Mustang Owners Club Australia Forum
Technical & General Discussion Area => Tech Torque 1974 to 1978 => Topic started by: shelby_mustro on December 27, 2012, 09:44:53 pm
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Hi all.
I need help with my 302 Windsor. It's getting plenty of fuel it's got spark. I have tried both of the compression strokes tried two new dizzys and still can't get it to run!! Any ideas? Or is their someone on the Gold Coast willing to come round for beer money to help me out.
Thanks in advance.
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was it running or is it new..?
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I bought the motor second hand but have never seen it run before.
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I will come and have a look 4 you .pm your ph number .GLENN 70
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Sweet ill take any help I can get.
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What part of the coast
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possibly clevo firing order as a lot of windsor's are now days..???
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Hello,
Try taking the plugs out and putting one squirt of oil from an oil can in each cylinder.
I used to collect early Falcons and if they had been sitting for a long time this was the only way they would start.
It defies logic, they had spark,fuel and compression but refused to start.
When the oil was added away they would go.
Peter.
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Thanks guys Glenn 70 sorted it out for me!!
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What was the issue, out of curiosity?
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He had the dissy one tooth out and 180 deg out Simply fix i lifted the dissy out spun it around 180 reset and it fired up as soon as he hit the key . Happy now i hope .
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Good Work Glenn70, Its good to see the Mustang Brotherhood alive and well
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Yep thanks guys. that saved me a lot of time. Just got the rest of the car to get back together now.
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Glenn I may need your help again mate when the radiator comes in. I was mucking about with the timing today because it was reving too hard so I decreased the dizzy a bit. Sounded better but now it won't start again. I turned it back to where it was but still nothing.
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No worries just let me know and i will come over .
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No worries just let me know and i will come over .
Glenn 70.. you are what all club members sould be. Well done mate !
Cheers :cheers:
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Alright moving on now.... Car is running but can't seem to stop the motor from over heating I have blown of the radiatior hose twice now. could it be the radiatior cap they supplied me is the wrong one? I'm running a Thurmo fan on the inside of the engine bay. (Side of the motor) should the fan be running through the radiatior or be pushing air towards the motor? Is their anything else I can do to stop over heating?
I know timing Is still a little bit out but wouldn't be that much to cause it.
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Ryan what am i going to do with you .....Timing wont be the problem at the moment ,I will come back over and we will check a few things ,give me a call .Themostat not opening ,head gasket blown and maybe on wrong ,inlet gaskets blocking water jackets .
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Ryan if you have cap off and let it run does it bubble in the rad when you hold some revs on it? that will be a head gasket. You can get the water tested to see if there is exhuast in it. If you are blowing hoses off I think you have an issue with a head leak. But in real terms it should pop the cap before a hose. Is this engine that has been hot a few times, that had the scratched bores?
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Nar that's not the motor ha I turned that old one into a coffee table haha.... yes it does that I'm sure it's the head gasket. Rev it the coolant goes from green to gray and bubbles out fommy just gets hot all the time. I'll replace the heads on it with reco ones. This is just a get me by motor untill I can fund my 347.
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So it's not getting hot to start with if this is the case, it just blows the water out due to a compression leak then it getts hot.
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Yes but I still will need to replace the head gasket right?
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Yes but I still will need to replace the head gasket right?
With out looking at it, It sounds to me like there is an issue with the heads/gaskets. You could get the water tested to be sure.
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Shaun I have already done the drivers side so I know the rh side would be it
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Hey Ryan did you do the gasket before you put the motor in? you didn't put it on backward did you?
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hi
it was the gasket on the side I didnt change no4 piston area. Ill take both off put a nice set of heads and cam on to get me by. yes well there is only one way u can put that gasket on.
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hi
it was the gasket on the side I didnt change no4 piston area. Ill take both off put a nice set of heads and cam on to get me by. yes well there is only one way u can put that gasket on.
You'd be surprised how many windsor gaskets end up on back to front. All good.
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it's hard to miss the gasket has front on it. with the felpro gaskets does the colour gray and blue part face the top? the underneath is black so I'm guess this sits on the block side. how many ft pounds dose the heads needs to be wrenched up at?
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70 lbs in 3 stages 25,50 then 70 lbs .2 centre bolts 1st working your way out both sides .blue black grey gaskets really ,got me.
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Glenn ill be around tomorrow your more then welcome to pop in if you have time tomorrow.
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ok ,but will see what the weather is like .not good they say .
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Well got the car running yereseterday and another problem
Has come out. My breaking system has locked up. just got harder and harder. had to push the motor which over heated it trying to get home on it. Has a break booster double master cylinder and xy disc on front and xf on the rear.
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Loosen the nuts holding the cyl to the booster & see if the brakes free up. Might not have enough free play between them, faulty master cyl, brake hose collapsing. You need to determine if it is one brake or all the brakes that are holding on !! Have you checked your pedal clearance (shaft to booster) under the dash.
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It will be the brake booster ,there is a plastic piece inside were the arm comes out that fits onto the brake pedal,it brakes ,then your brakes will be so touchy, then they slowly lock on ,aftermarket boosters only .You can back off the master cyl nuts a little to get home ,but you need a new booster .They can split the booster and fix but just buy a new one .
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It's defentaltly the break booster. I loosened up the two bolts to the master cyl and it did free up.
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Glenn is correct it has possibly shattered the reaction disc in the booster.
If the reaction disc has failed the brakes will tend to have no modulation control, they will be very grabby almost all on or off.
You should be able to pull out the circlip and seal and pull the pushrod out of the booster,
the reaction disc sits on the bottom of the pushrod. (between pushrod and booster internals)
Very common fault on Falcons.
Peter.
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Well it's a. 3 week wait to get one from cal customs they are $180 not to bad.
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theres a CIRCLIP there which keeps ur plunger in,,,,i had one break on me
be worthwhile to take out booster,,see wats happening in thar
Not if it's a falcon master and I think it is, the booster holds the piston in.
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No it is an after market one from cal custom .
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Good work glen