stuff, and the borgeson I felt wasn't quick enough for that type of driving.
On the street it has been great, I rate it highly.
What's that saying again? Fix it if it isn't broken? I'm sure I'll end up regretting it. :thumb:
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Opentracker quick pitman & idler arms?
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Not quick enough. I'm looking for 2.5ish lock to lock
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Wow that's quick.
I was just looking at the opentracker quick ones as I need a new idler arm as the old one is cactus.
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I may have a open tracker roller one for sale soon
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Cool, no rush.
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Hi Husky65, I was just wondering who you use to host your photos. Yours are still working.
Thanks Neil.
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Hi Husky65, I was just wondering who you use to host your photos. Yours are still working.
Thanks Neil.
Sorry mate just saw this, I just use random free sites that come up when I google 'free hosting'.
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New addition to the family....now just to find a spot to put it :cheers:
(https://s26.postimg.org/iwecz1bjd/IMG_4575.jpg)
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Wow, very nice, you need to call a plumber. :grin: Do you have all the bits to go with it?
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Yeah purchased 2nd hand with all the mounting kit. There's actually quite a bit sitting on my shelves now, just waiting for some time off work.
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Sorry mate just saw this, I just use random free sites that come up when I google 'free hosting'.
head, this what I use and I'm sure most on here have started using the same site
http://imgur.com/
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Car has been off the road for a bit doing some upgrades and cleaning up the engine bay....latest image here. Will post up more later on.
(https://s13.postimg.org/c96qp7h53/IMG_4979.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
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Definitely needs to lose those hipo manifolds for some headers :grin: :grin:
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ha ha, mate I will see how restrictive they are first. I'm sure I'll add them, and you'll be the first to know :cheers:
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ha ha, mate I will see how restrictive they are first. I'm sure I'll add them, and you'll be the first to know :cheers:
:cool:
Just taking the .....
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I have a spare set of ceramic coated shorties, but I'm assuming they won't fit your P heads
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I have a spare set of ceramic coated shorties, but I'm assuming they won't fit your P heads
Do tell? I have been thinking of getting a set of Hedman elite shorties but they are red hot even with the coating :lmao: :lmao:
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The motor I'm buying has a set of Hedman shorties on it, plus I've got some ceramic shorties.
Don't know which ones I'll end up using.
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Definitely needs to lose those hipo manifolds for some headers :grin: :grin:
His engine bay is already a Tardis with somehow more stuff in there than can actually fit.
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Thanks Dwayne but I'm going to try the hipos first and see the result. I really do like the ease of changing spark plugs with them :lol:
And Geoff, yes your right, once I get everything to fit I'll be a happy man
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All done. Stay tuned for the dyno
tune :cheers:
(https://s18.postimg.org/8itvrjobd/20180111_164458.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/73sb2tn85/)
(https://s18.postimg.org/cf77nj1l5/20180111_164756.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/ottznut39/)
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Certainly looks the business. How much boost are you planning on running?
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Looking a bit awesome.
Well done.
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Thanks fellas. It was a massive pain in the ass to be honest, nothing just fit, everything had to be touched up.
Anyway, was pretty happy when it started up first time and seems to be running fine. Haven't hit boost yet.
It's running a Haltech Elite ecu now with sequential fueling and ls3 coils off a crank trigger.
The pulley on the novi 2000 is the stock one. I think on a stock 302 they are quoted around 10-12psi. So maybe 8-10psi on mine?? I don't know, I guess I'll find out on the dyno. Only going to rev it to 5500, and am being very safe on the timing due to the hyper pistons I have. Plus I decided to keep the gt40p heads, which don't like a lot of timing. I added arp studs though.
I have added water/methanol injection though, so that will bring the intake temps down and will allow a bit more of timing.
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That’s about twice the boost I was expecting. Looks like you’re going to find out how strong a T5 is. :burnout:
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That’s about twice the boost I was expecting. Looks like you’re going to find out how strong a T5 is. :burnout:
The blower is too big. The only way I can get lower boost is to change gears at 3000rpms ha ha.
Don't worry I am tracking that. I already have a parts list for a new transmission.
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Looking awesome there Husky, a nice tight but clean fit !!
:coolpic:
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Thanks mate!
I forgot to update this.
So ended up getting the Haltech fully tuned, everything from idle to switchable maps for meth on/off.
It made 330rwhp at 5500 @10psi. The hipo manifolds were holding it back big time. You could see it just stopped breathing after 5500. I expected them to hold it back, but not as much as they did. Regardless of that, it drives great now. Haven't taken it out much yet due to the sydney heat, but will soon.
My next round of mods are on the way from the states. I'm not going to bother upgrading the headers on the gt40p heads. I have some TW 170 heads that I will put on towards the end of the year, including headers. Stay tuned
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How much extra torque did it make? Will you swap the cam when you do the heads?
I can see this giving 400rwhp a nudge with heads, extractors and cam.
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Made 90ft lb extra torque at the wheels.
Plan at this stage is to keep the cam. It should work well the boost. With extractors only I think we would be pushing towards 380-400rwhp. The hipos are restricting us to 5500rpm before it just dies. With headers I have another 1000rpm to play with. With heads and extractors we would be looking more towards 450-500rwhp. We will see later on.
I have the biggest pulley on the novi still also. Got a few smaller sizes here that are talking to me :grin:
Good news is the T5 survived the dyno runs....we will see how long it lasts :bolt:
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Made 90ft lb extra torque at the wheels.
Plan at this stage is to keep the cam. It should work well the boost. With extractors only I think we would be pushing towards 380-400rwhp. The hipos are restricting us to 5500rpm before it just dies. With headers I have another 1000rpm to play with. With heads and extractors we would be looking more towards 450-500rwhp. We will see later on.
I have the biggest pulley on the novi still also. Got a few smaller sizes here that are talking to me :grin:
Good news is the T5 survived the dyno runs....we will see how long it lasts :bolt:
T5's can handle a lot of abuse, its power shifting that kills them.
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T5's can handle a lot of abuse, its power shifting that kills them.
Yeah I take it really easy on my shifts so I should be fine there
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So, a bit to update.
True to my word I replaced the hipo manifolds. While I was at it I replaced the heads. And while I was at that I replaced the intake.
What I used are Trickflow 170 heads, Comp Ultra rockers, Trickflow Box R intake, Hooker comp headers, and got a bigger Aeromotive fuel pump also.
Last weekend I stripped it down and put it all back together.
Today the car went to liverpool exhaust where they matched the headers up to the magnaflow exhaust.
Once the rain stops I'll take it for a spin and see the gains. Dyno will come soon....500rwhp here we come!
(https://s22.postimg.cc/u72geks9t/20180520_154726.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/t4s9w19gd/)
(https://s22.postimg.cc/ujtukssk1/IMG_20180520_154455_761.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/9zp0mbcst/)
(https://s9.postimg.cc/44yt7dglr/IMG_20180518_143310_748.jpg)
(https://s22.postimg.cc/z5pyt5lsx/IMG_20180526_201126_886.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/4oa41lyfx/)
(https://s15.postimg.cc/5g6282vff/IMG_20180601_172040_553.jpg) (https://postimages.org/)
(https://s22.postimg.cc/rjnpghcb5/IMG_20180604_162729_340.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/a6df1mgzx/)
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Yeehaaa :burnout:
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:omg:
very .. very .. nice
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All black. Very cool. Looks tuff . :thumb:
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Thanks fellas, was a bit if work in short time and my wife is angry...but hey, :cheers:
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Thanks fellas, was a bit if work in short time and my wife is angry...but hey, :cheers:
Sounds like yours and mine would get along swimmingly.. :lmao:
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Just had the car retuned with the new heads/headers. Made 400rwhp at 8psi on very conservative timing.
Have to fix a leaky meth nozzle and add a catch can, and then head back in a couple weeks to add some timing in there.
The car previously made 330rwhp on 11psi with the hipo exhaust manifolds and gt40p heads.
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:omg: ... and then to add more boost :burnout:
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ha ha nah I think I'll keep the boost here for now until I do a dart block down the track.
I actually put the smaller pulley on it briefly, but there was belt issues and it kept throwing the belt off. It made 17psi at 5800 before it threw the belt, so it was probably a smart move to go back, otherwise I doubt my block would last very long.
Once we get the timing sorted it might make closer to 450rwhp, but that's enough for now either way. It's only at 20dg right now.
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The last couple of days I decided to neaten the trunk up and I didn't like a few things I did originally.
Replaced the moroso battery box with a Taylor aluminium one, put the fuses inside the box and added an isolater switch. Added a 12" sub, and tried to play with vinyl. looks better in the photos, but I definitely do not have the patience to play with vinyl. Would carpet everything if I did it again, much easier and you don't see any wrinkles/bubbles.
(https://s8.postimg.cc/g4chmdhz9/IMG_20180915_143236_683.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/iyfmztk5d/)
(https://s8.postimg.cc/vptt6d485/IMG_20180915_143236_681.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/5hiogzk4h/)
(https://s8.postimg.cc/vd2f06e8l/IMG_20180915_143236_682.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ozdbwx9ch/)
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nice work Husky,
it looks very neat and tidy!
Where did you source the battery box from, I'm just looking at options for when I relocate mine.
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nice work Husky,
it looks very neat and tidy!
Where did you source the battery box from, I'm just looking at options for when I relocate mine.
Thanks mate! I sourced it from a mob in australia who sell on ebay. About 180ish I think.
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Got some new shoes for the ol girl :leaving:
(https://i.postimg.cc/K86LQtQp/IMG_20180929_132008_730.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/BjCXnLr2)
(https://i.postimg.cc/6qf2Fxm8/IMG_20180929_204043_611.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/rRzwt3cT)
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That's old news... :grin:
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That's old news... :grin:
Keeping me on my toes....I'm going to have to do something else soon :burnout:
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Big brake upgrade. 14" discs with Brembo 4 pot calipers. Guess I'm stuck with the 18's up front :grin:
(https://i.postimg.cc/V6FwTf3k/20181101-165315.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qhgW6TJP)
(https://i.postimg.cc/W1259V0X/IMG-20181101-180213-509.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/RND1FjsH)
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Keeping me on my toes....I'm going to have to do something else soon :burnout:
It didn't take you long! A month later you're at it again! :omg: :thumb:
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I can't keep up with this shit..... Don't call me again..... :grin: :grin: :grin:
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Ha ha...Chris the dart block is still coming
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brilliant build
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looking good all round :thumb:
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Thanks fellas. Just starting to save up for the Dart block parts and new trans now. Then really turn it up :pepper:
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Thanks fellas. Just starting to save up for the Dart block parts and new trans now. Then really turn it up :pepper:
What trans are you putting in ?
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What trans are you putting in ?
(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/94/Caitlyn_Jenner.jpeg/220px-Caitlyn_Jenner.jpeg)
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(https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/9/94/Caitlyn_Jenner.jpeg/220px-Caitlyn_Jenner.jpeg)
Oooooh my !! What kind of shifter. :leaving:
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What trans are you putting in ?
C4, or T56.....or maybe make it so I can fit either